1^. 


DUKE 

UNIVERSITY 

LIBRARY 


Treasure  %gom 


1 


I 


NEW-YORK 
1 84^1  . 


THE 

NAVAL  APPRENTICE'S  KEDGE  ANCHOR 


OR 


YOUNG  SAILOR  S  ASSISTANT. 


DEDICATED  TO  JOHN  GALLAGHER,  Esq. 

CAPTAIN    UNITED    STATES    NAVY. 


APFERTAINING    TO    THE    PRACTICAL    EVOLUTIONS    OP    SEAMAN- 
SHIP,   RIGGING,    KNOTTING,    SPLICING    BLOCKS,    PURCHASES, 
RUNNING   RIGGING,    AND    OTHER   MISCELLANEOUS   MAT- 
TERS APPLICABLE  TO  SHIPS  OF  WAR  AND    OTHERS. 

WITH  PLATES. 

APPROVED,    AND   HIGHLY  RECOMMENDED  BY   A   NUMBER   OF   OCR 
MOST    DISTINGUISHED    NAVAL    OFFICERS. 


BY  WILLIAM  BRADY,  BOATSWAIN,  U.  S.  N. 


XEW-YORK  : 
PUBLISHED    AND    SOLD    BY   FRYE   &    SHAW, 

AT  THEIR  NAUTICAL  SfORE,  222  WATER-STREET 

484L 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1841,  by 

WILLIAM    BRADY, 

In  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Southern  District 
of  New-York. 


Vr^  i"<^3 


PREFACE. 


In  offering  the  following  work  to  the  public,  the 
author  deems  no  apology  necessary,  as  it  was  written 
for  the  use  of  the  U.  S.  Naval  Apprentices,  as  a  ready 
meians  of  introducing  them  to  the  theory  of  that  art 
by  which  they  must  expect  to  advance  in  the  profes- 
sion they  have  chosen. 

He  flatters  himself,  however,  that  it  will  be  found 
useful  to  any  who  intend  to  embrace  the  Sailor  life, 
and  particularly  to  those  destined  for  the  Navy. 

Should  it  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  learned,  they 
will  bear  in  mind  that  he  is  better  versed  with  the 
marlingspike  than  the  pen,  and  that  it  was  composed 
in  the  hours  of  relaxation  from  official  duties. 

He  is  not  aware  that  there  is  any  other  work  of  this 
kind,  except  those  which  are  large  and  expensive  ; 
he  therefore  hopes  this  may  be  received  for  that  which 


PREFACE. 


it  is  intended  to  be,  a  Kedge  Anchor  for  the  youthful 
sailor.  The  work  has  been  submitted  to  the  inspec- 
tion of  a  number  of  experienced  naval  officers,  who 
have  given  it  their  decided  approbation,  and  some  of 
whose  names  are  appended  to  the  work. 

With  these  few  relnarks  he  subniits  it  to  a  discern- 
ing public,  to  stand  or  fall  on  its  own  merits. 


INDEX 


1. 

To  knot 

a  Rope  yarn. 

2. 

To  make 

1  a  Fox. 

3. 

u 

It 

a  Spanish  Fox. 

4. 

u 

tt 

a  Knitlle. 

5. 

u 

tt 

an  Overhanded  Knot. 

6. 

(( 

tt 

a  Figure  of  8  Knot. 

7. 

(t 

tt 

two  Half  Hitches. 

8. 

u 

tt 

a  Reef  or  Square  Knot. 

9. 

u 

it 

a  Bowline  Knot. 

10. 

(C 

it 

a  Bowline  on  a  Bight. 

11. 

t( 

It 

a  Running  Bowline. 

12. 

C( 

ti 

a  Timber  Hilch, 

13. 

It 

it 

a  Fisherman's  Bend; 

14. 

tt 

tt 

a  Rolling  Bend. 

15. 

u 

tt 

a  Cavrick  Bend. 

16. 

tt 

tt 

a  Cats  Paw. 

17. 

tt 

c. 

a  Sheet  or  Becket  Bend. 

18. 

It 

ti 

a  Back  Wall. 

19. 

tt 

t( 

a  RolliHiT  Hitch. 
1* 

CONTENTS. 


20. 

To 

make 

■  a  Selvage  Strap. 

21. 

(( 

11 

a  Pudding  for  a  Mast  or  Yard. 

22. 

u 

u 

a  Short  Splice. 

23. 

u 

li 

a  Long  Splice. 

24. 

u 

<( 

an  Eye  Splice. 

25. 

li 

u 

a  Cut  Splice. 

26. 

(( 

(( 

a  Flemish  Eye. 

27. 

li 

(( 

an  Artificial  Eye. 

28. 

To 

worm  and  serve  a  Rope. 

29. 

To 

clap  ( 

on  a  Throat  and  (Quarter  Seizing. 

30. 

To  make 

)  a  Turk's  Head. 

31. 

To 

sheepshank  a  Rope  or  Backstay. 

32. 

To 

put  a 

strand  in  a  Rope. 

33. 

To  Wall  and  Crown. 

34. 

To  make 

!  a  Matthew  Walker. 

35. 

(( 

(C 

a  Spritsail  Sheet  Knot. 

36. 

li 

11 

a  Shroud  Knot. 

37. 

K 

t. 

a  French  Shroud  Knot. 

38. 

({ 

u 

a  Single  Diamond. 

39. 

11 

It 

a  Double  Diamond. 

40. 

H 

.( 

a  Stopper  Knot. 

41. 

(( 

(( 

a  Buoy  Rope  Knot. 

42. 

(( 

it 

Common  Sennit. 

43. 

11 

it 

a  Sea  Gasket. 

44. 

11 

it 

a  Pauch  or  wrought  Mat. 

45. 

it 

ti 

a  Harbour  Gasket,  or  French  Se] 
nit. 

46. 

Pointing 

a  Rope. 

CONTENTS. 


47. 

To  make  a  Groinet. 

48. 

"    pass  a  Rose  Lashing. 

49. 

"    weave  a  Sword  Mat. 

50. 

"    make  a  Lashing  Cleat, 

\ 

BLOCKS. 

51. 

A  Shell,  Pin,  and  Sheave. 

52. 

''  Single  Block. 

53. 

••  Double  Block. 

54. 

"  Treble  Block. 

5o. 

"  Shoulder  Block. 

56. 

"  Fiddle  Block. 

57. 

"  Shoe  Block. 

58. 

"  Sister  Block. 

59. 

"  Monkey  Block. 

60. 

"  Dead  Eye. 

61. 

«  Bull's  Eye. 

62. 

,  "  Heart. 

63. 

"  Belaying  Pin  Rack. 

64. 

"  Euphroe. 

65. 

"  Horn  Cleat. 

66. 

*'  Bee  Cleat. 

67. 

"  Strop  for  a  Block. 

68. 

"  Tail  Block. 

69. 

<'  Purchase  Block. 

70. 

«  Top  Block. 

71. 

«  Cat  Block. 

72. 

"  Snatch  Block. 

8  CONTENTS. 

73.  A  Nun  Buoy. 

74.  To  bend  a  Buoy  Rope. 

7o.       "   Puddinor  the  rino^  of  an  anchor. 

76.  "   make  a  Jacob's  Ladder. 

77.  Can  Hooks. 

78.  Hogshead  Slings. 

79.  Barrel  Slings. 

80.  A  Single  Whip. 

81.  «•'  Gun  Tackle  Purchase. 

82.  "  Luff  Tackle  Purchase. 

83.  ''  Top  Burton. 
64.  Whip  and  Runner. 
85.  A  Runner  Tackle. 

.86.  «•  Two-fold  Purchase. 

87.  "  Three- fold  Purchase. 

88.  Names  of  Rope. 

89.  Rig  Ship.     To  get  Sheers  on  board. 

90.  To  raise  the  Sheers. 

9L       "  take  in  the  Mizen  Mast. 

92.  "      "     in  Main  and  Foremast. 

93.  «      "     in  the  Bowsprit. 

94.  "  rigf  the  Foremast. 

95.  "    "   Main  and  Mizen  Mast. 

96.  "  get  the  Top  over. 

97.  "  swifter  in  the  Lower  Rigging. 

98.  "  set  up  Lower  Rigging. 

99.  "  get  on  board  the  Topmast. 
100.       "  rig  the  Topmast. 


CONTENTS.  y 

101.  To  get  on  board  and  rig  Jib-boom. 

102.  "  swifter  in  Topmast  Rigging. 

103.  "  rig  the  Spritsail  Yard. 

104.  "   get  on  board,  rig,  and  send  aloft  Royal 

and  Top-gallant  Masts. 

105.  "  get  on  board  and  rig  flying  Jib-boom. 

106.  "  get  on  board  and  rig  Topsail  Yards. 

107.  "  cross  Topsail  Yards. 

108.  '•  get  on  board,  and  rig  Lower  Yards. 

109.  "  get  aloft  the  Lower  Yards. 

110.  "  get  on  board  the  Spanker  Boom  and  Gaff. 

111.  "  get  on    board  and  rig  the  Top-gallant 

Yards. 

112.  "  rig  a  lower  Studding-sail  Boom. 

113.  '^  rig  a  Topmast  Studding-sail  Boom. 

114.  "  rig  a  Top-gallant  Studding-sail  Boorti. 

115.  "  rig  the  Boat  and  Fish  Davits. 

116.  "  cut  the  Lower  Rigging. 

117.  The  Topmast  and  Top-gallant  Rigging. 

118.  "    Breast  and  Standing  Back  Stays. 

119..       "    Cat  harpin  legs  and  Futtock  Shrouds. 

120.  To  cut  the  Fore  and  Aft  Stays. 

121.  *'  cut  the  Runner  Pendants. 

122.  Bob  Stays.  -i 

123.  To  cut  Bowsprit  Shrouds.  *-«■ 

124.  The  Jib  and  flying  Jib  Guys. 

125.  "    Running  Rigging. 

126.  "    Main  and  Main-spring  Stays. 


10  CONTENTS. 

127.  The  Mizen  Stay. 

128.  "     Fore-topmast,  and  Spring  Stays. 

129.  "     Jib  Stay. 

130.  "    Main  Topmast  Stay. 

131.  «     Fore  Top-gallant  Stay. 

132.  Flying  Jib  Stay. 

133.  Main  Top-gallant  Stay. 

134.  Mizen  Top-gallant  Stay. 

135.  Fore  Royal  Stay. 

136.  Main  Royal  Stay. 

137.  Bob  Stays. 

138.  Bowsprit  Shrouds. 

139.  Jib  Martingale  Stays. 

140.  Flying  Jib  Martingale  Stays. 

141.  Breast  Back  Stays. 

142.  Standing  Backstays. 

TO  REEVE  RUNNING  RIGGING. 

143.  Lower  Lifts. 

144.  To  reeve  duarter  Lifts. 
^  145.  "  "  Topsail  Lifts. 
*  146.       «      "      Reef  Tackles. 

147.  "      ''      Top-gallant  Lifts. 

148.  '-'      "      Royal  Lifts. 

149.  "      "      Spritsail  Lifts. 

.  150.      ^'      "      Lower  Boom  Topping  Lifts. 
151.       ''      "      Topmast  Studding-sail  Boom  Top- 
ping Lifts. 


^]*^**,  CONTENTS.                                              11 

162.  Spanker  Boom  Topping  Lifts. 

153.  Fore  Braces. 

154.  "    Topsail  Braces. 

155.  "    Top-gallant  Braces. 

156.  "    Royal  Braces. 

157.  Main  Braces. 

158.  "      Topsail  Braces. 

159.  "     Top-gallant  Braces. 

160.  «     Royal  Braces. 

161.  Cross  Jack  Braces. 

162.  Mizen  Topsail  Braces. 

163.  "      Top-gallant  Braces. 

164.  "     Royal  Braces. 

165.  Spritsail  Braces. 

166.  Topmast  Studding-sail  Boom  Braces. 

167.  Fore  Bowline. 

168.  "     Top  Bowline. 

169.  "    Top-gallant  Bowline. 

170.  «     Royal  Bowline. 

171.  Main  Bowline. 

172.  «     Top  Bowline. 

173.  "     Top-gallant  Bowline. 

174.  "     Royal  Bowline. 

175.  Mizen  Top  Bowline. 

176.  "     Top-gallant  Bowlines. 

177.  "      Royal  Bowlines. 

178.  Fore  Topmast  Staysail  Halliards. 

179.  Jib  Halliards. 


12  CONTENTS. 

180.  Flying  Jib  Halliards. 

181.  Fore  Topsail  Halliards. 

182.  Main  Topsail  Halliards. 

183.  Mizen  Topsail  Halliards. 

184.  Fore  Top-gallant  Halliards. 

185.  Main  Top-gallant  Halliards. 

186.  Mizen  Top-gallant  Halliards. 

187.  Fore,  Main,  and  Mizen  Royal  Halliards. 

188.  Main  Topmast  Staysail  Halliards. 

189.  Mizen  Staysail  Halliards. 

190.  Gaff,  Throat  Halliards. 

191.  "     Peak  Halliards. 

192.  Lower  Studding-sail  Halliards. 

193.  Topmast         •«  « 

194.  Fore  Topmast  Staysail  Downhaul. 

195.  Jib  Downhaul. 

196.  Flying  Jib  Downhaul. 

197.  Topsail  Downhaul. 

198.  Main  Topmast  Staysail  Downhaul. 

199.  Mizen  Staysail  Downhaul. 

200.  Topmast  Studding-sail  Downhaul. 

201.  Top-gallant  Studding  sail  Downhaul. 

202.  Royal  Studding-sail  Downhaul. 

203.  Main  Tack. 

204.  Jib  and  Fore  Topmast  Staysail  Tacks. 

205.  Spanker  l\ick. 

206.  Topmast,  Top-gallant,  and  Royal  Studding- 

sail  Tacks. 


CONTENTS. 


13 


207.  Main  Topmast  Staysail  Tack. 

208.  Lower  Studding-sail  Outhauls. 

209.  Spanker  Outhaul. 

210.  Fore  and  Main  Sheets. 

211.  Topsail  Sheets. 

212.  Top-gallant  and  Royal  Sheets. 

213.  Fore  Topmast  Staysail  and  Jib  Sheets. 

214.  Flying  Jib  Sheets. 

215.  Mizen  Staysail  Sheet. 

216.  Spanker  Sheet. 

217.  Lower  Studding-sail  Sheets. 

218.  Topmast  Studding-sail  Sheets. 

219.  Top-gallant  and  Royal  Studding-sail  Sheets. 

220.  Clue  Garnets. 

221.  Topsail  and  Top-gallant  Clew  Lines. 

222.  Royal  Clew  Lines. 

223.  Lower  Studding-sail  Clew  Lines. 

224.  Fore  and  Main  Bunt  Lines. 

225.  Topsail  Bunt  Lines. 

226.  Top-gallant  Bunt  Lines. 

227.  Leech  Lines. 

228.  «  « 

229.  After  Leech  Lines. 

230.  Spanker  Brails. 
'231.  Trysail  Brails. 

232.  Main  Topmast  Staysail  Brails. 

233.  Jib  Brails. 

234.  Jib  and  Flying  Jib  Guys. 


14 


CONTENTS. 


235.  Lower  Boom  Guys. 

236.  «         «     after  Guys. 

237.  Spanker  Boom  Guys. 

238.  Storm  Staysail  Gear. 

239.  Staysail  Jack  Stays. 

240.  Staysail  Downhaul  Blocks. 

241.  Stow,  Hold,  and  Spirit  Room. 

242.  Stow  the  Casks. 

243.  "     Naval  Stores. 

244.  Get  on  board  Cables. 

245.  Chain  Cables. 

246.  Get  an  anchor  on  board. 

247.  Bend  Cables. 

248.  Range  and  Stopper  a  Cable. 

249.  Stoppers  and  Nippers. 

250.  Trip  Stopper. 

251.  Deck      « 

252.  Ring       " 

253.  Bitt        '' 

254.  Dog       « 

255.  Compressor  or  Combing  Stopper. 

256.  Nippers. 

257.  To  pass  Nippers. 

258.  "    splice  Cables. 

259.  Cut  and  pass  Messenger. 

260.  Dip  Messenger. 

261.  Get  Guns  on  Board. 

262.  Ship  and  Unship  a  Rudder. 


CONTENTS.  15 

263.  Bend  Sails. 

264.  «    Flying  Jib,  Jib  and  Fore  Topmast  Stay. 

sail. 

265.  To  carry  out  an  Anchor. 

266.  "    Haul  Off  and  Moor  Ship. 

267.  Getting  in  Spare  Spars. 

268.  Station  the  Crew. 

269.  '•  ''  "  at  (Quarters. 

270.  "  "  "  "        " 

271.  "  *'  •'  Mooring  and  .Unmooring. 

272.  "  "  "  Loosing  and  Furling. 

273.  "  "  ''  Tacking  and  Veering. 

274.  «  "  "  Reefing. 

275.  Mark  a  Lead  Line. 

276.  "     a  Log     " 

277.  Clear  Hawse. 

278.  "         « 

279.  Weigh  an  Anchor  with  the  Launch. 

280.  "         "         *«     by  the  Buoy  Rope. 

281.  To  take  in  a  Launch. 

282.  "      "     in  Boats,  both  sides  at  once. 

283.  Unmoor  Ship. 

284.  "        when  the  Messenger  strands,  or  is 

likely  to  part. 

285.  "        leeward  tide,  to  get  Under  Way  and 

stand  out  on  a  Wind. 

286.  To  get  Under  Way  and  stand   before  the 

Wind. 


16  CONTENTS. 

287.  In  getting  Under  Way,  back  astern  to  avoid 

Danger. 

288  Getting  Under  Way,  a  Shoal  on  each  Beam. 

289.  Get  Under  Way.  at  Anchor  in  a  Narrow 

Channel. 

290.  Head  to  Wind,  Cast  on  the  Larboard  Tack. 

291.  Windward  tide,  get  Under  Way  and  Stand 

before  the  AVind. 

252.  To  get  Under  Way  and  Stand  out  on  a  Wind. 

293.  "  get  Under  Way,  head  to  tide  and  Wind 

on  Starboard  Quarter. 

294.  To  get  underway,  wind  across  the  tide. 

295.  "     "  "           Flood  Tide. 

296.  Back  and  fill  in  a  Tideway. 

297.  Drive  before  the  Wind. 

298.  Drive  Broadside  too. 

299.  Secure  the  Ship  for  Sea. 

300.  Stow  Anchors  for  Sea. 

301.  Make  Sail  when  getting  under  way. 

302.  To  set  Top-gallant  Sails,  blowing  fresh. 

303.  "       Courses,  moderate  weather. 

304.  "  "        blowing  fresh: 

305.  "      Spanker. 

306.  "       Jib. 

307.  A  Man  Overboard,  by  the  Wind. 

308.  Set  Lower  Studding  Sails. 

309.  Take  in  Top-gallant  Sails. 

310.  "     Top  Mast  Studding  Sails. 


CONTENTS.  IT 

311.  Reef  Top  Sails  and  Courses. 

312.  Reef  Top  Sails  in  Stays. 

313.  Part  a  Weather  Top  Sail  brace  in  reefing. 

314.  «     Top  Sail  Yard  Parel. 

315.  To  take  in  close  reefed  Top  Sail. 

316.  "  a  Course. 

317.  "  a  Spanker. 

318.  «  a  Jib. 

319.  Set  a  close  reefed  Top-saiL 

320.  Jib  Splits. 

321.  Close  reefed  Top-sail  Splits. 

322.  Course  Splits. 

323.  Bend  a  New  Course  before  the  Old  One  is 

unbent. 

324.  Secure  Guns  for  a  Gale. 

325.  Breeching  bolts  begin  to  draw. 

326.  A  Gun  adrift. 

327.  Send  down  Top-gallant  Yards. 

328.  House  Top-gallant  Masts. 

329.  On  a  Lee  Shore,  Jib  Courses  and  Spanker 

under  Top-gallant  Sails. 

330.  Tacking  under  double  reefed  Top-sails. 

331.  To  Clubhaul,  Missing  Stays. 

332.  On  a  Lee  Shore  to  reduce  Sail. 

333.  A  Ship  on  Shore,  what  to  do. 

334.  Precautions  for  Scudding. 

335.  Broaching  too. 

336.  Brought  by  the  Lee. 


I 


18 


CONTENTS. 


337.  To  heave  too. 

338.  To  veer  under  close  reefed  Top-sails  and 

Stay-sails. 

339.  To  veer  under  Main-sail. 

340.  «         «      Bare  Poles. 

341.  Cut  away  a  Mast. 

342.  Laying  too  ynder  lower  Stay-sails,  veer  Ship. 

343.  Lying  too,  a  Sail  is  discovered  ahead,  and 

close  aboard. 

344.  Fore-mast  carried  away. 

345.  Rig  a  Jury-mast. 

346.  Main-mast  carried  away. 

347.  Bowsprit  carried  away. 

348.  Top-mast  carried  away. 

349.  Jib  boom  carried  away. 

350.  Fore-mast  and  Bowsprit  carried  away. 
451 .  Bowsprit  sprung. 

352.  Fore-mast  sprung. 

353.  Top-mast  sprung. 

354.  To  send  aloft  a  Top-mast  in  a  heavy  head  sea. 

355.  Gammoning  carried  away. 

356.  Lower  cap  splits. 

357.  Trussle  trees  sprung. 

358.  Lower  Yard  carried  away. 

359.  Top-sail  Yard  carried  away. 

360.  Ship  Leaks. 

361.  Pumps  Choked. 

362.  Shot  gets  loose  in  a  Gun  in  a  Gale. 


CONTENTS.  19 

363.  Throw  a  Lower  Deck  Gun  overboard. 

364.  Turn  out  Reefs. 

365.  Rudder  carried  away. 

366.  Ship  on  Fire. 

367.  "      "  Beam  ends. 

368.  Wind  free,  all  sail  set,  struck  by  a  squall. 

369.  Struck  by  a  squall  on  a  Lee  Shore. 

370.  "  "  "      under    Top-sails,  and 
Courses. 

371.  Part  weather  Main-top-sail  braces. 

372.  •'    Jib  down  haul. 

373.  To  chase. 

374.  "       "       to  windward. 

375.  Observations  for  the  Ship  to  windward. 

376.  Chase  to  Leeward. 

377.  To  windward  of  an  enemy  Main  rigging 

shot  away. 

378.  Wind  on  the  'quarter  bring  by  under  double 

reefed  Top-sails. 

379.  Wind  on  the  quarter,  all  sail  set,  bring  too 

on  the  other  tack  under  double  reefed  Top- 
sails. 

380.  Get  the  Anchor  off  the  bows. 

381.  To  Anchor  head  to  Wind. 

382.  "         ''-        on  a  Lee  Shore. 

383.  Scudding  under  Fore-sail  to  come  to  an  an- 

chor. 

384.  To  make  a  Flying  Moor. 


20 


CONTENTS. 


385.  To  Moor  with  a  long  Scope. 

386.  Blowing  Fresh,  in  Port. 

387.  Send  down  lower  Yards. 

388.  House  Top-masts. 

389.  Back  a  Bower  by  a  Stream. 

390.  Sweep  for  an  Anchor. 

391.  Explanation  of  Sea  Terms. 

MISCELLANEOUS  ARTICLES. 

1.  Boatswain. 

2.  Squaring  Yards. — Hints. 

3.  Turning  the  hands  up. — Hints. 

4.  Inspection,  morning  and  Evening. 

5.  '*  of  Stowed  Anchors. 

6.  Setting  up  Rigging  at  Sea. 

7.  Inspection  of  Boats. 

8.  Slacking  the  Jib  Stay  in  bad  weather. 

9.  Clearing  for  Action. 

10.  Caution  in  getting  in  the  Bowsprit. 

11.  Stopping  out  Top-gallant  Yard  Rope. 

12.  Preventer  Braces. 

13.  Reeveing  Running  Rigging. 

14.  Topsail  Tyes. 

15.  Blacking  the  Rigging. 

16.  Top-gallant  Mast  Rope. 
17*  Fore  and  Main  Buntlines. 

18.  Futtock  Shrouds-. 

19.  Tops  and  Half  Tops. 


CONTENTS.  21 

20.  Striking  Topmasts. 

21.  Swaying  up  Topmasts. 

22.  Unmooring. 

23.  Reef  Lines  to  the  Topsail. 

24.  Reefing  Courses. 

25.  Top-gallant  Mast  Struck. 

26.  Keeping  a  Clear  Anchor. 

27.  Anchor' Turning  in  the  Ground. 

28.  To  tend  a  Weather  Tide. 
29-  A  Man  Overboard. 

30.  Hailing  Aloft. 

31.  Jib  Stay  and  Halyards. 

32.  Proportions  for  Cables. 

33.  "  "   Anchor. 

34.  What  length  is  necessary  to  form  a  Clinch. 

35.  To  splice  an  old  Cable  to  a  new  one. 

36.  "    send  up  Top-gallant  Yards. 

37.  "    keep  the  Hawse  clean  when  moored. 

38.  "    tend  to  Windward,  Single  Anchor. 

39.  "       "     "  Leeward. 

40.  "    back  the  Ship. 

41.  "    break  the  Sheer. 

42.  «    strip  Ship. 

43.  Gammoning  the  Bowsprit.  ^ 

44.  A  Table,  shewing  the  length  of  the  first  warp        fM 

of  Standing  Rigging. 

45.  A  Cordage  Table  of  Feet  and  Fathoms. 

46.  Continued. 


22  CONTENTS. 

47.  Weight  of  Cables,  1 20  Fathoms,  from  3  to  24 

inches.' 

48.  How  many  Fathoms  make  112  pounds. 

49.  Proportions   of   Spars  of  Merchant   Ships, 

length  of  Spars. 

50.  Thickness  of  Spars. 
51;    Yards. 

52.  Distance  for  Lower  Masts: 

53.  Breadth  of  Tops. 

54.  Rule  for  placing  Masts  in  a  Ship. 

55.  To  find  the  Tonnage  of  a  ship  by  U.  S.  mea- 

surement. 

56.  Stepping  and  Raking  Lower  Masts. 

57.  Method  of  an  Estimate  of  Standing  and  Run- 

ning Rigging  required  for  the  outfit 
of  a  44  gun  Frigate. 

58.  Shroud  laid  Cordage. 

59.  44  Gun  Frigate  continued. 

60.  "  continued. 

61.  Fore  Rigging  to  be  in  Warps  by  pairs. 

62.  Main  Shrouds  in  Warps  by  pairs. 

63.  Mizen  Rigging  to  be  in  one  Warp. 

64.  44  Gun  Ship  continued. 

65.  Estimate  of  the  Standing  and  Running  Rig- 

ging required  for  the  outfit  of  a 
Sloop  of  War  of  the  First  Class, 
mounting  22  guns. 

66.  Running  Rigging  Shroud  laid. 


CONTENTS.  23 

67.  Dimensions  of  the  Standing  and  Running 

Rigging  of  a  Ship  of  the  Line  of  the 
U.  S.  Navy. 

68.  An   Estimate  of  the  size   and  quantity  of 

Blocks  required  to  fit  out  a  Ship  of 
the  Line. 

69.  Miscellaneous  Articles. 

70.  Anchors. 

71.  Distance  from  the  Spar  Deck  of  the  U.  S. 

Ship  North  Carolina. 

72.  Dimensions  of  the  Masts,  Spars,  (fee. 

73.  «  ofaFirst  Class  Frigate. 

74.  Scale  of  the  weights  of  Cables,  Anchors,  and 

Hawsers,  &c. 

RECEIPTS. 

75.  For  Blacking  ships  Standing  Rigging. 

76.  "  "         Guns. 

77.  "  "        Hammock  Cloths. 

78.  "  making  Liquid  Blacking. 

79.  "  Blacking  Guns. 

80.  Composition  for  Blacking  Guns. 

81.  For  making  Black  Varnish. 

82.  Composition  for  Blacking  Hammock  Cloths. 

No.  1. 

83.  Do.  No.  2. 

84.  Do.  No.  3; 

85.  Do.  No.  4. 


24  CONTENTS. 

86.  Composition  for  making  Black  Varnish. 

87.  Solder  for  Tin. 

88.  "         ''   Lead. 

89.  To  make  the  best  Drying  Oil. 

90.  For  making  Black  Stain. 


« 


I^ECOMMENDATIONS. 


Examined  and  approved,  as  a  very  useful  book 
for  young  officers  and  others  in  the  navy. 
John  Gallagher, 

Captain  U.  S.  Navy. 


I  fully  concur  in  the  above. 

E.  Peck, 

Lieut.  U.  S  Navy. 


I  have  examined  the  within  treatise  on  seaman- 
ship, and  other  miscellaneous  matter  appertaining  to 
ships,  and  vessels  of  war,  (written  by  William  Brady, 
Boatswain  U.  S.  Navy.)  It  affords  ma  ^much  plea- 
sure to  recommend  the  same  to  the  junior  officers  of 
the  navy,  and  others,  who  may  be  disposed  to  learn 
the  profession  of  seamanship. 

W.  C,  Wetmore, 

Lieut.  U.  S.  Navy. 

3 


26  RECOMMENDATIONS. 

Examined  and  approved  as  a  work  that  will  be 
useful  to  the  service. 

J.  D.  L.  Saunders, 

Lieut.  U.  S.  Navy. 
J.  Matt  I  SON, 

Lieut.  U.  S.  Navy. 


I  have  carefully  examined  the  within  work  on  sea- 
manship, and  think  it  one  well  calculated  for  the  in- 
struction of  young  officers. 

C.  G.  Hunter, 

Lieut.  U.  S.  Navy. 


I  have  closely  examined  the  within  work,  and 
think  it  one  w^ell  calculated  for  the  instruction  of  the 
young  officers,  and  others  in  the  navy. 

James  Renshaw, 

Capt.  U.  S.  Nayyi 


I  fully  concur  in  tlie  above. 

Francis  O.  Ellison, 

Master  U.  S.  Navy. 


This  I  conceive  to  be  a  valuable  work,  and  well 
calculated  to  be  useful  to  the  service. 
Joshua  R.  Sands, 

Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 


KEDGE  ANCHOR 


We  shall  first  commence  with  knotting  a  ro^e 
yarn.  .        * 

1.      To  Knot  a  Rope  Yam. 

To  knot  a  rope  yarn,  you  first  take  the  two  ends  of 
your  yarns,  and  split  them  open  about  two  inches 
from  the  end,  and  if  to  make  a  smooth  knot,  you  may 
scrape  down  a  little  with  your  knife,  so  as  to  make  the 
ends  lay  smooth,  you  then  crutch  them  together  as 
you  see  in  the  plate  No.  1,  you  then  take  two  opposite 
ends  leaving  the  other  two  vacant,  taking  one  end 
over  and  the  other  under  the  standing  part  of  the 
yarn,  and  connecting  them  together  at  the  same  side 
you  took  them  from  at  first,  then  jam  your  knot  taut 
to  see  if  it  will  stand  test,  by  stretching  the  yarn  from 


28  KEDGE  ANCHOR,    OR 

knee  to  knee,  and  hauling  on  it,  and  if  the  knot  stands 
without  drawing,  you  may  trim  your  ends,  and  go  on. 


2.     To  make  a  Fox, 

Take  two  or  three  rope  yarns  and  make  them  fast 
to  a  belaying  pin,  and  stretch  them  out  taut,  twist 
them  together  on  your  knee,  then  rub  it  down  smooth 
with  a  piece  of  old  tarred  parcelling.  This  is  called  a 
fox  and  is  used  for  many  purposes,  such  as  making 
gaskets,  mats,  plats,  temporary  seizings,  bending  stud- 
ding sails,  (fee. 


3.     To  make  a  Spanish  Fox, 

Take  a  single  rope  yarn  and  make  one  end  fast  to 
a  belaying  pin  as  before,  and  untwist  and  twist  it  up 
again  the  contrary  way,  and  rub  it  smooth  ;  this  is 
used  for  small  seizings,  <fec. 


4.     To  make  a  Knittle. 

A  knittle  is  made  of  two  or  three  rope  yarns  laid 
up  together  by  hand,  twisting  them  in  your  finger 
and  thumb,  and  laying  them  up  against  the  twist  of 
the  yarii,  they  are  used  for  many  purposes  on  board 
a  ship,  and  particularly  for  hammock  clews. 


YOUNG    sailor's   ASSISTANT.  29 


5.     Overhanded  Knot. 

To  make  an  overhanded  knot,  you  pass  the  end  of 
a  rope  over  the  standing  part  and  through  the  bight. 


6.     Figure  of  Eight  Knots. 

Take  the  end  of  your  rope  round  the  standing  part, 
under  its  own  part  and  through  the  lower  bight,  and 
your  knot  is  made. 


7.     Two  Half  Hitches. 

Pass  the  end  of  your  rope  round  the  standing  part, 
and  bring  it  up  through  the  bight,  this  is  one  half 
hitch,  two  of  these,  one  above  the  other,  and  it  is 
made. 


8.     Reef  or  Square  Knot. 

First  make  an  overhanded  knot  round  a  yard^  or 
spar,  or  anything  you  please,  then  bring  the  end  being 
next  to  you  over  the  left  hand  and  through  the  bight, 
and  haul  both  ends  taut  and  it  is  made. 


30  HEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

9.     A  Bowline  Knot. 

Take  the  end  of  your  rope  in  your  right  hand,  and 
the  standing  part  in  the  left  hand,  then  lay  the  end 
over  the  standing  part,  then  with  your  left  hand  turn 
the  bight  of  the  standing  part  over  the  end  part,  so 
as  to  form  a  cuckold's  neck  on  the  standing  part,  then 
lead  your  end  round  the  standing  part  above,  and 
stick  it  down  through  the  cuckolds  neck,  and  it  will 
appear  as  in  the  plate» 


10.     Bowline  on  the  Bight. 

Take  the  bight  of  your  rope  in  your  right  hand, 
and  the  standing  part  in  the  other,  throw  a  cuckolds 
neck  over  the  bight  with  the  standing  parts,  then 
haul  enough  of  your  bight  up  through  the  cuckolds 
neck  to  go  under  and  over  all  parts,  and  jam  all  taut, 
and  it  will  appear  as  in  the  plate. 


11.     A  Running  Bowline. 

Take  the  end  of  your  rope  round  the  standing  part 
and  through  the  bight,  and  make  a  single  bowline 
upon  the  running  part,  and  your  knot  is  made. 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  31 

12.     A   Timber  Hitch. 

Take  the  end  of  your  rope  round  a  spar,  and  pass 
it  under  and  over  the  standing  part,  then  pass  several 
turns  round  its  own  part  and  it  is  done. 


13.     A  FishermarCs  Bend. 

With  the  end  of  a  rope  take  two  round  turns  round 
a  spar,  or  through  the  ring  of  a  kedge  anchor,  then 
take  one  half  hitch  around  the  standing  part  and  un- 
der all  parts  of  your  turns,  then  one  half  hitch  around 
the  standing  part  above  all,  and  stop  the  end  to  the 
standing  part ;  or  you  can  dispense  with  the  last  half 
hitch,  and  tuck  your  end  under  one  of  the  round  turns 
and  it  becomes  a  studding-sail  bend. 


14.     A  Rolling  Bend. 

A  rolling  bend  is  something  similar  to  fisherman's 
bend,  it  is  two  round  turns  round  a  spar  as  you  see 
in  the  plate,  two  half  hitches  around  the  standing 
part,  and  the  end  stopped  back.     {See  plate.) 


15.     A  Carrick  Bend, 
This  bend  is  more  used  in  bending  hawsers  to- 


32  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

gether,  more  than  any  thing  else.  In  forming  this 
bend  you  will  take  the  end  of  your  hawser  and  form 
a  bight,  by  laying  the  end  part  on  the  top  of  the 
standing  part,  so  as  to  form  a  cross,  then  take  the 
end  of  the  other  hawser,  and  reeve  it  down 
through  this  bight  and  up  and  over  this  cross,  then 
tuck  the  end  down  through  the  bight  again  on  the 
opposite  side,  from  the  other  end,  for  one  end  must 
be  on  the  top,  and  the  other  underneath  as  you  see 
in  the  plate. 

tO^  If  both  end  parts  come  out  on  the  top  it  will 
be  a  granney's  knot.     Remember  this. 


16.  A  Cats  Paw. 
This  is  generally  used  in  the  ends  of  lanyards,  to 
hook  a  tackle  to  in  setting  up  rigging,  to  form  it,  you 
first  lay  the  end  part  of  your  lanyard  across  the 
standing  part  which  will  form  a  bight,  then  lay  hold 
of  the  bight  with  one  hand  on  each  side  of  it,  break- 
ing it  down  and  turning  it  over  from  you  two  or 
three  times,  then  clap  both  bights  together  and  hook 
on  to  both  parts.     {JSee  Plate.) 


17.     A  Sheet  or  BecJcet  Bend, 
Pass  the  end  of  your  rope  through  the  bight  of 


33 

another  rope,  or  through  the  becket  of  a  block,  then 
round  both  parts  of  the  bight  or  becket,  and  take  the 
end  under  its  own  part,  as  you  see  m  the  plate.  Some 
people  put  it  under  twice  and  stop  the  end  back  to 
the  standing  part. 


IS.     A  Back  Wall, 

This  is  used  with  a  lanyard  in  setting  up  rigging 
to  hook  a  luff  tackle  to,  instead  of  a  cats  paw,  where 
the  end  of  your  lanyard  is  not  long  enough  to  form 
a  paw,  but  a  strap  and  toggle  is  preferable  to  both, 
to  make  a  back- wall  over  a  hook,  you  form  a  bight 
or  rather  a  kink  with  the  end  of  your  lanyard,  hav- 
ing the  end  part  underneath,  and  the  standing  part 
on  the  top,  then  stick  the  hook  through  the  bight, 
keeping  the  bight  well  up  on  the  beck  of  the  hook, 
as  you  see  in  the  plate,  until  you  set  taut  your  tackle. 
Note.  You  can  learn  it  better  by  practice  than 
explanation. 


19.     A  Rolling  Hitch. 

With  the  end  of  a  rope  take  a  half  hitch  round 
the  standing  part,  then  take  another  through  the 
same  bight,  jambing  it  in  above  the  first  hitch  and 
the  upper  part  of  the  bight,  then  haul  it  taut,  and 


34  KEDGE  ANCHOR,    OR 

dog  your  end  above  your  hitch,  around  the  standing 
part,  or  you  may  take  a  half  hitch  around  the  stand- 
ing part,  and  stop  your  end  back  with  a  yarn. 


20.  A  Selvage  Strap, 

To  make  a  Selvage  strap  you  may  get  a  couple 
of  spike  nails,  and  drive  into  an  old  piece  of  plank 
or  whatever  you  can  find  convenient  to  answer  the 
purpose,  or  you  can  take  two  hooks  if  you  can  get 
them,  and  lash  them  to  any  convenient  place  as  far 
apart  as  the  length  you  intend  to  make  your  strap, 
then  take  the  end  of  your  ball  of  rope  yarns,  and 
make  it  fast  to  one  of  the  spikes  or  hooks,  then  take 
it  around  the  other  one,  and  keep  passing  round  and 
round,  and  hauling  every  turn  taut  as  you  pass  it, 
until  it  is  as  stout  as  you  wish  it  to  be,  if  it  is  to  be  a 
very  large  strap,  marl  it  down  with  stout  spurn  yarn, 
if  middling  size,  two  single  rope  yarns,  if  a  small 
strap,  a  single  rope  yarn. 


21.     A  Pudding  for  a  Mast  or  Yard. 

Take  a  piece  of  rope  the  length  you  require,  and 
splice  an  eye  in  each  end,  then  get  it  on  a  stretch 
and  worm  it,  then  parcel  it  according  to  the  shape 
you  want  it.     They  are  generally  made  as  you  see 


I<i 


34  KEDGE  ANCHOR,    OR 

dog  your  end  above  your  hitch,  around  the  standing 
part,  or  you  may  take  a  half  hitch  around  the  stand- 
ing part,  and  stop  your  end  back  with  a  yarn. 


20.  A  Selvage  Straj). 

To  make  a  Selvage  strap  you  may  get  a  couple 
of  spike  nails,  and  drive  into  an  old  piece  of  plank 
or  whatever  you  can  find  convenient  to  answer  the 
purpose,  or  you  can  take  two  hooks  if  you  can  get 
them,  and  lash  them  to  any  convenient  place  as  far 
apart  as  the  length  you  intend  to  make  your  strap, 
then  take  the  end  of  your  ball  of  rope  yarns,  and 
make  it  fast  to  one  of  the  spikes  or  hooks,  then  take 
it  around  the  other  one,  and  keep  passing  round  and 
round,  and  hauling  every  turn  taut  as  you  pass  it, 
until  it  is  as  stout  as  you  wish  it  to  be,  if  it  is  to  be  a 
very  large  strap,  marl  it  down  with  stout  spurn  yarn, 
if  middling  size,  two  single  rope  yarns,  if  a  small 
strap,  a  single  rope  yarn. 


21.     A  Pudding  for  a  Mast  or  Yard. 

Take  a  piece  of  rope  the  length  you  require,  and 
splice  an  eye  in  each  end,  then  get  it  on  a  stretch 
and  worm  it,  then  parcel  it  according  to  the  shape 
you  want  it.     They  are  generally  made  as  you  see 


TCTID'EriTf  t^ ,  351R1TX)j1:H"(B-,  MiZZ(CM)CTi?r   & 


ji'r^LTJs 


O.l^Met-i^Mitk 


34 

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if: 

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35 

in  the  plate,  large  in  the  middle,  and  taper  gradually 
towards  the  ends,  and  made  flat  on  the  side  that 
goes  next  to  the  mast  or  yard,  when  you  have  got  it 
the  size  you  wish,  marl  it  down,  beginning  in  the 
middle  and  marling  both  ways,  until  you  come  to  the 
eye,  if  it  is  for  a  yard  it  is  generally  covered  with 
thick  leather  or  green  hide,  if  for  a  mast,  it  is  pointed 
over  for  neatness. 


22.     A  Short  Splice. 

To  splice  the  two  ends  of  a  rope  together,  you 
first  unlay  your  rope  to  a  convenient  length,  then, 
crutch  them  together  as  you  see  in  the  plate,  then 
you  must  lay  hold  of  the  three  strands  next  to  you 
in  your  left  hand,  holding  them  solid  around  the 
other  part  till  you  stick  your  three  upper  ends, 
or  if  it  is  a  large  rope,  you  may  stop  your  ends  with 
a  yarn,  then  take  the  upper  or  middle  end,  and  pass 
it  over  the  first  strand  next  to  it,  and  then  stick  it  un- 
derneath the  second  strand,  and  haul  it  taut  in  the 
lay  of  the  rope,  then  turn  your  rope  a  little  to  you, 
and  stick  your  second  end  as  you  did  your  first,  and 
your  third  in  the  same  manner,  hauling  them  taut 
along  the  lay,  then  turn  your  rope  round,  and  stick 
the  other  three  ends  in  the  same  way,  and  it  will  ap- 
pear as  in  the  plate. 


36 

Note.  If  you  intend  to  serve  over  your  ends,  you 
need  not  stick  them  but  once,  but  if  not  you  must 
stick  them  twice  and  cross  whip  them  across  the 
s  trands,  so  as  to  make  them  more  secure.  If  you  in- 
tend to  serve  over  your  ends,  you  must  take  a  few 
of  your  underneath  yarns,  enough  to  fill  up  the  lay 
of  your  rope  for  worming,  then  scrape  or  trim  your 
outside  ends,  and  marl  them  down  ready  for  serving. 

23.     A  Long  splice. 

To  make  a  long  splice  unlay  the  end  of  two  ropes 
to  a  convenient  distance,  then  crutch  them  together 
the  same  as  a  short  splice,  then  unlay  one  strand  for 
a  considerable  length,  and  fill  up  the  space  which  it 
leaves,  with  the  opposite  strand  next  to  it,  then  slew 
your  rope  round,  and  lay  hold  of  the  two  next  strands 
that  will  come  opposite  their  respective  lays,  then 
unlay  one  and  fill  up  with  the  other  as  before,  then 
cut  ojff  your  long  strands,  square  with  the  short 
strands,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the  plate.  To  com- 
plete this  splice,  you  will  split  the  strands  equally 
in  two,  then  take  the  two  opposite  half  strands  and 
knot  them  together,  so  as  to  fill  up  the  vacant  lay, 
then  you  stick  your  ends  twice  under  two  strands 
with  all  six  of  your  half  strands,  leaving  the  other 
six  neutral,  then  stretch  your  splice  well  before  you 
cut  your  ends  oif  and  it  is  finished. 


37 

24.  Eye  Splice. 

Is  made  by  opening  the  end  of  a  rope  and  laying 
the  strands  at  any  distance  upon  the  standing  part 
of  the  rope,  according  to  the  size  you  intend  to 
make  your  eye  splice,  you  then  divide  your  strands 
by  putting  one  sti;and  on  the  top  and  one  under- 
neath the  standing  part,  then  take  your  middle 
strand,  having  previously  opened  the  lay  with  a 
marlinespike,  and  stick  it  under  its  respective  strand 
as  you  see  in  the  plate  ;  your  next  end  is  taken  over 
the  first  strand  and  under  the  second,  and  the  third 
and  last  end  is  taken  through  the  third  strand  on  the 
other  side. 


25.  A  Cut  Splice, 

Cut  a  rope  in  two,  and  according  to  the  size  you 
intend  to  make  your  splice  or  collar,  lay  the  end  of 
one  rope  on  the  standing  part  of  the  other,  and  stick 
the  end  through  between  the  strands  the  same  as  an 
eye  splice,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the  plate.  This  forms 
a  collar  in  the  bight  of  a  rope,  and  is  used  for  pen- 
dants, jib-guys,  breast-back  stays,  odd  shrouds,  <fec. 


26.  ^  Flemish  Eye. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope,  then  open  the  strands 
4 


38  HEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

and  separate  every  yarn,  then  divide  them  in  two 
halves,  then  take  a  piece  of  round  wood,  the  size  you 
intend  to  make  your  eye,  and  half  knot  about  one 
half  of  your  inside  yarns  over  the  piece  of  wood  as 
you  see  in  the  plate,  scrape  the  remainder  down 
over  the  others,  and  marl,  parcel  and  serve,  or  hitch 
it  with  hamberline,  if  you  choose;  this  makes  a  snug 
eye  for  the  collars  of  stays. 


27.  An  Artificial  Eye. 

Take  the  end  of  a  rope,  and  unlay  one  strand  to 
a  certain  distance,  and  form  the  eye  by  placing  the 
two  strands  along  the  standing  part  of  the  rope  and 
stopping  them  fast  to  it,  then  take  the  odd  strand  and 
cross  it  over  the  standing  part,  and  lay  it  into  the 
vacant  place  you  took  it  from  at  first,  work  around 
the  eye,  filling  up  the  vacant  strand  until  it  comes 
out  at  the  crutch  again,  and  lies  under  the  other 
two  strands ;  the  ends  are  tapered  and  scraped 
down,  marled  and  served  over  with  spun  yarn. 


28.   To  worm  and  serve  a  rope. 

Worming  a  rope  is  to  fill  up  the  vacant  space  be- 
tween the  strands  of  the  rope  with  spur;  yarn,  this 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  :   39 

is  done  in  order  to  strengthen  it,  and  to  render  the 
surface  smooth  and  round  for  parcelling. 

Parcelling  a  rope  is  wrapping  old  canvass  round  it, 
cut  in  strips  from  two  to  three  inches  wide  according 
to  the  size  of  the  rope,  the  strips  of  canvass  to  be 
well  tarred  and  rolled  up  in  rolls  before  you  com- 
mence to  lay  it  on  the  rope,  the  service  is  of  spun 
yarn,  clapped  on  by  a  wooden  mallet  such  as  you 
see  in  the  plate,  called  a  serving  mallet,  it  has  got  ^ 
large  score  cut  in  the  under  part  of  it,  so  as  to  fay  on 
the  rope  and  a  round  handle  about  a  foot  long,  or 
according  to  the  size  of  the  mallet ;  the  service  is  al- 
ways laid  on  against  the  lay  of  the  rope,  a  boy  passes 
the  ball  of  spun  yarn  at  some  distance  from  the  man 
that  is  serving  the  rope,  and  passes  it  round  as  he 
turns  the  mallet,  when  he  has  put  the  required  length 
of  service,  the  end  is  put  through  under  the  three  or 
four  last  turns  of  the  service  and  hauled  taut. 

Note.  It  has  always  been  customary  to  put  par- 
celling on  with  the  lay  of  the  rope  in  all  cases.  But 
rigging  that  you  do  not  intend  to  serve  over,  the 
parcelling  ought  to  be  put  on  ihe  contrary  way. 


29.    To  clap  on  a  Throat  and  quarter  seizing. 

Splice  an  eye  in  the  end  of  the  seizing,  and  take 
the  other  end  round  both  parts  of  the  rope  that  you 


40  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


intend  to  put  it  on  to,  then  reeve  it  through  the  eye, 
pass  a  couple  of  turns,  and  heave  them  hand  taut, 
then  make  a  marline-spike  hitch  on  the  seizing.  By 
taking  a  turn  with  the  seizing  over  the  marlinespike 
and  laying  the  end  part  over  the  standing  part,  and 
then  pushing  the  marlinespike  down  through,  then 
under  the  standing  part,  and  up  through  the  bite 
again,  h^ave  those  two  turns  taut,  with  the  spike, 
pass  the  rest  and  heave  them  taut  in  the  same  man- 
ner, making  6,  8,  or  ten  turns  according  to  the  size 
of  the  rope,  then  push  the  end  through  the  last  turn, 
then  pass  the  riding  turns,  5,  7,  or  9,  always  laying 
one  less  of  the  riding  turns,  than  of  the  first  turns ; 
these  ar3  not  to  be  hove  too  taut,  the  end  is  now 
pushed  up  through  the  seizing,  and  two  cross  turns 
are  taken  between  the  two  parts  of  the  rope,  and 
round  the  seizing,  taking  the  end  under  the  last 
turn,  and  hove  well  taut,  and  an  overhanded  knot 
clapped  on  the  end  of  the  seizing,  and  cut  off  close 
to  the  knot. 

Note.  When  this  is  clapped  on  the  end  of  a  rope, 
and  round  the  standing  part,  it  is  called  an  end  seiz- 
ing, if  on  the  two  parts,  below  the  end,  a  middle  or 
quarter  seizing ;  a  throat  seizing  is  passed  the  same 
way,  hut  is  not  crossed  with  the  end  of  the  seizing. 


30.   To  make  a  TurWs  head. 
Turk's  heads  are  made  on  man  ropes  and  some- 


TC    foTT 


O  'WZi^^'-'Li^- 


40  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

intend  to  put  it  on  to,  then  reeve  it  through  the  eye, 
pass  a  couple  of  turns,  and  heave  them  hand  taut, 
then  make  a  marline-spike  hitch  on  the  seizing.  By 
taking  a  turn  with  the  seizing  over  the  marlinespike 
aiid  laying  the  end  part  over  the  standing  part,  and 
then  pushing  the  marlinespike  down  through,  then 
under  the  standing  part,  and  up  through  the  bite 
again,  hoave  those  two  turns  taut,  with  the  spike, 
pass  the  rest  and  heave  them  taut  in  tlie  same  man- 
ner, making  6,  8,  or  ten  turns  according  to  the  size 
of  the  rope,  then  push  the  end  through  the  last  turn, 
then  pass  the  riding  turns,  5,  7,  or  9,  always  laying 
one  less  of  the  riding  turns,  than  of  the  first  turns; 
these  ar3  not  to  be  hov^e  too  taut,  the  end  is  now 
pushed  up  through  the  seizing,  and  two  cross  turns 
are  taken  between  the  two  parts  of  the  rope,  and 
round  the  seizing,  taking  the  end  under  the  last 
turn,  and  hove  well  taut,  and  an  overhanded  knot 
clapped  on  the  end  of  the  seizing,  and  cut  oif  close 
to  the  knot. 

Note.  When  this  is  clapped  on  the  end  of  a  rope, 
and  round  the  standing  part,  it  is  called  an  end  seiz- 
ing, if  on  the  two  parts,  below  the  end,  a  middle  or 
quarter  seizing ;  a  throat  seizing  is  passed  the  same 
way,  but  is  not  crossed  with  the  end  of  the  seizing. 


30.   To  make  a  Turk^s  head. 
Turk's  heads  are  made  on  man  ropes  and  some- 


.'3.rajH'ir^^&    ^^ 


l^JjATJ-:  JI. 


41 


times  on  the  footropes  of  jibbooms  in  the  place  of  an 
overhanded  knot,  as  the  Turk's  head  is  much  neater 
than  the  knot,  and  considered  by  some  an  ornament. 
It  is  generally  made  of  small  white  line.  Take  a 
clove  hitch  with  the  line  round  the  rope  you  intend 
to  make  the  Turk's  head  on,  then  cross  the  bights  on 
each  side  of  the  clove  hitch,  and  stick  one  end  un- 
der one  cross,  and  the  other  end  under  the  other 
cross,  and  it  will  be  formed  like  the  middle  figure  in 
the  plate,  after  which  follow  the  lead  until  it  show 
three  parts  all  round,  and  it  will  be  done. 


31.   To  Sheepshank  a  rope  or  Backstay. 

It  is  made  for  shortening  a  backstay,  the  rope  is 
doubled  in  three  parts  as  you  see  in  the  plate,  and  a 
hitch  taken  over  each  bight  with  the  standing  part 
of  the  Backstay,  and  jambed  taut.  , 


32.   To  put  a  strand  in  a  rope. 

This  is  done  in  case  of  one  strand  of  a  rope  get- 
ting chafed  or  magged,  and  the  other  two  remaining 
good.  To  perform  this,  you  take  your  knife  and  cut 
the  strand  in  the  place  where  it  is  chafed,  and  unlay 

it  about  a  couple  of  feet  each  way,  then  take  a 
4* 


42 


KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 


strand  of  a  rope  as  near  the  size  as  you  can  get,  and 
lay  it  in  the  vacancy  of  your  rope  as  you  see  in  the 
plate,  and  stick  your  ends  the  same* as  a  long  splice. 


33.   To   Wall  and  Crown. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope,  and  with  the  three 
strands  form  a  wall  knot,  by  taking  the  first  strand 
and  forming  a  bight,  then  take  the  next  strand,  and 
bring  it  round  the  end  of  the  first,  and  the  third 
strand  round  the  second,  and  up  through  the  bight 
of  the  first,  this  is  a  wall  as  you  see  in  the  plate. 
To  crown  this,  lay  one  end  over  the  top  of  the  knot, 
which  call  the  first,  then  lay  the  second  over  it  and 
the  third  over  the  second,  and  through  the  bight  of 
the  first  and  it  will  appear  as  you  see  in  the  plate. 


34.   To  make  a  Matthew  Walker. 

Is  made  by  opening  the  strands  of  a  rope  and  tak- 
ing the  first  strand  round  the  rope  and  through  its 
own  bight,  then  take  the  second  end  round  the  rope 
underneath,  through  the  bite  of  the  first,  and  through 
its  own  bight,  and  the  third  end  take  round  the  saine 
way,  underneath  and  throuo^h  the  bights  of  all  three, 
haul  your  ends  well  taut  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the 
plate ;  this  is  a  good  lanyard  knot  if  well  made. 


YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  43 

35.  A  Spritsail  Sheet  Knot. 

Unlay  two  ends  of  a  rope  and  place  the  two  parts 
which  were  unlaid,  together,  form  a  bight  with  one 
strand,  and  wall  the  six  together  against  the  lay  of 
the  rope,  which  is  hawser  laid,  the  same  as  you  would 
a  single  wall  with  three  ends,  after  you  have  walled 
with  six  ends,  haul  them  taut,  and  then  you  must 
crown  with  the  six  ends  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the 
plate ;  to  complete  it  you  must  follow  the  lead  of  the 
parts,  and  double  wall  and  crown  it  and  it  is  done. 
This  is  often  used  for  a  stopper  knot  in  old  fashion- 
ed ships. 


36.   A  Shroud  Knot, 

Unlay  the  ends  of  two  ropes,  placing  them  one 
within  the  other,  the  same  as  you  commence  to 
make  a  short  splice,  then  single  wall  the  ends  of  one 
rope  round  the  standing  part  of  the  other,  then  wall 
the  other  three  ends  the  same  way,  the  ends  are 
opened  out  and  tapered  down  and  served  over  with 
spun  yarn ;  this  knot  is  used  when  a  shroud  is  either 
shot  or  carried  away. 


37.   A  French  Shroud  Knot. 
Place  the  ends  of  two  ropes  as  before,  drawing 


44  KEDGE   ANCHOR,   OR 

them  close  together,  then  lay  your  first  three  ends 
back  upon  their  own  part,  and  single  wall  the  other 
three  ends,  round  the  bights  of  the  other  three  and 
the  standing  part,  and  it  will  appear  like  the  figure 
in  the  plate ;  the  ends  are  tapered  as  the  other,  this  is 
a  much  snugger  knot  than  the  common  shroud  knot. 


38.  Single  Diamond  Knot. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope  a  convenient  length  to 
make  your  knot,  and  with  the  three  strands  form 
three  bights,  holding  the  ends  iast  down  the  side  pf 
the  rope  in  your  left  hand,  with  the  standing  part  of 
the  rope,  then  take  the  first  strand  over  the  bight  of 
the  second  strand  and  through  the  bite  of  the  third, 
then  take  the  second  over  the  third  and  through  the 
bight  of  the  first,  then  the  third  over  the  first  and 
through  the  second.  Haul  these  taut  and  lay  the 
ends  of  your  strands  up  again  and  it  will  appear  as 
in  the  plate.  It  is  used  for  jibboom,  foot  ropes,  man 
ropes,  <fcc. 


39.  A  Double  Diamond  Knot. 

To  make  this,  you  make  a  single  one  as  before, 
then  take  a  marline  spike  and  open  your  strands, 
and  follow  the  lead  through  two  single  bights,  the 


5 


45 

he  ends 
ppear  as 


y  as  has 
ends,  if 
up  ;  but 


aen  take 
I  lay  the 
take  the 
iigle  and 
rt  of  the 
rm  them 


gether  as 


r-^V^ni'iS: 


44  KEDGE   ANCHOR,   OR 

them  close  together,  then  lay  your  first  three  ends 
back  upon  their  own  part,  and  single  wall  the  other 
three  ends,  round  the  bights  of  the  other  three  and 
the  standing  part,  and  it  will  appear  like  the  figure 
in  the  plate ;  the  ends  are  tapered  as  the  other,  this  is 
a  much  snugger  knot  than  the  common  shroud  knot. 


38.  Single  Diamond  Knot. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope  a  convenient  length  to 
make  your  knot,  and  with  the  three  strands  form 
three  bights,  holding  the  ends  iast  down  the  side  pf 
the  rope  in  your  left  hand,  with  the  standing  part  of 
the  rope,  then  take  the  first  strand  over  the  bight  of 
the  second  strand  and  through  the  bite  of  the  third, 
then  take  the  second  over  the  third  and  through  the 
bight  of  the  first,  then  the  third  over  the  first  and 
through  the  second.  Haul  these  taut  and  lay  the 
ends  of  your  strands  up  again  and  it  will  appear  as 
in  the  plate.  It  is  used  for  jibboom,  foot  ropes,  man 
ropes,  (fee. 


39.  A  Double  Diamond  Knot. 

To  make  this,  you  make  a  single  one  as  before, 
then  take  a  marline  spike  and  open  your  strands, 
and  follow  the  lead  through  two  single  bights,  the 


lE^ri-^TIPTX^. 


i'y,Aj:E  /jz. 


44 

them  clos 
back  upor 
three  eudf 
the  standi 
in  the  plal 
a  much  sr 


Unlay  t 
make  you 
three  high 
the  rope  i 
the  rope,  t 
the  second 
then  take 
bight  of  tfj 
through  tl: 
ends  of  yc 
in  the  plat^ 
ropes,  (fee. 


To  mak. 
then  take 
and  follow 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  45 

ends  coming  out  at  the  top  of  the  knot,  lay  the  ends 
of  your  strands  up  as  before,  and  it  will  appear  as 
in  the  plate. 


40.  A  /Stopper  Knot. 

Is  made  by  double  walling  and  crowning  as  has 
been  described  before  on  an  other  page,  the  ends,  if 
very  short  are  whipped  without  being  layed  up  ;  but 
if  long  they  are  layed  up  and  stopped. 


41.  A  Buoy  Rope  Knot. 

Unlay  the  strands  of  a  cable  laid  rope,  then  take 
one  strand  out  of  the  large  ones,  and  then  lay  the 
three  large  ones  up  again  as  before,  and  take  the 
three  small  ones  which  were  left  out,  and  single  and 
double  wall  them  round  the  standing  part  of  the 
rope,  then  take  your  spare  ends,  and  worm  them 
along  the  lay  and  stop  them. 


42.    Cominon  Sennit. 

Sennit  is  made  by  plaiting  rope  yarns  together  as 
is  described  in  the  plate. 


46  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

43.  A  Sea  Gasket. 

Is  made  by  taking  three  or  four  foxes  according 
to  the  size  you  intend  to  make  your  gasket.  Middle 
them  over  a  belaying  pin,  and  plait  three  or  four 
together,  long  enough  to  make  your  eye,  then  clap 
both  parts  together  to  form  your  eye,  then  plait  it  by 
bringing  the  outside  foxes  on  each  side  alternately 
over  to  the  middle,  the  outside  one  is  laid  with  the 
right  hand,  and  the  remainder  held  steadily,  work 
the  whole  together,  adding  one  fox,  and  when  you  have 
got  it  a  convenient  length,  commence  to  diminish  by 
dropping  a  fox  at  proper  intervals.  To  finish  it,  you 
must  lay  one  end  up,  leaving  its  bight  down,  then 
plait  the  others  through  this  bight,  about  one  inch, 
then  haul  the  bight  taut,  to  secure  all  parts,  and  cut 
the  ends  off,  and  whip  it  and  it  is  done. 


44.  A  Panch  or  wrought  Mat. 

A  piece  of  six  or  nine  thread  is  stretched  in  a  hori- 
zontal direction,  and  the  foxes  according  to  the 
breadth  you  intend  to  make  the  mat,  are  middled 
and  hung  over  it,  then  take  the  fox  nearest  th§  left 
hand,  and  twist  a  turn  in  the  two  parts,  and  one  part 
give  to  the  man  opposite  (two  people  being  employed 
to  work  the  mat,)  the  next  fox  has  a  turn  twisted  in 
its  two  parts,  and  one  part  given  back  to  your  part- 


47 

ner,  the  remaining  is  twisted  round  the  first  which 
was  given  back,  and  then  again  round  its  own  part, 
and  so  on  with  the  remainder  of  the  foxes,  until  you 
get  it  the  breadth  you  wish,  at  the  bottom  of  the  mat 
selvage  it  by  taking  a  piece  of  nine  thread,  the  same 
as  you  used  for  the  top,  the  two  parts  of  the  foxes 
which  are  twisted  together  at  the  bottom  are  divided, 
and  the  nine  thread  put  between  them,  the  foxes  are 
hitched  round  it,  and  the  end  put  through  its  own 
lay  with  a  marlingspike,  then  trim  your  ends  off', 
and  thrumb  it  with  pieces  of  old  strands  of  rope,  cut 
in  pieces,  about  three  or  four  inches  long,  open  the 
lays  of  your  foxes  with  a  marlingspike,  and  push 
your  thrumbs  through  the  lays  and  open  the  ends 
out. 


45.  Harbour  Gasket  or  French  Sennit. 

Is  made  with  foxes,  something  like  the  way  you 
make  a  common  sea  gasket,  in  the  room  of  taking 
the  outside  fox  over'all  the  rest,  and  bringing  it  into 
the  middle,  you  interweave  it  between  them  by  tak- 
ing the  outside  fox  of  both  sides,  and  taking  it  over 
one  and  under  the  other,  working  it  towards^  the 
middle  the  same  as  common  sennit. 


46.  Pointing  a  rope. 
Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope  a  convenient  length  for 


^ 


48  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

pointing  and  stop  it,  open  the  strands  out  into  yarns 
and  take  out  as  many  of  the  outside  yarns  as  you 
think  it  will  require  to  make  you  knittles,  by  split- 
ting your  yarns  and  making  one  knittle  out  of  every 
outside  yarn,  then  when  they  are  made  stop  them 
back  on  the  standing  part  of  the  rope,  then  form 
your  point,  with  the  rest  of  the  yarns,  by  trimming 
and  scraping  them  down  to  a  proper  size,  then  marl 
it  down  with  twine,  then  divide  your  knittles,  taking 
every  other  one  up,  and  every  other  one  down,  then 
take  a  piece  of  twine  which  is  called  the  warp,  and 
pass  three  turns  very  taut,  taking  a  hitch  with  the 
last  turn,  every  time  you  pass  the  warp  or  filling, 
then  take  the  knittles  which  are  up,  and  bring  them 
down,  and  the  ones  which  are  down  up,  hauling 
them  taut,  and  passing  your  warp,  every  time  over 
your  lower  knittles,  proceed  in  this  way  till  you  get 
almost  to  the  end,  reserving  enough  of  your  knittles 
to  finish  it  with,  leave  out  every  other  bight  of  the 
knittles  of  the  last  lay,  and  pass  the  warp  through 
the  bight  and  haul  them  taut  and  cut  them  off,  some 
have  a  becket  worked  in  the  end. 

Note.  Knittles  are  made  by  laying  rope  yarns  to- 
gether with  your  finger  and  thumb  against  the  twist 
of  the  yarn.  Snaking,  is  for  the  better  securing  of  a 
seizing,  which  is  passed  round  the  single  part  of  a 
rope  and  therefore  cannot  be  crossed.  It  is  done  by 
taking  the  end  part  of  the  seizing  under  and  over  the 
lower  and  upper  turns  of  the  seizing. 


49 


rope 
h  the 
three 
gand 

{See 


trnd  a 
;allant 
under 
le  end 
ndthe 

Yt. 

id  the 
inswer 


G-.TI'JLeH^. 


is  put 
^arn  or 
as  you 
J)l£tced 


f 


48  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

pointing  and  stop  it,  open  the  strands  out  into  yarns 
and  take  out  as  many  of  the  outside  yarns  as  you 
think  it  will  require  to  make  you  knittles,  by  split- 
ting your  yarns  and  making  one  knittle  out  of  every 
outside  yarn,  then  when  they  are  made  stop  them 
back  on  the  standing  part  of  the  rope,  then  form 
your  point,  with  the  rest  of  the  yarns,  by  trimming 
and  scraping  them  down  to  a  proper  size,  then  marl 
it  down  with  twine,  then  divide  your  knittles,  taking 
every  other  one  up,  and  every  other  one  down,  then 
take  a  piece  of  twine  which  is  called  the  warp,  and 
pass  three  turns  very  taut,  taking  a  hitch  with  the 
last  turn,  every  time  you  pass  the  warp  or  filling, 
then  take  the  knittles  which  are  up,  and  bring  them 
down,  and  the  ones  which  are  down  up,  hauling 
them  taut,  and  passing  your  warp,  every  time  over 
your  lower  knittles,  proceed  in  this  way  till  you  get 
almost  to  the  end,  reserving  enough  of  your  knittles 
to  finish  it  with,  leave  out  every  other  bight  of  the 
knittles  of  the  last  lay,  and  pass  the  warp  through 
the  bight  and  haul  them  taut  and  cut  them  off,  some 
have  a  becket  worked  in  the  end. 

Note.  Knittles  are  made  by  laying  rope  yarns  to- 
gether with  your  finger  and  thumb  against  the  twist 
of  the  yarn.  Snaking,  is  for  the  better  securing  of  a 
seizing,  which  is  passed  round  the  single  part  of  a 
rope  and  therefore  cannot  be  crossed.  It  is  done  by 
taking  the  end  part  of  the  seizing  rnder  and  over  the 
lower  and  upper  turns  of  the  seizing. 


'^]B.]TsnrT ,  imiE.^    ^m- 


O'n'XeH-lsLim 


48 

point] 
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last  t 
then 
down 
them 
your 
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the  bi 
have 
No 
gethft 
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takin 
lowei 


47.   To  make  a  Gromet. 

A  gromet  is  made  by  unlaying  a  strand  of  a  rope 
and  placing  one  part  over  the  other,  and  with  the 
long  end  follow  the  lay  till  it  forms  a  ring  with  three 
parts  of  the  strand  all  round,  finish  it  by  knotting  and 
sticking  your  ends  the  same  as  a  long  splice.  {See 
Plate.) 


48.  Pass  a  Rose  Lashing. 

It  is  used  in  lashing  a  strop  or  pudding  round  a 
mast  or  yard,  or  the  parrel  lashing  of  a  top  gallant 
yard,  the  lashing  passed  cross-ways  over  and  under 
one  eye,  then  over  and  under  the  other,  an^  the  end 
part,  afterwards  taking  in  a  circular  fortn  round  the 
crossing,  and  the  end  tucked  under  the  last  part. 

Note.  This  circular  part  is  done  to  expand  the 
end  in  the  room  of  cutting  it  off  so  as  it  will  answer 
again. 


49.   To  Weave  a  Sword  Mat, 

A  piece  of  wood  called  a  sword  is  used,  this  is  put 

alternately  between  the  parts  of  the  spun  yarn  or 

sennit,  stretched  over  two  round  iron  bolts  (as  you 

see  in  the   figure,)   the  warp  of  marline  is  placed 

5 


60  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

through  the  parts  which  the  sword  has  opened  and 
jambed  by  it  close  to  the  head,  a  piece  of  spun  yarn 
is  put  slack  through  the  same  division  at  the  oppo- 
site end  aijd  left  there,  the  sword  is  taken  out,  passed 
under  and  over  the  parts  as  before,  and  each  end  of 
the  warp  passed  and  jambed  taut,  the  piece  of  spun 
yarn  which  was  left  at  the  opposite  end  is  now  lifted 
up,  and  brings  the  parts  as  they  were  first  divided 
by  the  sword,  the  warp  is  passed  as  before,  and  so 
on  till  you  complete  the  mat. 


50.  A  Lashing  Cleat. 

Is  shaped  like  the  figure  in  the  plate,  having  a 
score  for  the  seizings  which  are  snaked,  and  a  groove 
cut  in  the  part  that  fits  next  to  the  shroud. 


51.  Blocks. 

A  SHELL  PIN   AND  SHEAVE. 

Blocks  are  of  different  shapes,  according  to  the 
purposes  they  are  used  for.  A  block  consists  of  a 
shell,  sheave,  and  pin,  and  from  the  number  of  these 
sheaves  it  derives  its  name,  viz :  a  block  with  one 
sheave  is  called  single,  with  two,  double,  and  with 
three  treble,  and  with  four  sheaves  it  is  called  a  four- 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  61 

fold  block.  The  shell  of  a  block  is  made  of  ash  and 
has  one  or  two  scores  cut  at  each  end  according  to 
its  size,  these  scores  are  for  the  purpose  of  admitting 
a  strop  which  goes  round  the  block,  and  in  its  centre 
is  a  hole  for  a  pin,  the  shell  is  hollow,  and  in'the 
inside,  is  placed  a  solid  wheel  called  a  sheave,  made 
of  lignum  vitae,  iron  or  brass,  in  the  centre  of  this 
sheave  is  a  hole  for  a  pin,  on  which  it  turns,  the 
lignum  vitge  sheave  is  buslied  with  brass  or  iron, 
round  the  circumference  of  the  sheave  is  a  groove, 
that  the  rope  which  goes  over  it  may  play  with  ease, 
the  sheave  is  placed  in  the  shell,  and  the.  pin  is  pui 
through  both  shell  and  sheave,  which  constitutes  a 
block. 


52.  Single  Block. 

What  is  termed  a  single  block,  has  but  one  sheave, 
but  sometimes  two  scores  on  the  outside  of  the  shell, 
if  it  is  intended  for  a  doi-ibie  strop,  single  blocks  are 
more  used  than  any  other  kind  on  board  of  a  ship. 


53.  Double  Block. 
Is  the  same  as  a  single,  with  one  more  sheave. 


54.    Treble  Block. 
Is  made  in  the  same  way  as  a  double,  with  one- 


52  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

more  sheave.  Treble  blocks  are  generally  used  as 
purchase  blocks,  and  stropped  in  the  manner  you 
see  in  the  plate. 


55.  A  Shoulder  Block, 

A  shoulder  block  is  the  same  as  a  single  block, 
excepting  that  it  has  a  kind  of  a  shoulder  or  projec- 
tion at  the  bottom  part  of  the  shell,  to  prevent  the 
rope  which  reeves  through  it  from  jambing  between 
the  block  and  the  yard  ;  those  blocks  are  mostly  used 
for  bumpkin  or  lift  blocks  on  a  lower  yard. 


66.  A  Fiddle  Block, 

Is  made  like  two  single  blocks  one  above  the 
other,  the  upper  one  being  the  largest  so  as  to  allow 
the  rope  which  is  rove  in  the  upper  sheaves  to  play 
clear  of  the  rope  in  the  under  one,  those  blocks  are 
used  in  places  where  there  is  not  room  for  a  double 
one,  or  in  places  where  a  double  one  would  be  liable 
to  split  by  not  canting  fair,  or  having  room  to  play. 


57.  A  Shoe  Block. 
Is   also  made    like  two  single  blocks,    but  the 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.'  53 

sheave  of  the  upper  one  lies  in  a  contrary  direction 
to  that  of  the  lower  one.  They  are  generally  used 
as  buntline  blocks  to  courses,  the  buntline  reeving  in 
the  upper  sheave,  and  the  whip  in  the  lower  one. 


58.  A  Sister  Block. 

Has  two  sheave  hol^s  one  above  the  other,  a  score 
for  a  seizing  between  the  two  sheaves  and  one  at 
each  end  for  the  same  purpose,  they  are  hollowed 
out  on  each  side  of  the  shell,  so  as  to  let  the  shroud 
lay  in  it,  those  blocks  are  used  as  top-sail  lift  blocks, 
and  seized  in  between  the  two  forward  shrouds  of 
the  top-mast  rigging,  above  the  futtock  stave,  the  lift 
reeves  in  the  upper  sheave  hole,  and  some  people 
reeve  the  top-sail  reef  tackle  in  the  lower  one. 


59.  A  Monkey  Block. 

It  is  made  with  a  saddle  to  nail  upon  the  yard  for 
the  buntlines  to  reeve  through.  Sometimes  it  has  a 
swivel  above  the  saddle  to  permit  the  block  to  turn 
round,  when  they  are  used  as  leech  line  blocks. 
These  blocks  are  all  got  out  of  fashion  now-a-days. 


60.    A  Dead  Eye. 

Is  a  large  round  piece  of  wood  with  three  holes  in 
5* 


54  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

it  (as  you  see  in  the  plate,)  and  a  groove  cut  round  it 
for  the  shroud  to  lie  in.  It  is  used  to  turn  in 
the  ends  of  shrouds  and  back-stays,  and  the  three 
holes  are  used  to  reeve  the  lanyard  through,  when 
setting  up  tne  shroud  or  backstay. 


61.  ABiiWsEye. 

Is  a  kind  of  a  thick  wooden  thimble  with  a  hole 
in  the  centre,  and  a  groove  cut  round  the  outside  for 
the  rope  or  seizing  to  lay  in. 


62.  A  Heart. 

Is  a  block  of  wood  with  a  large  hole  in  the  centre, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  are  four  or  five  scores,  and 
round  the  outside  is  a  groove  cut  to  admit  a  rope 
called  a  stay ;  there  are  other  hearts  called  collar 
hearts,  which  are  open  at  the  lower  ends,  opposite  to 
which  the  lanyard  is  passed.  This  heart  has  a  double 
score  cut  round  the  outside,  and  two  grooves  cut  on 
each  side  for  the  seizings  to  lay  in,  which  keeps  the 
collar  in  the  scores  of  the  heart. 


63.  A  Belaying  Pin  Rack. 
Is  a  piece  of  wood  which  has  a  number  of  holes 


65 

through  it,  in  which  belaying  pins  are  stuck,  on  the 
back  part  are  several  scores  for  the  shroud  to  lie  in, 
to  which  it  is  seized. 


64.  A  Ewphroe. 

Is  a  long  piece  of  wood  having  a  number  of  holes 
through  which  the  legs  of  the  crowfoot  is  rove,  a 
score  is  cut  round  it  to  admit  of  a  strap,  this  is  used 
for  the  ridge  of  an  awning. 


65.    A  Horn  Cleat 

Those  cleats  are  used  for  different  purposes,  some 
are  made  to  seize  on  to  the  shrouds,  those  are  called 
lashing  cleats,  others  are  made  to  nail  on  to  different 
parts  of  the  bulwarks,  they  are  of  different  shape  and 
size,  and  used  to  belay  various  ropes  to  in  all  parts 
of  the  ship. 


66.  A  Bee  Cleat. 

Is  a  piece  of  wood  scored  out  inside,  something 
like  the  letter  B,  and  rounded  off  outside,  they  are 
used  for  leading  a  rope  through,  or  for  keeping  it  in 
its  place,  on  the  masts,  bow-sprit,  <fcc. 


56  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

67.  A  Strop  for  a  Block, 

Strops  are  fitted  in  various  ways  according  to  the 
use  they  are  intended  for,  and  according  to  the  size 
of  the  block.  A  common  strop  is  fitted  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner,  you  first  cut  your  rope  once  and  a 
half  the  round  of  the  block,  then  get  it  on  a  stretch, 
worm  parcel  and  serve  as  near  to  the  end  as  possible, 
not  to  interfere  with  splicing,  then  take  and  splice 
the  ends  together  with  a  short  splice,  and  finish 
serving,  snug  up  to  the  splice,  stretch  it  and  cut  your 
ends  off,  or  you  may  serve  over  the  ends,  and  it  will 
appear  as  in  the  plate. 


68.  A  Tail  Block, 

Is  stropped  with  an  eye  splice,  snug  round  the 
block,  the  ends  are  stuck  but  once,  and  the  ends 
scraped  down,  and  served  over  with  spun  yarn,  you 
then  clap  on  a  stout  whipping  about  six  inches  from 
the  splice,  open  the  ends  out,  twist  them  into  foxes 
and  pleat  them  together  as  mentioned  for  gaskets,  or 
you  may  open  the  strands  out  and  marl  them  down 
selvagee  fashion,  tapering  it  a  little  towards  the  end 
of  the  tail. 

Note.  Those  used  for  jiggers  have  a  double  tail 
made  in  the  same  manner. 


-^ 


tq 


l\ 


57 


e  shell 

d,  and 

fcelled 

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The 

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strops 

ase  to 

them 


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le  top 


it  has 
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on  the 


C^.WIiewisJ} 


56  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

67,  A  (Strop  for  a  Block. 

Strops  are  fitted  in  various  ways  according  to  the 
use  they  are  intended  for,  and  according  to  the  size 
of  the  block.  A  common  strop  is  fitted  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner,  you  first  cut  your  rope  once  and  a 
half  the  round  of  the  block,  then  get  it  on  a  stretch, 
worm  parcel  and  serve  as  near  to  the  end  as  possible, 
not  to  interfere  with  splicing,  then  take  and  splice 
the  ends  together  with  a  short  splice,  and  finish 
serving,  snug  up  to  the  splice,  stretch  it  and  cut  your 
ends  off,  or  you  may  serve  over  the  ends,  and  it  will 
appear  as  in  the  plate. 


68.  A  Tail  Block, 

Is  stropped  with  an  eye  splice,  snug  round  the 
block,  the  ends  are  stuck  but  once,  and  the  ends 
scraped  down,  and  served  over  with  spun  yarn,  you 
then  clap  on  a  stout  whipping  about  six  inches  from 
the  splice,  open  the  ends  out,  twist  them  into  foxes 
and  pleat  them  together  as  mentioned  for  gaskets,  or 
you  may  open  the  strands  out  and  marl  them  down 
selvagee  fashion,  tapering  it  a  little  towards  the  end 
of  the  tail. 

Note.  Those  used  for  jiggers  have  a  double  tail 
magie  in  the  same  n^anner. 


MJa  O  COK^i?  ,  S 1MAT S     Up-. 


FTiATE  FT 


56 


Stro 
use  Ih' 
of  the 
lowin< 
halftl 
worm 
not  to 
the  61 
servin 
ends  ( 
appea 


Is 

block 
scrap 
then 
the  s] 
and  I 
you 
selva 
ofth. 


Nc 
ma(Je 


youNG  sailor's  assistant.  57 

69.  A  Purchase  Block. 

Is  double  strapped,  having  two  scores  in  the  shell 
for  that  purpose,  the  strap  is  wormed,  parcelled,  and 
served,  and  sometimes  only  wormed  and  parcelled 
and  spliced  together.  Then  it  is  doubled  so  as  to 
bring  the  splice  at  the  bottom  of  the  block.  The 
seizing  is  clapped  on  the  same  as  any  other,  the  only 
difference  is,  that  it  is  crossed  both  ways,  through 
the  double  parts  of  the  strop.  These  block  strops 
are  so  large  and  stiff,  that  it  requires  a  purchase  to 
set  them  into  the  score  of  the  block,  and  show  them 
their  proper  place. 


70.  A  Top  Block. 

Is  a  single  iron  bound  hook  block,  it  hooks  to  an 
eyebolt  in  the  cap,  and  is  used  for  reeving  the  top 
pendants  through,  when  swaying  up  top-masts. 

Note.  They  have  generally  got  a  brass  sheave. 


71.  A  Cat  Block. 

The  cat  block  is  three  fold,  and  iron  bound,  it  has 
got  a  large  iron  hook  attached  to  it,  for  the  purpose 
of  hooking  to  the  ring  of  the  anchor  when  catting  it. 

Note.  It  has  got  two  small  eye  bolts  one  on  the 


58  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

forward  side  of  the  shell,  to  fit  a  small  bridle  in, 
which  is  called  the  back  rope  bridle,  used  in  hooking 
the  cat. 


72.  A  Snatch  Block, 

Is  mostly  iron  bound  with  a  swivel  hook,  and 
an  iron  clasp  is  fitted  on  the  strap  with  a  hinge, 
which  goes  over  the  snatch  and  toggles  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  as  you  see  in  the  plate.  This  is  used  for 
placing  the  bight  of  a  hawser  or  large  rope  in  when 
warping  the  ship,  &c. 

Note.  There  are  several  difierent  improvements 
made  on  these  blocks. 


73.  A  Nun  Boy. 

These  are  shaped  as  you  see  in  the  plate,  a  kind 
of  a  cask,  which  is  large  in  the  middle  and  small  at 
both  ends,  and  hooped  close  with  iron  hoops,  and 
stropped  with  rope  well  served,  the  strops  of  those 
buoys,  are  cut  nine  times  the  length  of  the  buoy, 
which  will  make  the  slings  and  hoops,  the  slings 
have  an  eye  spliced  in  each  end,  the  hoops  are  rove 
through  those  eyes,  and  then  spliced  together,  and 
fitted  on  the  buoy  as  you  see  in  the  plate. 


59 

74.   To  Bend  a  Buoy  Rope. 

It  is  made  fast  with  a  clove  hitch  round  the  arms 
of  the  anchor,  close  up  to  the  crown,  and  the  end 
part  is  stopped  along  the  shank,  with  one  or  two 
stops. 

Note.  Some  are  fitted  with  a  running  eye,  and 
when  they  are  used  this  way,  the  running  eye  is  rove 
round  one  arm,  and  a  hitch  taken  over  the  other,  and 
seized  in  the  cross.  In  large  ships  they  are  fitted 
with  pendants  and  slip  buoy  ropes,  the  pendants 
have  a  large  thimble  spliced  into  the  end,  large 
enough  to  receive  a  stout  hawser,  in  case  you  should 
want  to  purchase  your  anchor  by  the  buoy  rope. 
The  size  for  the  slip  buoy  rope  is  one  third  the  size 
of  the  proper  buoy  rope. 


75.   To  Pudding  the  ring  of  an  Anchor. 

The  ring  of  the  anchor  is  well  tarred  and  parcel- 
led with  tarred  canvass,  then  a  number  of  len2[ths  of 
old  rope,  are  cut  three  times  the  diameter  of  the  ring, 
these  are  laid  on  the  ring,  and  stopped  by  a  tempo- 
rary seizing  in  the  middle,  then  they  are  placed  fair 
by  hand  round  the  rings  as  you  see  in  the  plate. 

When  a  turn  or  two  of  ratting  stuff  is  taken  round 
all  parts,  and  a  heaver  being  put  through  it,  it  is  hove 


60  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

well  round,  which  stretches  all  parts  snug  round  the 
ring.  After  it  is  all  hove  on  snug  put  on  your  seiz- 
ings, four  in  number  (as  you  see  in  the  plate.) 


76.   To  make  a  JacoVs  Ladder. 

Those  ladders  are  used  for  many  different  parts 
of  a  ship  of  war,  they  are  used  for  stern  ladders,  and 
the  swinging  booms  in  harbour,  rigging  ladders,  <fec. 
They  are  made  in  many  different  ways,  some  are 
made  selvagee  fashion,  and  covered,  others  are  made 
of  four  stranded  rope,  and  have  the  rounds  put 
through  between  the  strands  of  the  rope.  But  the 
most  common  way  of  making  those  ladders  is  to 
take  some  small  rope,  about  two  inch  stuff,  and  make 
two  long  straps  the  length  you  intend  to  make  the 
ladder,  and  splice  them  together  with  a  short  long 
splice,  your  straps  now  being  made,  get  them  on  a 
stretch  both  together,  and  see  if  they  bear  a  strain 
both  alike,  if  not  you  must  shorten  one  strap,  so  as 
to  make  both  alike.  Take  a  piece  of  chalk  and  mark 
them  off  where  you  intend  the  rounds  to  go,  about 
fifteen  inches  apart.  (The  rounds  are  pieces  ol 
round  wood,  about  two  inches  in  diameter,  with  a 
score  in  each  end  for  the  rope  to  lay  in,  made  the 
length  required,)  you  then  put  your  rounds  in,  be- 
tween both  parts  of  the  rope,  exactly  at  the  chalk 


b 


61 

mark,  having  got  them  all  placed,  commence  and 
seize  them  in  by  putting  on  a  snug  seizing  of  mar- 
line on  eacli  side  of  the  round,  you  may  parcel, 
leather,  or  serve  in  the  nips,  just  as  you  like. 


77.  Can  Hooks. 

Are  broad  flat  iron  hooks  in  the  eye  of  which  there 
is  a  thimble  inserted.  What  is  called  a  pair  of  can 
hooks,  is  a  piece  of  rope  four  or  five  feet  long,  or 
long  enough  to  span  a  cask  from  chime  to  chime, 
when  fitted  one  of  those  hooks  are  spliced  into  each 
end  of  this  rope,  it  is  then  got  on  a  stretch,  wormed, 
parcelled  and  served,  some  people  seize  a  thimble  in 
the  bight. 

Note.  Some  are  fitted  with  chain,  with  a  large 
iron  ring  in  the  middle.     {See  Plate.) 


78.   Hogshead  Slings. 

Is  a  piece  of  rope  about  five  fathoms  long  and  from 
five  to  six  inches  in  circumference,  with  a  large  thim- 
ble spliced  in  one  end,  and  the  other  end  well  whip- 
ped, those  are  used  to  shng  large  casks,  being  more 
secure  than  can  hooks,  to  sling  a  cask  with.   Tho^e 

slings,  you  take  and  reeve  it  through    the  thim- 

6 


62  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

ble  around  one  end  of  the  cask,  hauling  it  well 
taut,  then  take  the  end  part  of  the  slings,  round  the 
other  end  of  the  cask;  and  take  two  half  hitches 
round  the  standing  part,  and  it  is  done. 


79.  Barrel  Slings. 

Are  used  the  same  as  a  long  strap,  spliced  with  a 
short  splice,  and  made  long  enough  to  go  round  a 
barrel,  and  reeve  one  bight  through  the  other,  some 
are  made  long  enough  to  sling  two  or  three  barrels 
at  a  time. 

Note.  They  are  generally  made  of  three  inch 
rope. 


80.  A  Single  Whip. 

A  single  whip  is  the  smallest  and  most  simple  pur- 
chase that  is  rove.  It  is  made  by  reeving  a  rope 
through  a  single  block,  as  you  see  in  the  plate. 


81.  ii  Gun  Tackle  Purchase. 

Is  made  by  reeveing  a  rope  through  a  single  block, 
then  through  another  single  block,  then  make  the  end 


63 

fast  to  the  one  you  first  rove  it  through,  or  splice  it 
in  to  the  bottom  of  the  block  for  neatness.  {See 
Plate.) 

82.    A  Luff  Tackle  Purchase. 

Consists  of  a  double  and  single  block,  the  fall  is 
rove  through  one  of  the  sheave  holes  of  the  double 
block,  then  through  the  single  one,  through  the  dou- 
ble one  again,  and  the  end  makes  fast  to  the  single 
one,  with  a  becket  bend,  to  a  becket  in  the  bottom  of 
the  block.     (JSee  Plate.) 


83.  A  Top  Burton. 

Is  rove  in  the  same  manner  as  a  luff  tackle  pur- 
chase, the  only  difference  is  that  the  upper  block  of 
the  burton  is  a  fiddle  block,  and  the  luff  a  double 
one.     (See  Plate.) 


84.   Whip  and  Runner, 

If  a  rope  be  rove  through  a  single  block,  it  is  call- 
ed a  whip  as  before  mentioned,  and  if  the  fall  of  this 
whip  be  spliced  round  the  blocks  of  another  "whip, 
it  becomes  whip  on  whip,  or  whip  and  runner.  (See 
Plate.) 


64  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

85.  A  Runner  and  Tackle, 

Is  the  same  purchase  as  a  luff  tackle  applied  to  a 
runner,  which  is  a  large  rope  rove  through  a  single 
block,  with  a  hook  splicea  in  one  end.    (>S'ee  Plate.) 


86.  A  Twofold  Purchase.  » 

Consists  of  two  double  blocks,  the  fall  is  first  rove 
through  one  sheave  of  the  upper  block,  then  through 
one  of  the  lower  one,  then  through  the  upper  one 
again,  then  through  the  lower  one,  and  make  your 
end  fast  to  the  upper  block. 


87.  A  Threefold  Purchase, 

A  three  fold  purchase  is  rove  in  this  way,  the 
blocks  having  one  more  sheave,  only  that  you  com- 
mence to  reeve  your  fall  in  the  middle  sheave  first, 
instead  of  one  of  the  side  ones  which  brings  a  cross 
in  the  fall,  the  reason  of  it  being  rove  this  way  is 
that  the  heaviest  strain  comes  first  on  the  fall  part, 
and  if  it  was  rove  in  the  side  sheave  it  would  have  a 
tendency  to  cant  the  block  in  the  strop,  and  split  the 
shell  of  the  block  and  cut  the  fall,  but  when  it  is  in 
the  middle  sheave  it  draws  all  down  square  alike. 


I. 


ft4  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

85.  A  Runner  and  Tackle. 

Is  the  same  purchase  as  a  luff  tackle  applied  to  a 
runner,  which  is  a  large  rope  rove  through  a  single 
block,  with  a  hook  spliced  in  one  end.   {See  Plate.) 


86.  A  Twofold  Purchase.  » 

Consists  of  two  double  blocks,  the  fall  is  first  rove 
through  one  sheave  of  the  upper  block,  then  through 
one  of  the  lower  one,  then  through  the  upper  one 
again,  then  through  the  lower  one,  and  make  your 
end  fast  to  the  upper  block. 


87.  A  Threefold  Purchase. 

A  three  fold  purchase  is  rove  in  this  way,  the 
blocks  having  one  more  sheave,  only  that  you  com- 
mence to  reeve  your  full  in  the  middle  sheave  first, 
instead  of  one  of  the  side  ones  which  brings  a  cross 
in  the  fall,  the  reason  of  it  being  rove  this  way  is 
that  the  heaviest  strain  comes  first  on  the  fall  part, 
and  if  it  was  rove  in  the  side  sheave  it  would  have  a 
tendency  to  cant  the  block  in  the  strop,  and  split  the 
shell  of  the  block  and  cut  the  fall,  but  when  it  is  in 
the  middle  sheave  it  draws  all  down  square  alike. 


J'JjATE  vt. 


G.  [^^JjeH'U'I'ifh-. 


64 


Is  the 
runner, 
block,  \ 


Con^ 
through 
one  of  J. 

again, 
end  fa 


A 

block: 
menc 
instcc 
in  th< 
that  1 
and  i 
tend( 
shell 
ther 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  65 

88.  Names  of  Ropes, 

The  names  of  the  different  kinds  of  rope,  are  de- 
signated as  follows,  hawser  laid  and  cabled  laid  rope 
is  all  the  same  thing,  it  is  composed  of  nine  strands, 
each  strand  having  an  equal  number  of  yarns.  These 
nine  strands  are  laid  into  three,  by  twisting  three 
small  ones  into  one  large  one,  then  the  three  large 
are  laid  up,  or  twisted  together  left  handed,  which 
makes  the  nine  strands  ;  this  is  a  hauser  laid  rope. 
A  common  or  plain  rope  is  composed  of  three  strands 
of  an  equal  number  of  yarns  twisted  together.  Shroud 
laid  rope  is  made  in  the  same  way,  only  that  it  con- 
sists of  four  strands  in  the  room  of  three,  and  a  smaL 
strand  which  runs  through  the  middle,  which  is 
termed  the  heart  of  the  rope,  when  plain  laid  rope, 
is  laid  up  left  handed,  it  is  called  back  laid  rope  ; 
there  is  four  stranded  hawser  laid  rope  which  is 
used  for  stays,  ifcc. 


89.  Rig  Ship,  To  get  sheers  on  board. 

Take  in  a  sufficiency  of  ballast  to  steady  the  ship, 
shore  the  decks  from  the  skin  up,  and  particularly 
abreast  of  the  partners.  Sling  skids  up  and  down 
the  sides,  and  reeve  the  parbuckles,  bring  the  sheer 
legs  alongside,  with  their  small  ends  aft,  and  par- 


66 


KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 


buckle  them  on  board,  raise  one  leg  over  the  capstern, 
and  lay  the  heads  on  the  taffrail. 

Parbuckle  the  shoes  on  board,  and  place  them 
under  the  heels.  Square  the  heels,  placing  them 
nearly  amidships,  cross  the  heads  and  clap  on  the 
head  lashing  of  new  well  stretched  rope  {figure  ofS 
fashion)  similar  to  a  throat  seizing,  and  dog  down 
the  ends.  Lash  on  the  main  purchase  block,  so  that 
it  will  hang  plumb  under  the  cross.  Middle  a  couple 
of  hawsers,  and  clove  hitch  them  over  the  sheer 
heads,  having  two  ends  leading  forward,  and  two 
leading  abaft,  through  viol  blocks  toggled  to  the  bow 
and  stern  ports,  and  stout  luffs  clapped  on  them. 
Lash  the  small  purchase  block  on  the  after  fork  of 
the  sheers,  so  high  up,  that  the  falls  may  play  clear 
of  each  other,  and  a  girlline  block  above  all.  Lash 
hawsers  to  each  sheer  leg  about  one  third  down  for 
belly  guys,  and  a  cleat,  as  an  additional  security 
(belly  tackles  may  be  used.) 

Take  the  lower  purchase  blocks  forward,  lash 
them  securely  and  reeve  the  purchases  (with  the  fall 
part  through  the  middle  sheave  first)  and  reeve  girt- 
lines.  Lash  the  heels  temporally  to  the  shoes  and  spread 
them,  thus  tautening  the  head  lashing.  Have  for- 
ward and  after  heel  tackles,  hook  them  all  aft  and 
bouse  the  sheers  as  much  over  the  stern  as  possible. 
Hook  athwart-ship  tackle  to  the  heels,  and  bouse  it 
well  taut.     To  relieve  the  water  ways,  pass  a  bul- 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  67 

wark  lashing  round  the  heels  to  assist  the  heel 
tackles.  Lead  the  purchase  falls  to  the  capstern, 
take  in  the  slack  of  the  forward  guys,  have  hands 
to  attend  the  after  one. 

Note.  Skids  which  are  slung  up  and  down  the 
sides,  are  for  the  purpose  cf  keeping  the  sheer  legs 
clear  of  the  channels,  and  from  thence  to  the  plank 
shear. 

Mats  should  be  placed  over  the  quarter  gallerys 
to  prevent  injuring.  The  parbuckles  are  hawsers 
which  are  middled,  the  ends  of  which,  are  taken 
through  two  ports  which  are  five  or  six  ports  apart, 
from  outside  in,  down  over  the  rail,  under  the  sheer 
legs,  up  again  through  snatch  blocks  in  the  opposite 
water-way,  and  luffs  clapped  on  them.  The  counter 
parbuckles  are  used  to  ease  the  sheer  legs  down  on 
deck,  and  are  rove  through  the  gun  deck  ports,  mats 
should  be  in  wake  of  the  chafe,  where  the  parbuckle 
leads  over  the  rail,  or  up  through  the  gun  deck  ports. 

The  shoes  are  made  of  either  stout  oak  plank  or 
beam  timbers  of  pine,  and  long  enough  to  extend 
over  at  least  three  beams,  with  a  saucer  in  them  for 
the  heels  to  rest  in,  and  mortices  or  bolts  in  each  end 
to  lash  the  heels  to,  (be  particular  in  shoring  the 
decks,  under  the  shoes.)  In  spreading  the  heels,  care 
should  be  taken  that  the  extent  between  them  does 
not  exceed  the  breadth  of  beam,  abreast  ot  the  mizen 
partners. 


68  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

90.   To  Raise  the  Sheers. 

Man  the  capstern,  heave  round  steadily  and  bouse 
upon  the  guy  tackles  at  the  same  time.  When  nearly 
perpendicular,  avast  heaving,  getting  the  strain 
upon  the  forward  and  after  guys,  secure  the  guy  falls, 
hook  the  forward  heel  tackles,  forward,  and  haul  it 
well  taut  and  lash  the  heels  securely  to  the  shoes, 
come  up  purchase  and  bulwark  lashings,  wet  the 
decks  in  the  wake  of  the  shoes,  let  a  hand  attend  the 
forward  heel  tackle,  to  slack  as  they  haul  aft,  and 
transport  the  shears  to  just  forward  of  the  mizen 
partners,  where  make  all  fast.  The  heels  should  be 
over  a  beam  if  possible,  and  the  heads  should  be 
plumb  with  the  partners. 


91.   To  take  in  the  Mizen  Mast. 

Tow  the  mizen  mast  alongside  with  the  head  aft, 
and  the  garland  lashed  on  to  the  forward  part  of  the 
mast,  the  distance  from  the  tennon  to  just  above  the 
spar  deck  partners,  lash  a  pair  of  girtline  blocks  on 
the  mast  head,  and  reeve  the  girtlines,  bend  the  sheer 
head  girtline  to  the  mast  below  the  bibbs  to  cant  it. 
Overhaul  the  main  purchase  down  abaft,  thrust  the 
strop  through  the  eyes  of  the  garland  ;  toggle  it  and 
secure  the  toggle  by  a  back  lashing,  take  the  fall  to 
the  capstern,  and  heave  around,  when  the  heel  rises 


69 

near  the  rail,  hook  on  a  heel  tackle  to  ease  it  in  aboard, 
bouse  upon  the  girtline  and  get  the  mast  fair  for  low- 
ering, wipe  dry  the  tennon,  have  carpenters  below 
attending,  white  lead  the  step  and  tennon,  lower  away 
and  step  the  mast,  pass  a  couple  of  strops  around  the 
mast,  hook  the  double  block  of  the  pendant  tackles 
to  them,  the  single  ones  to  the  sides  and  haul  tauti 
wedge  the  mast  temporarily,  come  up  purchases,  man 
guy  and  heel  tackles,  wet  the  decks  and  transport 
the  sheers  forward  for  taking  in  the  main  mast,  ob- 
serving to  come  up  athwartship  tackles  in  the  wake  of 
all  obstructions,  take  the  mast-head  girtline  forward 
to  steady  the  mast. 

Note.  Garlands  are  made  of  new  stretched  rope, 
salvagee  fashion,  well  marled  together,  then  parcelled. 
They  are  then  laid  on  the  forward  part  of  a  mast, 
and  a  stout  lashing  clapt  on  over  all,  and  crossed  be- 
tween the  garland  and  mast.  The  reason  why  the 
mizen  mast  is  got  in  first,  is  because  the  breadth  of 
beam  is  less  aft  than  forward,  and  consequently  the 
head  lashing  becomes  tauter,  the  heels  being  spread 
more  as  they  go  forward,  moreover  if  the  mizen  mast 
was  taken  in  last,  the  bowsprit  must  be  got  in  first, 
thus  the  opportunity  of  securing  the  sheers  to  the 
foremast  head,  would  be  lost. 


92.   To  take  in  Main  and  Foremast. 
Proceed  as  in  getting  in  the  mizen  mast,  with  the 


70  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

exception  of  using  the  sma]l  purchase,  the  garland 
for  it  being  lashed  about  the  diameter  of  the  mast 
above  the  main  one. 

Note.  If  in  taking  in  either  of  tlie  masts,  the 
sheers  should  be  found  rather  short,  the  difficulty 
may  be  remedied  by  manning  the  forward  guy  falls 
and  making  them  perpendicular  to  the  deck,  if  only 
a  few  inches  are  required,  tliis  may  be  sufficient. 
Some  distance  may  also  be  saved  by  using  no  gar- 
land, and  let  the  purchase  block  be  lashed  to  the 
mast.  If  in  lowering,  there  should  still  be  a  difficul- 
ty, chocks  might  be  placed  on  the  kelson  until  the 
tennon  rested  on  them,  then  steady  the  mast  by  the 
small  purchase  and  sheer  head  girtlines,  while  the 
main  purchase  is  unlashed,  and  lashed  again  higher 
up  the  mast,  sufficient  to  step  it.  If  the  ship  has  a 
top  gallant  forecastle,  it  would  be  well  to  step  the 
mast  forward  of  the  sheer  legs,  for  the  brake  of  the 
forecastle  comes  abreast  of  the  partners,  and  in  a  case 
of  that  kind  it  would  be  well  to  take  in  the  foremast 
first. 


93.   To  take  in  the  Bowsprit. 

Transport  the  sheers  as  far  forward  as  possible,  or 
as  the  bows  will  permit,  send  a  hand  to  the  sheer 
head,  bend  on  the  girtlines  to  the  small  purchase 


YOUNG   SAILOR^S    ASSISTANT.  71 

block  and  light  it  up  and  uulash  it,  and  lash  it  again 
to  the  forward  fork  of  the  sheers,  pass  a  strop  around 
the  foremast  head,  and  hook  a  large  tackle  to  it  which 
carry  aft  and  set  well  taut,  lash  a  couple  of  large 
single  blocks  to  the  foremast  head,  middle  a  hawser 
and  clove  hitch  it  over  the  sheer  head,  take  the  ends 
through  the  blocks  at  the  mast  head  well  aft,  and 
take  a  turn,  hook  the  after  heel  tackles  forward,  and 
take  the  after  guys  aft,  pass  a  bulwark  lashing 
around  each  heel,  rake  the  sheers  over  the  bows  that 
the  main  purchase  may  hang  directly  over  the  gam- 
moning scuttle,  and  make  all  fast.  Overhaul  down 
the  purchases  and  toggle  them,  the  bowsprit  being 
brought  under  the  bows  with  the  head  forward,  and 
garlands  lashed  on,  the  main  one  a  little  more  than 
one  third  from  the  heel,  the  smaller  one,  between  the 
cap  and  bees,  having  guys  leading  from  the  bowsprit 
to  the  cat  heads,  and  a  couple  of  strops,  around  the 
heel  to  hook  the  bedding  tackle  to.  "Sway  away" 
attending  it  by  the  guys  aud  get  it  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, when  hook  bedding  tackles,  taken  from  the 
bitts  on  main  deck,  up  through  the  partners,  wipe 
the  tennon  dry,  whitelead  both  it  and  mortice, 
"Lower  away"  bouse  upon  the  bedding  tackles,  and 
bring  it  into  its  place,  come  up  purchases,  guys,  un- 
lash  garlands  and  proceed  to  dismantle  the  sheers. 
If  your  ship  has^a  top  gallant  forecastle,  you  cannot 
take  in  your  bowsprit  with  the  sheers,  on  account 
of  the  brake  of  the  forecastle. 


72  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

Note.  In  rigging  a  stage  under  the  bowsprit, 
make  use  of  two  small  spars,  such  as  top  gallant 
studding  sail  booms,  with  their  heels  resting  on  the 
head  rail,  and  their  heads  lashed  together  and  slung 
from  the  Bowsprit  end,  and  boards  laid  across,  one 
from  another.  The  gammoning  is  of  new  well 
stretched  rope,  generally  water  laid.  It  would  be 
best  to  get  a  caulkers  stage  or  a  camel  under  your 
bows  if  handy,  and  haul  it  lengthways  under  your 
bowsprit,  and  overhaul  a  stout  tackle  and  hook  on 
to  the  other  end  of  your  stage,  and  haul  well  taut. 
Send  the  men  on  the  stage  and  set  up  the  gammon- 
ing.* 


94.   To  Ris"  the  Foremast, 


"a 


White  lead  the  mast  head  in  the  wake  of  the 
trussel  trees,  overhaul  down  the  girtlines  bend  on  the 
trussel  trees,  and  sway  them  on  board,  take  out  the 
after  chock,  wipe  them  dry,  bend  the  girtlines  to  the 
forward  part,  and  stop  the  girtlines  to  the  after 
part,  bend  the  main  girtline  to  the  after  part 
also,  and  sway  away  having  a  steadying  line  for- 
ward to  keep  the  trussel  trees  from  catching  under 
the  bibbs  for  if  they  are  heavy,  one  man  aloft  cannot 
bear  them  off  from  under  the  bibbs,  when  above  the 
bibbs  send  a  hand  aloft  to  slip  the  stops  one,  at  a  time 

*  See  gammoning  the  bowsprit,  in  miscellaneous  articles. 


/• 


73 

so  as  they  won't  go  with  a  surge.  Lower  away,  bouse 
aft  on  the  after  girtlines,  and  get  the  trussel  trees  in 
their  places,  send  aloft  the  after  chock,  ship  and  bolt 
it,  tar  the  mast  head  in  the  wake  of  the  rigging,  over- 
haul down  the  girtlines  for  the  bolsters,  which  are 
tarred  and  parcelled,  sway  aloft  and  stop  them,  lash 
the  girtline  blocks  to  the  after  part  of  the  trussel 
trees,  and  have  hand  girtlines  and  stirrups  for  the 
man  aloft  to  stand  in  at  the  mast  head.  Take  pen- 
dant tackles  forward  to  steady  the  mast  for  rigging, 
overhaul  down  the  girtlines,  send  aloft  the  lower 
pendants  which  have  got  a  long  and  short  leg  fitted 
together  with  spans  so  as  to  form  a  square,  the  size 
of  the  mast  head,  the  long  leg  is  placed  abaft,  so  that 
in  case  the  fore  stay  is  shot  away,  the  pendant  tackle 
can  be  hooked  in  them  without  being  in  the  way  of 
the  fore  yard  in  bracing,  while  the  leg  being  abaft 
the  mast  affords  them  good  security.  The  rigging 
is  got  on  board  on  its  respective  sides,  and  its  eyes 
opened  out  and  bent  in  the  proper  way  for  going 
over,  measure  the  length  of  the  mast  head,  below  the 
eye  seizing  of  the  first  pair  of  starboard  shrouds  and 
rack  them  together.  Turn  a  toggle  in  one  end  of 
the  girdines,  let  the  other  be  bent  so  as  to  act  as  a 
down  haul,  and  thrust  the  toggle  between  the  legs  of 
the  shroud,  stop  the  girtlines  to  the  eye  seizing  and^ 
to  the  middle  of  the  eye,  sway  aloft  and  when  the 

stop  comes  to  the  block,  cut  it  and  bend  on  the  hand 

7 


n 

girtline,  sway  higher  and  cut  the  other  stop,  let  the 
man  at  the  mast  head,  bear  the  eyes  over,  lower 
away  and  beat  it  well  down  with  a  commander,  ob- 
serving to  have  the  eye  seizing  come  as  near  the 
centre  of  the  mast  head  as  possible,  and  get  over  the 
larboard  pair  in  the  same  way,  turn  in  the  dead-eyes 
with  the  lay.  reeve  lanyards  and  set  up  both  pair  of 
shrouds  at  the  same  time,  taking  care  to  give  the 
mast  its  proper  stay,  and  get  over  all  the  shrouds  af- 
ter the  same  manner,  and  set  them  up  as  the  two 
forward  pairs  were,  and  shift  the  girtline  to  the  mast 
head.  Overhaul  down  the  girtlines  forward  of  the 
mast,  bend  on  to  the  forestay,  sway  aloft,  bear  the  legs 
on  opposite  sides  of  mast  head,  and  lash  them  together 
above  the  eyes  of  the  rigging,  turn  in  the  heart  with 
the  lay  of  the  rope,  reeve  the  laniards  on  the  bight 
and  set  it  up,  next  get  aloft  the  spring  stay  in  the 
same  manner. 

Note.  The  trusseltrees,  might  be  got  over  without 
knocking  out  the  after  chocks,  by  ri^ning  up  a  der- 
rick abaft  the  mast,  well  lashed  abaft  below  the  bibbs, 
having  chocks  placed  between  it  and  the  mast,  suf- 
ficient to  admit  of  the  free  passage  of  the  after  chock 
of  the  trusseltrees,  they  are  sometimes  got  on,  before 
getting  in  the  mast,  but  they  then  bring  an  additional 
and  unnecessary  weight  upon  the  mast  head,  and 
moreover  in  lowering,  catch  over  the  shear  head. 


YOUNG  sailor's  assistant;  76 

95.    To  Rig  Main  and  Mizen  Mast. 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  fore 
mast,  the  main  mast  of  a  frigate  has  one  more  pair 
of  shrouds,  and  the  mizen  three  less  than  the  fore, 
there  is  only  one  pair  of  mizen  pendants,  which  go 
either  with  a  cut  splice  or  with  the  odd  shrouds. 

Note.  The  stays  are  lashed  above  the  eyes  of  the 
rigging  at  first,  so  as  to  give  them  a  close  fit  down 
about  the  mast  head,  and  shifted  down  afterwards. 


96.    To  Get  the  Tops  over. 

Overhaul  the  girtlines  for  the  cross  trees,  white 
lead  the  scores  in  the  trusseltrees,  and  ship  them,  fit 
a  pair  of  span  blocks  over  the  mast  head,  through 
them  reeve  stout  girtlines,  overhaul  them  down  abaft 
the  riofgiiig  alongside  and  bend  them  on  to  the  top 
and  hitch  them  to  the  pigeon  holes  and  bend  the 
main  girtline  to  the  after  rim  of  the  top.  "Sway 
away"  and  ease  them  in  board,  now  pass  the  girtlines 
properly,  by  taking  them  under  the  forward  part  of 
the  top  up  through  the  girtline  holes,  around  the 
wing  of  the  top  and  hitch  them  to  their  own  parts, 
stop  them  to  the  pigeon  hole  and  bend  the  main 
girtlines  to  the  after  part  of  the  fore  top.  "Sway 
away,"  guying  it  clear  of  trusseltrees  by  the  main 
girtlines,  and  bend  a  tripping  line  to  the  pigeon  hole. 


76  KEDQE    ANCHOR,   OR 

leading  from  the  bowsprit  end ;  when  high  enough 
sHp  the  stops,  cant  over  by  the  tripping  line,  lower 
handsomely,  ship  it  foir  and  toggle  it.  The  main  top 
is  guyed  clear  by  the  mizen  girtlines,  and  is  canted 
by  a  tripping  line  from  the  foremast  head,  the  mizen 
top  has  guys  from  the  taffrail  and  a  tripping  line 
from  the  main  mast  head. 

Note.  In  cold  weather,  it  would  be  best  to  get  the 
top  over  before  rigging, the  mast,  in  order  to  give  the 
inen  more  security,  and  then  a  derrick  rigged  on  the 
top  would  be  the  best  way  to  get  the  rigging  over 
in  a  heavy  ship. 


97.     To  swifter  m  the  Lower  Rigging. 

Lash  capstern  bars  to  the  rigging  three  fourths  up, 
having  parcelling  in  the  wake,  and  clap  a  tail  block 
around  each  shroud  and  the  bars,  middle  the  swifter 
and  reeve  the  ends  through  the  middle  blocks,  on 
each  side,  then  through  the  others  alternately,  one 
leading  forward,  the  other  aft,  and  taking  them 
through  leading  blocks  in  the  opposite  water  ways. 
Measure  one  third  of  the  breadth  of  the  top,  and 
lay  it  off  on  the  forward  shroud  on  each  side  from 
the  upper  part  of  the  trusseltrees  down,  and  then 
seize  on  the  futtock  staffs  which  are  of  iron,  and  well 
leathered.     Seize  on  a  catharpin  leg  on  each  side, 


77 

and  swifter  the  rigging  until  the  eye  of  the  other  end 
meet  the  opposite  side,  then  seize  all  on,  come  up  the 
swifter,  send  down  the  bars  and  blocks,  (the  forward 
and  after  shronds  are  not  swiftered  in,)  ship  fnttock 
plates,  hook  and  set  up  futtock  shrouds,  ship  toprail 
and  reeve  fancy  lines.  Above  tlie  fore  catharpin  legs, 
seize  ou  collar  and  bull's  eye  for  the  main  topmast 
spring  stay  to  reeve  through.  The  collars  for  the 
main  and  mizen  topmast  stays  are  above  the  eyes  of 
the  fore  and  main  rigging. 


98.     To  set  up  Loioer  Rigging. 

Unhook  the  pendant  tackles  from  the  strops  below 
the  bibbs  of  the  mast,  and  hook  them  to  the  runner 
pendants;  clap  selvages  on  the  rigging,  having  old 
canvass  in  the  wake,  and  hook  the  single  blocks  of 
the  luflTs  to  them,  catspaw  or  toggle  the  lanyard  to  the 
double  blocks,  overhaul  the  pendant  tackles  and 
black  wall  the  ends  of  the  luff  tackles  to  the  lower 
blocks.  Set  up  the  rigging  for  a  full  due,  observing 
the  same  precautions  as  vvlien  it  was  first  set  up. 
The  end  of  the  lanyard  is  backed  around  one  part  of 
the  shroud,  above  the  dead  eye,  jammed  well  taut, 
with  the  pendant  tackles,  then  expended  round  both 
parts  and  stopped  to  the  shrouds.  Now  seize  on  the 
shear  poles,  cap  and  square  the  ends  and  seizings, 
and  come  up  the  lower  stays,  settle  the  eyes  down 


78  KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

over  the  eyes  of  the  rigging,  and  set  them  up  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  shrouds,  except  reeving  the  lan- 
yard upon  the  bight.  Spar  and  rattle  the  rigging. 
The  mast  being  stayed,  they  may  be  permanently 
wedged  and  coated. 

Note.  In  setting  up  the  rigging  at  first,  the  lan- 
yards are  only  rove  double  and  well  greased  ;  the 
knot  of  the  lanyard  should  be  inside  on  the  end  part 
of  the  shroud,  the  dead  eyes  are  at  first  turned  in 
with  the  shroud.  In  setting  up  for  a  full  due,  turn 
in  the  dead  eye  properly,  and  reeve  the  lanyards  full. 
The  reason  for  setting  the  eyes  of  the  stays  down  over 
the  eyes  of  the  rigging,  is  to  clear  them  of  the  top- 
mast fid  and  foot  of  the  topsail. 


99.     To  get  on  hoard  the  Topmast. 

Overhaul  the  girtline  and  send  up  lower  cap  shores, 
top  blocks  and  fids,  together  with  a  large  single  block, 
which  lash  over  the  eyes  of  the  rigging,  with  a  lash- 
ing long  enough  to  allow  (or  you  can  lash  it  half 
mast  head  high,  which  is  the  best  way,)  the  block  to 
hang:  abreast  the  bibbs  of  the  mast.  Throuo:h  this 
block  reeve  a  large  hawser,  leading  the  end  down 
forward  of  the  rigging,  through  the  upper  sheave 
hole  in  the  heel  of  the  topmast,  and  clove  hitch  it 
round  the  mast  head  and  the  other  part,  rack  both 
parts  together  in  several  places,  man  the  other  end 


79 

and  sway  away ;  when  hi^h  enough,  bend  on  a  rope 
to  ease  it  in  board,  place  the  round  hole  in  the  lower 
cap  over  the  square  hole  in  the  trusseltrees,  and  point 
the  topmast  through  it.  If  the  topmast  is  too  long  to 
point,  lower  the  heel  down  the  scuttle  forward  the 
mast,  and  then  point  it. 

When  the  head  passes  through  the  round  hole  in 
the  cap,  pass  a  lashing  from  the  bolts  on  one  side 
across  the  mast  head  to  the  bolts  on  the  other  side, 
take  a  couple  of  stout  strops  through  the  fid  hole, 
hook  the  pendant  tackles  on  to  them,  and  haul  them 
taut.  Come  up  the  hawser  and  un reeve  it  from  the 
sheave  hole,  get  a  hawser  in  the  fid  hole  and  have  a 
slew  rope  to  it,  whitelead  the  masthead,  also  the  ends 
of  the  shore  and  sway  up  ;  when  high  enough,  slew 
fair,  ship  the  cap  and  shore  it,  beat  it  down  in  its 
place,  tack  a  sheet  of  lead  over  the  lower  mast  head 
to  protect  it  from  the  weather,  hook  the  top  blocks, 
round  up,  reeve  and  hitch  the  top  pendants  and  hook 
the  top  tackles,  sway  the  mast  up  a  few  feet  above 
the  lower  cap,  come  up  the  pendant  tackles,  take  the 
heaver  and  strops  out  of  the  fid  hole  of  the  topmast. 


100.     To  rig  the  Topmast, 
Pit  the  span  blocks  over  the  mast  head,  reeve  the 
girtlines  and  overhaul  them  down  abaft  for  the  cross- 
trees,  bend  on  and  sway  them  in  board,  place  them 


80  HEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

abaft  their  respective  masts,  with  the  forward  part 
uppermost ;  bend  the  girtlines  to  the  afterpart,  and 
stop  them  to  the  forward  part,  having  a  guy  from  the 
deck  to  clear  them  of  the  tops  as  tliey  go  aloft,  "sway 
away,"  rest  them  on  the  lower  cap  abaft  the  topmast, 
passing  stout  lashings  through  the  quarter  bolts  in 
the  cap  and  around  the  afterhorns  of  the  crosstrees, 
cast  off  the  girtlines  and  take  off  the  span  blocl^s, 
whitelead  the  masthead,  in  the  wake  of  the  crosstrees, 
lower  away  the  mast,  and  as  it  goes  down,  bear  over 
the  round  hole  in  the  cap,  sway  again  and  beat  them 
down  in  their  places ;  tar  the  masthead  in  the  wake 
of  the  rigging,  send  aloft  and  stop  the  bolsters,  get 
girtlines  on  the  horns  of  the  crosstrees,  sway  aloft, 
place  the  ginn  span,  and  hook  the  ginns  which  mouse. 
Get  over  the  burton  pendants,  hook  the  top  burtons 
and  set  them  taut  to  a  strop  passed  around  oneof  th« 
topmast  dead  eyes,  hitch  a  small  hawser,  or  a  stout 
rope  around  the  hounds  of  the  topmast,  which  set 
taut  forward.  Man  the  top  tackles,  sway  aloft,  and 
fid  the  topmasts.  Now  rig  the  mast  head  by  getting 
over  the  starboard  and  larboard  shrouds  alternately, 
breast  back  stays,  standing  back  stays,  fore  and  aft 
and  jib  stays,  turn  in  the  dead  eyes,  reeve  the  lan- 
yards, and  set  up  the  rigging  the  same  as  the  lower 
rigging  was,  reeve  and  set  up  the  stays  also,  in  the 
same  way,  stay  the  mast  by  the  fore  and  aft  stays  ; 
now  fit  over  the  lower  mast  head  slings  for  the  lower 


81 

yards,  and  the  fire  slings,  which  are  fitted  over  the 
collars. 

Note.  The  topmasts  are  fidded  before  rigging, 
to  avoid  the  greater  strain  upon  the  top  tackles.  If 
a  topmast  has  only  one  sheave  (like  a  mizen  topmast,) 
it  is  a  good  precaution  to  reeve  a  hawser  through  the 
fid  hole,  haul  it  taut  as  the  mast  goes  aloft,  un reeving 
it  only  when  the  mast  is  high  enough  for  Adding. 
As  the  lee  breast  back  stays  bear  play,  they  are  put 
on  before  the  standing  ones,  so  that  the  latter  ones 
may  keep  them  steady  in  their  places.  The  topmast 
spring  stay  may  either  have  their  collars  dipped 
through  those  of  the  standing  stays,  or  they  may  go 
above  the  masthead  first.  The  rigging  may  be  set  up 
with  burtons  or  a  Spanish  windlass.  There  is  no 
mizen  topmast  spring  stay. 


101.   2o  get  onboard  and  rig  the  Jibhoom. 

Hoist  the  boom  on  board  by  the  hawser  which 
was  left  at  the  fore  mast  head,  when  getting  on  board 
the  fore  topmast,  run  the  end  out  on  the  bowsprit, 
pointing  it  through  the  stay  collars  and  bowsprit  cap, 
reeve  the  heel  rope  and  sway  out  a  foot  or  two  be- 
yond the  cap,  put  on  the  traveller,  reeve  the  jib  stay 
through  the  hanks,  through  the  traveller,  then 
through  the  inner  sheave  hole  in  the  boom  end,  and 
turn  in  a  double  block  in  the  inner  end;  reeve  the 


82  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

lanyard  through  this  and  a  single  block  bolted  to  the 
bows,  to  the  traveller  seize  the  jib,  downhaul  blocks 
and  travelling  guys,  tar  tlie  boom  end,  put  a  grummet 
over,  to  which  seize  the  fore  top  gallant  bowline 
blocks.  Next  the  foot  ropes,  which  set  up  to  bowsprit 
cap,  next  the  standing  guys,  and  lastly  the  jib  mar- 
tingale block.  Ship  the  wytlie  for  the  flying  jibboora, 
get  gobb  ropes  on  the  dolphin  striker,  reeve  the  jib 
martingale,  man  the  heel  rope  and  run  out,  pass  the 
heel  lashing,  set  up  the  martingale  and  jib  stays. 


102.    To  Swifter  in  Top  Mast  Rigging. 

Do  this  similar  to  the  lower  ringing,  seize  the  fut- 
tock  staffs  and  calharpin  legs,  square  the  dead  eyes 
of  the  rigging,  set  it  up  for  a  full  due,  seize  on  the 
sheer  poles,  cap  and  square  the  end  seizings,  spar 
and  rattle  it  down. 

Note.  The  fnttock  staffs  are  seized  on  the  inside 
of  the  rigging,  to  counteract  the  effect  of  the  top 
gallant  rigging,  which  leads  over  them.  The  cathar- 
pins  go  around  the  topmast,  both  ends  setting  up  on 
the  same  side. 


103.   To  rig  the  Sprit  sail  Yard. 

Sway  it  on  board  by  the  hawser  at  the  fore  mas 
head,  and  get  it  fore  and  aft  on  the  larboard  side  of 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  83 

the  forecastle,  with  the  starboard  yard  arm  forward, 
middle  the  yard,  parcel  and  leather  the  slinks,  fit  the 
tye,  seize  on  the  parrel  straps  for  tne  flying  jib 
sheets,  jib  and  flying  jib  guys,  tar  the  yard  arms,  put 
on  the  grummet  and  foot  ropts,  which  reeve  through 
stirrups  nailed  on  the  yard  at  equal  distances,  and  set 
up  to  the  opposite  quarters  of  the  yard,  seize  on 
blocks  for  the  forward  lower  boom  guys,  spritsail 
brace  "blocks  and  lifts,  reeve  the  lifts  and  braces, 
bending  on  ropes  ends  if  they  are  not  of  sufficient 
length,  the  starboard  one  being  taken  under  the  bow- 
sprit clear  of  every  thing,  clap  a  block  on  the  fore 
top  mast  spring  stay,  reeve  a  hawser  for  a  yard  rope, 
bend  it  to  the  slings  of  the  yard,  and  stop  it  out  to 
the  yard  arm,  hook  a  tackle  to  the  bowsprit  end,  and 
to  the  slings  to  assist  in  getting  it  out,  sway  out, 
take  through  the  slack  of  the  lifts  and  braces,  slip 
the  stops  and  get  the  yard  in  its  proper  place,  steady 
it,  hook  the  tye,  pass  the  parrel  lashing,  and  square 
it,  unreeve  the  hawser,  get  the  block  off  the  spring 
stay  and  tackle  from  the  bowsprit  end,  reeve  the  jib 
guys  through  their  thimbles  on  the  spritsail  yard, 
turn  in  dead  eyes  or  cleats,  and  set  them  up  to  others 
on  the  bows. 


104.   To  Get  on  board  Rig  and  Send  aloft   Top 
Gallant  and  Royal  Masts. 

Overhaul  the  girtlines,  send  aloft  topmast   cap, 


84  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

and  shore  together  with  a  small  spar  to  ship  the  cap 
with,  place  the  round  hole  of  the  cap  over  the  square 
of  the  cross  trees,  get  the  girtline  on  the  heel  of  the 
small  spar,  point  it  through  the  cap  and  lash  them 
together,  white  lead  the  t'^nnor  of  the  mast  and  the 
ends  of  the  shore,  sway  aloft,  ship  the  cap  and  shore, 
then  beat  the  former  down  in  its  place,  hook  the  top 
gallant  top  blocks,  round  up  and  reeve  the  top  gal- 
lant mast  rope,  the  top  gallant  rigging  is  fitted  on  a 
sheet  iron  cylinder  attached  to  the  jack  cross  trees 
(by  an  order  from  the  Navy  Commissioners)  leather- 
ed and  painted  on  the  inside,  and  tarred  on  the  out- 
side, put  on  the  grummets  and  strops  for  the  main 
royal  stay  to  reeve  through,  then  put  on  the  top  gal- 
lant and  flying  jib  stays,  starboard  and  larboard 
shrouds,  breast  and  standing  back  stays,  and  secure 
them  over  the  top  of  the  cylinder,  overhaul  the  girt- 
lines,  bend  them  on  the  rigging,  around  all  parts 
about  the  length  of  the  mast  head  below  the  Jack, 
and  a  good  stout  stop  through  the  cylinder,  sway 
aloft,  cut  the  stop  when  high  enough  and  place  it 
over  the  topmast  cap,  having  the  hole  in  the  cylinder 
directly  over  the  round  hole  in  the  cap,  and  lash  it 
there,  cast  off  and  unreeve  the  girtlines,  and  reeve 
the  top  gallant  shrouds  through  the  holes  in  the  cor- 
ners of  the  cross  trees,  over  the  topmast  futtock 
"staffs,  down  in  the  top,  where  turn  in  the  dead  eyes 
and  reeve  the  lanyards.     The  royal  rigging  is  rove 


85 

through  the  jacks,  over  the  top  gallant  futtock  staves, 
down  in  topmast  crosstress,  where  turned  in  (in  some 
ships  the  royal  rigging  comes  straight  from  the 
jacks,  down  into  the  top,  and  set  up  with  a  gun 
tackle  purchase,   the  same  as  a  breast  back  stay) 
thimbles  are  spliced  in  and  lanyards.  Overhaul  the 
mast  rope  down  through  the  trusseltrees  of  the  top- 
mast, and  reeve  it  through  the  fid  hole  in  the  top  gal- 
lant mast,  hitch  it  to  its  own  part  and  stop  it  along 
the  top  gallant  and  royal  pole,  at  different  distances  ; 
"  sway,"  ease  it  in  board,  guy  it  clear  as  it  goes  aloft, 
point  it  fair  and  sway  the  head  a  foot  or  two  above 
the  rigging.    White  lead  the  royal  mast  head,  send 
aloft  the  truck,  ship  it,  reeve  the  signal  halyards  and 
attach  the  conductor ;  "  sway  higher,"  get  the  royal 
rigging    down    in  its  place,    also    painting  above 
the  eyes  as  before,  now  light  up  the  rigging  and'fid 
the  top  gallant  mast,  set  up  the  top  gallant  rigging  in 
the  top  and  the  royal  rigging  in  the  cross  trees  or 
the  top,  steadying  the  mast  by  the  fore  and  aft  stays 
and  back  stays,  tack  a  sheet  of  lead  over  the  topmast 
head,  to  keep  the  weather  out. 


105.    To  Get  on  hoard  and  Rig  the  Flying  Jib-       1 
boom. 
To  get  on  board  and  rig  the  flying  jibboom.  Swfay 

it  on  board  and  get  it  on  the  larboard  side  of  the 

8 


86  KEDGE   ANCHOR,   OR 

forecastle,  clap  on  a  tail  block  on  the  jib  stay,  close 
down  to  the  boom  and  through  it  reeve  a  heel  rope 
which  take  through  the  sheave  hole  in  the  heel  of 
the  flying  jibboom,  out  again  and  hitch  it  to  its  end, 
rack  both  parts  together,  and  make  a  rope  fast  to  the 
heel,  to  serve  as  a  guy,  sway  out  the  boom,  assisting 
it  with  slip  ropes,  point  the  end  through  the  withe, 
and  hitch  the  end  of  the  heel  rope  to  the  jibboom 
end.  Cut  the  stop  and  rig  the  boom  out  a  foot  or 
two.  Tar  the  end,  put  on  a  grummet  and  foot  ropes, 
guys  and  martingale,  reeve  the  martingale,  flying 
jib  and  royal  stays,  man  the  heel  rope,  rig  out  the 
boom,  pass  the  heel  and  belly  lashings,  set  up  the 
martingale,  then  stay  the  fore  top  gallant  and  royal 
mast,  fore  and  aft,  by  the  stays  and  back  stays, 
reeve  the  flying  jib  guys,  turn  in  thimbles  and  set 
them  up. 


106.   To  Get  on  hoard  and  Rig  the  Topsail  Yards, 

Send  aloft  and  lash  a  large  single  block  to  the 
topmast  head,  round  up  and  reeve  a  hawser  through 
it,  overhaul  it  down  forward,  hitch  it  to  the  slings  of 
the  yard,  and  stop  it  along  the  yard  arm,  get  it  fore 
and  aft  in  the  gangway  on  chocks,  cast  ofi"  the  hawser, 
middle  the  yard,  leather  and  tar  the  slings,  lash  on 
the  tye  blocks,  then  the  parrel,  splice  in  the  parrel 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  87 

lashing,  seize  the  quarter  blocks  (with  a  grummet 
around  their  strops  to  prevent  spreading,)  and  then 
the  clewline  blocks,  rolling  tackle  and  burton  strops, 
tar  the  yard  arms,  put  on  the  grummets,  jackstays 
(which  reeve  through  the  staples,  and  set  up  together 
in  the  slings)  head  earing  strops,  foot  ropes  which 
reeve  through  stirrups  nailed  to  the  yard  at  equal 
distances,  and  set  up  to  the  opposite  quarters,  brace 
blocks  and  eye  of  single  lifts,  seize  on  the  flemish 
horses,  jewel  blocks,  see  the  boom  irons  on,  reeve  the 
braces,  and  coil  the  upper  lift  on  the  upper  yard 
arm,  the  lower  one  in  the  slings  of  the  yard,  a  small 
cleat  or  saddle,  inside  of  the  sheave  hole,  about  two 
feet,  on  each  yard  arm,  to  keep  the  top  gallant  sheets 
clear  of  the  yard. 

Note.  There  are  no  jewel  blocks  on  the  mizen 
topsail  yard. 


107.   To  Cross  the  Topsail  Yards. 

Bend  on  the  hawser  and  hook  the  top  burtons  to 
assist  in  crossing,  (it  is  preferable  to  use  a  whip  pur- 
chase with  a  hawser  and  jackblock  in  crossing  top- 
sail yards)  get  strops  round  the  quarter  and  hook 
the  burtons,  take  ^  turn  with  the  parrel  lashing, 
reeve"  the  lifts,  slip  the  stops  and  cross  the  yard, 
steady  it  with  the  lifts  and  braces,  reeve  the  tyes, 


88  KEDGE  ANCHOR,   OR 

turn  in  the  fly  blocks,  reeve  and  haul  taut  the  topsail 
halyards,  pass  the  parrel  lashing  properly,  and  square 
the  yard. 


108.   7b  Get  on  hoard  and  Rig  Lower  Yards. 

Overhaul  the  hawser  from  the  lower  mast  head, 
bend  on  to  the  slings  of  the  yard,  and  get  them  nearly 
up  and  down,  clap  selvages  on  the  quarters  and  hook 
the  pendant  tackles  to  them,  as  it  comes  on  board, 
cut  the  stops,  easing  away  on  the  pendant  tackle, 
and  bousing  on  the  other,  until  the  yard  is  athwart 
ship,  place  chocks  in  the  hammock  nettings,  rest  the 
yard  on  them,  slue  them  fair  and  lash  them,  come 
up  tackles,  cast  off  the  hawsers  and  place  a  spar 
under  the  middle  of  the  yard  to  prevent  its  spring, 
ing,  measure  the  yard,  tar  and  leather  the  slings,  fit 
a  saddle  for  the  D.  thimble,  which  lash  on  with  a 
piece  of  well  stretched  rope,  heaving  each  turn  taut 
with  a  Spanish  windlass,  and  fitting  the  score  of  the 
D.  thimblCj  cover  all  with  leather  and  fit  the  strops 
for  the  preventer  slings,  fit  on  truss  strops,  pendants, 
qudrter  and  clue  garnet  blocks  having  a  stout  grum- 
met around  the  strops  of  the  quarter  blocks,  to  pre- 
vent spreading,  to  the  middle  of  this  grummet  seize 
a  slab  line  block,  fit  the  rolling  tackle,  burton  and 
quarter  lift  strops,  tar  the  yard  arms  and  (seize  the 


YOUN«  sailor's  assistant!  89 

leech  line  blocks  to  the  jack  stay  with  a  leg  long 
enough  to  allow  the  block  sufficient  play  to  brace  up) 
put  on  head  earing  strops,  foot  ropes,  yard  tackle 
strops,  lift  and  brace  blocks. 

Note.  A  piece  of  well  stretched  rope  is  thought 
to  be  preferable  to  a  strand  in  lashing  on  a  D  thim- 
ble, as  it  cannot  absorb  the  water  so  freely. 

The  cross  jack  yards  has  no  jack  stay,  head  ear- 
ings  or  yard  tackle  strops,  and  the  brace  blocks  in- 
stead of  going  over  the  yard  arm  are  put  on  some 
distance  inside  of  the  sheave  hole  for  the  mizen  top- 
sail sheets. 


109.      To  Get  aloft  the  Lower  Yards, 

Send  aloft  and  lash  the  jeer  blocks,  reeve  the  pen- 
dants and  falls,  hitch  the  pendants  around  the  quar- 
ters of  the  yard,  splice  in  the  lanyard  of  the  D  thim- 
ble, and  take  the  yard  tackles  forward,  to  keep  the 
yard  clear  of  the  mast,  reeve  the  lifts  and  braces, 
man  the  lifts  and  jeer  falls ;  "swtiy  away,"  and  when 
the  yard  comes  abreast  of  the  futtock  staves,  pass  the 
lashing  of  the  D  thimble,  parcel  it  well,  and  leather 
over  all,  frap  all  parts  together,  and  cover  all  with 
canvass,  reeve  the  truss  pendants,  turn  in  the  blocks, 
reeve  the  falls,  haul  taut  the  trusses,  square  the  yard 
by  the  lifts  and  braces. 

8* 


90  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

Note.  The  cross  jack  yard  may  be  got  aloft  by 
the  pendant  tackles,  hooked  to  the  lower  cap,  or 
through  a  strop  passed  through  the  pigeon  hole  of 
the  top,  the  mast  head  slings  have  a  back  lashing 
passed  abaft  the  mast  head,  half  way  between  the 
cap  and  top. 


110.   To    Get  on  hoard  the  Spanker  Boom  and 
Gaff. 

The  spanker  boom,  trysail  mast  and  gaff,  may  be 
got  on  board  by  the  yard  and  stay  tackle.  Put  the 
hoops  on  the  trysail  mast,  and  stop  them  ;  sway 
away  by  a  pendant  tackle,  point  the  mast  head  through 
the  after  chock  of  the  trusseltrees,  stop  and  lash  its 
head  to  the  mizen  mast  head,  leather  the  boom  in 
the  wake  of  the  crutch,  seize  on  sheet  blocks  and 
reeve  the  sheets,  tar  the  boom,  put  over  the  foot 
ropes,  which  set  up,  just  out  outside  of  the  taffrail  and 
boom  guys,  which  go  with  a  gun  tackle  purchase  to 
the  quarters,  hook  the  topping  lift  to  an  iron  span 
around  the  boom,  lea3  them  up  through  cheek  blocks 
bolted  to  the  mizen  bibbs,  and  set  up  in  the  channel 
with  a  luff  purchase,  ship  and  key  the  boom,  seize 
on  a  cleat  for  theouthaulers,to  belay  to,  then  leather 
the  jaws  of  the  gaff,  fit  throat  and  peak  halyard 
blocks,  brail  blocks,  vangs  and  blocks,  reeve  throat 


and  peak  halyards,  hoist  up   the  gaff,  and  haul  taut 
the  vangs. 

Note.  The  spencer  gaff  may  be  rigged  nearly  the 
same  way. 


111.    To    Get   on  hoard  and  Rig    Top    Gallant 
Yards, 

They  are  got  on  board,  like  the  topsail  yards. 
Leather  the  slings,  seize  on  D.  thimble,  parrel  and 
quarter  blocks,  rolling  tackle  strops,  tar  the  yard  arms, 
put  on  the  jack  stays,  head  earing  strops,  foot  ropes, 
braces  and  lifts ;  nail  on  the  stirrups^  seize  on  the 
foot  ropes  and  set  up  the  jack  stays,  fit  the  yard 
ropes,  having  lizards  and  tripping  lines,  with  a  grum- 
met to  go  round  the  yard  rope  ;  when  going  aloft, 
bend  on  the  yard  rope,  and  stop  the  top  gallant  yard 
in  the  rigging,  the  main  on  the  starboard  side,  fore 
and  mizen  on  the  larboard  side. 

Note.  When  the  lower  stays  are  fitted  with  mou- 
sings,  it  is  customary  to  have  them  on  the  side  oppo- 
site to  that  which  the  top  gallant  yards  are  stopped 
up  and  down.  The  royal  yards  have  a  D.  Thimble, 
clue  line  blocks,  head  earing  strops  and  foot  ropes  ; 
the  lifts  and  braces  are  single,  and  the  eyes  which 
go  over  the  yard  arm  are  stopped  together.  The  yard 
ropes  are  fitted  the  same  as  those  of  the  top  gallant 


92  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

yard,  they  are  stopped  in  the  rigging  the  reverse  of 
the  top  gallant  yard. 


112.     To  rig  a  Lower  Studding  Sail  Boom. 

Hoist  np,  ship  and  key  the  boom,  put  on  single 
blocks  for  forward  and  after  guys,  reeve,  hook,  and 
haul  taut  the  topping  lifts. 


113.     To  rig  a  Topmast  Studding  Sail  Boom, 

Send  the  boom  aloft  by  two  jiggers,  one ,  on  the 
lower  lift,  and  the  other  one  under  the  forward  part 
of  the  top,  point  the  boom  and  clamp  the  inner  iron, 
put  on  the  tack  and  lower  studding  sail  halyard 
blocks,  boom  lift  and  brace ;  over  the  heel,  straps  for 
boom  jiggers  and  heel  lashmg. 


114.     To  Rig  Top  Gallant  Studding  Sail  Boom. 

Sway  it  aloft  like  a  top  mast  steering  sail  boom, 
fit  a  tack  block  and  strap  for  heel  lashing. 


115..    Note. — Rig  the  Boat  and  Fish  Davits. 
Unreeve    all    the    girtlines,   yard    ropes,   mast 


93 

ropes  and  top  pendants,  unlash  and  send  down  all 
blocks  which  are  used  in  rigging  spars,  unreeve 
your  falls  and  heel  ropes,  haul  taut  top  burtons, 
pendant  tackles,  stay  the  mast,  seize  all  blocks  in 
their  proper  places  and  reeve  the  running  rigging. 


116.    To  Cut  the  Lower  Rigging. 

Take  the  length  from  the  larboard  side  of  the 
main  mast  head,  to  the  forward  dead  eye  in  the  star- 
board channels  from  the  section  drafts,  which  set  off 
on  the  floor  of  the  rigging  loft,  and  stick  in  a  marline 
spike  at  each  extremity,  the  shrouding  stuff  being 
stretched,  stop  one  end  to  one  of  the  marline  spikes, 
take  the  bight  around  the  other  and  back  again,  and 
this  is  the  first  pair  of  shrouds,  pass  it  around  again 
(outside  at  each  end)  for  the  second  pair,  and  con- 
tinue on  in  this  manner  until  shrouds  enough  are 
warped  off.  Take  one  and  a  half  or  one  and  a  quar- 
ter circumference  of  the  mast  head,  as  may  be  judg- 
ed most  proper,  and  chalk  it  off  upon  the  bights  of 
the  eyes  also,  chalk  off  the  distance  for  the  service 
to  go  on,  which  is  generally  about  the  middle  third, 
mark  the  shrouds,  and  cut  them  at  the  peg  in  an  an- 
gular direction,  so  that  the  after  legs  will  be  a  little 
longer  than  the  forward  ones,  put  them  on  a  stretch, 
and  worm  them  in  wake  of  the  service  ;  begin  at  each 


94 

end  where  the  service  is  to  leave  off,  and  parcel  upwards, 
to  file  middle  of  the  eye,  where  commence  serving 
and  "go  downwards  on  each  leg,  the  eye  seizings  are 
round  ones,  and  when  clapt  on,  the  whole  eye  is 
neatly  covered  with  parcelling,  a  half  sister  block  is 
sometimes  put  between  the  two  forward  shrouds  for 
the  lower  boom  topping  lift  to  lead  through  in  seiz- 
ing on  sister  blocks,  the  top  of  the  block  should  be 
once  of  the  circumference  of  the  rope  below  the  eye 
seizing,  dead  eyes  are  always  turned  in  with  the  lay 
of  the  rope,  having  throat  quarter  and  end  seizings ;  to 
distinguish  the  fore  from  the  main  shrouds,  mark  the 
fore  with  marline,  the  main  with  house  line,  should 
these  marks  get  off,  the  fore  and  main  can  easily  be 
distinguished  by  lengths,  the  starboard  shrouds  are 
all  shorter  than  the  corresponding  larboard  ones,  by 
the  diameter  of  the  rope,  therefore,  take  the  shortest 
pair  for  the  first  pair  of  starboard  shrouds,  and  the 
next  pair  for  the  first  pair  of  larboard  shrouds. 


117.     The  Topmast  and   Top   Gallant  Rigging, 

Is  cut  in  the  same  manner.  In  fitting  the  top  mast 
rigging,  always  seize  on  a  sister  block  between  the 
two  forward  shrouds  for  the  topsail  lift  and  reef 
tackles,  the  swifters  are  generally  served  the  whole 
length ;  the  eyes  of  the  top  gallant  rigging  are  made 


95 

to  fit  exactly  around  the  cylinder,  if  there  is  an  odd 
topmast  or  top  gallant  shroud  on  each  side,  they  are 
either  fitted  with  a  horse  shoe  eye,  or  go  together 
with  a  cut  splice. 


118.     The  Breast  and  Standing  Back  Stays, 

These  may  be  cut  by  the  same  rule,  the  eyes  of 
the  breast  back  stays  are  fitted  in  diflerent  ways, 
they  are  sometimes  spanned  togethel  making  a  square 
the  size  of  the  mast  head,  sometimes  they  have  an 
eye  like  the  shrouds,  made  to  fit  close,  and  others, 
a  small  thimble  is  seized  in  the  bight,  and  they  are 
lashed  around  the  mast  head  ;  the  eyes  of  the  stand- 
ing back  stays  are  like  those  of  the  shrouds. 


119.    The  Catharpin  Legs  and  Futtock  Shrouds, 

Take  one  third  the  breadth  of  the  top,  and  lay  on 
that  distance  from  the  eye  seizing,  down  upon  the 
shrouds,  each  side,  draw  a  line  across  which  will  re- 
present the  catharpins,  and  measured  upon  the  scale 
will  give  their  length,  splice  in  eyes  at  each  end, 
worm,  parcel,  serve  and  leather  them,  the  distance 
from  the  extremity  of  the  top  and  this  line  upon  the 
shroud,  will  give  the  length  of  the  futtock  shrouds. 


96  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

which  must  have  a  hook  and  thimble  in  their  upper 
ends,  and  a  thimble  in  their  lower  ends. 


120.  To  Cut  the  Fore  and  Aft  Stay, 

Measure  from  the  after  parts  of  the  mast  head, 
where  the  stays  set  up,  and  to  the  distance  add  the 
lenofth  of  the  mast  head  for  collars. 

Collars  for  stays  are  the  length  of  their  respective 
mast  head.  The  housings  are  to  be  raised  one  and  a 
half  the  size  of  the  stays,  and  at  a  distance  equal  to 
twice  the  length  of  the  mast  head  from  the  mousing. 
A  Flemish  eye  is  worked  on  the  end,  and  the  stay 
rove  through  it,  or  they  may  be  fitted  with  lashing 
eyes,  in  which  case  each  leg  is  the  length  of  the 
mast  head,  the  service  is  continued  the  length  of  the 
eye  below  the  mousing,  and  then  the  collars  are 
leathered,  the  hearts  are  turned  in  with  the  lay  of 
the  rope.  Stays  are  wormed,  parcelled,  served,  and 
leathered  in  the  wake  of  all  nipps,  such  as  the  bees, 
bullock  blocks,  and  sheave  holes. 


121.    To  Cut  the  Runner  Pendants. 

The  forward  pair  should  be  twice  the  length  of 
the  mast  head ;  the  after  pair  twice  and  a  half;  the 
thimbles  are  spliced  in  the  ends,  they  are  wormed 


"m 


YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  97 

or  spanned  together,  so  as  to  form  a  span  to  fit  the 
mast  head. 


122.  Bob  Stays. 

The  bob  stays  are  cut  twice  the  length  from  the 
collars,  on  the  bowsprit,  to  their  respective  holes  in 
the  cutwater.  They  are  wormed,  parcelled  and  served, 
the  whole  length,  and  leathered  in  the  nipp,  after 
which  they  are  rove  through  the  Jioles,  spliced  to- 
gether, and  the  dead  eyes  are  turned  in,  in  the  wake 
of  the  splice. 


123.   To  Cut  Bo%o sprit  Shrouds. 

The  length  from  the  bowsprit  to  the  eyebolts,  in 
the  bows,  a  dead  eye  or  heart  is  spliced  into  one  end 
and  a  hook  and  thimble  in  the  other. 


124.   The  Jib  and  Flying  Jib  Guys. 

From  the  boom  end  to  the  bows,  making  a  small 
allowance  for  reeving,  through  the  straps  on  the 
spritsail  yard,  they  are  generally  fitted  with  a  cuc- 
kold's neck,  over  the  boom  end,  and  set  up  with  dead 

eyes  to  the  bows.     The  cuckold's  neck  is  served  or 

9 


i 


98  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

covered  with  canvass.  The  guys  in  the  wake  of  the 
spritsail  yard  are  leathered.  The  martingales  must  be 
cut,  and  fitted  to  the  manner  in  which  they  are  rove. 


125.   The  Running  Rigging. 

The  running  rigging  is  cut  as  it  is  rove,  making 
due  allowance  for  the  hands  to  clap  on. 


126.  The  Main  and  Main  taring  Stays. 

Are  lead  down  ;  the  former  on  the  starboard  side, 
the  latter  on  the  larboard  side  of  the  fore  mast,  and 
set  up  to  hearts  bolted  to  the  breast  hooks,  or  around 
the  bitts  on  their  own  ports. 


127.    The  Mizen  Stay. 

Is  fitted  with  a  shark's  mouth,  and  lashed  to  eye 
boltSj  abreast  the  main  partners. 


]  28.    The  Fore  Topmast  and  Spring  Stays. 

Lead  through  bees,  the  former  on  the  starboard 
side,  the  latter  through  the  hanks,  and  then  through 
the  larboard  bees,  through  strops  around  the  bowsprit, 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  99 

and  either  have  dead  eyes  turned  in  their  ends,  and 
set  up  to  the  bows,  or  else  on  their  own  parts. 


129.    The  Jib  Stay. 

Is  frequently  lashed  to  the  collar  of  the  fore  top- 
mast spring  stay,  rove  through  hanks,  the  traveller, 
and  inner  sheave  hole  in  the  jib  boom,  and  leads  in 
by  the  jib  boom,  and  has  a  double  block  turned  in  its 
end  and  sets  up  to  a  single  one. 


130.   The  Main  Topmast  Stay. 

Reeves  through  a  bullock  block  stropped  around 
the  foremast  head,  above  the  rigging,  down  abaft  the 
foremast,  and  sets  up  to  an  eye  bolt  in  the  deck.  The 
spring  stay  leads  up  through  a  block  stropped  around 
the  foremast,  above  the  cat  harpins,  and  sets  up  in 
the  foretop.  The  mizen  topmast  stay  leads  through  a 
block,  stropped  around  the  main  mast  above  the  rig- 
ging, and  sets  up  on  its  own  part. 


131.    The  Fore  Top  Gallant  Stay. 

Reeves  through  the  outer  sheave  hole  in  the  jib 
boom,  and  through  a  bull's  eye,  hooked  to  the  bows 
and  sets  up  on  its  own  parts. 


4 


100  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

132.      The  Flying'  Jib  Stay. 

Reeves  through  the  inner  sheave  hole  in  the  flying 
jib  boom,  and  sets  up  hke  the  fore  top-gallant  stay. 


133.      The  Main  Top-gallant  Stay. 

Reeves  through  the  middle  sheave  in  the  after 
chock  of  the  fore  topmast  crosstrees,  or  through  a 
block  stropped  around  the  fore  topmast  head,  and 
sets  up  in  the  fore  top. 


134.     The  Mizen  Top-gallant  Stay. 

Reeves  through  a  bull's  eye  in  the  after  part  of  the 
main  cap,  and  sets  up  in  the  main  top. 


135.     The  Fore  Royal  Stay. 

Reeves  through  the  outer  sheave  hole  in  flying  jib 
boom  ends,  and  sets  up  at  the  bow. 


136.     The  Main  Royal  Stay. 

■  Reeves  through  a  thimble,  stopped  around  the  fore 
top-gallant  mast  head,  and  sets  up  in  the  crosstrees. 


101 

137.     The  Boh  Stays. 

After  being  rove,  are  set  up  to  their  respective  collars 
on  the  bowsprit. 


138.     The  Bowsprit  Shrouds. 

After  being  hooked  to  their  eye  bolts  in  the  booms, 
are  set  up  to  their  collars  on  the  bowsprits. 

The  gobblines  are  either  clove  hitched,  or  may  go 
with  a  cuckold's  neck  around  the  end  of  the  dolphin 
striker,  and  sets  up  to  the  bows  one  on  each  side. 


139.     Jib  Martingale  Stays. 

The  jib  martingale  stay  has  a  knot  cast  in  the  end 
and  reeves  through  the  upper  sheave  hole,  in  the 
dolphin  striker,  leaving  the  knot  on  the  after  side  ; 
then  through  the  block  at  the  jib  boom  end,  down 
again  through  the  sheave  hole  in  the  dolphin  striker, 
up  through  the  fair  leader,  on  the  bowsprit,  and  sets 
up  to  the  bows. 


140.    Plying  Jib  Martingale  Stays. 

Goes  over  the  boom  and  through  the  lower  sheave 
in  the  dolphin  striker,  up  through  the  fair  leader,  and 
sets  up  to  the  bows. 

9* 


i 


102  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


141.     Breast  Back  Stays. 

Have  double  blocks  turned  in  their  ends  and  set 
up  through  thrimble  ones  in  the  channels. 


142.     All  Standing  Back  Stays. 

Have  a  dead  eye  turned  in  their  ends,  and  set  up 
to  others  in  the  channels,  with  the  exception  of  the 
fore,  main,  and  mizen  top-gallant  back  stays,  which 
set  up  on  their  own  parts. 


143.     To  Reeve  Running  Rigging. 

The  lower  lifts  have  single  blocks  on  the  yard 
arms,  and  a  double  one  fitted  to  the  lower  cap.  The 
standing  part  is  made  fast  to  the  yard  arm,  then  reeves 
down  through  the  after  sheave  in  the  double  block 
at  the  cap,  out  again  through  the  single  block  on  the 
yard  arm,  and  then  down  through  the  forward  sheave 
in  the  double  block  at  cap. 


^  144.     The  Quarter  Lifts. 

Are  hooked  to  strops  around  the  lower  cap,  and 
to  the  quarter  lift  strops  on  the  yard. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  103 

145.     The  Topsail  Lifts. 

Go  with  a  single  eye  over  the  yard  arms,  up 
through  the  lower  sheave  hole  in  the  sister  block  in 
the  topmast  rigging,  and  lead  in  the  tops. 


146.     The  Reef  Tackles. 

Reeve  through  the  upper  sheave  hole  in  the  sister 
block  at  the  mast  head,  through  the  outer  sheave 
hole  in  the  yard  arm,  down  through  the  block  in  the 
leach  of  the  topsail,  and  the  end  is  clinched  around 
the  yard  arm. 

Note.  The  more  approved  plan,  is  to  have  pen- 
dants and  whipps. 


147.     The  Top-gallant  Lifts. 

Are  single,  and  are  seized  together,  or  marled  with 
the  braces ;  they  lead  through  a  half  sister  block, 
in  the  top-gallant  rigging  down  into  the  tops. 


148.     The  Royal  Lifts. 

Are  fitted,  and  go  in  the  same  manner,  as  the  top- 
gallant lifts. 


104  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

149.     Sprits  ail  Lifts. 

Are  generally"  single,  with  an  eye  over  the  yard 
arm,  with  the  end  rove  through  a  single  block  on  the 
bowsprit  cap  ;  and  then  leads  in  board. 


150.    Lower  Boom  Topping  Lifts. 

Are  fitted  to  reeve  through  a  block,  between  the 
forward  pair  of  shrouds,  and  hook  with  sister  hooks 
to  an  eye  bolt  in  a  band  on  the  lower  studdingsail 
boom. 


151.     Top  Mast  Studding  Sail  Boom  Topping 
Lifts. 

Are  fitted,  to  go  with  an  eye  over  the  boom  end, 
through  a  block  in  the  mast  head  pendant,  and  then 
down  on  deck. 


152.  Spanker  Boom  Topping  Lifts. 

Hook  to  a  strop  on  the  boom,  lead  through  cheek 
blocks,  bolted  to  the  mizen  mast,  and  set  up  in  the 
mizen  channels,  with  a  luif  purchase. 


YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  105 

153.  Fore  Braces. 

The  standing  parts,  are  clove  hitched  below  the 
mousing  of  the  main  stay,  the  other  part  rove  through 
the  block  on  the  yard,  back  again  through  the  blocks 
bolted  to  the  main  bibbs,  then  down  by  the  main 
mast  to  the  deck. 


154.  Fore    Topsail  Braces, 

The  standing  part,  is  made  fast  to  the  main  top- 
mast head,  stopped  down  to  the  collar  of  the  stay  as 
far  as  the  splice,  through  the  block  on  the  yard  arm, 
then  through  a  single  block  lashed  to  the  main  stay, 
a  little  below  the  mousing,  through  leading  blocks 
under  the  top,  and  down  by  the  main  mast  to  the 
deck. 


155.  Fore   Top  Gallant  Braces. 

The  standing  part  is  made  fast  to  the  main  top 
mast  head,  rove  through  a  block  on  the  yard  arm, 
back  through  a  block  on  the  main  top  mast  stays, 
then  through  leading  blocks  under  the  cross  trees  ^ 
and  down  by  the  main  mast. 


106  HEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

156.    Fore  Royal  Braces. 

A  single  eye  goes  over  the  yard  arm,  and  then 
reeves  through  a  block  lashed  under  the  eyes  of  the 
main  top  gallant  rigging,  and  down  on  deck  by  the 
main  mast. 


157.     The  Main  Braces, 

The  standing  part  goes  over  the  bumpkin  end  by 
the  quarter. galleries,  through  the  blocks  on  the  yard, 
back  again  through  a  block  on  the  bumpkin,  and  in 
on  deck. 


158.     The  Main  Topsail  Braces. 

The  standing  part  is  made  fast  to  the  mizen  top- 
mast head,  then  stopped  down  the  mizen  topmast 
stay,  below  the  splice,  rove  through  the  block  on  the 
yard  arm,  down  through  the  block  fitted  with  a  pen- 
dant around  the  mizen  mast,  and  down  on  deck. 


159.     The  Main  Top  Gallant  Braces, 

The  standing  part  makes  fast  to  the  mizen  top 
gallant  mast  head,  then  leads  through  the  block  on 


107 

the  yard  arm,  through  a  block  on  the  mizen  top 
mast  stay  below  the  splice. 


160.  Main  Royal  Braces. 

A  single  eye  goes  over  the  yard  arm,  and  leads 
through  a  block  seized  on  the  top  gallant  stay  and 
down  on  deck. 


161.    Cross  Jack  Braces. 

Standing  part  is  made  fast  to  the  after  main  swif- 
ter a  little  above  the  futtock  staffs,  it  then  leads 
through  a  block  on  the  yard,  back  through  a  block 
on  the  after  swifter,  seized  in  a  line  with  the  futtock 
staffs  and  down  on  deck. 


162.    Mizen  Top  sail  Braces. 

Standing  part  is  made  fast  to  the  main  cap,  leads 
through  a  block  on  the  yard,  back  through  a  block 
at  the  cap,  down  on  deck. 


163.  Mizen  Top  Gallant  Braces. 
Are  fitted  with  an  eye  over  the  yard  arm,  reeves 


108 

through  a  sheave  hole  in  the  after  chock  of  the  main 
topmast  crosstrees,  down  on  deck. 


1 64.  Mizen  Royal  Braces. 

Are  fitted  with  a  single  eye,  and  go  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  mizen  top  gallant  braces. 


165.  Sprit  Sail  Br  aces » 

Standing  part  makes  fast  to  the  collar  of  the 
fore  stay,  through  the  block  on  the  yard,  through  the 
block  under  the  fore  top,  and  down  on  deck  by  the 
foremast. 


166.   Topmast  Studding  Sail  Boom  Braces. 

A  long  pendant  goes  over  the  boom  end  with  an 
eye  splice,  and  a  single  block  spliced  in  the  end. 
The  standing  part  of  the  brace  makes  fast  to  the 
main  rigging,  the  other  end  reeves  through  the  block 
in  the  pendants,  then  through  a  block  in  the  main 
rigging,  down  on  deck. 


167.    Bowlines. 
The  fore  bowline   reeves  through  a  block  two 


109 

thirds  out  on  the  bowsprit,  and  then  in  on  deck,  to 
the  fore  casile. 


168.    Fore  Top  Bowline 

Reeves  through  a  block  on  the  bowsprit,  in  on  the 
fore  castle. 


169.    Fore  Top  Gallant  Boxoline 

Reeves  through  a  block  at  the  jib  boom  end, 
through  the  fair  leader  on  the  bowsprit  and  in  board 
on  the  fore  castle. 


170.  Fore  Royal  Bowline 

Reeves  through  a  block  at  the  flying  jib  boom 
end,  in  through  the  fair  leader,  the  same  as  the  fore 
top  gallant  bowline. 


171.    Main  Bowline, 

The  main  bowline  is  a  runner  and  tackle,  the 
standing  part  made  fast  to  the  running  part  and  be- 
layed to  the  fore  fife  rail. 

10 


'\ 


110  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

172.    Main  Top  Bowline 

Reeves  through  a  block,  bolted  to  the  after  part  of 
the  fore  trusseltrees,  down  on  deck  to  the  side. 


173.  Main  Top  Gallant  Bowline 

Reeves  through  the  sheave  hole  in  the  after  chock 
in  the  fore  topmast  cross  trees,  then  leads  on  deck. 


174.  Main  Royal  Bowlines 
Lead  similar  to  the  fore  royal  bowlines. 


175.     The  Mizen  Top  Bowlines 

Reeve  through  a  block  seized  to  the  after  main 
swifter- 


176.   The  Mizen  Top   Gallant  Bowlines 

Reeve  through  a  sheave  in  the  chock  of  the  main 
top  mast  crosstrees,  down  on  deck. 


177.   The  Mizen  Royal  Bowlines. 
Lead  similar  to  the  fore  and  main 


Ill 

178.  Fore  Topmast  Stay  /Sail  Halyards. 

The  standing  part  is  seized  or  hitched  to  the  fore 
topmeist  spring  stay,  then  rove  through  a  block  in 
the  head  of  the  sail,  up  through  a  leading  block,  un- 
der the  eyes  of  the  topmast  rigging,  then  down  on 
the  larboard  side  to  the  deck  abaft  the  foremast. 


179.  Jib  Halyards 

Are  bent  and  rove  like  the  stay  sail,  leading  down 
on  the  starboard  side  of  the  deck. 


180.  Flying  Jib  Halyards 

Are  a  single  rope  hitched  to  the  head  of  the  flying 
jib,  leading  through  a  single  block  at  the  fore  top 
gallant  mast  head,  down  on  deck  the  larboard  side. 


181.  Fore  Top  Sail  Halyards. 

The  end  of  the  tye  clinches  around  the  topmast 
head,  reeves  through  a  block  on  the  yard,  up  through 
the  ginns  of  the  mast  head,  and  has  a  thimble  spliced 
in  the  end,  a  double  block  is  attached  to  this  thimble 
with  sister  hooks,  and  the  halyards  are  rove  like  a 


112  KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

luff  purchase,  connecting  the  double  block  with  a 
single  one  in  the  channels,  there  being  two  tyes  and 
two  halyards,  one  on  each  side. 


182.   The  Main  Top  Sail  Halyards 
Are  fitted  the  same  as  the  fore  ones  in  all  respects. 


183.  The  Mizen  Topsail  Halyards 

Have  only  one  tye,  which  reeves  through  the 
sheave  hole  in  the  mizen  topmast  head. 


184.  Fore  Top  Gallant  Halyards, 

The  tye  hooks  to  a  thimble  and  reeves  through  a 
sheave  hole  at  the  mast  head.  The  halyards  are  a  luff 
purchase,  the  double  block  hooked  to  the  tye,  and 
the  single  one  to  a  strop  around  the  lower  trussel- 
trees,  the  fall  leading  on  deck. 


185.    Main  Top   Gallant  Halyards 
Lead  the  same  as  the  fore  ones. 


t^« 


U3 
186.  Mizen  Top  Gallant  Halyards 

Have  no  purchase,  but  are  long,  and  lead  single  on 
deck. 


187.  Fore,  Main,  and  Mizen  Royal  Halyards 

Are  all  single,  and  lead  similar  to  the  mizen  top 
gallant  halyards. 


188.  Main  Topmast  Stay  sail  Halyards. 

The  standing  part  is  hitched  to  the  collar  of  the 
main  topmast  spring  stay,  reeving  through  a  block 
in  the  head  of  the  sail,  up  through  a  leading  block 
at  the  main  topmast  head  and  down  on  deck. 


189.  Mizen  Stay  Sail  Halyards 

Are  hitched  to' the  collar  of  the  stay  sail  stay,  reev- 
ing through  a  block  in  the  head  of  the  sail,  then 
through  a  leader,  and  lead  down  on  deck. 


190.     Gaff  Throat  Halyards 

Are  a  luff  purchase.   The  single  block  hooks  to  an 
10* 


114  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

eye  bolt  in  the  jaws  of  the  gaff,  and  the  double  one 
to  another  in  the  mizen  trussletrees. 


191.  Peak  Halyards. 

The  standing  part  goes  on  the  gaff  end,  leads 
through  a  double  block  at  the  cap,  and  out  through 
a  single  block  on  the  gaff,  up  again  through  the 
double  block  at  the  cap,  and  down  on  deck. 


192.    Lower  Studding  Sail  Halyards. 

The  outer  ones  are  taken  through  the  lubber's 
hole,  rove  through  a  block  in  the  end  of  a  mast  head 
pendant,  out  through  a  block-at  the  end  of  the  stud- 
ding sail  boom,  and  bent  to  the  yard  ;  the  inner 
halyards  lead  through  two  single  blocks  on  the  fore 
yard,  the  one  without  the  other,  and  is  bent  to  the 
inner  head  cringle. 


193.   Top  Mast  Studding  Sail  Halyards 

Are  rove  through  span  blocks,  at  the  top  mast 
head,  then  through  the  jewel  blocks,  at  the  yard  arm, 
and  bent  to  the  yard. 


> 


11& 

194.   Fore  Top  Mast  Stay  Sail  Downhaul 

Is  hitched  to  the  head  of  the  sail,  rove  through  the 
hanks,  then  through  a  block  seized  to  the  tack  of 
the  sail,  and  leads  in  on  deck,  through  the  fair  leader, 
to  the  fore  castle. 


195.   Jih  Downhaul 

Is  hitched  to  the  head  of  the  sail,  then  rove  through 
the  hanks,  the  same  as  the  stay  sail  downhaul,  then 
rove  through  a  block  seized  to  the  traveller  and  lead 
in  on  deck,  through  the  fair  leader,  to  the  starboard 
side  of  the  fore  castle. 


196.  Flying  Jih  Downhaul 

Is  hitched  to  the  head  of  the  sail,  rove  through 
the  hanks,  then  through  a  block  at  the  end  of  the 
boom,  and  in  on  deck,  the  same  as  the  others. 


197.    Top  Sail  Downhauls 

Are  either  luff  or  gun  tackle  purchases,  hooked 
to  strops  around  the  slings  of  the  yard,  and  another 
through  the  pigeon  hole  of  the  top. 


116  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

198.    Main  Topmast  Stay  Sail  Downhaul 

Is  clinched  to  the  head  of  the  sail,  then  rove 
through  the  hanks,  through  a  block  at  the  tack  of 
the  sail,  and  down  by  the  foremast. 


199.    Mizen  Stay  Sail  Downhaul 

Is  clinched  to  the  head  of  the  sail,  rove  through 
the  hanks,  down  the  mizen  stay. 


200.   Topmast  Studding  Sail  Downhaul 

Bends  to  the  yard  arm,  reeves  through  a  bull's 
eye  in  the  leach  of  the  sail^  then  through  a  single 
block  at  the  tack,  and  in  on  deck. 


201.   Top  Gallant  Studding-  Sail  Downhaul 
Bends  to  the  yard  arm  and  leads  to  the  top. 


202.  Royal  Studding  Sail  Downhaul 

Is  bent  to  the  yard,  and  leads  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  top  gallant  studding  sail  downhaul. 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.'  117 

203.  Main  Tack 

Is  hooked  to  an  eye  bolt  in  the  gangway,  then 
rove  through  a  block  in  the  clew  of  the  sail,  then 
leads  through  a  block  in  the  gangway  and  belayed 
to  a  cavel. 

The  fore  tack  is  hooked  to  the  fore  bumpkin,  then 
rove  through  a  block  in  the  clew  of  the  sail,  out 
through  another  block  at  the  bumpkin  end,  and  in 
on  the  fore  castle. 


204.  l^he  Jib  and  Fore  Topmast  Stay  Sail  Tacks 
Are  simple  lashings. 


205.   The  Spanker  Tack 
Is  a  small  gun  tackle  purchase. 


206.   Topmast^  Top  Gallant^  and  Royal  Studding 
Sail  Tacks. 

The  topmast  studding  sail  tack  is  bent  to  the 
tack  of  the  sail,  rove  throuorh  a  block  on  the  end  of 
the  boom.  The  fore,  leading  aft  to  a  block,  in  the 
forward  part  of  the  main  rigging. 

The  main  leads  through  a  sheave  hole  in  the 
bulwark  abaft. 


118  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

The  top  gallant  and  royal  studding  sail  tacks,  are 
bent  in  the  same  manner  and  lead  in  their  respective 
:ops. 


207.  Main  Topmast  Stay  Sail  Tack 

Reeves  through  a  block,  in  the  weather  fore  rig- 
ging- 


208.  Lower  Studding  Sail  Outhaul 

Is  bent  to  the  tack  of  the  sail,  rove  through  a 
block  at  the  boom  end,  and  leads  in  through  a  lead- 
ing block  in  the  gangway. 


209,  Spanker  Outhaul. 

The  end  is  clinched  around  the  boom  end,  rove 
through  a  block  in  the  clew  of  the  sail,  then  out 
through  a  sheave  hole  in  the  boom  end,  and  belayed 
to  a  cleat  lashed  to  the  boom. 


210.    Fore  arid  Main  Sheets 
Are  hooked  with  sister  hooks  to  bolts  in  the  ship's 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  119 

side,  then  rove  through  the  block  in  the  clew  of  the 
sail,  and  lead  in  through  a  sheave  hole  in  the  side. 


211.    Top  Sail  Sheets 

Are  clinched  around  the  lower  yard  arms,  then 
rove  through  the  blocks  in  the  clew  of  the  sail, 
through  the  sheave  holes  in  the  yard  arms,  in  again 
through  the  quarter  blocks,  and  lead  down  on  deck 
to  the  topsail  sheet  bitts,  where  they  are  belayed. 


212.   Top  Gallant  and  Royal  Sheets 

Are  clinched  to  the  clews  of  the  sail,  rove  through 
the  sheave  hole  in  the  yard  arms,  in  through  the 
quarter  blocks,  and  lead  on  deck. 

Note.  The  royal  sheet  leads  only  as  far  as  the  top. 


213.  Fore  Topmast  Stay  Sail  and  Jib  Sheets. 

Pendants  lashed  to  the  clew  of  the  sails,  with  a 
block  in  the  end,  through  which  the  sheets  are  rove, 
the  standing  part  is  hooked  to  an  eyebolt  in  the 
bows,  and  the  running  part  is  led  in  on  the  fore 
castle. 


120  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

214.    Flyijig  Jib  Sheets 

Are  lashed  to  the  clew  of  the  sail,  rove  through  a 
block  on  the  spritsail  yard,  and  lead  in  on  the  fore 
castle. 


215.   Mizen  Stay  Sail  Sheet 

Is  a  runner,'  leading  through  a  snatch  block  and 
thimble. 

The  main  topmast  stay  sail  sheet  makes  fast  to 
the  clew  of  the  sail,  and  leads  down  in  the  gangway. 


216.  Spanker  Sheets 

Are  luff  purchases,  reeving  through  a  double 
block  on  the  boom  and  a  single  one  bolted  to  the 
taffrail. 


217.     Loioer  Studding  Sail  Sheets. 

The  short  sheet  reeves  through  a  block,  hooked  in 
the  side  or  in  the  channels ;  the  long  one  leads  in  on 
the  fore  castle. 


218.     Topmast  Studding  Sail  Sheets. 
The  short  one  leads  through  a  thimble  on  the 


121 

lower  yard,  into  the  top,  the  long  one  leads  down  on 
the  fore  castle. 


219.     The  Top-gallant  and  Royal  Studding  /Sail 
Sheets 

All  lead  in  the  top. 


220.     Clue  Garnets. 

The  fore  and  main  clue  garnets  are  hitched  to  the 
yards,  then  rove  through  a  block  lashed  in  the  clews 
of  the  sail,  up  through  a  block  on  the  quarter  of  the 
yard,  down  to  the  fife  rail. 


221.     Topsail  and  Top-gallant  Clewlines 

Are  rove  the  same  as  clew  garnets. 
Note.     Some  ships  have  them  to  go  with  whips 
and  pendants. 


222.     Royal  Clewlines 

Are  hitched  to  the  clews  of  the  sails  rove  through 

the  quarter  blocks  on  the  yard,  and  lead  either  in  the 

tops,  or  on  deck. 

I  11 


122  KEDGE   ANCHOR,   OR 

.  223.     Lower  Studding  Sail  Clewlines 

Are  hitched  to  the  outer  clew  of  the  sail,  rove 
through  a  block  at  the  inner  yard  arm,  then  through 
a  block  on  the  fore  yard,  and  are  led  down  on  deck. 


224.     Fore  and  Main  Buntlines 

Aredonble.  The  upper  legs  reeve  through  the  upper 
sheave  in  the  shoe  block,  then  through  a  double  block 
under  the  tops,  and  both  parts  are  toggled  or  clenched 
to  the  foot  of  the  courses,  forward  of  the  sail. 

The  lower  legs  are  rove  through  the  lower  sheave 
of  the  shoe  block,  and  forms  a  whip  ;  the  standing 
part  seizing  to  the  main  stays  by  the  fore  mast,  and 
the  other  part  is  manned  in  hauling  up  the  sail. 

Note.  The  fore  buntlines  lead  down  by  the  after 
fore  swifter,  and  belay  to  the  side,  or  life  rail. 


225.     Top  Sail  Buntlines 

Are  clinched  in  the  foot  of  the  sail,  then  reeve 
through  a  thimble,  lashed  to  the  yard,  up  through 
leading  blocks  under  the  fore  part  of  the  topmast 
crosstrees,  and  down  on  deck. 


4l^1f^^ 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  123 

226.     Top-gallant  Buntlines 

Are  hitched  to  a  span  in  the  foot  of  the  sail ;  leads 
through  a  block  at  the  top-gallant  mast  head,  and 
down  on  deck. 

Note,  Slablines  are  hitched  to  the  middle  of  a 
span  at  the  foot  of  the  sail,  leads  up  abaft,  and  reeves 
through  a  block  lashed  to  a  grummet,  around  the 
strops  of  the  quarter  blocks  of  the  lower  yards,  and 
down  on  deck. 


227.     Leach  Lines 

The  forward  leach  lines  are  rove  through  the  up- 
per sheave  hole  of  a  shoe  block,  both  parts  are  then 
rove  through  a  double  block,  hooked  with  a  pendant 
to  the  lower  cap,  then  through  two  single  blocks, 
seized  to  the  jack  stays  on  the  yards,  and  are  clinched 
to  the  leaches  of  the  courses  before  the  sail. 


228.     The  Lower  Legs 

Are  rove  through  the  other  sheave  hole,  in  the  shoe 
block,  the  standing  part  is  made  fast  to  the  fife  rail, 
the  other  end  being  used  to  haul  up  the  sails. 


229.     After  Leach  Lines. 
Are  rove  through  blocks  on  the  underneath  part 


124  HEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

of  the  yard,  and  clinched  to  the  courses  abaft  the  sail, 
to  the  same  places,  as  the  forward  ones. 


230.     Spanker  Brails. 

The  middle  brail,  and  peak  brail,  are  seized  to  the 
after  leach  of  the  sail,  leading  up  through  cheeks 
bolted  on  each  side  of  the  gaff,  through  leading  blocks, 
bolted  on  each  side  of  the  jaws  of  the  gaff,  and  down 
on  deck. 

The  foot  brails  are  rove  through  a  block  lashed  to 
a  hoop  one  third  or  thereabouts  up  the  trysail  mast. 


231.     Try  Sail  Brails 

Are  rove  like  the  spanker  brails.  Themizen  stay- 
sail brails  are  clinched  in  the  after  clew  of  the  sail, 
led  up  through  a  block  seized  to  the  upper  part  of  the 
luff  of  the  sail  and  lead  on  deck. 


232.     Main  Topmast  Stay  Sail  Brails 

\  Are  seized  to  the  leach  of  the  sail,  lead  up  through 

the  hanks  to  a  block  seized  to  the  upper  hank,  and 
act  as  a  downhaul  also. 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  125 

233.     Jih  Brails 

Are  seized  to  the  clew  of  the  sail,  and  lead  through 
a  block  seized  to  a  hank,  down  through  another  at 
the  end  of  the  jib  boom,  and  in  on  the  fore  castle. 


234.   Jih  and  Flying  Jih  Guys 

Are  fitted  over  their  respective  boom  ends,  and  lead 
in  through  thimbles  stopped  on  the  spritsail  yard* 
having  dead  eyes,  spliced,  or  turned  in  their  ends, 
setting  up  to  others  at  the  bows. 


235.     Lower  Boom  Guys 

The  standing  part  of  the  forward  guy  is  made  fast 
to  the  spritsail  yard,  then  rove  through  a  block  on  a 
boom,  back  again  through  a  block  on  the  bowsprit 
cap,  and  lead  in  on  the  fore  castle. 


236.     The  After  Guys 

Are  hooked  to  an  eyebolt  in  the  side  abaft  the  fore 

channels,  then  rove  through  a  block  on  the  boom 

and  leads  in  through  a  sheave  hole  in  the  side  above 

where  the  standing  part  is  hooked. 
IX* 


126  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

237.     The  Spanker  Boom  Guys 

Have  a  pendant  which  is  fitted  to  go  over  the 
boom  end,  and  sets  up  on  the  quarter  with  a  gun 
tackle  purchase. 


238.     Storm  Stay  Sail  Gear. 

The  storm  stay  sail  stays  are  lashed  around  their 
respective  mast  heads,  or  toggled  in  the  crutch  of  the 
lower  stays,  and  set  up  near  the  proper  stays,  the  hal- 
yards and  dovvnhauls  being  rove  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  other  stay  sails,  using  luff  purchases  for  the 
sheets. 


239.   The  Middle^  Lower^  and  Upper  Top-gallant 
Stay  Sails  J  and  Jack  Stays, 

May  be  fitted  in  one.  In  this  case  a  double  block  is 
turned  in,  and  lashed  to  the  after  part  of  the  fore  top- 
mast crosstrees,  or  mast  head,  the  lower  part  is  set 
up  in  the  fore  top,  the  upper  part,  at  the  fore  top-gal- 
lant mast  head. 

The  middle  stay  sail  stays,  are  rove  through  a  sin- 
gle block,  stropped  to  the  topmast,  down  on  the  cap. 

The  lower  and  upper  top-gallant  stay  sail  stays, 
are  rove  through  blocks,  fitted  to  traverse  the  jack 
stay,  with  lock  thimbles,  the  former  being  rove 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  127 

through  the  other  sheave  of  the  double  blocn  at  the 
topmast  crosstrees,  the  latter  through  a  block  at  the 
fore  top-gallant  mast  head,  and  both  are  led  on  deck. 


240.     The  Downhaul  Blocks 

Are  single  and  are  seized  to  the  strops  of  the  tricing 
line  blocks.  The  halyards  are  whips,  hitched  to  the 
collars  of  the  stays,  rove  through  blocks  in  the  head 
of  the  sail,  through  leading  blocks  at  the  mast  head, 
down  on  the  quarter  deck. 

The  downhauls  are  hitched  to  the  head  of  the 
sail,  rove  through  the  hanks,  and  through  the  down- 
haul  blocks,  and  lead  in  on  deck.  The  tacks  are 
single,  and  lead  in  the  fore  top,  the  sheets  are  also 
single  leading  in  the  gangways. 


241.   To  Stow  the  Hold  and  Spirit  Room.  Ballast. 

See  that  the  limbers  are  clear  from  chips  or  dirt, 
and  place  the  limber  boards.  Clean,  sweep,  and 
whitewash  the  hold,  place  hoop  poles  athwart  ships 
for  dunnage,  as  near  to  each  other  as  possible,  so  that 
each  pig  of  iron  will  rest  at  least  on  two  of  them. 
Have  the  rust  well  beaten  off  the  ballast,  and  white- 
wash each  pig.  Each  pig  should  be  weighed,  after 
which  strike  it,  stow  it  according  to  the  mould  of  the 


128  HEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

vessel  and  to  her  best  sailing  trim,  always  observing 
to  have  the  same  number  of  pigs  on  each  side  of  the 
kelson. 

The  ballast  in  the  spirit  room  should  be  a  contin- 
uation of  that  in  the  hold.  Make  a  draft  of  the  bal- 
last, indicating  the  exact  number  of  pigs,  the  exact 
position  which  they  occupy,  and  their  exact  weight. 


242.     To  Stow  the  Casks. 

Strike  down  their  beds,  place  and  whitewash  them ; 
then  strike  below  the  water  casks,  commencing  at  the 
after  bulkhead  in  the  hold ;  the  kelson  tier — observing 
to  have  the  largest  cask  in  that  tier,  and  the  guages 
of  the  casks  on  each  side  of  the  kelson,  to  correspond. 
Be  careful  that  the  bung  holes  are  all  up,  and  the 
bilge  free,  and  head  clear. 

After  completing  the  first  tier,  go  on  with  the  se- 
cond, placing  hanging  beds  between  the  casks,  and 
stowing  barked  wood  in  all  the  breakages.  As  the 
tiers  approach  the  wings,  let  the  size  of  the  cask  di- 
minish. When  the  ground  tier  is  all  finished,  fill  and 
bung  the  casks.  Stow  the  riding  tiers  in  the  cunt- 
lines  of  the  ground  tiers,  fill  and  bung  them  up  ;  the 
stowage  being  commenced  abaft,  all  breakage  will  be 
forward. 


YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  129 

243.     Stowage  of  Naval  /Stores. 

Stow  the  beef  on  the  larboard  side,  and  the  pork 
on  the  starboard  side,  with  the  flour,  rice  and  beans 
in  the  wings,  chocking  all  oflf,  fore  and  aft  with 
wood.  The  casks  in  the  spirit  rooms  are  stowed  in 
the  same  manner,  with  the  exception  that  the  stow- 
age is  commenced  forward,  instead  of  abaft.  Whis- 
key, molasses  and  vinegar  are  always  stowed  in 
casks.  The  liquors  of  the  medical  department,  and 
pursers  stores  are  generally  stowed  in  the  spirit 
room. 

Make  a  draft  of  the  ground  tier,  and  riding  tiers, 
and  spirit  rooms. 

Note.  The  guages  of  all  casks  upon  the  draft, 
the  number  of  barrels,  boxes,  <fcc.,  with  the  kind  of 
provisions  which  they  contain. 

The  shot  and  wads  may  now  be  got  on  board  and 
stowed  in  their  respective  lockers. 


244.   To  Get  on  Board  the  Cables. 

The  cables  are  taken  from  the  rope  walks,  and 
coiled  upon  a  car,  having  a  large  hole  in  its  bottom, 
after  being  transported  to  the  wharf  where  the  light- 
ers are,  the  upper  end  of  the  coil  is  taken  down 
through  all  the  flakes,  and  through  the  hole  in  the 


130  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

bottom  of  the  car,  then  coiled  away  again  in  the 
lighter.  By  dipping  the  end  in  this  manner  grinds 
or  kinks  are  prevented,  and  the  cable  is  got  into  the 
lighter,  with  only  one  turn  in  it. 

Hemp  cables  are  a  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms 
in  length,  a  seventy  four  gun  ship,  or  a  frigate  gene- 
rally has  five,  a  sloop  of  war  three. 

The  lighter  being  towed  off  to  the  ship,  haul  un- 
der the  bows,  place  masts  in  the  sides  and  sills  of 
one  of  the  forward  ports,  get  the  cables  in  on  deck, 
and  French  flake  them  fore  and  aft ;  they  are  now 
with  the  same  number  of  turns  in  them  as  when  they 
left  the  rope  walks. 

See  that  the  orlops  are  clear,  and  that  the  skids 
are  properly  placed  for  the  cable  to  lay  on.  Pass  the 
end  of  the  spare  one  below  and  coil  away  with  the 
sun,  on  the  starboard  side  of  the  main  orlop,  abaft, 
make  the  coil  as  large  as  possible,  taking  care  not  to 
have  too  many  flakes,  in  a  sheave,  as  the  inside 
strands  of  the  inner  ones  would  be  injured. 

Pass  the  ends  of  the  two  sheets  below  the  starboard 
one  on  the  larboard  side  and  the  larboard  on  the  star- 
board side,  and  clinch  them  around  the  main  mast,  or 
to  the  orlop  beams,  coil  them  away  with  the  sun,  let- 
ting the  ends  remain  out.  These  ends  are  pointed  and 
tailed,  as  also,  the  ends  of  those  which  remain  on 
deck.  Join  the  pointed  ends  with  a  short  splice, 
worming  the  tails  along  the  cable.  Having  seizings 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  131 

put  on  at  proper  distances,  these  form  two  long 
cables ;  and  the  whole  five  cables  form  three  tiers. 
The  upper  ends  of  the  two  last  cables,  are  crowned 
in  the  following  manner,  viz.,  clap  a  seizing  round 
the  cable,  about  two  fathoms  from  the  end,  and  un- 
lay it  to  the  seizing.  With  the  three  inner  strands 
form  an  artificial  eye,  cut  off  the  three  next  ones, 
and  woold  their  ends ;  with  the  three  outer  ones, 
form  a  crown,  worm  the  ends  along  the  cable,  and 
clap  on  seizings. 


245.    Chain  Cables. 

Are  got  in  through  the  hause  holes,  and  paid  down, 
into  their  respective  lockers,  into  the  main  hatch  way. 
They  are  ninety  fathoms  long,  and  shackled  to  the 
kelson  with  a  Jewsharp,  or  lashed. 

The  stream  cables  and  messengers  are  coiled  away 
in  the  tier  of  the  spare  cable.  The  hawsers  if  pos- 
sible, should  be  stowed,  so  that  the  end  of  every  one 
could  be  passed  up  together,  or  at  the  same  time. 


246.   To  Get  the  Anchors  on  Board. 

Rig  the  fish  davits,  reeve  and  overhaul  the  cat 
and  fish  falls,  get  the  anchors  into  a  lighter  and  tow 


132  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

them  under  the  bows,  pass  up  the  end  of  the  stream 
cable  and  chnch  to  the  ring  of  the  bower  anchor, 
hook  the  cat  and  run  the  anchor  up  to  the  cat  head. 
Pass  the  stopper,  hook  the  fish,  and  pass  the  shank 
painter,  unbend  the  stream  cable  and  bend  it  to  the 
waist  anchor,  then  drop  the  lighter  aft.  and  secure 
her  under  the  berth  of  the  anchor.  Brace  the  fore 
yard  in,  and  the  main  yard  up,  as  much  as  possible, 
and  top  them  up  a  little,  hook  a  stout  tackle  to 
act  as  a  rolling  tackle,  bouse  the  lifts  and  trusses 
well  taut.  Pass  a  lashing  around  the  slings  of  the 
yard,  to  ease  the  trusses.  Hook  ^both  top  burtons  to 
the  yard  arm,  and  set  well  up  the  opposite  breast 
back  stays.  Pass  a  strop  around  the  topmast,  just 
above  the  lower  cap.  Hook  the  double  block  of  a 
stout  pendant  tackle  in  this  strop,  and  the  single  one 
is  hooked  just  without  the  place  where  the  bull's  eye 
for  the  pendant  is  to  be  lashed ;  haul  well  taut  the 
lifts,  burtons  and  pendant  tackles  alike,  reeve  whips 
and  get  up  the  triantic  stays.  The  bull's  eyes  for 
the  pendants  are  lashed  far  enough  out  upon  the 
yards,  to  allow  the  anchor  to  clear  the  ship's  side. 

Reeve  the  pendant  up  through  it,  and  clinch  the 
end  to  the  lower  mast  head,  have  a  thimble  in  the 
lower  end  to  which  the  purchases    are    hooked. 

Have  a  thwartship  tackle  in  readiness,  to  bouse 
the  anchor  to  the  gunwale ;  lash  the  lower  block  of 


133 

the  main  purchases,  to  the  crown  of  the  anchor 
having  guys  from  each  fluke  to  keep  it  steady. 

The  fore  purchase  block  is  lashed  to  the  ring. 

Rack  the  topsail  tye  aloft,  and  hook  the  lower 
block  of  the  fore  topsail  halyards  to  a  stout  strop, 
passed  around  the  shank  of  the  anchor  (amidships) 
then  lashed  above  the  middle  of  the  upper  arm  of  the 
stock,  haul  taut  handsomely.  *'  Sway  away  ;"  when, 
high  enough,  haul  over  on  the  stay  and  athwart-* 
ship  tackles,  get  the  bill  of  the  anchor  upon  the 
gunwale,  pass  tripp  stopper  place  shoes  and  secure 
the  anchor,  with  stock  and  shank  lathings  ;  unbend 
the  stream  cable,  and  unlash  purchases. 

Drop  the  lighter  around  on  the  other  side  of  the 
ship.  Shift  over  your  purchases,  secure  your  yards, 
and  get  up  the  other  bower  and  waist  anchors  in 
the  same  manner.  When  done,  pass  the  stream 
cable  below. 


247.   To  Bend  the  Cables. 

Reeve  a  ring  rope  through  the  ring  of  the  anchor, 

leading  it  in  through  the  hawse  holes,  and  bend  it  to 

the  cable  with  a  timber  hitch,  three  or  four  fathoms 

from  the  end,  having  it  stopped  along  to  the  end. 

Haul  out  on  the  ring  rope,  and  when  you  have 

enough  of  the  end  through  the  ring,  cut  the  stops, 

unbend  the  ring  rope,  and  form  an  inside  clinch, 

12 


134  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

having  it  smaller  than  the  ring  of  the  anchor.  The 
bends  are  put  on  opposite  to  each  other,  and 
a  small  bend  is  put  on  near  the  end  to  secure  it. 

Render  the  cables  as  far  as  possible  through  the 
clinch,  and  stop  them  together  to  prevent  chafes,  (tec. 

The  chain  cables  are  shackled  to  the  rings  of  the 
anchors,  then  bend  the  buoy  ropes. 


248.    To  Range  and  Stopper  the  Cables. 

Before  ranging  the  cables,  they  should  be  bitted, 
which  is  done  as  follows  ;  when  the  cables  are  bent, 
haul  up  sufficient  slack  to  form  a  bight  abaft  the 
bitts,  throw  the  bight  which  is  thus  formed,  over  the 
head  of  the  bitts,  and  in  case  you  wish  to  weather 
bitt  it,  take  another  turn  around  the  cavil.  In  rang- 
ing, get  a  tail  block  over  the  hatchway,  and  reeve  a 
rope  through  it,  which  overhaul  down  and  hitch  to 
the  cable.  Take  the  running  part  close  out  to  the 
guns,  bouse  upon  the  rope  and  French  flake  the 
cable  fore  and  aft  the  decks.  Clap  on  deck  and  bitt 
stoppers,  before  and  abaft  the  bitts,  put  on  rounding 
at  the  range,  which  is  intended  to  veer,  and  also  have 
cable  mats  in  readiness,  to  be  used  as  may  be  re- 
quired. 


136 

249.  Stoppers  and  Nippers. 

The  cat  head  stopper  has  a  knot  worked  in  the 
end,  is  then  rove  through  the  hole  in  the  cat  head 
through  the  ring  in  the  anchor,  and  taken  over  the 
cleat,  on  the  side  of  the  cat  head,  in  board  and  be- 
layed. 


250.     The  Tripp  Stoppers, 

Both  ends  are  made  fast  to  eye  bolts  under  the  af- 
ter part  of  the  fore  channels.  The  score  in  the  end 
of  the  waist  anchor  stock  rest  in  the  bight,  its  use  is 
to  tripp  the  anchor  when  let  go,  clear  of  the  ship's 
side. 


251.  Deck  Stoppers 

Are  hooked  to  bolts  in  the  deck.  They  have  a  knot 
worked  in  the  end  with  a  lanyard  fast  to  it.  The 
lanyard  is  passed  around  both  stopper  and  cable, 
abaft  the  knot,  and  then  wormed  along  the  cable, 
forward  of  it. 


252.  Ring  Stoppers  ' 
Are  ropes  middled,  the  bights  being  taken  through 


136  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

the  deck  bolts,  the  ends  rove  through  and  dogged 
along  the  cable. 


253.     Bitt  fStopjyers 

Are  tailed  and  rove  through  the  Sampson  knee 
forward  of  the  bitts,  taken  over  the  cable  abaft  the 
bitts,  under  again,  and  wormed  along  the  cable  for- 
ward. 


254.    Dog  Stoppers 

Are  very  long,  and  are  used  in  the  tiers.  One  end 
is  clinched  around  the  main  mast,  and  the  other 
wormed  along  the  cable. 

The  wing  stoppers  are  similar,  but  are  clinched 
around  the  orlop  deck  beams  in  the  wings. 


255.    The  Combi7ig  Stojjj^ers,  or  Compressers, 

For  hemp  cables  they  are  very  long,  and  are 
tailed.  Two  holes  are  bored  through  the  deck,  abaft 
the  after  beam  of  the  hatch  ;  one  end  of  the  stopper 
is  rove  through  one  of  the  holes,  downwards,  passed 
under  the  cable  and  rove  up  again  through  the  other 
hole,  both  ends  are  then  dogged  around  the  cable 
taut,  so  as  to  nip  it  against  the  bea*rn. 


^    •  YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  137 

For  chain  cables,  the  combing  stopper  is  an  iron 
elbow,  one  end  of  which  is  bolted  to  the  forward  beam 
of  the  hatch  underneath,  the  elbow  goes  around  the 
cable,  having  an  eye  in  the  other  end  to  which  a 
lufF  tackle  is  hooked,  which  being  hauled  upon, 
stoppers  the  cable  effectually. 


256.    Nippers 

Should  be  five  fathoms  long  and  made  of  the  best 
of  rope  yarns. 


257.    To  Pass  a  Nipper. 

Lay  the  messenger  on  the  cable,  and  begin  two 
or  three  fathoms  abaft  the  hawse  hole,  to  pass  the 
nippers,  which  is  done  as  follows.  Two  round  turns 
are  first  taken  with  the  end  of  the  nipper,  around 
the  messenger  and  held  by  a  boy ;  then  round 
both  ;  the  other  end  is  wormed  around  the  cable,  as 
the  first  was  around  the  messenger.  When  the  strain 
becomes  heavy,  racking,  and  even  round  turns  may- 
be used,  having  also  small  heavers,  and  selvages  to 
secure  the  ends,  taking  care  to  have  dry  ones  ready 

to  use  when  the  cable  is  up  and  down. 

12* 


# 

138  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

258.   To  Splice  an  Old  Cable  to  a  New  One. 

Take  the  old  one  to  the  rope  walk  ;  unlay  the  ends 
and  splice  them  to  the  ends  of  the  new  one  with  a 
long  splice,  after  which  lay  up  the  latter. 


259.   To  Cut  and  Pass  a  Messenger. 

The  length  should  be  equal  to  twice  the  distance 
from  the  after  part  of  the  capstern  to  the  roller  in  the 
manger,  added  to  four  times  the  circumference  of  the 
capstern  band  ;  this  is  sufficient  for  splicing  in  the 
eyes  and  taking  the  turns.  The  messenger  is  passed 
with  three  round  turns,  and  then  the  eyes  are  lashed 
with  the  lanyard  figure  of  8  fashion,  the  part  which 
is  brought  to  the  cable  is  undermost. 


260.   To  Dip  a  Messenger. 

Cast  oflf  the  lashing,  slack  up  the  turns  and  pass 
the  eye  up  or  down,  as  necessary.  Between  the  turns 
and  capstern,  render  the  turns  through  each  other 
and  pass  the  lashing  again. 


261.  To  Get  the  Guns  on  Board. 
Have  the  gun  carriages  and  all  the  equipments 


belonging  to  them  brought  alongside  in  lighters  ; 
hoist  them  in  with  the  yard  and  stay,  and  get  them 
on  their  respective  decks,  brace  up  the  main  yard, 
over  the  port  through  which  the  guns  are  to  be  taken 
in,  and  secure  as  for  getting  up  the  waist  anchor, 
with  the  addition  of  using  another  pendant  tackle", 
the  double  block  of  which  is  used  to  hook  to  a  strop 
passed  around  the  lower  cap,  and  the  single  one  to  a 
strop  just  within  the  place  where  the  bull's  eye  for 
the  pendant  is  to  be  lashed  on.  Lash  on  the  bull's 
eye,  between  the  single  block  of  the  pendant  tackle, 
and  reeve  a  pendant  tackle  like  the  one  which  was 
used  for  the  waist  anchor.  A  hole  is  bored  through 
the  spar  deck  if  a  frigate,  but  if  a  line  of  battle  ship 
through  the  spar  and  main  deck  abreast  the  gangway 
port,  and  the  gurnet  rove  down  through.  A  hook 
and  thimble  is  spliced  in  the  lower  end  of  the  gur- 
net, and  a  thimble  in  the  upper  end,  which  is  hook- 
ed to  the  main  pendant  tackle.  Make  the  slings  of 
breeching  stuff,  and  seize  an  eye  on  the  bight,  large 
enough  to  go  over  the  breech  of  the  gun,  put  over  the 
eye,  and  put  the  slings  along  the  upper  part  of  the 
gun,  lashing  them  with  a  piece  of  rope  around  all 
just  forward  of  the  trunnion  ;  bend  a  hawser  also  to 
weigh  the  gun,  in  the  event  of  parting  the  purchase,  and 
lash  the  purchase  block  to  the  bight  of  the  slings  ; 
*'S\vayaway,"  and  drop  thelighterfromunderthe gun, 
and  when  the  breech  is  as  high  as  the  port,  hook  the 


140  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

garnet  and  athwartsliip  tackle  to  the  breeching  ring 
rouse  in,  run  a  carriage  under,  lower  away,  place  the 
trunnions  fair,  clamp  them,  come  up  the  purchases 
and  transport  the  gun  to  its  port ;  get  all  lower  and 
main  deck  guns  in  the  same  way.  The  carronades 
are  taken  in  over  the  rail,  a  toggle  is  put  in  the  muz- 
zle, one  bight  of  the  slings  over  the  cascabel,  the 
other  over  the  muzzle,  and  back  lashed  to  the  tog- 
gle,, the  stay  or  purchase  block  is  lashed  on  midships 
of  the  slings,  and  the  stay  or  pendant  tackle  to  the 
same  place,  consequently  the  gun  will  come  in 
square,  have  the  slide  and  bed  ready,  place  it  fair  and 
drive  in  the  naval  bolt.  Ship  the  screws,  beds  and 
coins,  reeve  the  breeching,  hook  side  and  train  tackles, 
see  the  guns  square  in  the  ports,  and  secure  them  there. 
Note.  The  reason  for  having  an  additional  secu- 
rity on  the  main  yard  is,  because  in  getting  in  guns 
the  strain  is  altogether  on  the  yard,  while  in  getting 
up  the  anchors,  which  are  of  the  same  weight  as  a 
gun  nearly,  the  strain  is  divided  between  two  yards. 
The  main  deck  guns  might  be  taken  in  over  the 
rail  and  struck  down  the  main  hatch. 


262.   To  Ship  and  Unship  a  Rudder. 

Have  the  rudder  brought  under  the  stern  in  a 
scow. .  Bore  a  hole  through  a  beam  or  carline  over 


141 

the  rudder  case.  Drive  an  eye  bolt  up  through  it, 
and  fit  a  washer  and  forelock.  Strop  a  large  single 
block  with  hook  and  thimble,  and  hook  it  to  the 
eye  bolt,  reeve  a  top  pendant  through  the  single 
block,  down  through  the  rudder  case,  and  hitch  it 
to  an  eye  bolt,  which  is  temporarily  fitted  into  the 
rudder  head.  Clap  a  deck  tackle  on  to  the  other  end 
of  the  pendant,  have  heel  ropes  leading  forward  on 
each  side,  being  rove  through  their  respective  holes 
in  the  rudder;  man  the  deck  tackle  fall  and  hoist 
away.  When  the  rudder  is  high  enough,  guy  it  fair,  see 
the  pintles  fair  for  entering  the  gudgeons,  and  lower, 
fit  in  the  wood  lock.  Come  up  the  pendant,  unreeve 
the  heel  ropes,  take  the  bolt  from  the  rudder  head, 
the  one  from  the  beam  or  carline  above,  ship  the 
tiller,  and  reeve  the  wheel  ropes. 

To  unship  it.  Fit  the  bolts,  single  block,  pen- 
dant and  deck  tackles  as  before,  unreeve  the  wheel 
ropes,  unship  the  tiller,  knock  out  the  wood  lock 
and  sway  away,  when  the  pintles  are  clear  of  the 
gudgeons,  lower  away,  secure  it  to  the  scow  or 
lighter,  tow  it  on  shore,  parbuckle  or  hoist  it  out  of 
the  water. 


263.    To  Bend  ^ails  and  Staij  Sails.^ 
Call  all  hands  to  bend  sails,  get  the  courses,  jib, 


142  KEDGE  ANCHOR,   OR 

topsail,  and  spanker  on  deck.  Open  them  out,  and  see 
that  they  are  whole,  that  the  bowline  bridles,  head 
and  reef  earings,  rope  bands,  reef  points,  sheet  clew- 
line, and  reef  tackle  blocks,  are  in  their  proper  places ; 
bight  the  topsails  down  in  slings  abaft  their  respec- 
tive masts,  with  the  clews  out  and  that  yard  arm 
uppermost,  opposite  the  side  on  which  they  are  to 
be  sent  aloft,  round  up  the  flyblock  of  the  topsail 
halyards,  high  enough  for  the  lower  block  to  take 
the  topsail  clear  of  the  top  rail,  and  rack  the  tye  se- 
curely to  a  back  stay.  Hook  the  lower  block  of  the 
topsail  halyard  to  the  slings,  also  a  snatch  block, 
which  mouse.  Reeve  the  halyard  through  the  snatch 
block,  then  through  another  farther  aft,  and  it  will 
serve  as  a  jack  stay  to  keep  the  sail  clear  of  the  top 
as  it  goes  up.  Sway  aloft  the  topsail  and  get  it  into 
the  forward  part  of  the  top.  Overhaul  down  the  hal- 
yards, hook  and  haul  them  taut,  reeve  and  bend  the 
sheets,  clewlines,  buntlines,  reef  tackles  and  bow- 
lines. Stop  the  head  of  the  sail  to  the  buntlines,  hook 
the  double  block  of  a  luff  to  a  strop  on  the  yard  arm, 
the  single  one  to  the  first  reef  cringle,  stopping  the 
head  earings,  to  the  standing  part.  Overhaul  the 
course,  athwart  the  deck,  seize  on  the  sheet,  tack  and 
clue  garnet  blocks,  reeve  and  bend  the  geer.  Stop  the 
head  of  the  sail  to  the  buntlines,  use  the  top  burtons 
for  yard  ropes,  hooking  through  the  first  reef  cringle, 
stopping  the  head  earings  to  the  standing  parts.  Turn 


143 

the  block  out  of  the  end  of  the  jib  stay,  and  bend  on 
a  line,  bring  the  end  in  on  the  forecastle,  stop  the 
luff  of  the  jib,  seize  on  the  halyard  block,  reeve  the 
halyards  and  downhauls,  fit  the  brail  bloek,  reeve  the 
brails,  seize  on  the  sheet  pendants,  and  reeve  the 
sheets,  lower  the  spanker  gaff,  pass  the  throat  and 
peak  earings,  and  lace  the  head  to  the  gaff.  Seize 
on  the  brails,  reeve  them  and  the  outhauler. 
To  man  the  gear.  Man  the  jib  halyards  and 
downhaul,  yard  ropes,  clew  garnets,  clewlines,  bunt- 
lines,  reef  tackles  and  gaff  halyards,  run  out  the  jib, 
reeve  and  set  up  the  stay  and  seize  the  tack,  sway 
the  topsails  and  courses,  up  to  the  yards,  where  some 
hands  are  ready  to  receive  them,  bend  the  gear  and 
haul  out,  then  take  a  turn  with  the  earings,  ride 
down  the  heads,  then  pass  the  earings  exactly,  make 
fast  the  rope  bands,  fit  the  leachline  block  of  the 
courses,  seize  on  and  reeve  the  leechline.  Some 
hands  are  employed  in  seizing  on  the  hoops  to  the 
luff  of  the  spanker  as  it  goes  aloft.  Let  all  the  sails 
fall,  to  see  if  the  gear  is  bent  clear,  clew  up  and  furl 
the  courses  and  topsails,  stow  jib  and  spanker. 

The  top  gallant  sails,  royals  and  studding  sails, 
are  bent  on  deck.  Send  the  stay  sails  into  the  tops, 
fit  the  jack  stays  and  tricing  line  blocks,  to  the  lat- 
ter, seize  the  head  of  the  luff,  reeve  the  halyards, 
downhauls  and  brails,  bend  the  tacks  and  sheets,  stow 
the  stay  sails,  and  haul  all  taut. 


144  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

264.   To  Bend  Fhjhig  Jib  and  Fore    Top  Mast 
Stay  Sail. 

These  sails  are  bent  like  the  jib,  excepting  that 
the  fore  topmast  spring  stay,  is  not  come  up. 

Note.  In  running  out  the  jib,  it  is  necessary  to 
pass  a  strop  around  the  body  of  the  sail,  and  to  this 
hook  the  halyards  and  dowhaul  now  by  hoisting  on 
halyards,  and  running  out  on  the  downhaul,  and  a 
rope  which  is  bent  to  the  end  of  the  stay  the  sail 
goes  out  fair. 

265.    To  Carry  Out  an  Anchor  with  a  Boat. 

Hang  the  anchor  to  the  stern  of  the  boat,  by  good 
stoppers,  having  a  buoy  rope  and  buoy  to  it,  pass 
the  end  of  the  cable  or  hawser  out  through  the 
hawse  hole,  and  coil  enough  of  it  away  in  the  bows 
of  the  boat  to  reach  the  bottom.  Now  capsize  the 
coil,  bight  by  bight  in  the  stern  sheets,  and  then 
the  end  will  be  uppermost,  bend  the  cable  or  hawser 
in  board,  when  in  the  right  place,  heave  over  the 
buoy  and  see  that  the  buoy  rope  is  clear,  stand  clear 
of  the  cable  and  slip  the  stoppers. 


266.    To  Haul  Off  and  Moor  Ship. 
Before  hauling  off,  hoist  in  and  stow  the  spare 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  145 

spars,  securing  them  by  gripes,  place  the  boat's 
chocks,  get  on  board  all  stores,  and  the  complement 
of  men  from  the  receiving  ship,  get  tip  kedges  and 
hawsers,  ready  for  instant  service,  see  the  boats  pro- 
vided with  crews,  oars,  and  sails.  Run  out  a  kedge, 
and  drop  it  where  the  first  or  weather  anchor 
is  to  be  planted.  Have  guys  from  the  ship  to 
the  shore,  single  the  fasts,  hang  over  fenders  and  out 
riggers,  man  the  hawser,  cast  ofi"  the  fasts  and  warp 
off,  checking  her  as  necessary  by  the  guys,  run  the 
kedge  up  to  the  bows  and  let  go  the  weather  anchor, 
veer  too  as  fast  as  she  will  take  it,  assisting  her  in 
going  astern  by  the  mizen  topsail  if  necessary.  If 
to  shoot  her  to  either  side,  use  the  helm,  jib  or  spanker, 
and  in  case  there  is  no  wind,  use  kedges  and  hawsers, 
when  a  double  scope  is  out,  stopper  the  cable,  and 
let  go  the  second  anchor,  furl  the  mizen  topsail,  bring 
too  on  the  weather  cable  and  heave  in  to  the  moor- 
ings, moor  a  little  taut  to  allow  for  veering,  clap  on 
service,  and  veer  it  to  the  hawse-hole  if  a  hemp  cable. 


267.    Getting  in  the  Spare  Spars. 

In  hoisting  in  the  spare  spars,  use  the  yard  and 
stay  tackles,  across  each  other,  the  main  being  hook- 
ed forward,  and  the  fore  abaft.  This  is  done,  because 
the  spars  are  too  long  to  come  directly  in  between 
the  fore  and  main  rigging  ;  by  bousing  upon  one  of 


146  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

the  stay  tackles,  the  spar  is  brought  far  enough  for- 
ward or  aft  to  allow  the  other  end  to  come  up  and 
in,  when  the  operation  is  reversed.  In  stowing  the 
spare  topmast,  lay  the  heads  of  the  main  and  mizen 
abaft,  and  the  head  of  the  fore,  forward,  and  they 
will  be  ready  for  pointing. 


268.     Station  the  Crew. 

In  dividing  the  crew  into  watches,  care  should  be 
taken  that  the  physical  force  is  as  equally  distributed 
as  possible,  and  there  be  as  many  seamen,  ordinary 
seamen,  landsmen,  boys,  and  marines,  in  one  watch, 
as  in  the  other. 

Petty  officers  should  be  chosen  from  among  the 
seamen,  selected  from  those  who  have  been  long  in 
the  service,  and  who  have  proved  faithful.  Fore 
castle  men  should  be  middle  aged  seamen,  with  a  few 
ordinary  seamen  and  landsmen.  Topmen,  young 
active  seamen,  a  few  ordinary  seamen,  landsmen  and 
boys.  After  guard,  a  few  elderly  seamen,  with  ordi- 
nary seamen  and  landsmen.  Waisters,  chiefly  lands- 
men, with  a  few  ordinary  seamen  ;  in  single  decked 
ships,  where  there  are  no  waisters,  more  men  should 
be  stationed  on  the  fore  castle  and  in  the  after  guard, 
than  there  would  be  in  proportion  on  board  of  a 
line  of  battle  ship,  or  frigate  ;  idlers  are  excused  from 
watch.    They  are  officer's  servants,  cooks,  <fcc. 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT. 


147 


Divide  each  watch  into  first  and  second  parts, 
appoint  a  captain  to  each  part,  number  the  men  be- 
longing to  the  fore  castle,  having  all  the  larboard 
watch  even,  as  two,  four,  six,  and  the  starboard,  odd, 
as  one,  three,  five ;  have  the  numbers  painted  on  can- 
vass, and  let  each  man  sew  it  on  his  bag  and  ham- 
mocks, having  also  for  greater  distinction,  the  lar- 
board painted  red,  and  the  starboard  black.  The  men 
should  be  below  alternately,  so  that  when  one  watch 
is  below  there  should  be  an  equal  number  on  each 
side. 

In  each  watch,  line  of  battle  ship,  frigate,  and  sloop 
of  war 


Line  of  Battle  Ship. 

Frigate. 

Sloop  of  War. 

Fore  castle. 
Pore  &  Main  top. 
Mizen  top. 

Generally  about  40  men. 
'•             «'      40    » 

About  30  men. 
"     30    « 
»      20    '« 

About  14  men. 
"      14    " 
u     12    <i 

269.     Station  the  Crew  at  Quarters, 

Choose  for  the  captains  of  your  guns,  seamen  who 
have  been  long  accustomed  to  them,  steady,  with 
good  sight,  and  quick  motion.  The  boarders  should 
be  stout  men.  The  firemen  and  sail  trimmers,  young 
and  active  men.  The  largest  and  stoutest  men  should 
be  chosen  to  man  the  long  guns,  the  others  the  carron- 
nades.     Be  particular  to  station  them  as  near  where 


148  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

they  are  accustomed  to  do  their  duty  as  possible,  in 
order  to  prevent  confusion.  Let  all  the  first  part  of 
the  gun's  crew  be  in  one  watch,  and  the  second  part 
in  the  other,  so  that  in  the  event  of  going  to  quarters 
^  the  night,  the  watch  on  deck  can  clear  away  the 
guns,  while  the  watch  below  clear  away  the  ham- 
mocks. 


270.     To  a  Twelve  pound  Carronnade 

Are  stationed  four  men  and  one  boy.  All  the  men 
stationed  at  the  long  guns  of  a  double  decked  ship, 
should  be  armed  with  cutlasses,  and  called  boarders, 
the  first  of  the  gun's  crew  to  be  called  second  boarders, 
and  "  vice  versa."  They  are  only  to  be  called  when 
required  to  board,  or  in  case  of  great  emergency,  to 
repel  boarders,  and  then  every  man  will  repair  to  the 
upper  deek,  except  the  firemen,  quarter  gunners,  and 
powder  boys,  who  will  remain  below  to  protect  the 
ports,  or  to  assist  in  extinguishing  a  fire. 

All  the  men  stationed  at  the  carronnades  should 
be  boarders  and  sail  trimmers.  As  boarders,  the  first 
part  should  be  armed  with  pikes,  the  second  part  with 
small  arms,  and  are  to  repel  the  boarders,  but  not  to 
quit  the  ship. 

All  the  men  stationed  of  a  single  decked  ship,  are 
boarders  ;  the  first  part  to  be  armed  with  cutlasses. 


149 


the  second  part  with  pikes.  The  battery  being 
manned,  distribute  the  rest  of  the  crew  as  follows  : 
have  a  quarter  master  at  the  signals  when  in  a  squad- 
ron, topmen  and  marines  in  the  tops,  to  repair  dam- 
ages, and  act  as  small  arm  men.  A  quarter  master 
and  two  men  at  the  relieving  tackles,  men  stationed 
at  the  passages,  to  pass  full  and  empty  boxes  ;  also 
others  at  the  shot  lockers.  Mast  men  to  see  the  rig- 
ging clear,  cook  and  armourer  at  the  galley,  the  car- 
penter and  his  mates  at  the  pumps  and  wings,  the 
master  at  arms  and  ship's  corporal  in  the  light  room, 
the  gunner,  his  mates,  quarter  gunners,  and  cooper, 
in  the  magazine,  the  surgeon  and  assistants  in  the 
cock  pit. 

271.     Station  the  Crew  for  Mooring  and  Unmoor- 
ing. 

In  stationing  the  men,  place  the  same  number  of 
men  of  each  watch  to  perform  a  piece  of  duty.  Have 
quarter  masters  at  the  signals,  when  in  a  squadron, 
in  the  chains,  at  the  lookout ;  men  at  the  wheel, 
quarter  gunners  to  overhaul  the  fish  and  grapple  the 
buoys,  men  to  overhaul  and  hook  the  cat,  attend  back 
ropes  ;  also  others  at  the  mast  to  see  the  rigging 
clear.  Boatswain's  mates  in  the  gangways,  carpen- 
ters to  ship  and  unship  capstan  bars,  attend  stan- 
chions, with  the  music  At  the  capstan — some  fore  top- 

13* 


ft^'.»^ 


150  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 


men  to  put  on  nippers,  some  main  topmen  to  take  them- 
ofij  and  boys  to  carry  them  forward.  Men  to  rouse 
up  and  veer  away  cable,  to  attend  stoppers  and  light 
forward  the  messenger.  The  yeoman  in  the  store 
rooms,  master  at  arms  and  ship's  corporal-on  the  berth 
deck,  and  cook  at  the  galley.  Tierers  in  each  tier, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  men  at  the  capstan. 


272.     Station  the  Men — Loosing  and  Purling. 

Take  the  same  number  of  men  from  each  watch, 
and  station  them  at  the  same  rope,  <fcc.  The  topmen 
are  to  man  their  respective  yards,  hands  are  to  attend 
the  boom  jiggers  and  tricing  lines,  fore  castle  men  to 
attend  head  sails  and  foresail,  main  yard  men  to  look 
out  for  the  main  sail,  after  guard  for  the  spanker  and 
mizen  stay  sail,  for  the  main  topmast  stay  sail,  the 
fore  castle  men  ;  for  the  main  stay  sail,  the  gunner's 
crew,  men  stationed  to  sheet  home  and  hoist  the  top- 
sails, and  when  coming  to  anchor  the  same  men  to 
man  the  clewlines,  buntlines,  and  weather  braces ; 
and  when  loosing  sails  to  dry,  to  man  bowlines  or 
buntlines,  in  furling,  the  captains  are  to  be  in  the  bunt. 


273.     Station  the  Creiofor  Tacking  and  Veering, 
Station  the  men  from  the  watch  bill,  have  hands 


<?>.„^;i 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  151 

at  the  jib  boom  end,  to  overhaul  jib  brails  and  light 
over  jib  sheets.  On  the  bowsprit  end  to  light  over 
jib  pendants,  hands  on  the  bumpkins  and  in  the 
chains,  to  overhaul  tacks  and  sheets,  and  back  stay- 
falls.  On  deck,  at  the  wheel,  sprit  sail  braces,  jib 
sheets,  jib  brails,  braces,  bowlines,  clew  garnets,  tacks 
and  sheets,  back  stay  falls,  lifts,  trusses,  spanker 
sheets,  guys,  vang  and  topping  lifts.  Aloft  to  over- 
haul lifts  and  trusses,  attend  outriggers,  and  bear  the 
backstays  abaft  and  abreast,  the  mast  men  to  see  the 
rigging  clear,  dec. 


274.  Station  the  Crew  for  Reefing, 

Tiie  men  are  stationed  as  in  furling,  except  the 
captains,  who  are  at  the  earings ;  when  the  yards  are 
down,  the  men  from  the  clewlines  and  buntlines, 
will  haul  out  the  reef  tackles. 


275.     To  Mark  the  Lead  Line. 

At  two  fathoms,  two  strips  of  leather,  at  three 
fathoms  three  strips  of  leather,  at  five  fathoms  a 
white  rag,  at  seven  fathoms  a  red  rag,  at  ten  fathoms, 
a  piece  of  leather  with  a  hole  in  it,  at  thirteen  the 
same  as  three,  at  fifteen  the  same  as  five,  at  seven- 


152  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

teen  the  same  as  seven,  at  twenty  fathoms,  two  knots 
and  then  one  knot  for  every  ten  fathoms. 


276.     To  make  the  Log  Line. 

Allow  twelve  fathoms  for  stray  line,  where  stick  in 
a  white  rag,  then  at  every  47  feet  and  6  tenths, 
mark  the  line  as  follows,  viz.,  at  1,  one  leather, 
at  2,  two  knots,  at  3,  three  knots,  having  a  mark 
also  at  every  half  knot.  The  glasses  should 
be  proved  with  a  good  watch,  having  a  second  hand. 
The  principle  of  the  log  line  is,  that  the  knot  is  the 
same  part  of  a  sea  mile,  that  half  a  minute  is  of  an 
hour,  therefore  the  length  of  a  knot  should  be  one 
one  hundred  and  twentieth  the  length  of  a  sea  mile, 
or  fifty  one  feet,  but  as  it  is  more  convenient  to  have 
the  knot  divided  into  eight  parts,  of  six  feet  each,  the 
proportional  reduction  is  necessary  in  the  glass. 
Therefore  as  fifty  one  feet :  30  seconds  : :  48  feet  : 
28  4-1 7  seconds,  but  as  the  fraction  can  more  easily 
be  allowed  in  the  line  than  the  glass,  another  pro- 
portion  is  necessary,  viz.,  as,  28  4-17  seconds  :  48 
feet : :  28  seconds  to  47.6  feet,  or  the  length  of  a 
knot. 


277.     To  Clear  Hawse. 
Call  all  hands,  "  clear  hawse,"  have  the  starboard 


163 

watch  on  "deck,  and  the  larboard  watch  below  in  a 
double  decked  ship.  Lash  a  stout  single  block  to 
the  bowsprit,  and  reeve  the  clear  hawse  pendant 
through  it,  haul  the  launch  under  the  bows,  or  if 
there  is  too  much  sea  on,  or  she  is  not  out,  send  a 
hand  down  in  a  bowline,  and  hook  the  pendant  to 
the  riding  cable,  below  the  turn,  and  bouse  them  up 
clear  of  the  water,  after  which  pass  a  stout  lashing 
around  both  cables.  If  there  should  be  much  sea 
on,  or  the  wind  flawey  and  variable,  it  would  be 
well  to  pass  the  end  of  a  hawser  out  of  the  hawse- 
hole  and  hitch  it  to  the  cable  ;  to  relieve  the  lashing, 
reeve  ropes  through  blocks  on  each  side  of  the  bow- 
sprit end,  for  bowlines,  and  pass  them  in  at  the 
hawse  hole,  so  as  to  take  out  an  elbow.  For  ex- 
ample. Suppose  the  starboard  was  the  clearing 
cable,  and  it  was  under  the  other,  take  the  larboard 
bowline  down  under  the  cable,  up  into  the  starboard 
hawse  hole,  and  the  starboard  one  over  to  the  lar- 
board side  of  the  cable,  then  follow  the  lead  of  the 
larboard  bowline,  bend  on  several  fathoms  inside  and 
stop  along  to  the  hawse  hole,  draw  the  splice,  bend 
on  hawse  rope,  oif  stoppers,  and  run  out,  hang  the 
bights  to  the  bowsprit,  with  slip  ropes,  and  send  in 
the  bowlines  again,  the  same  way  as  before,  when 
the  end  is  out  f*  cast  off"  and  dip  it  fair  and  bend  on 
again  to  the  end  of  the  cable,  rouse  in,  slack  down 
the  slip  ropes,  and  splice  the  cable,  haul  it  taut  with 


154  HEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

a  deck  tackle,  bitt  and  stopper,  cast  off  the  hawser 
unlash  the  cable,  unreeve  the  clear  hawse  pendant, 
unlash  the  block  from  the  bowsprit  end,  clear  up 
the  deck,  and  pipe  down. 


278.  Note. 

If  there  is  a  round  turn  and  an  elbow  in 
the  hawse  after  rousing  the  cable,  repeat  the  opera- 
tion as  before,  it  is  always  well  to  prevent  confusion, 
to  take  out  one  elbow  at  a  time.  A  cross  is  when 
the  cables  lay  across  each  other,  or  when  the  ship 
has  swung  foul  once  ;  an  elbow  is  two  crosses,  and 
around  turn  is  three  crosses :  around  turn  and  elbow 
is  five  crosses,  it  can  readily  be  seen  thus,  in  clear- 
ing hawse  with  a  round  turn,  a  cross  will  be  left  in 
the  cables. 


279.    To  Weigh  an  Anchor  With  the  Launch, 

This  may  be  done  by  underrunning,  when  the 
ship  has  slipped,  or  weighing  by  the  buoy  rope, 
when  the  anchor  lies  in  too  shoal  water  for  the  ship 
to  be  hove  up  to  it. 

Ship  the  roller  on  the  stern  of  the  launch,  take 
strong  tackles  with  a  jigger  also,  and  some  good  rope 


155 

for  stoppers,  get  the  end  of  the  cable  over  the  roller, 
hook  the  double  block  of  the  tackle  to  a  strop  passed 
around  it,  the  single  one  to  a  bolt  in  the  bows,  and 
man  the  fall,  and  as  the  cable  comes  in,  French  flake 
it  along  the  athwarts,  when  the  tackle  comes  two 
blocks,  stopper  and  fleet,  when  the  cable  is  up  and 
down  clap  the  jigger  on  the  fall  of  the  tackle,  and 
heave  the  boat's  stern  well  down  in  the  water  and 
stopper  securely,  send  all  the  men  into  the  bows  of 
the  boat,  jump  the  boat  and  break  ground,  then  man 
the  fall  again,  ofi"  stopper  and  heave  up,  when  the 
ring  is  above  water,  pass  a  short  ring  stopper,  and 
haul  the  buoy  on  board,  when  along  side,  hook  the 
cat,  and  cat  the  anchor,  get  the  end  of  the  cable  un- 
clinched,  and  passed  into  the  hawse,  and  haul  the 
remainder  out  of  the  launch. 


280.   To  Weigh  with  a  Buoy  Rope. 

Get  the  buoy  rope  over  the  roller,  clap  on  a  tackle, 
and  weigh  the  anchor  as  before.  When  it  is  secured, 
man  the- capstan,  heave  the  launch  in  under  the  bows 
and  cat  the  anchor. 

Note.  Anchors  are  sometimes  weighed  with  the 
buoy  rope,  when  the  cable  has  parted  and  the  end 
cannot  be  grappled  ;  when  this  is  the  case,  the  anchor 
may  be  weighed  with  the  launch,  brought  under  ihe 


166  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

bows  and  catted,  the  cable  unclinched  and  hove  in, 
or  the  ship  might  be  warped  over  the  buoy  and  the 
cat  fall  taken  to  the  buoy  rope. 


281.   To  Take  in  a  Launch, 

Brace  and  secure  the  yards,  the  same  as  for  getting 
up  the  anchors,  also  rig  the  same  purchases,  place 
the  chocks,  pass  every  thing  out  of  the  launch,  and 
hook  the  purchases  to  spans,  have  a  couple  of  hands 
in  the  boat  to  keep  her  clear  of  the  ship's  side,  man 
the  yard  tackle  falls,  and  have  a  few  hands  to  take 
in  the  slack  of  the  stay  falls,  walk  away,  and  when 
the  boat  leaves  the  water,  take  out  the  plug,  when 
high  enough  to  clear  the  waist  anchor  stock,  haul 
over  the  main  stay,  easing  away  the  fore  and  main 
yards,  when  the  stern  is  over  the  deck,  haul  over  the 
forestay,  lower  and  place  her  in  the  chocks.  The  other 
boats  may  be  got  in  by  the  same  purchases,  the 
launch  is  stowed  on  the  larboard  side,  the  first  cutter 
on  the  starboard  side,  the  second  cutter  inside  the 
launch,  the  third  cutter  inside  the  first ;  when  all  are 
in,  unrig  the  purchases,  square  the  yards  and  set  up 
the  gripes. 

The  quarter  and  stern  boats  are  hoisted  up  to  thr 
davits  and  secured  to  them,  by  stoppers,  and  the 
gripes  are  set  up. 


i%^' 


YOUNG  sailor's  assistant.  157 

282.   To  Take  in  Boats  at  Both  Sides  at  Once. 

The  yards  are  kept  square  and  secured  on  both 
sides,  by  the  lifts,  burtons,  and  quarter  lifts.  Use  the 
winding  and  stay  tackles  for  the  heaviest  boats,  the 
yard  tackles  for  the  lightest  ones,  the  top  sail  hal- 
yards forward  and  the  main  pendant  tackle  aft  acting 
as  stays  to  bring  them  on  board.  Come  up  the  for- 
ward back  stays  as  they  would  interfere  with  the 
bows  of  the  boats,  afteV  which  proceed  as  before. 

Note.  To  take  in  a  boat  at  sea,  back  the  main 
topsail,  get  the  boat  to  leeward,  secure  the  lower  yards 
as  before  directed,  and  hoist  her  in.  She  coming  in  to 
leeward,  tackles  will  be  necessary  to  get  her  to  wind- 
ward sufficiently  to  lower  away.  When  before  the 
wind,  a  boat  might  be  got  in,  by  securing  the  yards 
as  before,  and  taking  a  hawser  from  aft,  to  the  stern 
of  the  boat,  to  keep  her  from  sending  forward  when 
she  leaves  the  water,  and  thereby  endangering  the 
yards. 


283.   To  Unmoor  Ship.  ^^ 

See  that  tha  hawse  is  clear,  and  overhaul  a  range 
of  the  weather  cable,  get  up  nippers,  pass  the  mes- 
senger, knock  up  the  slancheons,  ship  the  gratings, 
ship   and  swifter  in  the  capstan  bars,  rig  the  fish 

davit,  overhaul  cat  and  fish,  "Call  all  hands  un- 

14 


158  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

moor  ship,"  have  leadsmen  in  the  chains,  men  at 
the  wheel,  man  the  bars,  brino^  too  on  the  lee  cable, 
heave  taut,  off  stoppers,  unbit  and  heave  in,  veer 
away  on  the  weather  cable ;  when  the  lee  cable  is  up 
and  down,  stopper  the  former,  heave  up,  pall  the 
capstern,  hook  the  cat  and  walk  away.  When  high 
enough,  surge  the  messenger,  pass  cat  head  stopperSj^ 
grapple  the  buoy,  hook  the  fish,  walk  away  ;  when 
high  enough,  pass  shank  painter,  dip  the  messenger, 
bring  too  on  the  other  cable,  and  heave  in  to  the  old 
service — clear  up  the  decks. 


284.    W7ien  the  Messenger  Strands^  or  is  likely  to 
Part, 

If  the  messenger  is  likely  to  part  from  the  great 
strain,  stopper  immediately,  and  either  pass  a  new 
one,  or  reeve  a  viol,  assisting  it  with  cat  fall.  Lash 
the  viol  block  to  the  cable  near  the  hause  hole,  clinch 
one  end  of  the  hawser  to  the  main  mast,  snatch  the 
bight  to  the  block  and  take  the  other  end  to  the  cap- 
starn.  Pass  a  strop  around  the  cable  close  down  to 
the  water,  hook  the  cat  to  it,  and  heave  up  by  the 
viol  and  cat  fall.  If  the  messenger  should  strand, 
stopper  immediately,  cut  it,  then  knot  or  splice  it. 


285.    Leeward   Tide  to   Get    Under    Weigh  and 
Stand   Out  on  a  Wind. 

Overhaul  a  range  of  the  cable  by  which  she  is  not 
riding,  get  the  anchor  ready  for  letting  go,  have 
hands  attending  the  stoppers,  pass  the  messenger, 
knock  up  the  stancheons,  ship  the  gratings,  ship  and 
swifter  the  capstan  bars,  rig  the  fish  davit,  reeve  and 
overhaul  the  cat  and  fish.  "  Call  all  hands  up  anchor," 
have  leadsmen  in  the  chains  and  men  at  the  wheel, 
man  the  bars,  bring  too,  heave  taut,  off  stoppers,  un- 
bitt  and  heave  in,  when  into  a  small  scope,  pall. 
"Aloft  sail  loosers,"  and  loose  all  sail,  sheet  home  and 
hoist  the  topsails.  If  riding  by  the  starboard  cable  and 
no  impediment  to  port,  it  will  be  most  eligible,  to 
cast  her  on  the  starboard  tack,  as  the  cable  will  then 
be  clear  of  the  cutwater,  and  the  ship  being  to  leeward 
of  her  anchor,  it  can  be  more  easily  catted  and  fish- 
ed. If  there  should  be  much  sea  on,  this  would  be 
the  best  plan. 

Having  determined  to  cast  on  the  starboard  tack, 
overhaul  lifts,  trusses  and  backstay  fiills.  The  foretop- 
sail  being  put  aback  by  the  starboard  braces,  the 
main  and  mizen  by  the  wind,  with  the  larboard 
after  braces,  heaving  around  briskly,  and  before 
breakino:  orround,  give  her  a  sheer  with  the  starboard 

DO  '   C3 

helm,  when  up,  hoisfthe  jib,  keeping  the  helm  a 
starboard,  until  the  stern  board  exceeds  the  veloQity 


160  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 


^ 


of  the  tide,  when  shift  it  and  g^rapple  the  buoy,  when 
she  has  fallen  off,  so  as  to  fill  the  after  sails,  let  flow 
the  jib  sheet,  haul  out  the  spanker,  set  top  gallant 
sails  and  courses,  trim  the  yards  and  sails  properly. 
To  cast  off  on  the  larboard  tack  put  the  helm  a  port, 
and  brace  the  yards  the  contrary  way. 


286.   To   Get    Under    Weigh  and  Stand  Before 
the  Wind* 

Make  all  preparations  for  getting  under  weigh, 
heave  in  and  make  sail  as  before.  Lay  the  main 
and  mizen  topsails  square  aback,  the  fore  one  sharp 
aback  according  to  the  side  it  is  intended  to  cast, 
heave  in,  cant  her  the  right  way  with  the  helm  be- 
fore tripping,  and  as  soon  as  the  velocity  of  the  stern 
board  is  greater  than  that  of  the  tide,  shift  the  helm, 
grapple  the  buoy,  run  up  the  jib  as  soon  as  it  will 
take,  haul  aft  the  weather  jib  sheet.  While  falling  off 
cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  as  she  gathers  head  way  shift 
the  helm,  when  before  the  wind,  right  it,  square  the 
head  yards,  and  brail  up  the  jib,  set  top  gallant  sails, 
royals  and  foresail,  haul  taut  lifts,  trusses,  backstay 
falls,  set  the  studding  sails  if  necessary. 


287.  In  Getting    Under    Weighs  Back  Astern,  to 
Avoid  Danger. 

Make  all  preparations,  heave  in  and  make  sail  as 


161 

before.  If  required  to  cast  on  the  starboard  tack,  sheer 
her  with  the  starboard  helm,  to  bring  the  wind  on 
the  starboard  bow,  brace  the  yards  fore  afid  aft,  aback 
about  half  up  with  the  larboard  braces,  haul  out  the 
spanker  and  keep  the  boom  nearly  amidships,  heave 
up  briskly,  grapple  the  buoy,  and  as  soon  as  the  an- 
chor is  up,  put  the  helm  hard  a  weather  to  keep  her 
too,  cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  having  made  sufficient 
stern  board,  shift  the  helm,  brace  about  the  after 
yards,  ease  off  the  spanker  sheet  and  run  up  the  jib, 
when  full  aft,  brace  round  the  head  yards,  and  as  she 
gathers  head  way,  right  the  helm  and  make  sail.  To 
cast  on  the  larboard  tack,  sheer  her  with  the  port 
helm,  and  brace  all  sharp  aback  and  proceed  as  be- 
fore. 


288.  Get  Under  Weighs  a  Shoal  on  Each  Beam. 

It  becomes  necessary  to  proceed  to  sea,  and  is  im- 
possible, to  weather  either  of  those  abeam  ;  but  there 
is  just  room  to  pass  between  a  shoal  astern  and  either 
of  those  abeam  {blowiiig  fresh.) 

Pass  the  stream  cable  out  of  one  of  the  quarter 
ports,  bend  on  one  end  to  the  cable  and  secure  the 
other  to  the  topsail  sheet  bitts,  draw  the  splice  of  the 
cable,  bend  a  slip  buoy  to  it,  and  heave  it  overboard. 
See  the  stoppers  clear  for  slipping,  stop  the  topsails  to 
14* 


162  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

the  yards  with  spun  yarn,  casting  off  the  gaskets, 
loose  the  courses,  jib  and  spanker,  mast  head  the 
topsail  yards,  man  the  jib  halyards,  shear  her  from 
the  cable,  with  the  helm,  slip  and  run  up  the  jib, 
keep  fast  the  stream  cable,  and  let  her  swing  round  ; 
when  she  heads  for  the  passage,  slip  the  stream  cable, 
right  the  helm,  sheet  home  the  top-ails,  set  the 
courses,  and  other  sails  if  necessary,  then  stand 
through  the  passage. 


289.  Get  Under  Weighs  at  Anchor ^  in  a  Narrow 
Channel, 

At  anchor  in  a  narrow  channel  and  riding  to  a 
strong  leeward  tide  and  blowing  fresh,  a  ship  astern 
and  one  on  each  quarter,  so  near  that  there  is  not 
room  to  veer  after  casting,  it  is  necessary  to  go  to 
sea,  and  to  do  so  a  passage  must  be  effected  between 
the  two  ships. 

Make  all  preparations  for  getting  under  weigh  and 
heave  in  as  described  before,  loose  the  topsails, 
if  riding  by  the  starboard  cable  give  her  a  rank  sheer 
with  the  starboard  helm,  set  up  the  starboard  back- 
stays, bear  aft  the  larboard  ones,  overhaul  lifts  and 
trusses,  haul  out  the  spanker,  and  get  the  boom  over  on 
the  larboard  quarter,  lead  along  main  tack  and  sheet, 
run  the  jib  up,  and  haul  aft  the  weather  sheet,  heave 


163 

round  cheerily,  rim  the  anchor  up,  grapple  the  buoy 
as  soon  as  she  fills,  meet  her  with  the  helm,  board 
the  main  tack  to  catch  her,  trim  the  jib  and  spanker 
sheets,  set  the  foresail  and  trim  sharp,  haul  the  bow- 
lines, and  stand  on  as  far  as  necessar3^ 

Note.  A  great  deal  of  uncertainty  attends  this 
manner,  if  there  is  room  it  would  be  the  best  plan  to 
lay  the  head  yards  aback.  It  is  confidently  asserted, 
by  old  experienced  seamen,  that  the  above  method  is 
perfectly  practicable. 


290.   Head  to  Wind.  Cast  on  Larboard  Tack. 

Make  all  preparations,  heave  in  and  make  sail  as 
before,  sheer  her  with  a  port  helm,  brace  the 
head  yards,  sharp  ujvwith  the  larboard  braces,  and 
counter  brace  the  after  ones,  haul  out  the  spanker 
and  get  the  boom  on  the  starboard  quarter,  heave  in, 
break  ground,  get  the  buoy,  up  jib,  as  soon  as  it  will 
tate,  shift  the  helm,  when  the  sternboard  exceeds  the 
velocity  of  the  tide,  when  the  after  sails  are  full,  trim 
the  spanker,  let  flow  the  jib  sheet,  cat  and  fish  the 
anchor,  haul  aft  the  jib  sheet,  brace  round  the  head 
yards,  and  make  sail. 


291.    Windward    Tide,    Get    Under    Weigh   and 
Stand  Before  the  Wind. 

Make  all  preparation   for  getting  under  weigh, 


164  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

heave  in,  loose  the  jib,  up  anchor,  grapple  the  buoy, 
run  the  jib  up,  cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  and  make 
sail  with  expedition. 

Note.  If  it  was  necessary  to  have  the  ship  under 
greater  command,  and  as  might  be  the  case  in  a  nar- 
row channel  or  crowded  harbour,  it  would  be  better 
to  proceed  as  follows,  heave  in  to  a  short  stay,  loose 
the  courses,  topsails,  jib  and  spanker,  if  riding  by  the 
starboard  cable,  sheer  her  with  the  starboard  helm, 
and  bring  the  wind  on  the  larboard  quarter,  brace 
the  yards  too,  by  the  larboard  braces,  and  keep  them 
shivering  by  the  helm,  heave  up,  fill  the  after  yards  and 
square  the  head  ones,  haul  aft  jib  sheet  on  starboard 
tack,  cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  up  helm,  fill  the  head 
yards,  shiver  the  after  ones,  get  her  before  the  wind, 
and  make  sail. 


292.   To  Get  Under  Weighy  and  Stand  Out  on  a 
Wind. 

Make  all  preparations,  commence  heaving  in, 
loose  jib  and  spanker,  top  up  and  bear  over  the 
spanker  boom  on  the  right  quarter,  and  the  helm  to 
the  side  which  it  is  intended  to  cast,  heave  up,  get 
the  buoy,  haul  out  the  spanker  as  soon  as  it  will  take, 
when  the  wind  gets  abeam,  run  up  the  jib  and  meet 
her  with  the  helm,  cat  and  fish  the  anchor  loose, 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT,  165 

sheet  home,  and  Iioist  the  topsails,  brace  up,  bring 
by  jxnd  make  sail. 


293.  Riding  Head  to  Tide,  Wind  07i  the  iStar- 
board  Quart er,  to  Get  Under  Weigh  on  the 
Starboard  Tack. 

Make  all  preparations,  heave  short,  loose  sails, 
sheet  home  and  hoist  the  lop  sails,  bracing  them  too 
with  the  starboard  braces  ;  keep  them  shivering  by  the 
assistance  of  the  topsails  and  helm,  heave  around, 
break  ground,  put  the  helm  a  starboard,  brace  full 
the  head  yards,  run  up  the  jib,  and  let  her  pay  round 
to  port,  heave  up  the  anchor,  and  grapple  the  buoy, 
haul  out  the  spanker,  as  soon  as  it  will  take,  shift 
over  the  head  sheets,  and  square  the  head  yards, 
trim  aft  the  jib  sheet,  and  meet  her  with  the  helm, 
cat  and  fish  the  anchor  and  make  sail. 


294.     To   Get   Under    Weighs    Wind  Across  the 
Tide. 

To  get  under  weigh,  ebb  tide,  make  all  prepara- 
tions, loose,  sheet  home,  and  hoist  the  topsails,  brace 
up  the  fore  and  mizen  top  sails,  and  lay  the  main 
yard  to  the  mast.  Give  her  a  spoke  or  two  of  lea 
wheel,  so  as  to  take  the  main  topsail  well  abacki 


166  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

heave  the  anchor  up,  cat  and  fish  it,  grapple  the 
buoy,  at  the  same  time  set  the  jib  and  spanker,  fill 
the  main  yard,  stand  on  to  a  convenient  place,  then 
either  tack  or  veer.  The  evolution  is  determined  by 
the  circumstance  of  there  being  more  room  to  wind- 
ward or  to  leeward. 


295.    To  Get  Under  Weigh  Flood  Tide. 

Proceed  as  before  until  the  anchor  is  catted  and 
fished,  then  hoist  the  jib,  haul  out  the  spanker,  fill 
the  main  topsail,  and  stand  out  making  whatever 
sail  may  be  judged  necessary. 


296.    To  Back  and  Fill  in  a  Tide  Way. 

This  manoeuvre  is  only  executed  when  a  ship  is 
to  proceed  up  or  down  a  rapid  river  against  the 
wind,  which  is  supposed  to  be  light  and  may  be 
done  by  two  methods,  viz.,  driving  before  the  wind 
or  broadside  to  it,  when  the  channel  is  broad  enough, 
the  latter  method  is  preferable,  as  the  ship  will  be 
more  under  the  command  of  her  helm. 


297.   To  Drive  Before  the  Wind. 
This  is  only  done  in  a  very  narrow  channel, 


167 

heave  up  the  anchor,  and  get  her  before  the  wind, 
with  just  sail  enough  to  keep  her  so.  Suppose  her, 
under  topsails,  and  as  she  drops  With  the  tide  it  be- 
comes necessary  for  her  to  remain  stationary,  to  al- 
low a  ship  to  pass  her  stern,  set  top  gallant  sails,  and 
if  required  to  shoot  ahead,  drop  the  fore  sail,  if  to 
avoid  a  rock  or  ship  astern,  put  the  helm  up  or 
down,  haul  out  the  spanker,  brace  up,  haul  aft  the 
jib  sheet,  as  she  comes  too;  shoot  across  until  clear 
of  danger,  when  put  the  helm  up,  brail  up  the 
spanker  and  shiver  the  after  yards,  and  when  before 
the  wind  brail  up  the  jib.  If  in  standing  across  she 
should  get  too  near  the  shore,  get  her  on  the  other 
tack,  by  waring  or  box  hauling. 


298.     To  Drive  Broadside  Too. 

Get  under  weigh,  bring  her  by  the  wind  under 
the  jib,  topsails  and  spanker,  shiver  the  topsails, 
when  filled  stand  on  to  the  middle  of  the  channel, 
brail  up  the  jib  and  spanker,  let  her  drift  in  this  situ- 
ation until  she  falls  off  which  she  will  soon  do,  owing 
to  her  greater  immersion  aft  than  forward,  which 
will  drift  her  stern  farther  to  windward,  haul  out  the 
spanker,  and  if  this  is  insufficient,  back  the  mizen 
topsail ;  if  she  still  falls  off,  back  the  main  also,  both 
square  aback,  and  if  she  should  get  a  stern  board,  put 


168  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

the  helm  hard  a  weather,  should  she  come  too  again, 
shiver  the  topsails,  and  brail  up  the  spanker,  letting 
her  drift  as  before. 


299.     To  Secure  the  Ship  for  Sea. 

Take  the  departure,  give  the  course,  and  make 
sail,  beat  to  quarters,  examine  the  magazine,  load, 
shot,  and  secure  the  guns,  see  that  all  the  gear  of 
the  guns  is  ready  for  service  and  secured,  fill  the 
shot  boxes,  rack,  and  wadnets^  get  the  anchors  on 
the  bows,  and  lash  them,  unbend  the  cable  and  buoy 
ropesj  if  clear  and  dry,  pay  them  below.  Also,  the 
messengers,  hawsers,  stoppers,  nippers  and  cable 
mats,  put  in  the  bucklers,  unreeve  cat  and  fish,  coil 
them  away  below.  Get  chafing  mats  on  the  yards, 
and  rigging,  see  the  booms  and  boats  secured, 
pumps  ready  for  working,  the  gratings  and  tarpau- 
lins ready  for  putting  on.  Overhaul  the  storm  stay 
sail  gear,  see  every  thing  ready  for  service  and  stow  it 
below  again. 


300.   To  Stow  the  Anchor  for  Sea. 

The  anchors  being  catted  and  fislied,  clap  a  stout 
tackle  on  them  and  cat  head  stoppers,  pass  a  good 


169 

lashing  through  the  ring,  and  over  the  cathead  ex- 
pend the  stopper  the  same  way.  Hook  the  pendant 
tackle  to  a  strop  around  the  shank,  weigh  the  crown 
and  bowse  the  fluke  into  the  bill  port  by  a  thwart- 
ship  tackle,  having  another  tackle  clapt  on  the  end 
of  the  anchor  stock,  which  is  uppermost,  getting  it 
as  close  to  the  side  as  the  stock  will  permit ;  pass 
stout  shank  lashings  also  around  the  stock  and  cat- 
head, unbend  the  cable  and  buoy  rope. 

Note.   The  waist  anchors  are  securely  stowed, 
when  they  are  first  got  on  board. 


301.     To  make  /Sail  when  Getting   Under  weigh. 

Call  all  hands,  loose  sails,  lay  aloft  sail  loosers, 
man  the  boom  tricing  lines,  trice  up,  lay  out,  loose 
away,  clear  away  the  rigging,  man  the  topsail  sheets 
and  halyards,  keep  fast  the  buntlines  and  leech  lines 
of  the  courses,  when  ready,  let  fall  and  sheet  home, 
lay  in,  lay  down,  down  booms  ;  when  the  men  are 
off  the  yards,  light  up  the  rigging  in  the  tops,  attend 
the  braces,  hoist  away  the  topsails  ;  when  taut,  leech, 
belay  the  halyards,  man  the  lee  braces  and  attend 
the  weather  ones.  Bear  the  lee  back  stays  abaft, 
weather  ones  abreast,  and  set  them  up,  and  rig  out 
the  outrigger.  Overhaul  the  lifts  and  trusses,  attend 
15 


170  '        KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

the  bowlines  and  brace  up,  when  up,  haul  taut  wea- 
ther braces,  lifts  and  trusses,  steady  out  the  bowlines, 


802.     To  set   Top-gallant  Sails,  Blowing  Fresh* 

Point  the  yards  to  the  wind,  and  loose  the  sails, 
sheet  home  to  leeward  first  and  then  to  windward, 
having  a  hand  to  leeward,  to  light  the  foot  over  the 
topmast  stay,  hoist  away,  trim  the  yards,  haul  the 
bowlines. 

Note.  In  setting  top-gallant  sails  over  single  reefed 
topsails,  see  that  the  sheets  are  home  square  alike. 


303.     To  set  Courses,  {Moderate.) 

Man  the  fore  and  main  tacks  and .  sheets,  attend 
the  rigging,  have  hands  on  the  lower  yards,  to  over- 
haul it,  haul  aboard,  check  the  top  bowlines,  weather 
lower  lifts'a  little  of  the  lee  [main  brace,  avast  the 
sheets,  get  the  tacks  close  down,  and  then  haul  at 
the  sheets,  haul  taut  the  main  brace,  lifts,  trusses,  ant 
bowlines. 


304.     To  set  Courses,  {Blowing  Fresh.) 
Man  well  the  sheets,  overhaul  the  leech  lines  and 
the  lee  buntlines,  ease  down  the  lee  clew  garnet,  slack 


171 

top  bowlines,  lower  lifts,  and  lee  main  braces,  get  the 
tacks  close  on  board,  haul  aft  the  sheets,  haul  tf.ut 
the  lee  main  brace,  weather  lifts  and  bowlines,- hook 
and  haul  taut  your  rolling  tackle. 


305.     To  set  the  Spanker. 

Top  up  the  boom,  overhaul  lee  topping  lifts,  attend 
the  sheets  and  weather  guy,  haul  over  the  lee  guy 
and  trim  the  boom,  man  the  outhaul  and  attend  the 
brails  and  vangs,  let  go  the  brails,  haul  out  and  trim 
the  gaif  by  the  vangs. 


306.     To  set  the  Jib, 

Cant  the  spritsail  yard  to  steady  the  boom,  man 
the  halyards  and  sheet,  see  the  down  haul  and  brails 
clear,  take  in  the  slack  of  the  sheet  to  steady  the  sail, 
hoist  away,  and  as  the  sail  goes  up  ease  off  the  sheet 
when  taut  up,  haul  aft  the  sheet. 


307.     J5y  the  Wind^  a  mail  falls  overboard. 

Silence  fore  and  aft,  hard  down  the  helm,  cut  away 
the  life  buoy,  haul  up  the  main  sail,  lay  the  main 
yard  to  the  mast,  let  flow  the  head  sheets,  clear  away 


172  KEDGE  ANCHOR,   OR 

the  lee  quarter  boat,  up  foresail  and  top-gallant  sails, 
wait  for  the  return  of  the  boat,  hoist  her  up,  fill  away 
and  make  sail. 


308.     To  set  a  Lower  Studding  Sail. 

Get  the  sail  athwartships  the  fore  castle,  overhaul 
the  gear,  haul  taut  the  fore  brace,  topmast  studding 
sail  boom  brace,  burton  trusses  and  rolling  tackle. 
Man  the  lower  boom  topping  lifts,  forward  guy,  at- 
tend the  after  one,  rig  out  and  trim  the  lower  boom, 
man  the  halyards  and  outhaul,  hoist  away,  break 
stops  or  haul  out  the  toggle,  haul  out  the  tack  close, 
hoist  the  outer  Halyards,  taut  up,  then  the  inner  ones, 
trim  down  the  sheet. 

Note.  The  weather  studding  sails  are  always 
set  abaft,  the  lee  ones  forward,  when  required  to  shift 
them  from  aft  forward,  send  a  hand  aloft,  lower 
away,  gather  in,  and  get  hold  of  the  outer  leach,  cant 
the  yard,  clear,  up  topmast,  or  top-gallant  studding 
sail. 


309.     To  take  in  Top-gallant  Sails 

Man  top-gallant  clewlines,  lay  aloft  and  stand  by 
to  furl  the  sail,  attend  the  braces,  bowlines,  sheets, 
and  halyards ;   round  in  the  weather  braces,  ease 


173 

away  the  lee  sheet  and  halyards,  lower  away,  ease 
away  the  weather  sheet,  clew  up,  haul  up  the  bunt- 
lines,  steady  the  yard,  lay  out  and  furl  the  sail. 


310.      To  take  in  a  Topmast  Studding  Sail, 

Man  the  downhaul,  deck  sheet,  and  boom  jigger, 
attend  the  halyards,  tack  and  short  sheet,  have  meri 
on  the  yard  to  light  in  the  boom,  ease  away  the  hal- 
yards and  short  sheet,  haul  down  the  yard  to  the 
tack  block,  ease  away  the  tack  and  haul  in  the  sail 
by  the  deck  sheet  and  downhaul,  rig  in  the  boom,  and 
secure  it,  unhook  th^  burton,  and  unbend  the  gear. 


311.     To  reef  Topsails  and  Courses. 

Call  all  hands,  reef  topsails,  man  the  topsail  clew- 
lines and  buntlines,  weather  braces  and  downhaul 
tackles,  have  hands  to  attend  the  halyards,  bowlines, 
and  lee  braces,  clear  away  the  bowlines,  round  in  the 
weather  braces,  ease  away  the  topsail  halyards,  clew 
down,  haul  up  the  buntlines  and  out  reef  tackles; 
haul  taut  the  halyards  again.  Luff  to,  shake  the  top- 
sails, lay  aloft  topmen,  man  the  boom  tricing  lines.  In 
taking  in  the  first  reef  the  band  is  hauled  well  up  on 
the  yard,  the  earing  passed  from  forward  aft,  and  the 

forward  points  should  be  well  taut.    The  second  reef 

15* 


174  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


band  comes  below  the  first,  and  the  third  below  the 
second ;  the  earings  passed  in  the  same  manner. 
The  close  reefed  band  comes  directly  under  the  yard  ; 
this  earing  is  passed  from  aft  to  forward,  and  the  after 
points  are  hauled  well  taut,  before  knotting,  light 
over  to  windward,  take  two  outer  turns  with  the 
earing,  then  expend  the  end  through  the  thimble 
and  over  the  yard ;  light  over  to  leeward,  pass  your 
earing  and  take  care  to  tie  the  points  clear  of  the  top- 
gallant sheets.  In  close  reefing  it  is  necessary  to  start 
the  sheets,  in  order  to  get  earings  close  out.  Lay  in, 
down  booms,  lay  down  from  aloft,  excepting  the  men 
stationed  to  overhaul  the  reef  tackles,  and  light  the 
rigging  up.  Let  go,  and  overhaul  the  reef  tackles 
and  buntlinCs,  lead  along  the  topsail  halyards,  attend 
the  braces  and  hoist  away  ;  take  care  not  to  hoist 
them  so  taut  as  to  endanger  the  yards.  When  up, 
trim  the  sails,  and  haul  the  bowlines,  hook  and  haul 
taut  the  rolling  tackles. 

Haul  up  the  courses,  overhaul  and  hook  top  bur- 
tons to  the  reef  pendants,  and  haul  them  taut,  slack- 
ing the  leech  lines  and  clew  garnets,  and  haul  taut 
the  lifts  and  braces,  trusses  and  rolling  tackles.  Lay 
aloft  lower  yard  men,  man  the  boom  jiggers^ 
trice  up,  lay  out  and  reef.  The  earings  and  points 
are  passed  like  those  of  a  topsail,  observing  to  pass 
the  latter  clear  of  the  topsail  sheets.  The  second 
reef  is  generally  taken  with  a  line  ;  the  points  taken 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  175 

out  of  the  sail  for  that  purpose  ;  the  line  is  cut  in 
four  pieces,  which  are  used  as  a  lacing  ;  when  reefed, 
lay  in,  down  booms,  and  lay  down  from  aloft ;  un- 
hook the  burtons,  and  set  up  the  courses,  clew  up 
and  pipe  down. 

Note.  To  reef  when  going  large,  luff  to  so  as  to 
shake  the  sail ;  to  close  reef,  clew  up.  (See  reef 
lines  for  topsails.) 


312.    To  Reef  Topsails^  in  Stays. 

Call  all  hands  to  tack  ship,  send  aloft  one  watch 
of  Topmen,  and  see  the  remainder  properly  station- 
ed, ease  down  the  helm  and  haul  over  the  spanker 
sheet,  as  she  comes  too,  overhaul  the  lifts  and  trusses 
and  when  hard  down,  ''  Helm's  a  lee,"  ease  off  the 
jib,  and  if  necessary  the  fore  sheets,  w^hen  the  leeches 
of  the  courses  shake ;  rise  tacks  and  sheets ;  over- 
haul, and  bear  abaft  the  weather  back  stays,  when 
the  wind  is  about  a  point  on  the  weather  bow,  stand 
by  the  main  and  mizen  topsail  halyards,  (main  sail 
hawl,)  let  go  the  main  and  mizen  topsail  halyards, 
and  take  care  not  to  brace  them  up  too  much,  let  the 
men  from  the  clew  garnets  and  braces,  haul  out  the 
reef  tackles,  and  up  buntlines,  trice  up,  lay  out  and 
reef,  set  up  the  after  breast  backstays,  and  man  the 
head  braces,  when  head  to  wind,  brail  up  the  jib, 


176  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

cant  the  spritsail  yard,  bear  over  the  spanker  boom, 
and  haul  aft  the  jib  sheet,  as  soon  as  it  will  take ; 
when  she  gets  sternboard,  shift  the  helm  when  the 
spanker  and  mainsail  are  full,  stand  by  the  fore  top- 
sail halyards,  (let  go  and  haul)  ease  away  the  hal- 
yards, and  let  the  men  from  the  jib  brails  and  fore 
clew  garnets,  haul  out  the  reef  tackle,  and  up  bunt- 
lines,  avast  bracing,  trice  up,  lay  ou^  and  reef,  set  up 
the  forward  back  stays.  As  soon  as  the  main  and 
mizen  topsail  are  reefed,  let  the^  men  lay  in,  down 
booms  and  overhaul  the  rigging,  lead  along  and  man 
the  halyards,  attend  the  braces,  hoist  away  and  trim 
the  topsails  by  the  braces,  which  will  catch  her,  if 
falling  off,  as  soon  as  the  fore  top  sail  is  reefed^  send 
the  men  down,  brace  up  the  fore  yard,  lead  along, 
and  man  the  top  sail  halyards,  hoist  and  trim  the 
sail,  trim  all  sharp,  haul  the  bowlines,  haul  taut  the 
lifts,  trusses,  and  rolling  tackles.  Clear  up  and  pipe 
down. 


313.   To  Part  a  Weather  Topsail  Brace  Reefing. 

Haul  the  lee  reef  tackle  close  out  so  as  to  tauten 
the  leech,  haul  forward  on  the  lee  top  bowline,  clear 
away  the  weather  one,  the  lee  braces  and  trusses, 
and  round  in  on  the  weather  brace ;  when  the  yard 
is  clear  of  the  topmast  rigging  avast  hauling  and 
r«eve  preventer  braces  immediately. 


177 

Note.  The  burton  might  be  hooked  from  the 
weather  yard  arm  to  the  after  part  of  the  top  to  wind- 
ward. 


314  To  Part  a  Topsail  Parrel 

Haul  taut  the  braces,  take  a  piece  of  stout  rope, 
and  pass  it  around  the  topmast,  and  the  strops  of  the 
tye  blocks,  heaving  it  taut,  pass  a  new  parrel. 


315.  To  Take  in  a  Close  Reefed  Topsail. 

Steady  well  the  topsail  and  lower  yards,  rounding 
in  the  weather  topsail  brace  as  much  as  possible,  man 
the  clewlines  and  buntlines,  attend  the  sheets  and 
bowlines,  clew  up  the  lee  sheet,  and  haul  up  the 
buntline,  if  to  save  the  yard,  haul  up  to  leeward,  first 
point  the  yard  to  the  wind,  and  steady  it  again,  lay 
out  and  furl  the  sail. 

Note.  The  sail  is  not  clewed  down,  because  when 
a  topsail  is  close  reefed  the  yard  is  barely  clear  of  . 
the  cap. 


316.   To  Take  in  a  Course. 
Steady  the  yard  as  securely  as  possible,  man  the 


178  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

clew  garnets,  buntlines,  and  leech  lines,  ease  away 
the  tack  and  bowlines,  haul  up  to  windward,  ease 
off  the  sheet,  haul  up,  get  the  sail  close  to  the  yard 
and  furl  it. 


317.    To  Take  in  a  Spanker. 

Man  well  the  brails  and  weather  vang,  attend 
the  outhaul  and  lee  vang,  ease  away  the  outhaul, 
haul  over  on  the  weather  vang,  brail  up  to  leeward, 
ease  off  the  sheet,  haul  taut  the  weather  brails,  pass 
the  foot  gaskets,  steady  the  gaff  and  crutch  the 
boom. 


318.   To  Take  in  a  Jib. 

Man  the  downhaul,  attend  the  halyards  and  sheet, 
let  go  the  halyards,  ease  off  the  sheet  handsomely, 
haul  down  and  stow  it. 


319.     To  Set  a  Close  Reefed  Topsail. 

Point  the  yard  to  the  wind,  and  brace  the  lower 
yard  a  little  sharper  than  the  topsail  yard  ;  man  the 
sheets,  attend  the  buntlines,  and  loose  the  sail,  over- 
haul the  lee  buntline,  ease  down  lee  clewlines,  and 


TOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  1/9 

haul  home  the  lee  sheet,  ease  off  the  weather  bunt- 
line,  at  the  same  time  slack  down  the  weather  clew- 
line, and  haul  home  the  weather  sheet,  hoist  the  yard 
up  clear  of  the  cap,  brace  up,  and  haul  the  bowline, 
steady  the  lower  and  topsail  yards,  with  braces  and 
rolling  tackles. 


320.    The  Jib  Splits. 

Mind  the  weather  helm,  haul  the  sail  down,  and 
hoist  the  fore  topmast  stay  sail,  hitch  the  downhaul 
around  the  body  of  the  sail,  also  pass  stops  around 
it,  take  the  end  of  a  rope  from  the  fore  castle  and 
bend  it  on  to  haul  in  by.  Turn  out  the  jib  stays,  bend 
a  line  on  to  the  end  and  unreeve  it,  haul  taut  the 
halyards,  ease  off  the  downhaul  and  haul  in,  get  up, 
overhaul,  and  bend  a  new  one,  seize  on  the  sheet, 
bend  on  the  halyards,  and  downhaul,  stop  the  sail, 
haul  out  by  the  downhaul  and  halyards,  reeve  tha 
jib  stay,  turn  it  in,  set  it  up,  pass  the  tack  lashing, 
and  reeve  the  brails,  set  the  jib  and  haul  down  tha 
stay  sail. 


321.  A  Close  Reefed  Topsail  iSplits. 

Clew  the  sail  up  and  steady  the  yard,  cast  off  some 
of  the  rope  bands,  so  as  to  pass  stops  around  the  sail 


180  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

to  secure  it,  unbend  the  sheets,  bowlmes  and  lee 
buntlines,  unreeve  lee  clewline  and  reef  tackle,  fetch 
the  weather  buntline  round  the  sail,  and  make  the 
lee  earing  fast  to  the  buntline,  hook  a  burton  to  a 
strop  around  the  sail,  cast  off  all  the  rope  bands  and 
lower  away,  ease  away  the  weather  earing  and  lower 
away  the  sail  on  deck,  stretch  the  new  sail,  over- 
haul it,  then  reef  the  sail  at  the  foot,  commencing  at 
the  close  reef,  and  taking  each  of  the  three  lower 
reefs  separately,  then  bight  it  down  and  send  it  aloft 
as  ^described  before,  observing  to  use  the  weather 
topsail  halyards,  reeve  and  bend  the  gear,  stopping 
the  head  of  the  sail  to  the  buntlines,  have  yard  jig- 
gers hooked  to  bring  the  sail  to  the  yard,  pass  the 
earings  and  rope  bands,  also  in  the  same  manner, 
bring  the  first  reef  to  the  yard,  cast  out  the  fourth 
reef,  haul  up  the  sail,  then  bring  the  reef  to  the  yard, 
after  which  seitthe  sail  as  before. 


322.  A  Course  ^Splits. 

Haul  up  the  sail,  cast  off  a  few  rope  bands  to  pass 
stops  around  it,  unbend  the  leech  lines,  slablines  and 
bowlines,  cast  off  the  lee  earing  and  make  it  fast  to 
the  lee  buntlines,  lower  away  the  clue  garnets,  and 
buntlines,  ease  off  the  weather  earing,  and  lower  on 


YOUNG    sailor's   ASSISTANT.  181 

deck,  unbend  the  bnntlines,  unlash  the  tack,  sheet 
and  clew  garnet  blocks,  overhaul  the  new  sail,  lash 
on  the  blocks  and  bend  all  the  gear,  pass  stops  around 
the  sail  to  keep  it  home,  then  bring  it  to  the  yard, 
with  yard  jiggers  and  bnntlines  as  in  No,  173  ;  when 
the  sail  is  bent,  cast  off  the  stops  and  set  it. 


323.   To  Bend  a  New  Course^  before  the   Old  one 
is  Unbent. 

Overhaul  the  new  sail  athwart  the  deck,  stopper 
the  clews  of  the  old  one,  un reeve  all  the  gear  excep 
the  clew  garnets,  bend  the  gear  to  the  new  one,  stop 
the  head  to  the  buntlines,  hook  yard  and  clew  jig 
gers,  send  men  on  the  yard  to  cast  off  every  other 
rope  band,  and  unreeve  the  head  earings,  out  of  their 
respective  strops,  making  them  fast  around  the  yard, 
sway  up  the  new  sail,  forward  of  the  old  one,  bring 
jt  to  the  yard,  and  bend  it  the  same,  as  if  there  were 
no  other  bent,  overhaul  the  rigging  and  set  it,  haul 
up  the  old  one,  cast  off  the  rope  bands  and  send  it 
down  by  the  burtons  or  top  gallant  yard  rope  and 
clew  garnets,  unreeve  the  clew  garnets,  and  reeve 
them  to  the  new  sail,  pass  the  remainder  of  the  rope 
bands. 

Note.  This  plan  might  be  of  advantage,  when  in 
chase,  whenlhe  sail  has  been  riddled  with  shot.     Li 

16 


182  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

lowering  either  a  topsail,  or  a  course,  the  top  gallant 
yard  or  mast  rope  is  useful,  making  it  fast  round  the 
bunt. 


324.   To  tSecure  the  Guns  for  a  Gale. 

The  lower  deck  guns  were  secured,  when  the 
ship  first  got  to  sea.  The  main  deck  guns  should 
be  run  in  and  secured  in  the  same  manner,  then  put 
in  the  upper  half  ports  and  port  bucklers,  particular 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  wood  the  tompions,  as 
the  great  object  of  housing  guns  rs  to  take  the  strain 
off  the  side  of  the  ship. 

To  secure  a  carronade,  run  in  and  put  the  hous- 
ing chock  in,  forward  of  the  gun,  haul  taut  the  side 
tackles,  and  rack  the  falls,  hook  the  train  tackle 
around  the  breech  as  before,  pass  the  breast  lashing, 
and  secure  the  equipments  of  the  gun. 


325.    The  Breeching  Bolts  begin  to  Draw, 

Reeve  hawsers  fore  and  aft,  set  them  well  taut, 
lash  them  to  the  pomelions  of  the  guns,  then  frap 
them  between  every  two  guns,  with  stout  lashings 
to  the  fighting  bolts. 


183 

326.  A  Gun  Breaks  Adrift. 

Chock  it  with  hammocks,  and  lash  it  in  the  best 
manner  possible,  get  to  its  own  port  the  first  oppor- 
tunity, reeve  a  new  breeching,  train  and  side  tackles. 


327.  To  Send  down  Top  Gallant  Yards. 

Call  all  hands  down  top  gallant  yards,  unhook 
the  top  gallant  tye,  hook  or  lash  the  jack  block  to  it, 
reeve  top  gallant  yard  rope,  bend  it  on  to  the  slings 
of  the  yard,  and  two  thirds  out  to  leeward,  unbend 
all  the  gear,  bend  on  the  tripping  line  and  send  it 
down  to  windward,  trice  up  the  jack  block,  man  the 
yard  rope,  and  lee  lift,  attend  the  lee  braces  and 
weather  lift,  haul  in  a  little  of  the  weather  braces,  to 
clear  the  topsail  yard,  and  when  all  ready,  "  sway 
away,"  bousing  on  the  lee  lift,  and  casting  off  the 
Parrel  lashing,  at  the  same  time  unrig  the  yard  arms, 
lower  away  and  stop  the  yard  amidships  on  depk, 
stop  the  gear,  sway  in,  trice  down  the  jack  block, 
and  round  up  top  gallant  yard  ropes. 


328.    To  House  Top  Gallant  Masts. 

Hook  top  blocks,  and  reeve  the  short  mast  rope, 
hook  mast  burtons,  and  man  the  falls,  attend  the 


-Hi 


184  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

lanyards  of  the  rigging  and  stays,  slack  a -few  inches, 
sway  away  and  take  out  the  fids,  and  lower,  haul- 
ing down  on  the  back  stay,  and  fore  and  aft  stays, 
when  low  enough  take  a  tarn  with  the  falls,  pass 
heel  lashings  through  the  fid  hole,  and  around  the 
topmast,  having  old  canvass  in  the  wake,  stop  in  the 
rigging,  sheepshank  the  backstays,  and  take  in  the 
slack  of  the  fore  and  aft  stays.  If  the  masts  are  to 
be  sent  down  on  deck,  the  long  mast  ropes  are  to  be 
rove,  and  the  burton  hooked  to  a  lizard,  dogged  up 
the  mast  rope,  sway  up,  out  fid,  and  lower  as  before ; 
bend  on  and  send  down  a  heel  rope  as  a  guy,  rack 
both  parts  of  the  mast  rope  together,  hitch  it  around 
the  top  gallant  mast  head  and  mast  rope,  take  a  turn 
with  the  mast  rope  on  deck,  come  up  the  burton  fall, 
unhook  it  and  take  off  the  lizard,  lower  away,  clap- 
ping stops  around  the  mast  rope  and  pole  as  it  goes 
down,  stow  it  amidships,  on  deck,  and  round  up  the 
mast  rope.  Lash  the  cylinder  and  royal  rigging  to 
the  topmast  cap,  stop  it  in  below,  take  in  the  slack  of 
the  stays,  and  sheepshank  the  back  stays. 


329.  On  a  Lee  Shore j  Under  Top  Gallant  Sails ^ 
Jib  J  Courses  and  Spanker y  the  Wind  increases 
to  a  three  reefed  Topsail  breeze. 

Take  in  the  top  gallant  sails,  jib  and  spanker,  hoist- 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  185 


ing  the  fore  topmast  and  mizen  stay  sails  at  the  same 
time.  Clew  down  the  fore  and  mizen  topsails,  take 
in  three  reefs  and  set  them.  Clew  the  main  down, 
reef  and  set  it.  The  gradual  redaction  is  made  to 
keep  way  on  the  ship  constantly. 


330.    To   Tack  &hip  Under  Doubk  Reefed  Top- 
sails. 

Call  "  all  hands  about  ship,"  and  station  them  pro- 
perly. Watch  for  a  smooth,  time,  ease  down  the 
helm,  haul  down  the  jib,  haul  aft  the  spanker  sheet, 
as  she  comes  too,  "helm's  a  lee,"  ease  oflf  the  fore 
sheet,  keeping  the  tack  fast  to  help  her  round  against 
the  sea,  when  the  leeches  of  the  courses  lift,  rise 
main  tack  and  sheet,  overhaul  lifts  and  trusses,  and 
bear  abaft  the  breast  back  stays,  the  wind  nearly 
ahead.  "  Mainsail  haul,"  set  up  the  after  breast  back 
stay  fails,  brace  sharp  up  the  after  yards,  haul  the 
bowlines,  shift  over  the  jib  sheet,  cant  the  spritsail 
yard,  run  up  the  jib  as  soon  as  it  will  take,  and  bear 
over  the  spanker  boom.  When  she  gets  sternway 
shift  the  helm,  rise  fore  tack  and  sheet,  when  the 
after  sails  fill,  <'  let  go  and  haul."  Haul  forward  fore 
tack  and  fore  top  bowline,  set  up  the  forward  breast 
back  stays,  and  if  she  falls  rapidly  off,  avast  bracing 
as  she  comes  to  meet  her  with  the  helm,  brace  up, 
16* 


186  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

gather  aft,  brace  the  yards,  haul  taut  weather  braces, 
lifts,  trusses,  rolling  tackles  and  bowlines,  clear  up 
and  pipe  down. 

Note.  The  head  yards  are  not  braced  in.  In  or- 
der to  preserve  the  ship's  headway  to  enable  her  to 
pass  the  direction  of  the  wind  in  light  breezes,  and  a 
smooth  sea,  bracing  in  is  an  advantage. 


331.   Missing  Stays^  to  Club-haul  Her. 

As  this  is  only  done  on  a  lee  shore,  rouse  up  a 
range  of  the  cable,  bend  and  bitt  it,  have  hands  by 
the  lee  anchor,  and  others  standing  by  to  cut  or  slip 
the  cable,  ease  down  the  helm  and  proceed  as  in 
tacking,  if  she  makes  a  stand  before  bringing  the 
wind  ahead,  she  will  fall  off  again,  therefore  let  go 
the  anchor,  and  haul  the  mainsail,  when  the  main 
tack  is  down  shift  the  helm,  for  a  sternboard,  and 
being  sure  of  the  cast,  cut  or  slip  the  cable  and  run 
the  jib  up,  as  soon  as  it  will  take,  when  full  abaft, 
haul  the  head  yards,  &c. 

Note.  A  hawser  from  one  of  the  lee  quarter 
ports,  may  be  bent  to  the  cable  or  anchor,  which  be- 
ing boused  upon,  will  act  as  a  spring  to  bring  her 
stern  to  windward. 


187 

332.  To  he  on  a  Lee  Shore  under  close  reefed  Top- 
sails^ reefed  Courses^  and  Fore  Storm  Stay  Sail^ 
it  is  necessary  to  reduce  sail. 

A  ship  in  this  situation,  should  have  her  preventer 
braces,  tacks,  sheets,  and  Hfts,  rove  so  that  the  yards 
are  well  steadied.  Take  in  and  furl  the  close  reefed 
topsails,  pointing  the  yards  to  the  wind,  endeavour  to 
claw  off  under  reefed  courses,  and  fore  storm  stay 
sail. 

Note.  A  ship  can  be  much  nearer  the  wind,  un- 
der her  courses  alone,  than  she  can  if  she  has  close 
reefed  topsails  over  them,  since  the  latter  cannot  be 
braced,  so  as  to  bring  the  wind  much  forward  of  the 
beam.  Another  advantage  is,  that  the  courses  being 
much  nearer  the  centre  of  gravity,  do  not  bury  her 
so  much. 


333.     A  Sfiip  071  Shore  J  what  to  do. 

Out  boats  and  spare  spars,  with  which  construct 
rafts,  carry  out  and  place  the  anchor  for  heaving  ofl. 
Send  down  the  light  spars,  yards,  and  topmasts,  rig 
in  jib  boom,  get  out  all  the  stores  and  provisions,  and 
place  them  on  the  rafts  which  are  anchored  by  kedges. 
Start  all  the  water,  and  bend  buoy  ropes  to  the  guns, 
and  heave' them  overboard;  if  the  tide  falls  much 
before  the  preparations  can  be  made,  get  shoars  out 


188  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

to  keep  her  upright.  Break  out  the  hold,  lash  the 
casks,  under  the  bottom,  get  out  kentledge  and  stow 
it  on  the  rafts. 

At  high  water,  heave  her  off  the  same  way  she 
came  on.  Moor  her  securely,  stow  the  hold  and 
weigh  the  guns. 

Note.  It  would  be  advisable  to  unhang  the  rud- 
der. 


334.     Precautions  for  Scudding. 

Scudding  should  be  performed  under  as  little  sail 
as  possible,  so  that  in  the  event  of  broaching  too,  or 
being  brought  by  the  lee,  she  can  be  more  easily  re- 
covered. The  sails  under  which  ships  are  generally 
scudded,  are  a  closed  reefed  topsail,  fore  sail,  and  fore 
storm  stay  sail.  The  relieving  tackles  should  be 
hooked,  and  hands  stationed  by  them.  A  tackle 
hooked  to  the  lee  fore  tack,  would  be  of  service  in 
filling  the  fore  sail.  When  brought  by  the  lee,  the 
yards  should  be  well  steadied,  and  breast  back  stays 
well  rigged  out,  the  braces  and  bowlines,  lifts  and 
trusses,  rolling  tackle,  and  backstay  falls,  should  be 
clear  for  bracing  around.  The  clew  garnets,  clew- 
lines, and  buntlines,  lead  along  ready  for  hauling  up 
the  sails. 


x^ 


189 

335.   A  iShip  Broaches  too. 

Meet  her  with  the  helm,  and  lee  head  braces,  if 
necessary,  shiver  the  after  yards ;  should  she  still 
come  too,  and  the  sails  taken  aback,  brace  about  the 
head  yards,  and  use  the  helm  if  necessary,  if  she 
should  get  too  much  sternboard,  in  falling  off,  haul 
up  the  fore  sail  and  pay  her  off  with  the  fore  storm 
stay  sail,  fill  the  after  yards  as  soon  as  possible,  to 
gather  headway,  and  when  she  has  fallen  off  suffi- 
ciently, brace  about  the  head  yards,  and  trim  as  be- 
fore. 


336.     Brought  by  the  Lee, 

If  she  has  headway,  which  probably  will  be  the 
case,  put  the  helm  a-weather,  but  if  she  has  sternway 
put  it  a-lee.  Man  the  braces  and  fore  clew  garnets, 
brace  about  the  head  yards,  and  keep  the  others 
barely  full ;  when  before  the  wind  square  the  head 
yards,  and  bring  her  to  her  course  again.  If  the 
main  topsail  will  not  brace  about  readily,  let  fly  the 
weather  sheet  and  clew  up,  the  wind  acting  on  the 
dew  only,  will  bring  the  yard  round,  when  the  wea- 
ther sheet  may  be  hauled  home  again. 

Note.  A  ship  might  be  said  to  be  brought  by  the 
lee,  when  struck  aback  by  a  change  of  wind.  Use 
the  helm  for  headway  or  sternway  as  before,  brace 


190 

round  the  after  yards,  and  when  they  are  full,  the 
head  ones.  This  is  the  principle  of  tacking,  but  is 
not  thought  as  well  when  scudding  in  a  gale,  as  the 
ship  might  get  too  rapid  sternway,  which  would  be 
dangerous  in  a  heavy  sea.  As  the  object  is  to 
preserve  the  headway,  the  yards  are  braced  round  as 
soon  as  possible.  If  scudding  under  the  main  topsail 
and  it  becomes  necessary  to  reduce  sail,  take  in  the 
fore  topsail,  for  the  main  being  nearer  the  centre  of 
gravity,  has  less~tendency  to  bury  the  ship,  and  she  is 
consequently  more  easily  steered.  In  scudding  under 
main  topsail  and  foresail ;  the  ship  is  to  be  brought 
by  the  wind.  Should  she  have  a  tendency  to  gripe, 
keep  the  foresail  on  her,  but  if  otherwise,  take  in  the 
foresail,  and  set  the  fore  storm  stay  sail,  brace  up  the 
head  yards,  then  the  after  ones,  watch  for  a  smooth 
time,  and  ease  down  the  helm,  taking  care  to  meet 
her  in  due  season.  The  reason  for  bracing  up  the 
head  yards  before  luffing  is,  in  scudding,  the  ship 
has  a  rapid  headway,  and  will  mind  the  helm  very 
quickly  ;  moreover,  the  sea  acting  with  violence  on 
the  quarter,  will  throw  her  up  into  the  wind,  and  un- 
less the  head  yards  are  braced  up  so  as  to  prevent 
that,  she  will  be  in  the  same  situation  as  if  she  had 
broached  too. 


337.      To  Heave  the  Ship  too. 
Having  determined  from  the  known  quality  of  the 


191 

ship,  what  sails  would  be  best  to  heave  to  under — 
bring  by  the  wind  as  in  the  last  question.  If  going 
to  lay  too  under  a  main  topsail  when  by  the  wind, 
haul  up  and  furl  the  foresail,  down  fore  storm  stay 
sail ;  if  under  the  lower  stay  sails,  hoist  them,  taking 
in  the  fore  sail  and  main  topsail  at  the  same  time. 
The  helm  is  kept  a  lee  whilst  laying  too. 

Note.  It  is  best  to  bring  by  the  wind  under  the 
square  sails,  as  the  ship  is  more  under  command  than 
she  would  be  if  they  were  furled. 


338.    To  Veer  Ship,  under  close  reefed  Main  Top- 
sail and  Storm  Stay  Sails. 

Call  all  hands  "  veer  ship,"  and  station  them,  have 
lifts,  trusses,  and  rolling  tackles  attended,  so  that  the 
yard  and  top- mast  may  be  well  supported  in  the 
heavy  rolling  which  they  are  likely  to  experience. 
Haul  down  the  mizen  storm-stay  sail  and  when  she 
falls  off,  up  helm,  ease  off  the  main  storm  stay-sail 
sheet,  and  brace  in  the  main  yard  and  cross  jack- 
yard,  at  the  same  time  taking  care  to  keep  the  mala 
top  sail  full,  to  preserve  the  head  way,  and  to  keep 
her  a-head  of  the  sea,  also  to  keep  it  from  splitting, 
when  the  wind  is  on  the  quarter,  haul  down  the 
main  storm  staysail,  and  shift  over  the  sheet,  when 
before  the  wind,  right  the  helm  and  square  the  head 
yards,  shift  over  the  fore  storm  staysail  sheet,  watch 


192  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

for  a  smooth  time  to  bring  her  to,  ease  down  the 
helm,  and  hoist  the  mizen  storm  staysail  when  the 
wind  is  on  the  quarter  brace  up  the  yards,  hoist  the 
main  storm  staysail,  haul  aft  the  fore  storm  stay  sail 
sheet,  meet  her  with  the  helm,  trim  the  sails  and 
haul  the  main  top  bowline. 


339.     To  Veer  under  a  Mainsail. 

Make  fast  a  hawser  to  the  slings  of  the  main  yard, 
take  it  down  forward  of  the  sail,  haul  it  well  taut  and 
belay  it  to  the  topsail  sheet  bitts.  Call  all  hands  and 
station  them  as  in  the  last  case,  take  advantage  of  her 
falling  off  to  put  the  helm  up.  Ease  off  the  main 
sheet,  and  gather  in  the  lee  tack,  using  the  yards  as 
in  ordinary  cases.  Should  she  not  go  off,  send  down 
the  cross  jack  yard,  and  mizen  topsail  yard,  house 
the  topmast  and  get  a  drag  over  the  lee  quarter,  after 
which  proceed  as  before,  in  bracing  the  yards,  and 
bring  by  the  wind. 


340.     To  Veer  under  Bare  Poles. 

Send  down  the  after  yards  and  mizen  topmast,  get 
a  span  on  the  mizen  topmast,  and  bend  a  hawser  to 
it  in  board.  Send  men  in  the  weather  fore  rigging 
with  tarpaulins,  up  helm  and  make  use  of  the  yards 


^^ 


193 

as  usual.  If  she  should  not  go  off,  cut  away  the  mizen 
mast  as  a  last  resort,  and  veer  away  the  hawser  and 
use  the  mjzen  top-mast  as  a  drag  to  assist  in  wearing. 


341.     To  Cut  away  the  Masts, 

Clear  away  all  the  running  rigging  attached  to  the 
mast,  cut  away  the  lanyards  of  the  lee  rigging,  then 
the  lanyards  of  the  stays  and  weather  rigging. 

342.     Laying  Too  under  Lower  Stay  Sails,  Veer 
-;  Ship, 

If  it  does  not  blow  too  fresh,  the  close  reefed  main 
topsail  may  be  set,  as  some  lofty  sail  is  necessary,  to 
prevent  the  ship  from  being  pooped  ;  then  proceed 
as  in  No.  340.  If  she  should  not  go  off,  clap  a  lashing 
rouTt^  ^.^  bunt  of  the  foresail,  and  set  the  weather 
goosewing.  Should  she  still  not  go  off,  send  down 
the  after  yards  and  mizen  topmast,  making  a  drag  of 
them.  If  they  have  no  effect,  cut  away  the  mizen 
mast. 


343.     Laying  Too,  a  Sail  is  Discovered  Ahead, 
and  Close  on  Board. 

To  prevent  both  ships  from  coming  in  contact, 
17 


194  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

which  would  be  the  destruction  of  both,  extraordi- 
nary measures  must  be  resorted  to.  When  laying 
too,  a  ship  is  not  under  the  immediate  command  of 
the  helm,  and  as  there  would  be  great  danger  of  a 
collision  in  case  the  sails  were  so  arranged  as  to  veer, 
because  she  would  immediately  shoot  ahead.  There- 
fore the  yards  are  braced  immediately  for  box-haul- 
ing, and  the  dangerous  experiment  must  be  tried,  in 
order  to  avoid  the  still  more  dangerous  consequences 
of  getting  foul  of  each  other. 

Note.  Under  all  sail  and  close  hauled,  if  a  shoal 
or  rock  is  discovered  suddenly  ahead,  box-haul  her; 
this  must  be  done  by  putting  the  helm  hard  a  lee  at 
once,  and  bracing  the  yards  around  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, so  as  to  deaden  the  headway.  But  if  a  sail  is 
made  close  ahead,  it  is  a  general  custom  among  sai- 
lors, for  the  ship  on  the  larboard  tack  to  give  way, 
the  ship  on  the  larboard  tack  consequenth'  «^«ppLng 
the  helm  up,  and  the  one  on  the  starboard  *i?9j^ard 
down,  thereby  running  clear  of  each  other.  Remem- 
ber this. 


344.     The  Fore  mast  is  Carried  Away. 

Hard  up  the  helm,  brace  in  the  after  yards,  hoist 
the  main  stay  sail,  take  in  after  sail,  and  endeavour 
to  get  her  before  the  wind  ;  if  successful,  keep  her 
so,  by  veering  a  range  of  cable  over  the  stern  and 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  195 

lashing  it  amidships  ;  if  not,  which  is  more  likely  to 
be  the  case,  and  should  carry  away  the  main  topmast 
also,  lay  her  too  under  the  main  stay  sail.  If  the 
main  topmast  should  stand,  clew  up  the  main  topsail 
immediately,  get  the  breast  back  stays  over  the  top- 
sail yard,  and  set  them  up  as  far  forward  as  possible, 
by  means  of  tackles.  Bend  hawsers  on  the  wreck, 
clear  it  away,  especially  the  lanyards  of  the  lee  rig- 
ging, so  as  to  preserve  the  channels  and  chain  bolts, 
atid  endeavour  to  haul  it  aboard.  Send  down  the 
after  yards  and  spars,  and  save  as  much  of  the  wreck 
as  possible.  Rig  a  jury  fore  mast,  fitting  spars  and 
sails  to  the  best  advantage  ;  when  the  jury  mast  is 
rigged,  reeve  a  main  topmast  stay,  of  a  hawser,  and 
take  the  breast  back  stays  aft  again,  after  which  cut 
clear  of  the  wreck. 


345.     To  rig  a  Jury  Mast. 

Take  a  spare  spar,  the  largest  in  board,  a  main 
topmast  for  instance,  and  launch  the  head  over  the 
night  heads,  the  heel  resting  against  the  stump  of  the 
old  mast,  put  on  crosstrees  and  bolsters,  fit  4he  rig- 
ging and  stays  from  hawsers,  and  hook  a  couple  of 
tackles  from  the  jury  mast  head,  which  take  to  the 
side  and  haul  taut,  hook  another,  which  take  well  aft^ 
lash  the  heel  to  the  stump  to  prevent  slipping,  and 
raise  the  mast  with  the  after  purchase,  tending  the 


196  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

Stays  and  pendant  tackles,  when  up,  reeve  the  lan- 
yards, set  up  the  rigging  and  stays,  cleet  and  lash  the 
heel  securely,  ship  the  cap,  send  up  a  top-gallant 
mast  for  a  topmast,  fit  a  topsail  yard  for  a  lower  yard, 
and  a  top-gallant  yard  for  a  topsail  yard. 


346.     The  Main  mast  is  Carried  Away. 

Hard  up  the  helm,  secure  the  mizen  topmast  if  it 
still  stands,  clear  the  wreck,  save  as  much  as  possible 
aiid  rig  a  jury  main  mast. 


347.     The  Bowsprit  is  Carried  Away, 

Hard  up  the  helm,  shiver  the  after  yards,  take  in 
after  sail,  and  get  the  ship  before  the  wind  ;  take  the 
fore  topmast  breast  back  stays  forward  over  the  top- 
sail yard,  hook  the  pendant  tackles,  and  set  them  up 
to  the  cat  heads,  unreeve  the  main  topmast  and  spring 
stays,  and  set  them  up  to  the  fore  topsail  sheet  bitts, 
hitch  a  hawser  to  the  fore  topmast  head,  take  this  in 
through  one  of  the  hawse  holes,  and  set  it  up  on  the 
gun  deck.  While  this  is  performing,  let  some  hands 
be  reducing  sail,  sending  down  top-gallant  yards  and 
masts  if  they  are  aloft,  and  clearing  the  wreck,  rig  a 
jury  bowsprit  of  a  spare  main  topmast  or  a  jib  boom. 


YOUN«  SAiLOR^s  assistant:  197 

348.     A  Topmast  is  Carried  Away. 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind  immediately,  and  re- 
duce sail,  hook  the  top  blocks  and  reeve  hawsers 
through  them,  bend  the  lee  one  to  the  topsail  yard, 
which  is  probably  hanging  to  leeward  of  the  topmast 
with  the  wreck,  clew  up  the  topsail  if  practicable, 
and  cut  the  parrel  if  it  can  be  got  at.  The  yard  now 
hangs  clear  of  the  topmast,  bend  the  weather  hawser 
to  the  wreck  of  the  topmast,  have  guys  from  the  wea- 
ther side  of  the  deck,  clear  away  the  lanyards  of  the 
rigging  and  stays,  also  the  rigging  leading  to  the  top- 
mast head,  and  send  it  down  on  deck.  Hook  the 
yard  tackles,  slack  the  braces  and  trusses,  bouse  the 
lower  yards  forward  and  send  down  the  stump,  get 
the  topsail  yard  down  in  the  lee  gangway  and  repair 
its  damages,  while  the  spare  topmast  is  gut  aloft,  and 
secured  by  the  old  rigging.  Send  aloft  the  yard,  set 
the  topsails,  and  bring  her  to  her  course  again. 


349.     The  Jib  Boom  is  Carried  Aioay. 

Mind  the  weather  helm,  hoist  the  fore  topmast  stay 
sail,  and  get  in  the  wreck  by  the  fore  pendant  tackles 
hooked  to  the  fore  stay,  reeve  a  heel  rope  and  get  in 
the  stump,  point  another  boom,  and  rig  it  with  the 
old  rigging  if  sound,  if  not,  with  spare  ropes  or  haw- 
sers. 

17* 


198  KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

350.   The  Foremast  and  Bowsprit  Carried  Away. 

Proceed  as  in  No.  347,  the  remarks  being  applied 
to  the  present  case.  Lay  too  under  the  main  stay- 
sail to  leeward  of  the  wreck  and  repair  damages  on 
board  in  the  best  manner  possible  :  rig  a  jury  fore- 
mast and  bowsprit,  and  then  cut  clear,  having  saved 
as  many  spars,  sails,  and  as  much  rigging  as  pos- 
sible. If  the  ship  lays  easily  by  the  wreck,  it  would 
probably  be  well  to  ride  by  it,  until  the  gale  abates. 
If  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  veer,  it  might  be  done 
as  in  No.  344,  with  the  assistance  of  the  mainsail, 
making  use  of  the  wreck  as  a  drag,  by  taking  the 
hawser  as  a  spring  to  the  quarter. 


351.     The  Bowsprit  is  Sprung. 

Up  helm,  shiver  the  after  yards,  take  in  after  sail, 
and  get  the  ship  before  the  wind,  haul  down  the 
head  sails,  come  up  the  main  topmast  stays,  and  set 
them  up  on  deck,  get  the  fore  topmast  breast  back- 
stays forward,  hook  the  fore  pendant  tackles,  and  set 
them  up  to  the  cat  head.  Come  up  all  the  head 
stays,  and  rig  in  the  head  booms.  Send  down  upper 
yards  and  masts^,  take  the  fore  topmast  stays  through 
the  hawse  holes  and  set  them  up. 

Note.  All  strain  being  now  off  the  bowsprit,  fish 
it  with  the  regular  fishes,  if  there  are  none  on  board. 


199 

use  the  jib  boom,  if  thought  sufficiently  strong  to 
bear  the  strain  of  the  head  stays,  get  them  in  their 
proper  places,  but  if  not,  get  stays  out  merely  to  make 
sail. 


352.    The  Foremast  is  Sprung  Near  the  Hounds. 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind  immediately,  reduce 
sail  and  get  all  strain  off  the  foremast,  secure  the 
main  topmast  as  in  No.  344,  send  down  top  gallant 
yards  and  masts,  hook  the  jeers  and  settle  the  fore 
yard,  hook  top  blocks,  reeve  top  pendants,  and  house 
the  topmasts  allowing  the  heel  to  come  considerably 
below  the  defect,  fish  the  foremast  with  side  fishes 
and  the  heel  of  the  topmast,  wedging  the  lashings. 
Clap  a  lashing  around  the  doublings  of  the  mast 
head,  having  chocks  between,  keep  the  pendant 
tackles  rove,  turn  in  the  rigging  afresh,  and  set  it  up, 
wedge  the  topmast  in  the  cap,  and  sway  the  fore 
yard,  close  up  to  the  heel  of  the  topmast,  reef  the 
head  sails  to  diminish  the  strain,  if  required. 


353.  A   Topmast  is  Sprung  Near  the  Lower  Cap. 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind  and  reduce  sail.  If 
a  spare  topmast  is  not  to  be  had,  the  old  one  may  be 
housed  far  enough  to  allow  the  spring  to  come  some 


200  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 


feet  below  the  cap,  setting  the  lower  yard  as  in  the 
last  case,  fit  a  large  chock  between  the  topmast  and 
lower  mast  head,  and  clap  stout  lashings  around 
above  and  below  the  defect  part,  wedging  them  well, 
reef  the  fore  sail  so  that  it  can  be  set  with  the  yard 
in  its  present  place,  and  also  the  topsail,  to  lessen  the 
strain  on  the  weak  spar. 

Note.  Sheepshank  the  rigging  if  required,  before 
setting  up. 

354.     To  Send  Aloft  a    Topmast  and  a  Heavy 
Sea  on. 

After  the  topmast  is  pointed  and  rigged,  hook  the 
burtons  to  stout  strops  at  the  rim  of  the  top  on  each 
side,  hitch  hawsers  to  the  mast  head  leading  one 
through  a  large  block  at  the  fore  top  mast  head,  and 
another  aft,  through  one  at  the  mizen.  Haul  the 
burtons  and  hawsers  taut.  Sway  aloft  the  topmast, 
slacking  up  as  it  goes  aloft,  when  fidded,  steady  the 
topmast  until  the  rigging  and  stays  are  set  up. 


355.   The  Gammoning  Carried  Away, 

Proceed  as  in  No.  347,  until  all  strain  is  off  the 
bowsprit,  bolt  a  stout  chock  on  the  bowsprit  and  priss 
the  end  of  the  messenger  out  of  a  hawse  hole,  oVqx 
the  chock  in  through  the  other  hawse  hole  and  but 


201 

it,  take'  the  other  end  to  the  capstern,  and  get  the 
bowsprit  well  down  in  its  bed  by  the  messenger  and 
bob  stays,  come  up  the  old  gammoning  and  pass  a 
new  one. 


356.  A  Lower  Cap  Splits. 

Take  all  sail  off  the  mast,  pass  a  stout  lashing 
around  the  topmast,  and  lower  mast  head,  which 
wedge,  after  which  woold,  and  wedge  the  cap. 


357.   The  Trussle  Trees  are  Sprung, 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind,  take  all  sail  off  the 
mast,  send  down  top  gallant  yards  and  masts,  housing 
the  others,  hook  the  top  blocks,  reeve  top  pendants, 
hook  top  tackles,  and  bouse  them  well  taut,  taking 
all  strain  off  the  fid,  pass  several  stout  lashings 
around  the  heel  of  the  topmast  and  lower  mast  head, 
cleating  them  to  prevent  them  slipping,  make  sail,  as 
the  mast  will  bear. 


358.  A  Lower  Yard  is  Carried  aioay  in  the  Slings, 

If  the  foreyard.   Get  the  ship  before  the  wind,  haul 
up  the  foresail,  clew  up  the  topsail,  take  in  all  the 


202  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

sail  on  the  mizen  mast,  unreeve  the  fore  top  sail 
sheets  and  board  them  on  deck,  bring  her  on  your 
course  again,  and  haul  the  bowlines. 

If  a  main  yard,  keep  on  the  course,  haul  up  the 
main  sail,  clew  up  the  topsail,  unreeve  the  sheets, 
board  them  on  deck,  and  haul  the  bowlines  well  out, 
having  proceeded  thus  far,  get  stout  strops  around 
the  inner  quarter  of  the  yard,  and  hook  the  pendant 
tackles  to  bolts  in  the  lower  cap,  and  these  strops,  if 
the  pendant  tackles  are  not  at  hand,  use  the  burtons. 

Lash  the  jeer  blocks,  reeve  the  jeers,  and  send  the 
yard  down  by  the  jeers,  lifts  and  pendant  tackles,  fish 
the  lower  yards  immediately  if  it  can  be  done,  if  it 
cannot,  rig  a  topsail  yard  for  a  lower  yard. 


359.    A  Topsail  Yard  is  Carried  Away. 

If  it  is  the  fore,  reduce  after  sail,  mind  the  weather 
helm,  and  keep  the  ship  on  her  course.  If  it  is  the 
main  stand  on,  then  clew  up  the  sail,  unbend  it,  and 
get  it  into  the  top  in  the  best  manner  possible,  get  a 
strop  round  the  topmast  head,  above  the  eyes  of  the 
rigging,  to  which  hook  a  large  single  block,  and 
^eve  a  hawser  through  it.  If  the  yard  is  completely 
broken  off,  bend  the  hawser  which  is  not  secured  by 
the  parrel,  bend  on  guys  and  send  it  down,  then 
send  down  the  other  piece.     If  it  still  remains  to- 


203 

gether,  bend  on  the  slings,  stop  out  to  leeward,  have 
a  tripping  line  and  rolling  ropes,  and  get  it  fore  and 
aft  on  deck,  take  off  all  the  old  rigging,  which  put 
on  to  the  spare  yard  in  the  chains,  then  bend  on  the 
hawser,  sway  aloft  and  cross  it  as  in  fitting  the  ship 
out,  have  rolling  ropes  around  it  as  it  goes  aloft,  bend 
the  topsail  and  set  it. 


360.   The  Ship  leaks  Faster  than  the  Pwnps  can 
free  her. 

Find  out  where  the  leak  is,  thrum  an  old  sail  very 
thickly,  and  some  stout  ropes  attached  to  each  leech, 
make  it  up,  take  it  under  the,  bowsprit,  and  get  the 
ropes  on  their  respective  sides,  heave  the  ship  too, 
when  her  headway  eases,  drop  the  sail  overboard, 
after  it  has  sunk  beneath  the  keel,  break  the  stops, 
haul  aft  on  the  ropes,  attached  to  each  clew,  when 
the  body  of  the  sail  is  over  the  leak,  haul  well  taut 
all  the  ropes  attached  to  the  leeches  and  the  head 
which  will  prevent  the  sail  fr6m  going  aft,  when 
going  ahead,  make  skil  and  continue  pumping. 


361.   The  Pumps  are  Choked. 
Hoist  them  out  and  clear  them. 


204  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

362.    A  Shot  gets  loose  in  a  Gun  secured  for  a 
Gale. 

Prick  the  cartridge  well  down  and  pour  vinegar 
enough  into  the  touch  hole  to  drown  it. 


363.    To  Throw  a  Lower  Deck  Gun  Overboard. 

Fit  a  chock  in  the  port  sill,  and  slip  a  strop  over 
the  pomillion  of  the  gun,  to  which  from  the  housing 
bolt,  hook  a  stout  tackle,  unlash  the  muzzle,  heave 
up  the  breech,  and  put  in  the  bed  and  coin,  unreeve 
the  breeching,  throw  back  the  cap  squares,  and 
place  capstern  bars  under  the  breech  to  ease  it,  and 
prevent  the  gun  from  slipping  back  into  the  carriage 
again,  man  the  side  and  port  tackles,  watch  the  roll, 
trice  up  the  port  briskly,  run  out  and  throw  the  gun 
clear  of  the  carriage,  by  the  breech  tackles  and  cap- 
stern  bars,  shut  in  the  port  immediately. 


364.     To   turn   Reefs  out  of   the    Topsails   and 
Courses. 

Hook  the  burtons  to  the  reef  pendants,  and  set 
taut  the  lower  lifts,  ease  off  the  bowlines,  rise  a  little 
of  the  tacks  and  sheets  of  the  courses,  and  settle  a 
few  feet  of  the  topsail  halyards,  haul  taut  the  reef 


205 

tackles  and  buntlines,  and  if  necessary,  round  in  a 
little  of  the  weather  braces  to  clear  the  points  of  the 
lee  rigging,  commence  casting  off  the  points  at  the 
bunt,  taking  care  to  leave  none  tjed,  and  turning  one 
reef  out  at  a  time,  ease  away  both  earings  together, 
overhaul  the  rigging ;  get  the  tacks  on  board,  sheet 
home,  hoist  the  topsails  up  to  a  taut  leech,  out  bow- 
lines and  make  sail. 


365.   The  Rudder  is  carried  away^  to  fit  Another. 

Man  the  braces  immediately,  take  in  after  sails 
and  let  the  ship  run  a  little  free,  rouse  up  a  cable, 
clove  hitch  a  hawser  over  the  cable,  and  then  pay  it 
overboard,  veer  away  about  twenty  fathoms  and  lash 
it  amidships  on  the  taffrail,  lead  the  ends  of  the 
hawser  through  large  blocks  lashed  to  the  quarters, 
and  clap  tackles  on  to  them,  steer  the  ship  with  this 
contrivance,  until  a  rudder  can  be  constructed  by 
captain  Edward  Packenham's  method,  {see  plate.) 

Take  a  spare  topmast,  cut  it  the  length  of  the  rud- 
der, enlarge  the  fid  hole  to  receive  the  tiller  if  not 
already  large  enough,  take  a  spare  cap  and  cut  away 
the  after  part,  so  as  to  fit  the  stern  post  at  the  waters 
edge,  or  a  little  below,  pass  the  topmast  through  the 
round  hole  in  the  cap,  take  a  spare  jib  boom  and  cut 
it  in  two,  the  pieces  are  to  be  bolted  on  abaft  the 
18 


206  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

topmast  after  squaring  the  edges,  which  will  come 
in  contact  with  each  other,  and  cutting  a  score  in 
the  forward  part  of  the  jib  boom,  next  to  the  topmast, 
to  allow  the  cap  to  have  room  to  play  in,  plank  the 
whole  over  with  stout  oak  plank,  and  bolt  in  a  fish 
abaft  all,  drive  an  eye  bolt  into  the  heel  of  the  top- 
mast (now  the  head  of  the  rudder,)  and  have  kent- 
ledge attached  to  the  other  end  to  sink  it.     Take  an 
anchor  stock,  and  square  two  of  the  edges,  cut  away 
a  circular  score  in  each  for  them  to  join  together, 
around  the   topmast  below  the  squares,   and  thus 
serve  as  an  upper  gudgeon,  drive  the  anchor  stock 
hoops  on  the  rudder  head  to  prevent  splitting.  Place 
the  rudder  on  a  stnge  near  the  tnffrail,  pass  a  couple 
of  hawsers  aft  through  the  hawse  holes,  and  secure 
them  to  the  heel  of  the  rudder,  have  tackles  on  their 
inner  ends,  have  two  more  hawsers  or  parts  of  haw- 
sers passed  from  forward  aft,  under  every  thing,  one 
each  side,  and  clinch  them  to  the  quarter  eye  bolts 
in  the  cap,  have  a  pendant  round  as  described  in 
No.  172,  launch  overboard  and  rouse  upon  the  head 
rope,  heave  in  upon  the  hawsers,  and  bring  the  rud- 
der to  the  stern  post  perpendicularly,  secure  the  cap 
to  the  stern  post  and  ihe  anchor  stock,  around  the 
rudder  head,  sliip  the  tiller,  reeve  the  wheel  ropes, 
and  rouse  in  the  cable.     The  kentledge  may  re- 
main to  keep  the  rudder  perpendicular  or  may  be 
taken  off. 


206  KEDGB    ANCHOR,   OR 

topmast  after  squaring  the  edges,  which  will  come 
in  contact  with  each  other,  and  cutting  a  score  in 
the  forward  part  of  the  jib  boom,  next  to  the  topmast, 
to  allow  the  cap  to  have  room  to  play  in,  plank  the 
whole  over  with  stout  oak  plank,  and  bolt  in  a  fish 
abaft  all,  drive  an  eye  bolt  into  the  heel  of  the  top- 
mast (now  the  head  of  the  rudder,)  and  have  kent- 
ledge attached  to  the  other  end  to  sink  it.     Take  an 
anchor  stock,  and  square  two  of  the  edges,  cut  away 
a  circular  score  in  each  for  them  to  join  together, 
around  tiie   topmast  below  the  squares,   and  thus 
serve  as  an  upper  gudgeon,  drive  the  anchor  stock 
hoops  on  the  rudder  head  to  prevent  splitting.  Place 
the  rudder  on  a  stage  near  the  taffrail,  pass  a  couple 
of  hawsers  aft  through  the  hawse  holes,  and  secure 
them  to  the  heel  of  the  rudder,  li&ve  tackles  on  their 
inner  ends,  have  two  more  hawsers  or  parts  of  haw- 
sers passed  from  forward  aft,  under  every  thing,  one 
each  side,  and  clinch  them  to  the  quarter  eye  bolts 
in  the  cap,  have  a  pendant  round  as  described  in 
No.  172,  launch  overboard  and  rouse  up  on  the  head 
rope,  heave  in  upon  the  hawsers,  and  bring  the  rud- 
der to  the  stern  post  perpendicularly,  secure  the  cap 
to  the  stern  post  and  ihe  anchor  stock,  around  the 
rudder  head,  sliip  the  tiller,  reeve  the  wheel  ropes, 
and  rouse  in  the  cable.     The  kentledge  may  re- 
main to  keep  the  rudder  perpendicular  or  may  be 
taken  off. 


h'J.ATr.  T57. 


&  WXex,isXlfh. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  207 

366.  A  JShip  on  Fire. 

Hard  up  the  helm,  haul  up  the  ccirses,  up  span, 
ker,  get  the  ship  before  the  wind,  and  reduce  sail  to 
topsails,  beat  to  quarters,  close  all  tlie  ports,  muster 
the  men  at  their  stations,  call  away  the  fireman, 
under  the  charge  of  their  proper  officers,  let  a  part  fill 
the  engine  and  wet  the  sails,  while  the  other  part 
finds  out  where  the  fire  is,  and  endeavour  to  extin- 
guish it  if  possible  ;  extinguish  it  with  bedding,  put- 
ting over  the  gratings  and  tarpaulins.  The  gunner 
and  his  mates  should  be  in  the  magazine,  ready  to 
drown  the  powder  at  a  moment's  notice.  Let  the 
carpenters  rig  and  fetch  the  pumps,  and  the  spar 
deck  divisions,  clear  away  the  boats,  equip  them  and 
get  them  ready  for  hoisting  out.  In  the  above  case 
the  fire  is  supposed  to  be  below,  and  the  helm  is  put 
up  because  wind  is  less  felt,  the  ports  are  shut  in, 
and  tarpaulins  put  on,  as  they  would  afibrd  air  to 
tllft  fire,  and  the  courses  hauled  up,  because  they 
strike  a  current  of  air  down  the  hatchways,  and  also 
liable  to  catch.  If  the  fire  is  on  de^k  and  forward, 
keep  before  the  wind,  if  aft,  haul  close  on  a  wind. 


367.    A  Ship  on  Her  Beam  Ends. 

When  the  severity  of  the  squall  is  first  felt,  hard 
up  the  helm  and  let  fly  every  thing,  but  if  she  goes 


208  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

on  her  beam  ends,  before  she  can  be  got  off  sufficient- 
ly to  diminish  the  effects  of  the  wind,  the  best  way- 
will  be  to  cut  away  the  mizen  mast,  before  the  head- 
way ceases,  which  falling  over  the  lee  quarter,  will 
act  as  a  drag  to  pay  her  off,  should  she  not  tight 
when  before  the  wind,  if  there  is  anchorage,  and  the 
cable  is  bent,  cut  away  the  lee  anchor,  which  will 
bring  her  around,  and  catch  the  sails  aback,  or  if 
there  is  not  anchorage,  get  the  drag  to  the  lee  bow 
by  means  of  a  spring  and  rouse  in,  the  wind  acting 
on  the  flat  deck,  and  underside  of  the  sails,  will  pro- 
bably right  her.  As  a  last  resort,  cut  away  the  masts, 
great  decision  and  rapidity  of  execution  is  necessary, 
as  the  ship  must  go  down,  a  short  time  after  she 
goes  over. 


368.    Wind  free,  all  Sail  set,  struck  hy  a  Squall. 

Up  helm,  let  fly  the  main  sheet,  spanker  outhaul ; 
staysail  sheets,  and  halyards,  royal  and  top  gallant 
studding  sail  halyards,  royal  and  top  gallant  sheets, 
and  halyards,  haul  up  the  main  sail,  brail  up  the 
spanker,  down  staysails  and  order  the  topmen  to 
haul  in  the  studding  sails  and  stow  them.  When 
before  the  wind  right  the  helm,  clew  down  the  top- 
sails, haul  up  the  buntlines,  and  out  reef  tackles,  and 
reef  if  necessary.  Clear  up  the  decks  as  fa^  as  pos- 
sible. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  209 

Note.  In  ordinary  cases,  sheets  and  tacks  should 
be  eased  off,  for  if  they  should  get  foul  when  run- 
ning through  their  blocks  fiist.  Spars  miglit  be  en- 
dangered, but  when  struck  by  a  severe  squall,  the 
effect  of  the  sails  must  be  diminished  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible to  save  the  masts  and  prevent  her  from  going 
over. 


369.  Struck  hy  a  Squall  on  a  Lee  Shore. 

If  sail  cannot  be  reduced,  luff  too  and  shake  her, 
fill  away  again,  gather  head  way  and  luff  again. 


370.    Struck  hy  a  Squall  wider  whole   Topsails 
and  Courses. 

Up  helm,  let  fly  main  sheet  spanker  outhaul  and 
lee  topsail  sheets,  heiul  up  the  main  sail,  brail  up  the 
spanker,  clew  up  the  topsails  to  leeward,  then  to 
windward,  and  let  go  the  halyards,  right  the  helm 
and  reef  if  necessary. 


371.     On  a  Wind,  under  whole  Topsails,  part  the 
weather  Main  Topsail  Brace. 

Haul  up  the  main  sail,  let  go  the  main  brace,  haul 

18» 


210  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

forward  on  the  lee  main  top  bowline,  and  aft  on  the 
weather  main  brace,  luff  too  and  when  the  main  top- 
sail shivers,  clew  it  down,  haul  up  the  buntlines,out 
reef  tackles  and  steady  the  yard  by  the  bowlines,  un- 
til a  new  brace  can  be  rove.  A  burton  might  be 
hooked  as  mentioned  before,  to  steady  the  yard. 


372.   The  Jib  Downhaul  parts, 

Untoggle  the  fore  top  gallant  bowlines  and  knot 
them  together  above  the  first  hank,  between  the  stay 
and  the  luff  and  the  jib. 


373.    To  Chase. 

A  vessel  that  chases  another  should  have  the  ad- 
vantage in  point  of  sailing,  because  if  the  ship  chased 
is  as  good  a  sailer  as  the  chaser,  the  latter  never  can 
come  up  to  her  if  she  manoeuvred  equally  as  well. 
In  order  to  determine,  whether  your  ship  sails  faster 
than  your  adversary,  get  upon  the  same  tack  under 
the  same  sail,  and  keep  upon  the  same  course  with 
her.  Set  her  exactly  with  a  compass  and  if  your  ship 
sails  best,  the  sail  will  soon  draw  a  point  more  aft,  if 
she  has  the  advantage,  she  will  in  a  short  time  draw 
more  forward,  and  if  both  sail  equally  well,  she  will 
remain  at  the  same  point. 


YouNtf  sailor's  assistant;  211 

374.     To  Chase  to  windward. 

To  chase  to  windward,  run  upon  the  same  course 
with  the  enemy,  until  he  is  brought  perpendicularly 
to  the  course,  when  tack  and  continue  the  second 
board,  until  he  is  again  brought  perpendicularly  to 
the  same  course,  always  continue  this  manouvre  by 
tacking  every  time  the  chase  is  abeam  on  either 
board,  and  she  will  be  come  up  with  in  the  shortest 
method,  by  your  superiority  of  sailing.  Should  the 
chase  pass  the  point,  when  the  chase  bears  abeam, 
he  must  go  about  with  all  despatch. 

Note.  The  chase  goes  about  as  soon  as  the  chase 
is  exactly  abeam,  because  at  that  time  the  distance 
between  them  is  the  least  possible  upon  the  different 
boards  they  hold. 


375.     Observations  for   the  Ship    to   windward^ 
which  is  Chased, 

The  weather  ship  will  always  be  joined,  since  it 
is  granted  that  she  does  not  sail  as  well  as  the  pur- 
suer, it  will  be  then  to  her  advantage,  to  keep  con- 
stantly on  the  same  tack,  without  losing  time  to 
heave  about,  for  tacking  cannot  be  90  favourable  to 
her  as  to  her  adversary,  whose  sailing  is  superior. 

If  the  chaser  mistakingly  stands  on  aad  tacks  iii 


212  KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

the  wake  of  the  chase,  the  best  course  for  the  latter 
to  pursue  is,  to  heave  about  and  pass  to  windward  of 
him  on  the  other  tack,  unless  you  suppose  your  ves- 
sel would  have  a  superiority  in  going  large,  for  if  the 
chaser  persists  in  tacking,  in  the  wake  of  the  other 
ship,  the  chase  will  be  much  prolonged. 


376.    To  Chase  to  Leeward, 

If  the  chaser  keeps  away,  to  cut  the  chase  off,  and 
keeps  continually  on  that  course  they  will  at  last 
come  together,  where  the  two  courses  intersect,  this 
will  be  exactly  executed  by  the  ship  in  chase,  if  in 
the  course  she  has  taken,  she  keeps  the  chase  con- 
tinually upon  the  same  degree  of  the  compass,  as  at 
the  beginning  of  the  pursuit.  This  principle  applies 
equally  to  all  the  courses  which  the  retreating 
ship  pursues,  for  if  overtaken,  it  can  only  be  accom- 
plished by  keeping  in  a  straight  line,  if  the  chase 
takes  another  course,  than  that  which  keeps  the  two 
ships  upon  the  same  point.  These  are  the  only  con- 
siderations to  be  made,  and  they  may  be  corrected 
by  observing  the  bearings  by  an  azimuth  compass. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  213 

377.  To  Windward  of  an  Enemy  within  pistol 
shotj  the  Weather  Main  Rigging  is  shot  away^ 
both  ships  with  main  topsails  to  the  mast. 

Up  helm,  fill  away  and  run  the  enemy  on  board, 
before  she  gets  headway  to  prevent  it. 


378.      Wind  on  the  Quarter^  all  sail  set^  hriiig  by 
under  double  reefed  topsails. 

Reduce  sail  regularly  and  clew  down  the  topsails? 
luff  too  enough  to  reef,  hoist  the  topsails  and  haul 
close  on  a  wind. 


379.      Wind  on  the  Quarter y  all  sail  sety  bring  too 
on  the  other  tacky  under  double  reefed  topsails. 

Reduce  sail  to  topsails,  station  the  crew  forward* 
with  one  watch  of  top  men  aloft  to  reef :  brail  up  the 
spanker,  up  helm,  brace  in,  and  when  before  the 
wind,  clew  down  the  topsails,  haul  out  reef  tackles 
and  up  buntlines,  let  the  men  lay  out  and  reef;  wind 
on  the  quarter,  brace  up  cross  jack  yard,  and  haul 
out  the  spanker,  as  she  comes  too,  brace  up  the  fore 
yard,  and  meet  her  with  the  helm  and  jib  sheet,  when 
coming  too,  a  good  opportunity  will  be  offered  for 


214  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

reefing^  when  reefed,  hoist  away  the  topsails,  letting 
the  main  go  up  aback,  the  others  full. 

Having  a  dismasted  frigate  in  tow,  to  heave  too. 

Make  fast  the  stream  cable  to  the  main  mast  of  the 
prize,  and  take  it  in  at  the  weather  gangway,  clinch- 
ing it  around  the  main  mast:  make  fast  a  stout  haw- 
ser as  a  spring,  and  snatch  it  to  a  block  lashed  amid- 
ships on  the  taffrail,  so  that  the  prize  may  either  ride 
on  the  weather  bow,  or  be  roused  astern.  In  case  of 
veering  rouse  in  upon  the  spring,  and  the  manoeuvre 
will  be  performed  with  more  certainty.  After  it  is 
excuted,  the  tow  rope  must  be  shifted  to  the  opposite 
gangway,  by  means  of  a  spring. 


380.     How  to  get  the  Anchor  off  the  Bows. 

Hook  the  fore  pendant  tackle,  single  the  shank 
painters,  and  set  them  taut  with  the  pendant  tackles, 
come  up  the  shank  lashings,  put  the  shoes  between 
the  bills  and  bows,  by  capstan  bars,  and  lower  them 
by  the  shank  painters,  as  far  as  necessary.  Single 
and  set  taut  cat  head  stoppers,  and  then  unlash  the 


381.     To  Anchor  J  head  to  wind,  wind  free. 
See  that  the  officers  and  men  are  at  their  stations? 


215 

and  the  strictest  silence  preserved  as  the  ship  nears 
her  berth  ;  take  in  ail  the  studding  sails,  get  the  bur- 
tons off  the  yards  and  the  jiggers  off  the  top-gallant 
yards.  Send  the  booms  and  sails  down  from  aloft, 
man  the  fore  clue  garnets,  buntlines,  and  leech  lines, 
the  mainsail  is  hauled  up,  as  the  ship  is  going  free^ 
Topgallant  and  royal  clewlines,  "lay  aloft,"  and 
stand  by  to  furl  the  sails  snug,  and  square  the  yards 
by  the  lifts  and  braces,  have  hands  by  the  fore  tack 
and  sheet,  top-gallant  and  royal  sheets,  halyards, 
weather  braces  and  bowlines,  up  foresail,  in  top-gal- 
lant sails  and  royals,  furl  the  sails  snug,  and  square 
the  yards  by  the  lifts  and  braces,  hauling  taut  the 
halyards.  Man  the  topsail  clew  lines  and  buntlines, 
weather  braces,  jib  downhaul  and  spanker  outhaul, 
attend  the  sheets,  halyards  and  spanker  brails,  ease 
down  the  helm,  haul  down  the  jib,  haul  out  the 
spanker,  and  when  the  topsail  lifts,  clear  away  the 
sheets,  and  clew  them  up,  then  let  go  the  halyards, 
clew  down  and  square  away  the  yards  immediately, 
haul  aft  the  spanker  sheet,  and  when  the  headway 
ceases,  stream  the  buoy,  stand  clear  of  the  cable,  when 
she  begins  to  go  astern,  let  go  the  anchor,  brail  up 
the  spanker,  crotch  the  boom,  haul  taut  the  guys, 
light  too  the  cable  as  fast  as  she  will  take  it^  until  a 
sufficient  scope  is  out,  when  stopper.  Furl  sails,  haul 
taut  and  stop  in  the  rigging,  send  the  boat's  crews  aft 


210  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

to  lower  the  boats  down,  let  the  boatswain  go  ahead 
to  square  the  yards,  and  clear  up  the  declfs. 

NoTb'.  If  gohig  to  moor,  veer  out,  double  the  moor- 
ing scope,  and  then  let  go  the  other  anchor,  now  furl   -<55;  i 
sails  and  heave  in. 


382.     To  Anchor  on  a  Lee  Shore. 

The  ship  being  on  a  lee  shore,  and  no  room  to 
veer,  recourse  must  be  had  to  letting  go  all  the  an- 
chors. For  this  purpose  all  the  cables  are  bent  and 
ranged,  and  all  the  anchors  got  ready  for  letting  go  ; 
the  weather  sheet  is  bitted  to  the  forward  bitts,  and 
the  weather  bower  to  the  after  bitts  to  windward,  the 
lee  bower  to  the  forward  bitts,  and  the  lee  sheet  to 
the  after  ones  to  leeward.  No  buoy  rope  is  bent  ex- 
cept to  the  weather  sheet,  the  weather  sheet  is  backed 
by  the  stream,  and  the  other  anchors  with  kedges, 
see  all  the  tiers  clear,  get  the  ship  under  storm  stay 
sails,  and  furl  all  the  square  sails,  hook  the  yard 
tackles,  get  the  lower  yards  forward  and  house  top- 
masts, when  all  ready,  keep  her  a  little  off  to  get  head- 
way. Let  go  the  weather  sheet  and  stream  anchor 
and  veer  away,  then  the  weather  bower  and  kedge, 
down  helm,  haul  down  fore  and  main  storm  stay 
sails,  and  the  drift  to  leeward  will  carry  her  to  the 
berth  of  the  last  anchor;  which  let  go,  haul  down  the 


217 

mizen  storm  stay  sail,  and  veer  away  an  equal  scope 
on  all  four  cables,  observe  that  they  will  bear  an  equal 
strain,  and  veer  to  a  long  scope,  reservinoj  sufficient 
to  freshen  the  nip  with.  See  that  the  cables  are  well 
rounded,  and  watch  them  carefully.  If  she  should 
drag,  sling  the  guns  with  the  stoutest  spare  rigging 
on  board,  having  a  round  turn  around  all  these 
cables,  and  heave  them  over  ;  if  she  should  still  drag, 
cut  away  the  masts,  and  if  there  is  no  possibility  of 
preventing  her  from  going  on  shore,  take  a  stout 
spring  to  one  of  the  quarters,  slip  the  cables,  let  her 
veer  round  and  go  on  shore  end  on. 

Note.  In  weighing  these  anchors,  bring  too.  first 
on  the  cable  which  has  got  the  least  scope  out,  taking 
in  the  slack  of  the  others  with  deck  tackles. 


383.     Scudding  under  a  Foresail^  to  come  to  ait' 
Anchor. 

Get  both  bowers  ready  for  letting  go,  haul  up  the 

foresail,  making  a  due  allowance  for  headway,  and 

run  in  under  bare  poles ;  when  near  the  berth,  down 

helm  and  haul  out  the  spanker  and  aft  mizen  storm 

stay  sail  sheet,  when  by  the  wind,  let  go  the  weather 

anchor,  and  veer  away  briskly,  when  head  to  wind,^ 

let  go  the  lee  anchor,  and  haul  down  the  stay  sail, 

veer  too  and  bring  an  equal  strain  on  both  cables,  if 

necessary,  let  go  more  anchors. 

19 


A* 


218  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


384.      To  make  a  Flying  Moor. 

Make  all  necessary  preparations  for  coming  too, 
overhaul  and  bitt  a  double  range  of  the  weather  cable> 
and  bitt  the  lee  one  at  the  range  to  which  she  is  to  be 
moored.  When  approaching  the  anchorage,  reduce 
sail  to  topsails,  jib,  and  spanker,  if  moderate,  but  if 
fresh,  to  jib  and  spanker  only.  When  near  the  berth 
of  the  first  anciior  luff  too,  stream  the  buoy,  and  when 
the  headway  has  nearly  ceased,  let  go  the  weather 
an'chor,  np  helm,  stand  on  and  veer  away  roundly, 
to  prevent  the  range  from  checking  her,  when  the 
full  range  is  nearly  out,  hard  down  tlie  helm,  down 
jib,  clew  up  the  topsails  and  out  spanker  ;  when  the 
headway  ceases,  right  the  helm,  up  spanker  and  let 
her  lay  the  range  out  taut,  when  taut  let  go  the  lee 
anchor,  furl  sails,  bring  too  on  the  weather  cable, 
veering  away  on  the  lee  one,  and  heave  in  to  the 
moorings.  Moor  taut  to  allow  for  veering,  clap  on 
service  and  veer  it,  square  the  yards,  haul  taut  and 
stop  in  the  rigging,  and  clear  up  the  decks. 


385.     To  Moor  with  a  Large  Scope  of  Chain. 

Shackle  the  ends  of  both  chains  together,  and  veer 
away  nearly  the  whole  of  the  two  cables,  then  let  go 
the  anchor,  bring  too  on  the  first  cable,  heave  in,  veer- 
ing away  on  the  other  ;  when  in  to  the  moorings,  clap 
on  rounding,  veer,  stopper  and  unshackle  the  chains. 


219 

386.     Blowing  Fresh  in  Port. 

Range  the  cables,  see  the  anchor  clear  and  an  an- 
chor watch  set,  have  leadsmen  in  the  chains,  send 
down  the  upper  yards  if  not  already  down,  house 
top-gallant  masts,  and  point  the  yards  to  the  wind. 


387.     JSend  dow7i  Lower  Yards. 

Send  aloft  the  jeer  blocks,  lash  them  and  reeve  the 
jeers,  see  the  gear  of  the  courses  clear,  trusses  unrove 
and  lifts  clear  for  unreeving,  hook  the  yard  tackles 
and  take  them  forward,  heave  taut  the  jeers,  unreeve 
the  lanyard  of  the  slings,  attend  the  braces  and  yard 
tackles,  lower  away  by  the  jeers  and  lifts,  when  down 
make  all  fast. 


388.     To  house  Topmasts. 

Hook  top  blocks,  reeve  pendants  and  falls,  see  the 
rigging  clear  that  leads  to  the  topmast  heads,  man 
the  top  tackle  falls,  slack  the  lanyards  of  the  rigging, 
stays,  and  backstays ;  sway  up,  out  fid,  lower  away, 
and  haul  down  on  the  rigging,  when  low  enough,  pass  ^  '4B; 
heel  lashings  around  the  lower  masts,  having  canvass    -^  ^ 
in  the  wake,  haul  taut  the  rigging  and  stays,  sheep- 
shank the  backstays,  haul  taut  the  rigging  and  make 
all  snug. 


220  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

Note.  The  topmast  may  be  housed  with  the  lower 
yards  aloft,  by  taking  the  yard  tackles  forward  and 
bowsing  upon  them,  slacking  the  braces  and  trusses. 


389.    To  Back  a  Bower  hy  a  Stream. 

Bend  the  stream  cable  to  the  flukes  of  the  bower 
anchor,  observing  to  let  go  the  stream  first,  and  when 
the  cable  is  taut  let  go  the  bower.  If  the  bower  is 
already  down  and  dragging,  form  a  clinch  with  the 
stream  around  the  cable,  and  let  her  drag  until  she 
brings  the  stream  ahead. 


390.   To  Sweep  for  an  Anchor. 

Make  use  of  some  long  stout  running  rigging, 
middle  it,  attach  some  sinker  to  the  middle,  also  along 
the  bight  to  confine  it  to  the  bottom.  Coil  it  away  in 
two  boats,  and  pull  to  windward  of  where  the  anchor 
is  supposed  to  lie,  then  pull  in  an  opposite  direction, 
veering  away  on  the  bight  from  both  boats,  now  pull 
in  the  direction  of  the  anchor,  and  when  the  bight 
catches,  cross  the  boats  and  get  a  round  turn  in  the 
rope,  make  a  running  bowline  on  the  end  of  a  hawser 
around  the  rope  and  slip  it  down,  when  fast,  weigh 
with  the  launch. 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  221 


EXPLANATION  OF  SEA  TERMS. 


Aback. — A  Sail  is  a-back  when  its  forward  sur- 
face is  acted  upon  by  the  wind. 

Abaft. — The  hinder  Part  of  a  Ship — Behind — 
thus  abaft  the  Foremast^  means  any  thing  nearer 
to  the  Stern  than  the  Foremast. 

A-hoard. — In  the  Ship — as  the  Cargo  is  a-board. 
A  Ship  is  said  to  fall  a-boardj  when  she  runs  foul 
of  another.  To  get  a-board  the  Main  Tack,  is  to 
bring  the  Clew  of  the  Mainsail  down  to  the  Chess- 
tree. 

About. — A  Ship  is  said  to  be  going  about^  when 
in  the  Act  of  Tacking ;  the  Order  for  which  is 
"  ready  about  there  /" 

A-breast. — Opposite  to. 

A-drift. — Broken  loose  from  the  Moorings. 

A-float. — Swimming — not  touching  the  Bottom. 

Afore. — That  Part  of  the  Ship  nearest  to  the  Stem, 
or  Head. 

Aft. — Behind — as  ^^ Stand  further  aft,^  stand 
nearer  to  the  Stern. 

4/j^er.— Hinder — as  the  aftnr  Ports — those  Ports 

nearest  the  Stern. — After  Sails,  after  Hatchway^  ^*c. 
19* 


222  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR  /* 

A-ground. — Not  having  Water  enough  to  float  the 
Ship,  which  rests  on  the  Ground. 

A-head. — Before  the  Ship. 

A'lee. — The  Helm  is  a-lee  when  the  Tiller  is  put 
to  the  lee  Side.  Hard  a-lee^  when  it  is  put  as  far  as 
it  will  go. 

All  in  the  Wind. — i.  e.  when  the  Wind  blows  on 
the  Leeches,  or  outward  Extremities  of  the  Sails, 
and  causes  them  to  shake. 

All  hands,  hoy  ! — The  word  given  by  the  Boat- 
swain and  his  Mates  at  the  Hatchways,  to  assemble 
the  Ship's  Company. 

A-loft. — Up  above.  In  the  Rigging.  On  the 
Yards.     At  the  Mast  Head,  (fcc. 

Alongside. — Close  to  the  Ship, 

Amidships. — In  the  Middle  of  the  Ship.  The 
Helm  is  amidships^  when  the  Tiller  is  not  put 
over  either  to  one  Side  or  the  other. 

To  Anchor. — To  let  the  Anchor  fall  over-board, 
that  it  may  hold  the  ship. 

To  foul  the  Anchor. — To  let  the  Cable  be  twisted 
round  the  upper  Fluke,  &c. 

To  drag  the  Anchor.— Vi hen  the  Ship  pulls  it 
with  her,  from  the  violence  of  the  Wind.  - 

Anchorage. — Ground  fit  to  anchor  in. 
The  Anchor  is  a  Cock  Bill. — i.  e.  it  is  hanging 
by  the  Stopper  at  the  Cat  Head. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  223 

The  Anchor  is  a-peak. — i.  e.  near  to  the  Ship : 
thus  at  different  Distances  it  is  called  a  long  Peakj 
a  stai/  Peak,  a  short  Peak. 

The  Anchor  is  a-weigh  or  a-trip.-A,  e.  loosened 
from  the  Ground  by  heaving  in  the  Cable. 

The  A?ichor  is  backed. — i.  e.  another  Anchor  is 
placed  at  a  certain  distance  before  it,  and  attached  to 
it  by  the  Cable  of  the  former  beiiig  fastened  to  it, 
which  fixes  it  firmly  in  the  Ground. 

The  Anchor  is  catted.— i.  e.  drawn  up  to  the  Cat- 
head. 

The  Anchor  is  fished.— i.  e.  its  inner  Arm  is 
drawn  up  by  the  Fish  Pendant. 

To  loeigh  the  Anchor.—^o  heave  it  up  by  the 
Capstern  or  Windlass. 

The  Sheet  Anchor. — is  of  the  same  Size  and 
weight  as  the  two  Bower  Anchors  and  the  Spare  An- 
chor ;  it  is  a  resource,  and  dependence,  should  either 
of  the  Bowers  part,  for  which  purpose  the  Cable  is 
always  kept  ready  bent  with  a  long  Range,  that  it 
may  be  let  go  on  an  Emergency. 

Best  Bower  or  Small  Bower  Ajichors. — Are  the 
two  Anchors  which  are  stowed  the  furthest  forward, 
or  near  the  Bows. 

The  Stream  Anchor.— i^  used  to  bring  the  ship 
up  with  occasionally,  or  to  steady  a  Ship  wnen  she 
comes  to  a  temporary  Moorins^. 

The  Kedge  Anchor.— ^\\%  smallest -of  the  An- 


224  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

chors,  to  which   a  Hawser  or  Cablet  is  generally 
bent. 

An  End. — Any  Spar  or  Mast  placed  perpendicu- 
larly. The  Top?nasts  are  an  End,  ttiey  are  sway- 
ed up  and  fidded  above  the  lower  Mast.  All  an  end, 
all  the  Masts  are  up  in  their  proper  stations. 

A-peak.-'  See  Anchor. 

Ashore.— Oa  Land.     A-ground. 

J.-5/e7'?i.— Behind  the  Ship. 

^/Ai^;ar^." -Across.  Athwart  Hawse,  across  the 
Stem.  Athwart-ships,  any  thing  lying  in  a  direc- 
tion across  the  Ship.  Athwart  the  Fore  Foot,  a  shot 
j&red  by  another  Ship  across  the  Bows. 

A  trip.— See  Anchor.  The  Topsails  are  a-trip, 
i,  e.  hoisted  up. 

Avast.— To  cease  hauling.    To  stop. 

A-weiffh.'-See  Anchor. 

A-weather.— The  Helm  is  said  to  be  a-iveather, 
when  the  Tiller  is  put  over  to  the  windward  side  of 
the  Ship.  Hard  a-iveather^  when  it  is  put  over  as 
far  as  it  will  go. 

Awning.— A.  Canyass  Canopy  placed  over  the 
Deck,  when  the  Sun  is  powerful. 

To  Back  the  Sails.—To  expose  their  forward 
Surfaces  to  the  Wind,  by  hauling  in  the  weather 
Braces. 

Back  Stays.— ^o\)es  fixed  at  the  Topmast  and 
Top  G.illani  Mast  Head,  and  extended  to  the  Chains 
on  the  Ship's  sides. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  225 

To  hag-pijje  the  Mizen.—To  bring  the  Sheet 
over  to  the  weather  Mizen  Shrouds,  in  order  to  lay 
it  a-back. 

To  balance  the  Mizen.—'RoWing  up  a  Portion  of 
it  at  the  Peak. 

Ballast.— A  quantity  of  Iron,  Stone,  Gravel,  &c. 
placed  in  the  Hold  to  give  a  Ship  proper  Stability, 
when  she  has  no  Cargo,  or  but  a  small  quantity  of 
Goods,  (fee. 

Bands. — Pieces  of  Canvass  sewn  across  the  Sail, 
called  Reef-bands ;  also  a  piece  stuck  on  the  mid- 
dle of  a  Sail  to  strengthen  it,  when  half  worn. 

Bar."-A.  Shoal  running  across  the  Mouth  of  a 
Harbour. 

Capstern  Bars. —Vieces  of  Timber  put  into  the 
Holes  in  the  Drum  Head  of  the  Capstern,  (where 
they  are  secured,  with  iron  Pins)  to  heave  up'  the 
Anchor. 

Bare  Poles.— Having  no  Sail  up. 

Battens.— Slips  of  Wood  nailed  on  the  Slings  of 
the  Yards,  which  are  eiglit  square — also  over  the 
Tarpaulings  of  a  Hatchway,  to  keep  out  the  water 
in  stormy  weather. 

Bays.— hi.  Men  of  War,  the  starboard  and  larboard 
sides  between  Decks,  before  the  Bitts. 

Beams.— Strong;  Pieces  of  Timber  across  the  Ship, 
under  the  Decks,  bound  to  the  side  by  Knees.  They 
support  and  keep  the  Ship  together. 


226  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

On  the  Beam.-'Whan  the  Wind  blows  at  a  right 
Aiifi^Ie  with  the  Keel. 

Before  the  Beam.—When  the  Wind  or  Object 
bears  on  some  Point  less  than  a  right  Angle,  or 
ninety  Degrees,  from  the  Ship's  haad. 

Abaft  the  Beam.—When  the  Wind  or  Object 
bears  on  a  Point  which  is  more  than  a  right  Angle, 
or  ninety  Degrees,  from  the  Ship's  Course. 

Bearing.— The  Point  of  the  Compass  on  which 
any  Object  appears.  It  is  also  applied  to  an  Object 
which  lies  opposite  to  any  part  of  the  Ship— thus  the 
Buoy,  <fcc.  bears  on  the  Beam,  the  Bow,  the  Quar- 
ter, (fee. 

Beating'  to  Windioard. — Tacking,  and  endea- 
vouring to  get  to  windward  of  some  Head  Land. 

Becalmed.— Having  no  Wind  to  fill  the  Sails. 
The  Ship  being  deprived  of  the  Power  of  the  Wind 
by  the  intervention  of  high  land,  a  large  Ship,  <fec. 

jBec/t:e/5.--  Short  Straps,  having  an  Eye  in  one 
end,  and  a  donble-walled  Knot  on  the  other,  for  sus- 
pending a  Yard,  <fec.  till  wanted  :  such  are  the 
Beckets  for  the  Royal  Yards,  for  the  Bights  of  the 
Sheets,  <fcc. 

To  Belay.— To  make  fast. 

Bend.— A  kind  of  Knot— as  a  Sheet  Bend,  (fee— 
or  a  Seizing— such  as  the  Bends  of  the  Cable. 

To  Bend.— To  make  fast— as  to  bend  the  Sails, 
the  Cable,  <fec. 


227 

Bends.— The  Streaks  of  thick  Stuff,  or  strongest 
Planks  in  the  Ship's  sides,  on  the  broadest  Part. 
These  are  also  culled   Wales. 

Beticeen  Decks.— Any  part  of  the  Ship  below,  be- 
tween two  Decks. 

Bight.-  -Any  part  of  a  Rope  between  the  ends. 
Also  a  Collar  or  Eye  formed  by  a  Rope. 

Bilge. — The  flat  part  of  a  Ship's  bottom.  Bilge 
Wafer,  that  which  rests  in  the  Bilge,  either  from 
Rain,  shipping  Water,  <fec. 

Binnacle.— The  Frame,  or  Box  which  contains 
the  Compass. 

Birlh.—AplcLce  of  Anchorage.  A  Cabin,  or  Apart- 
ment. 

B  itts. —Ij^rge  upright  Pins  of  Timber,  with  a  Cross 
Piece,  over  which  the  Bight  of  the  Cable  is  put ;  also 
smaller  ones  to  belay  Ropes,  such  as  Topsail  Sheets, 
(fee. 

To  Bitt.— To  place  a  Bight  of  the  Cable  over  the 
Bitts. 

5Zoc/.;5.— Instruments  with  Sheaves  or  Pulleys, 
used  to  increase  the  Power  of  Ropes. 

Block  dnd  Block.— When  the  two  Blocks  of  a 
Tackle  are  drawn  so  close  together  that  there  is  no 
more  of  the  Fall  left  to  haul  upon  ;  it  is  also  termed 
chock  ahlock. 

To  make  a  Board.—To  tack. 

To  make  a  Stern  Board. — To  drive  a  Ship  siern 
foremost,  by  laying  the  Sails  a-back. 


228  HEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

Boarding.— 'Entering  an  Enemy's  Ship  by  force. 
These  Men  are  called  Boarders. 

Boarding  Netting.-  -'Setwork  triced  round  the 
Ship,  to  prevent  the  Boarders  from  entering. 

Boats.— SmaW  Vessels— those  belongino-  to  Ships 
are— the  Long  Boat,  the  Launch,  the  Cutter ,  the 
Yawl,  and  the  Jolly  Boat. 

Boatswain.— The  Officer  who  has  the  charge  of 
the  Cordage,  Boats,  Rigging,  (fcc. 

Bobstai/s.— Ropes  rove  through  the  Cutwater, 
and  set  up  with  Dead  Eyes  under  the  Bowsprit,  to 
act  against  the  power  of  the  Fore  Stays— sometimes 
one  of  these  is  taken  to  the  end  of  the  Bowsprit,  to 
act  against  the  Fore  Topmast  Stays. 

£o/5-^er5.— Pieces  of  Wood,  or  Canvass  stuffed, 
placed  on  the  lower  Tressle  Trees,  to  keep  the  Rig- 
ging from  chafing. 

Bolts.— Ivon  Fastenings,  by  which  the  ^Ship  is  se- 
cured in  her  Hull. 

Bolt  JRopes.— Ropes  sewn  round  the  edges  of  the 
Sails. 

Booms.— li3iTge  Poles  used  to  extend  the  Studding 
Sails,  Spanker,  &c.     Also,  spare  Yards,  Masts,  (fcc. 

Boom  Irons.— Iron  Caps  fixed  on  the  Yard  Arms 
for  the  Studding-sail  Booms  to  rest  in. 

Bov^s.—The  round  part  of  the  Ship  forward. 

To  Bowse.— To  haul  upon. 

Bower.— See  Anchor. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  229 

Botolines. — Ropes  made  fast  to  the  Leeches  or 
Sides  of  the  Sails,  to  pull  them  forwards. 

Bowsprit. — A  Mast  projecting  over  the  Stem. 

Box  hauling.— A.  Method  of  waring  or  turning  a 
Ship  from  the  Wind. 

Boxing  q^.— Turning  the  Ship's  Head  ftova  the 
Wind,  by  backing  the  Head  Sails. 

Braces. — Ropes  fastened  to  the  Yard  Arms  to 
brace  them  about.  Also  a  security  to  the  Rudder, 
fixed  to  the  Stern  Post. 

Brails. — Ropes  applied  to  the  after  Leeches  of  the 
Mizen,  and  some  of  the  Staysails,  to  draw..them  up. 

To  break  Bulk. — To  begin  to  unload. 

To  break  the  Sheer. — To  swei-ve  from  the  proper 
direction  in  which  a  Ship  should  be  when  at  Anchor. 

Breaming. — Burning  the  stuff  which  is  collected 
on  the  Ship's  bottom  during  a  long  voyage. 

Breast  Hooks. — Pieces  of  Timber  placed  across 
the  Bows  of  the  Ship,  to  keep  them  together. 

Breast  Work. — Railing  on  the  fore  part  of  the 
(Quarter  Deck,  where  Ropes  are  belayed. 

Breeching. — A  stout  Rope  fixed  to  the  Cascabel 
of  a  Gun,  fastened  to  the  Ship's  side,  to  prevent  its 
running  in. 

Bridles. — The  upper  part  of  the  Moorings  laid  in 

harbours  for  Men  of  War.     Also  Ropes  attached  from 

the  Leeches  of  the  square  Sails  to  the  Bowlines. 

To  bring  up. — To  come  to  an  Anchor. 
20 


Jf 


230  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

To  bring  to.— To  make  a  Ship  stationary,  stop- 
ping her  way^y  bracing  some  of  the  Sails  aback,' 
and  keeping  others  full,  so  that  they  counterpoise 
each  other. 

To  bring-  by  the  Z/ee.--When  a  Ship  is  sailing 
with  the  Wind  very  large,  and  flies  oif  from  it  so  as 
to  bring  it  on  the  other  side,  the  sails  catching  a- 
back  :  she  is  then  said  to  be  brought  by  the  Lee— 
this  is  a  dangerous  position  in  a  high  Sea. 

To  broach  ^o.— Flying  up  in  the  Wind  so  as  to 
bring  it  on  the  other  side,  when  blowing  fresh. 

Bulk  heads,— VdiXiiXions  in  the  Ship. 

BulVs  Eye.—K  wooden  Thimble. 
•    Bumkin  or  Boomkin.—K  short  Boom  fitted  to  the 
Bows  of  the  Ship  for  the  purpose  of  hauling  down 
the  fore  Tack  to.     It  is  supported  on  each  side  by  a 
Shroud. 

Buntr--The,  middle  part  of  a  square  Sail.  Also 
the  fore  Leech  of  a  quadrangular  Staysail. 

Buntlbies.—'Ro^Qs  attached  to  the  foot  of  a  square 
Sail  to  haul  it  up. 

Burton  Pendents. — The  first  piece  of  rigging 
which  goes  over  the  Topmast  Head,  to  which  is  hook- 
ed a  Tackle,  to  set  up  the  Topmast  Shrouds. 

B2ish. — Metal  let  into  the  Sheaves  of  Blocks  which 
have  iron  Pins. 

Butt  End. — The  end  of  a  Plank  in  the  Ship's 
side. 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT.  231 

Buttock, — That  parf  of  the  Ship's  Hull  under  the 
Stern,  between  the'  Water  Line  and  Wing  Transom. 

By  the  Board. — Over  the  side.  A  Mast  is  said  to 
go  by  the  Board  when  it  is  carried  or  shot  away  just 
above  the  Deck. 

By  the  Head. — When  a  Ship  is  deeper  in  the 
Water  forward  than  aft. 

By  the  Stern. — The  reverse  of  by  the'^Head. 

By  the  Wind, — When  a  Ship  is  as  near  to  the 
Wind  as  her  Head  can  lie  with  the  Sails  filled. 

Cabin, — A  Room  or  Apartment :  also  a  Bed  Place; 

Cable, — A  large  Rope  by  which  the  Ship  is  secur- 
ed to  the  Anchor.  Cables  take  their  names  from  the 
Anchors  to  which  they  belong,  as  the  JSheet  Cable, 
the  best  Bower  Cable,  &c.  they  are  generally  120 
Fathoms  in  length. 

To  bitt  the  Cable.— See  Bitts. 

To  heave  in  the  Cable. — To  pull  it  into  the  Ship 
by  the  Capstern  or  Windlass. 

To  pay  out  the  Cable. — To  stick  it  out  of  the 
Hawse  Hole. 

To  veer  aivay  the  Cable. — To  slacken  it  so  that 
that  it  may  run  out,  as  in  paying  out. 

To  serve  the  Cable. — To  wrap  it  round  with  Rope 
Plait,  or  Horse  Hide,  to  keep  it  from  chafing. 

To  slip  the  Cable. — To  let  it  run  clear  out. 

Cable  Tier. — That  part  of  the  orlop  Deck  where 
the  Cables  are  coiled. 


232  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR  ^ 

v.. 

To  coil  the  Cable. — To  lay  it  on  the  Deck  in  a 
circular  form. 

Caboose. — The  place  where  the  Victuals  are  dress- 
ed in  Merchant-men. 

Call — A  silver  Pipe  or  Whistle  used  by  the  Boat- 
swain and  his  Mates,  by  the  sounding  of  which  they 
call  up  the  hands,  direct  them  to  haul^  to  veer,  to  be- 
lay,  &c.    ^ 

Canted* — Any  thing  turned  from  its  square 
position. 

Canvass, — Strong  Cloth,  of  which  the  Sails  are 
made. 

Cap. — A  Block  of  Wood  which  secures  the  Top- 
mast to  the  lower  Mast. 

Capsize. — To  turn  over. 

Capstern. — A  Machine  for  drawing  up  the  Anchor 
by  the  Messenger,  which  is  taken  round  it,  and  ap- 
plied to  the  Cable  by  the  Nippers. 

Careening. — Heaving  a  Yessel  down  one  side,  to 
clean  or  repair  her  Bottom. 

Carrick  Bend.— A  kind  of  Knot. 

To  Cast.— To  pay  a  Ship's  Head  off  by  backing 
the  Head  Sails  when  heaving  up  the  Anchor,  sc  as 
to  bring  the  Wind  on  the  side  required. 

Cat  Block.— A  large  double  or  three-fold  Block 
used  for  drawing  the  Anchor  up  to  the  Cat-head. 

Cat  Head.— A.  large  piece  of  Timber  or  Crane 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  233 

projecting  over  the  Bow* for  drawing  up  the  Anchor 
clear  from  the  Ship's  side. 

Cat-harpins. — Short  legs  of  Rope  seized  to  the 
upper  part  of  the  lower  Shrouds,  and  Futtock  Staves, 
to  keep  them  from  bulging  out  by  the  strain  of  the 
Futtock  Shrouds,  and  to  permit  the  bracing  up  of 
the  lower  Yards. 

Cafs-paw. — A  light  Air  perceived  by  its  effect  on 
the  Water,  but  not  durable.  Also  a  twist  made  on 
the  Bight  of  a  Rope. 

To  Caulk. — To  drive  Oakum  into  the  Seams  of 
the  Sides,  Decks,  (fee. 

Chains. — Links  of  Iron  bolted  to  the  Ship's  side, 
having  dead  Eyes  in  the  upper  ends,  to  which  the 
Shrouds  are  connected  by  the  Lanyards. 

Channels. — Strong  broad  Planks  bolted  to  the 
sides,  to  keep  the  dead  Eyes  in  the  Chains  from  the 
side,  to  spread  the  Rigging  further  out. 

Chapelling- — A  Ship  is  said  to  build  a  Chapel, 
when  by  neglect  in  light  winds  she  turns  round  so  as 
to  bring  the  Wind  on  the  same  part  which  it  was  be- 
fore she  moved. 

Chase. — A  Ship  pursued  by  another. 

Bow  Chase. — A  Gun  in  the  fore  part  of  the  Ship. 

/Stern  Chase. — A  gun  pointing  a-stern  in  the  after 
part  of  the  Ship . 

To  Chase, — To  pursue,  to  follow. 

20* 


234  '  KEDQE  ANCHOR,  OR 

To  Cheer. — To  huzza.  What  cheer  ho !  A  sa- 
lutation. 

Chock-a-block. — See  Block  and  Block. 

To  clap  on. — To  make  fast,  as  "  clap  on  the  stop- 
pei^s"  (^c. 

To  claio  off. — To  beat  to  windward  from  a  lee- 
shore. 

Cleats. — Pieces  of  Wood  to  fasten  Ropes  to. 

Close-hauled. — As  near  the  Wind  as  the  Ship  can 
lie. 

Club-hauling. — Tacking  by  means  of  an  Anchor. 

Clues  ^  or  Clews. — The  lower  Corners  of  the  square 
Sails. 

Coamings. — The  Borders  of  the  Hatchways  which 
are  raised  above  the  Deck. 

Coilifig. — Laying  a  Rope  down  in  a  circular  form. 

Companion. — A  wooden  Covering  over  the  Cabin 
Hatchway. 

Course, — The  Point  of  the  Compass  on  which  the 
Ship  sails.  The  Mainsail,  Foresail,  and  Mizen,  are 
also  called  Courses. 

Crab. — A  small  Capstern. 

To  cun  the  Ship. — To  direct  the  Helm's-man  how 
to  steer. 

Cut-water. — The  Knee  of  the  Head. 

Davit. — A  Crane  of  Timber  used  for  fishing  the 
Anchors. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  235 

Dead  Eye. — A  Block  with  three  Holes  in,  to  re- 
ceive the  Lanyard  of  a  Shroud  or  Stay. 

Dog-Vane. — A  small  Yane  made  of  Cork  and 
Feathers,  placed  on  the  weather  side  of  the  Quarter 
Deck. 

DolpJiin. — A  wreath  of  Rope  placed  round  a  Mast 
(see  Pudding.) 

To  Douse. — To  let  fly  the  Halliards  of  a  Topsail 
— to  lower  away  briskly,  (fcc. 

Doxon-hauler . — A  Rope  to  pull  down  the  Stay- 
sails, Topmast  Studding  Sails,  <fec. 

Drift. — Driving  to  leeward — driving  with  the 
Tide.  Drifts  are  also  those  parts  where  the  Rails 
are  cut  off  and  end  with  Scrolls. 

Driver. — A  large  Sail  suspended  to  the  Mizen 
Gaff. 

Dunnage. — Wood,  &c.  laid  at  the  Bottom  of  a 
Ship  to  keep  the  Cargo  dry. 

Barings. — Small  Ropes  to  make  fast  the  upper 
Corners  of  square  Sails,  &c. 

Ease  off. — To  slacken. 

End  for  End. — To  let  a  Rope  or  Cable  run  quite 
out. 

End  on. — When  a  Ship's  Bows  and  Head  Sails 
kre  only  seen. 

Fag  End. — The  end  of  a  Rope  which  is  un- 
twisted. 

Fake. — One  Circle  of  a  Coil  of  Rope. 


236  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

Falling  off. — When  a  Ship  moves  from  the  AVind 
further  than  she  ought. 

Fid. — A  tapered  piece  of  Wood  or  Iron  to  splice 
Ropes  with.  Also  a  piece  of  Wood  which  supports 
one  Mast  upon  the  Tressle-trees  of  another. 

To  Jill. — To  brace  the  Yards  so  that  the  wind  may- 
strike  the  Sails  on  their  after  Surfaces. 

Flukes. — The  broad  Parts  or  Palms  of  the  An- 
chors. 

Fore. — That  part  of  the  Ship  nearest  to  the  Head. 

Fore  and  Aft. — The  length- way  of  the  Ship,  or 
in  the  direction  of  the  Keel. 

Fore  Castle. — A  short  Deck  in  the  fore  part  of  the 
Ship. 

Forging  a-head. — Forced  a-head  by  the  Wind. 

Foul  Hawse. — When  the  Cables  are  twisted. 

To  Founder. — To  sink. 

Full  and  hy. — See  close-hauled. 

Furling. — Making  fast  the  Sails  to  the  Yards  by 
the  Gaskets. 

Gaff. — A  Spar  or  Yard  to  which  the  Mizen  of  a 
Ship  or  the  Mainsail  of  a  Brig  or  Cutter  is  bent. 

Gang-way. — A  Platform  reaching  from  the>Cluar- 
ter  Deck  to  the  Fore-castle  on  each  side.  Also  the 
place  where  persons  enter  the  Ship. 

Gasket. — A  piece  of  Plait  to  fasten  the  Sails  to  the 
Yard, 


237 

Girt. — A  Ship  is  girted  when  her  Cables  are  too 
tight,  which  prevents  her  swinging. 

Goose  J\eck. — An  iron  Hook  at  the  end  of  a  Boom. 

Goose  Wings. — The  outer  extremities  of  a  Main 
or  Foresail  when  loose,  the  rest  of  it  being  furled. 

Goring. — Cutting  a  Sail  obliquely. 

Gripe. — A  piece  of  Timber  which  joins  the  Keel 
and  the  Cutwater. 

Griping. — When  a  ship  carries  her  Helm  much 
to  windward. 

Gunnel.— The  upper  part  of  a  Ship's  side. 

Guy.— A.  rope  to  steady  a  Boom,  (fcc. 

Gybing. '--When  (by  the  Wind  being  large)  it  is 
necessary  to  shift  the  Boom  of  a  fore  and  aft  Sail. 

Halliards.— TdiCkles  or  Ropes  to  hoist  up  the  Sails. 

To  Hand.— The  same  as  to  furl. 

Hatch-way.— A  square  Hole  in  the  Deck,  which 
communicates  with  the  Hold  or  another  Deck. 

To  Haul.  --To  Pull. 

To  Hail.— To  call  out  to  another  Ship. 

A  Clear  Hawse.— When  the  Cables  are  not  twisted. 

A  Foul  HaiOse.—When  the  Cables  lie  across,  or  are 
twisted. 

Haivse  Holes.— The  Holes  through  which  the  Ca- 
bles pass. 

Hawser.— A  small  Cable. 

To  Heel.— To  incline  to  one  side. 


238  KEDQE    ANCHOR,    OR 

The  Helm."- A  wooden  Bar  put  through  the  Head 
of  a  Rudder — also  called  a  Tiller. 

To  Hitch.'-Ho  make  fast. 

The  Hold. — The  lower  apartment  of  a  Ship  where 
the  provisions  and  goods  are  stowed. 

To  Haul  Home. — To  pull  the  Clew  of  a  Sail,  <fec. 
as  far  as  it  will  go. 

Horse. — A  Rope  made  fast  to  the  Yard,  on  which 
the  Men  stand. 

Hull—ThQ  body  of  a  Ship. 

Jeioel  Blocks. — Blocks  at  the  Topsail  Yard  Arms, 
for  the  Topmast  Studding  Sail  Halliards. 

Jigger. — A  purchase  used  in  Merchant  Ships  to 
hold  on  the  Cable. 

Junk. — Pieces  of  old  Cable,  out  of  which  Mats, 
Gaskets,  (fee.  are  made. 

Jury  Masts. — Temporary  Masts,  stepped  when  the 
others  are  carried  or  shot  away. 

Keckling. — Old  Rope  passed  round  the  Cable  at 
short  distances. 

Kink. — A  twist  or  turn  in  a  Rope. 

To  Labour. — To  pitch  and  roll  heavily. 

Land-fall. — Discovering  the  Land. 

Larboard. — The  left  Side. 

Launch  ho  ! — To  let  go  the  top  Rope  when  the 
T(^mast  is  fidded. 

Le&ward.—l^h.dii  point  towards  which  the  Wind 
blows. 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  239 

Lee-lurch. — When  the  Ship  rolls  to  leeward. 

Lee-ioay, — The  lateral  movement  of  a  Ship  to 
leeward. 

Lee  Tide. — When  the  Wind  and  Tide  are  the 
same  Way. 

Lizard. — A  small  piece  of  Rope  with  a  Thimble, 
spliced  into  a  larger  one. 

Looming. — The  appearance  of  a  distant  Object 
such  as  a  Ship,  the  Land,  (fee. 

Lubber. — A  Sailor  who  does  not  know  his  duty. 

Luff. — A  direction  to  the  Steer's-man  to  put  the 
Helm  to  leeward. 

Luff  Tackle. — A  large  Tackle,  consisting  of  a 
double  and  a  single  Block. 

Lying  to. — See  to  bring  to. 

To  Man  the  Yards. — To  send'' Men  upon  them. 

Messenger. — A  Rope  attached  to  the  Cable,  to 
heave  up  the  Anchor  by. 

Mizen. — The  aftermost  Sail  in  a  Ship. 

To  Moor. — To  secure  a  Ship  by  more  than  one 
Cable.  - 

Moorings. — The  place  where  a  Vessel  is  moored. 
Also  Anchors  with  Chains  and  Bridles  laid  in  Rivers 
for  Men  of  War  to  ride  by. 

^Neap  Tides. — Those  Tides  which  happen  when 
the  Moon  is  in  her  (Quarters,  and  are  not  so  high^as 
the  Spring  Tides. 


240 

Neaped, — A  Ship  is  said  to  be  neaped  when  she 
is  left  on  Shore  by  these  Tides,  and  must  wait  for 
the  next  Spring  Tides. 

To  Near  the  Land. — To  approach  the  Shore. 

No  Near. — A  direction  to  the  Hehn's-man  to  put 
the  Hehn  a  little  a- weather,  to  keep  the  Sails  full. 
To  let  her  come  no  nearer  to  the  Wind. 

Nippers. — Plaiting  or  Selvages  to  bind  the  Cable 
to  the  Messenger. 

Off  and  On. — Coming  near  the  Land  on  one  Tack, 
and  leaving  it  on  the  other. 

Offing. — Out  to  Sea — from  the  Land. 

Orlop  Deck. — The  lowest  Deck  in  the  Ship,  lying 
on  the  beams  of  the  Hold.  The  place  vvhere  the 
Cables  are  coiled^,  and  where  other  Stores  are  kept. 

Overboard. — Out  of  the  Ship. 

Overhauling. — ^To  haul  a  fall  of  Rope  through  a 
Block  till  it  is  slack.    Also  examining  a  Ship,  (fcc. 

Painter. — A  Rope  by  which  a  Boat  is  made  fast. 

To  Pass. — To  hand  anything  from  one  to  another ; 
or  to  place  a  Rope  or  Lashing  round  a  Yard,  (fee. 

To  pay. — To  rub  Tar,  Pitch,  (fee.  on  any  thing, 
with  a  Brush. 

To  pay  off. — To  make  a  Ship's  Head  recede  from 
the  Wind  by  backing  the  Head  Sails,  (fee. 
*     4ro  peak  up. — To  raise  the  after  end  of  a  Gaff. 

Plying. — Turning  to  windward. 


241 

Pooping, — A  Ship  is  said  to  be  pooped,  when  she 
is  struck  by  a  heavy  Sea,  on  the  Stern  or  (Quarter. 

Port. — To  the  left  side.  This  term  is  used  to  the 
Helm's-man  to  put  the  Helm  to  the  left,  instead  of 
the  word  "  larboard,^^ — to  make  a  distinction  from 
the  affinity  of  sound  in  the  word  starboard. 

Preventer. — Any  thing  for  temporary  security; 
as.  a  Preventer  Brace,  &c. 

Quarter. — That  part  of  a  Ship's  side  between  the 
Main  Chains  and  the  Stern. 

Racking  a  Fall. — Seizing  the  parts  of  ^  Tackle- 
fall  together  by  cross  turns. 

Rake. — ^The  projection  of  a  Ship  at  the  Stem  and 
Stern,  beyond  the  extent  of  the  Keel — also  the  incli- 
nation of  a  Ship's  Masts  either  forward  or  aft  from  a 
perpendicular  Line. 

Range  of  Cable. — A  sufficient  length  hauled  up, 
to  permit  the  Anchor  to  drop  to  the  bottom. 

To  rattle  down  the  Shrouds. — To  fix  the  Rat- 
lings on  them. 

To  reef. — To  reduce  a  Sail,  by  tying  it  round 
the  Yard  with  points. 

To  reeve. — To  put  a  Rope  through  a  Block,  &c. 

To  ride.--To  be  held  by  the  Cable.     To  "  ride 

easy,"  is  when  a  Ship  does  not  labour  much.     To 

"  ride  hard,"  is  when  the  Ship  pitches  with  violence. 

To  rig. — To  fit  the  Rigging  to  the  Masts. 

To  right. — A  Ship  is  said  to  right  when  she  ris- 
21 


242  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

es  to  her  upright  position,  after  being  laid  down  by 
a  violent  squall. 

To  right  the  Helm. — To  put  it  a-midships,  or  in 
its  fore  and  aft  position,  parallel  to  the  Keel. 

To  round  in. — To  haul  in  a  Brace,  <fcc.  which  is 
not  very  tight. 

To  rouse  in. — To  haul  in  the  slack  part  of  the 
Cable. 

To  run  down. — When  one  Ship  sinks  another  by 
running  over  her. 

To  scud. — To  sail  before  the  Wind  in  a  storm. 

To  scuttle  a  ship. — To  make  holes  in  her  bottom 
to  sink  her. 

To  serve. — To  wind  any  thing  round  a  Cable  or 
aope,  to  prevent  its  being  chafed. 

To  seize. — To  make  fast  or  bind. 

To  sheer. — To  go  in  and  out,  and  not  in  a  direct 
course. 

To  ship.  — To  put  any  thing  on  board. — To  "  ship 
a  >S'ea,"  when  the  Sea  breaks  into  the  Ship. 

To  shiver. — To  make  the  Sails  shake. 

The  Slack  of  a  Rope,  ^c— That    part   which 
hangs  loose. 
'    To  slip  a  Cable.— To  let  it  run  out  to  the  end. 

To  slue. — To  turn  any  thing  about. 

To  sound. — To  find  the  bottom  by  a  leaden  Plum- 
met. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  243 

To  take  a  Spell. — To  be  in  turn  on  duty  at  the 
Lead,  the  Pump,  <fec. 

To  spill. — To  take  the  Wind  out  of  the  Sails  by 
the  Braces,  &c.  in  order  to  reef  or  hand  them. 

To  splice. — To  join  two  ropes  together,  by  uniting 
the  Strands. 

Spoondrift. — A  continued  flying  of  the  Spray 
and  Waves  over  the  Surface  of  the  Sea. 

To  spring  a  Mast.— -To  crack  or  spUt  it. 

A  Spring. — A  Rope  made  fast  to  the  Cable  at  the 
Bow,  and  taken  in  abaft,  in  order  to  expose  the 
Ship's  side  to  any  direction. 

Spring  Tides.— The  highest  Tides  at  the  Full 
and  Change  of  the  Moon. 

To  stand  on. — To  keep  in  the  Course. 

To  stand  hy. — To  be  ready. 

Starboard. — The  right  side. 

To  steer. — To  manage  a  Ship  by  the  movement 
of  the  Helm. 

To  stopper  the  Cable. — To  keep  it  from  running 
out,  by  fastening  short  Ropes  to  it,  called  Stoppers. 

Strand. — One  of  the  Divisions  of  a  Rope. 

Stranded. — When  one  of  the  Divisions  is  broken^ 
Also  when  a  Ship  is  run  on  Shore  so  that  she  cannot* 
be  got  off,  she  is  said  to  be  Stranded. 

To  Stretch. — To  stand  on  different  Tacks  under 
a  press  of  Sail. 

To  Strike. — To  beat  against  tho  bottom.     Also  to 


244  KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

lower  the  Flag  in  token  of  submission.    Lowering 
the  Topmasts  is  commonly  termed  striking  them. 

To  surge  the  Messenger. — To  slack  it  suddenly. 

To  sioay. — To  hoist  up  the  Yards  and  Topmasts. 

To  swing. — To  turn  a  Ship  from  one  side  of  her 
Anchor  to  the  other,  at  the  change  of  the  Tide. 

To  tack. — To  turn  a  Ship  by  the  Sails  and  Rud- 
der against  the  wind. 

Taught. — A  corruption  of  Tight. 

Taunt. — Long,  Lofty. 

Tending. — The  movement  of  a  Vessel  in  swing- 
ing at  Anchor. 

Tier, — The  place  where  Cables  are  coiled. 

Traverse, — To  sail  on  different  Courses.  When 
a  rope  runs  freely  through  a  Thimble,  ifcc.  it  is  said 
to  traverse. 

Trying. — Laying  to  in  a  Gale  of  Wind  under 
a  small  Sail. 

Turning  to  Windward. — Tacking.  " 

Twice-laid  Stuff. — Rope  made  from  the  Yarns  of 
a  Cable,  &c.  which  has  been  half  worn. 

To  veer  and  haul. — To  pull  a  Rope  and  then 
slacken  it. 

To  unbend. — To  cast  loose. 
To  unmoor. — To  reduce  a  Ship  to  a  single  An- 
chor, after  riding  by  two. 

To  unreeve. — To  pull  a  Rope  out  of  a  Block. 
To  unrig. — To  deprive  a  Ship  of  her  Rigging. 


245 

To  unship. — To  take  any  thing  from  the  place  in 
which  it  was  fixed. 

Waist  of  a  Ship. — The  part  between  the  Main 
and  Fore  Drifts — also  a  term  sometimes  used  for  the 
spare  or  waste  Anchor,  from  its  being  stowed  near 
the  Fore  Drift,  or  Fore  Part  of  the  Waist. 

Wake.— The  Track  left  by  the  Ship  on  the  Wa- 
ter which  she  has  passed  over. 

Wales. — See  Bends. 

To  loare. — To  turn  a  Ship  round  from  the  Wind. 

T'o  vmrp. — To  move  a  Ship  by  Hawsers,  <fec. 

Watch, — A  division  of  the  Ship's  company  who 
keep  the  Deck  for  a  certain  time.  One  is  called  star- 
hoards  and  the  other  the  larboard  Watch. 

Water-logged. — The  state  of  a  leaky  Ship  when 
she  is  so  full  of  Water  as  to  be  heavy  and  unman- 
ageable. 

Way  of  a  Ship. — Her  progress  through  the  Wa- 
ter. 

To  weather  a  Ship. — To  get  to  windward  of  her. 

A  weather  Tide. — A  Tide  or  Stream  which  runs 
to  windward. 

Weather-beaten. — Any  thing  worn  or  damaged 
^y  bad  weather. 

To  toeigh. — To  heave  the  Anchor  out  of  the 
Ground. 

To  lohip. — To  bind  the  end  of  a  Rope  with  Yarn, 

21* 


246  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OH 

to  prevent  its  untwisting — also  to  hoist  any  thingTjy 
a  Rope  which  is  reeved  through  a  single  Block. 

Wind's  Eye. — That  point  from  which  the  wind 
blows  in  a  direct  Line. 

Between  Wind  and  Water. — That  part  of  the 
Ship's  bottom  which  is  just  at  the  surface  of  the  Wa- 
ter, or  what  is  called  the  Water  Line. 

To  wind  a  Boat^  ^c. — To  turn  it  round  from  its 
original  Position. 

Wind-rode. — When  the  Ship  is  kept  a-stern,  &c. 
of  her  Anchor  solely  by  the  Wind. 

To  Windward, — Towards  that  point  from  whence 
the  Wind  blows. 

To  work  to  Windward. — To  make  a  progress 
against  the  Wind  by  Tacking. 


247 


MISCELLANEOUS    ARTICLES. 


1.  Boatsioain. 

This  officer  ho!ds  a  station  in  the  Ship  of  the 
greatest  possible  utility.  To  all  other  inferior  officers 
a  specified  duty  is  assigned,  but  with  the  Boatswain  it 
is  otherwise,  and  consequently  his  vigilance  should 
ever  be  on  the  alert,  and  his  eyes  should  be  every 
where.  He  ought  for  example  to  be  a  thorough 
seaman,  and  a  good  rigger,  he  should  be  active 
of  limb,  quick  of  sight,  and  ready  in  the  exercise 
of  his  mental  faculties,  but  all  these  qualifica- 
tions will  fall  short  of  their  due  eflfect,  unless  he  be 
possessed  of  good  temper  and  be  of  sober  habits.  Al- 
though the  Boatswain  is  to  consider  himself  a  day 
officer,  he  should  bear  in  mind,  that  at  night  he  is 
subject  to  the  call  of  the  Lieutenant  of  the  Watch. 
The  Boatswain  will  be  required  to  inspect  every 
morning  the  standing  and  running  rigging,  and  re- 
port their  state  to  the  Officer  of  the  Watch.  Should 
repairs  be  needed,  or  new  rope  required,  he  is  to  in- 
form the  first  Lieutenant  immediately  afterwards. 


248  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

2.  Squaring  Yards.     [Hints.) 

Simple  as  may  seem  the  process  of  Squaring  Yards, 
it  is  nevertheless  a  piece  of  duty,  which  requires  a 
considerable  degree  of  precision.  And  this  preci- 
sion can  never  be  obtained,  without  a  knowledge 
of  the  principle  upon  which  the  yards  should  be 
s  quared. 

A  Boatswain,  ignorant  of  this  principle,  will  gene- 
rally proceed  thus ;  he  first  BowSes  taut  the  lower 
Trusses,  squares  the  yards  by  the  Braces,  and  quite  re- 
gardless of  the  distance  of  the  Topsail  Yards  from  their 
respective  Caps,  or  looking  to  see  if  the  yards  are  amid- 
ships, directs  the  Chief  Boatswain's  Mates  to  take  his 
station  on  the  Jib  Boom  end,  whilst  he  himself  pro- 
ceeds in  the  Boat  ahead  of  the  ship,  to  square  the 
Yards  by  the  Lifts.  Should  the  foreyard  be  required 
to  be  topped  to  Starboard,  the  Boatswain  will  top 
away  upon  that  yard  Arm,  until  by  chance  he  disco- 
~  vers  he  has  topped  it  too  high  ;  to  remedy  this  eye- 
sore, he  then  sings  out  "  Foreyard  to  Port,"  and  Tops 
until  he  raises  the  Larboard  Yard  Arm  as  high  as 
the  Starboard.  Producing  by  this  a  system  of  top- 
ping and  never  settling  a  most  unsightly  bow  in  the 
yard.  He  then  squares  the  Foretopsail  yard,  by  the 
towed  foreyard,  and  of  course  treats  the  fore  Topsail 
yarji  to  a  bit  of  a  bend  likewise.  He  then  takes  the 
Main  yard  in  hand,  which  though  probably  square  by 


249 

the  Lifts,  can  no  longer  look  so  in  his  eye,  because 
the  yard  arms  are  not  made  to  cock  up  like  those  of 
the  foreyard.  "  Main  Yard  to  Starboard,"  he  sings 
out  with  an  audible  voice,  the  Lift  is  topped  several 
feet  to  Starboard,  and  then  to  Port,  until  the  yard 
assumes  the  desired  Cock  the  Boatswain  has  in  his 
eye.  In  squaring  the  Loftier  yards  by  the  Lifts, 
Boatswains  seldom  take  the  precaution  of  placing 
hands  to  attend  the  Top  Gallant  Braces.  It  should 
be  remembered,  that  the  topping  of  the  Lifts,  alter 
and  disturb  the  square  position  of  the  yards  by  the 
Braces, — these  may  appear  minute  matters,  but  un- 
less they  be  strictly  observed,  yards  never  can  be  pro- 
perly squared. 

Hints.  Before  squaring  yards  the  Boatswain  is  re- 
commended to  see  that  the  Masts  and  particularly 
the  lofty  spars  are  upright  and  all  in  one.  It  fre- 
quently happens  that  after  the  Boatswain  has  squared 
all  the  yards  fore  and  aft,  he  detects  an  awkward 
inclination  in  one  of  the  Top  Gallant  Masts  ;  he 
nevertheless  returns  on  board,  and  reports  to  the 
senior  Lieutenant,  yards  squared  and  ropes  taut,  but 
afterwards  desires  the  Captain  of  the  Top  to  get"" 
a  pull  of  the  Starboard  or  Larboard  Top  Gallant 
Breast  Back  stay,  forgetting  that  this  very  pull  affects 
the  Top  Gallant  Lifts,  and  consequently  alters  the 
position  of  the  yards.  The  first  thing  after  the  masts 
are  all  in  one,  or  upright  as  you  choose  to  term  it,  is 


250  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

to  get  your  yards  exactly  amidships  by  your  Rolling 
Tackles,  and  then  get  them  snugly  trussed  to  the 
mast  and  square  them  by  the  braces. 

Note.  All  yards  above  the  Lower  yards,  ought  to 
be  the  depth  of  the  cap,  above  the  cap,  before  you  at- 
tempt to  square  it  by  either  Lifts,  or  Braces.  Wlien 
squaring  yards  you  ought  to  be  very  particular  not 
to  bow  your  yards  up,  nor  yet  to  let  the  yard  arms 
droop  down,  but  be  very  particular  that  your  yards 
lay  perfectly  parallel,  for  it  looks  bad  to  see  a  ship's 
yards  bow  up,  and  it  looks  still  worse,  to  see  them 
droop  down.  In  squaring  your  Top  Gallant  yards, 
you  ought  to  be  very  particular  in  attending  the  braces, 
when  you  are  topping  on  your  Top  Gallant  Lifts. 
When  you  top  on  either  of  your  Lifts,  you  ought  to 
slack  the  brace  at  the  same  time,  and  let  a  careful 
hand  look  out  for  the  yard,  to  see  that  it  is  square  by 
the  braces.  It  not  unfrequently  happens  that  after 
the  Boatswain  makes  his  report  to  the  Senior  Lieu- 
tenant or  the  officer  of  the  watch,  that  "  Everything 
is  well  and  in  order  aloft,"  Shirts,  Trowsers,  and  of- 
ten scrubbed  Hammocks,  are  seen  from  other  ships, 
suspended  before  the  heel  of  the  Topmast,  or  in  po- 
sitions purposely  sought,  to  avoid  the  eye  of  the  Of- 
ficer of  the  deck,  or  first  Lieutenant. 


\ 


251 
3.   Turning  the  Hands  up.     {Hints.) 

In  turning  the  Hands  up  or  calling  the  Crew  to 
the  performance  of  their  duties,  the  Boatswain  tooof< 
ten  indulges  in  piercing  pipes,  and  drawling  tones  of 
superfluous  length.  Boatswains  have  a  singular 
propensity  to  demonstrate  the  soundness  of  their 
lungs,  by  an  endless  protraction  of  a  note  on  their 
piercing  pipes — they  should  not  be  so  fond  of  supply- 
ing the  deficiency  of  Sea  birds. 

This  is  not  the  worst  feature  in  their  taste,  for 
when  at  last  they  utter  the  required  summons,  they 
give  it  forth  in  tones  so  drawling,  that  the  first  words 
are  often  forgotten  before  the  last  words  are  out. 

Note.  A-l-l  H-a-nd-s  a-b-ou-t  JS-h-i-p. — 
This  lengthy  summons,  and  a  longer  winded  whistle, 
and  each  pipe  and  phrase  three  times  repeated  by  the 
Boatswain  and  his  mates,  the  ship  may  be  ashore  be- 
fore the  leader  of  the  band  is  convinced  how  dearly 
he  has  «  Paid  for  the  Whistle." 


4.  Inspections^  {Morn  ing  and  Evenivg.)  Hints. 

In  the  morning  the  Boatswain  will  be  required  to 
inspect  as  early  as  possible  the  state  and  condition  of 
the  standing  and  running  rigging,  and  to  report  the 
result  of  his  examination  to  the  officer  of  the  morn- 


252 

ing  watch.  He  should  be  particularly  careful  to  see 
that  the  Ratlines  of  the  ris^ging  are  properly  secure, 
that  the  Topsail  sheet  service  is  not  chafed,  and  that 
all  the  quarter  and  Paunch  Matts  are  properly 
placed. 

Evening.  The  Boatswain  should  inspect  at  even- 
ing quarters  all  the  Rigging  Stoppers,  and  necessary 
gear  required  upon  the  occasion  of  clearing  for  ac- 
tion, so,  that  in  the  event  of  being  surprised  by  an 
enemy  at  night,  such  gear  may  be  placed  at  hand  for 
immediate  use — he  should  also  see  that  the  Tog- 
gles, fitted  to  the  lower  and  topsail  Braces,  be  secure- 
ly seized  to  their  respective  parts. 


5.  Inspection  of    Stoioed  Anchors.     {Hints.) 

In  boisterous  weather  and  particularly  if  the  ship 
be  labouring  or  lurching  heavily,  the  Boatswain 
should  inspect  the  several  Anchors,  and  see  that  they 
be  securely  stowed.  In  small  vessels  whose  Anchors 
in  a  heavy  sea  are  constantly  buried  under  water  it 
is  necessary  to  take  the  precaution  of  passing  Pre- 
venter Stocks  and  Shank  lashings.  The  quarter  boats 
should  be  also  inspected,  and  the  Boatswain  should 
report  to  the  officer  of  the  watch  the  result  of  such 
inspection. 


253 

6.  Setting  vp   the  rigging  at  Sea.     {Hints.) 

Whenever  it  is  required  to  set  up  the  lower  shrouds 
at  sea,  the  Topmast  Shrouds  should  be  all  let  gOj 
this  practice  is  recommended  upon  the  presumption 
that  the  Lower  rigging  will  not  be  cast  loose,  or  set 
up  on  the  occasion  of  a  swell,  or  that  the  Ship  be 
rolling  or  pitching.  It  has  been  well  observed  that 
by  letting  go  two  Topmast  Shrouds  at  a  time,  an  un- 
even strain  has  been  brought  upon  the  futtock,  which 
prevents  the  Shrouds  of  the  lower  rigging  being 
equally  drawn  down.  Upon  all  occasions  of  setting 
up  the  Lower  rigging  at  sea  it  is  always  advisable  to 
have  ready  prepared  as  many  Luffs  as  possible,  so 
that  two  shrouds  may  be  set  up  at  a  time,  and  that 
there  may  be  no  delay  in  shifting  the  Tackles  from 
Shroud  to  Shroud.  When  the  lower  rigging  is  up, 
the  futtock  plates  should  be  beaten  down  to  the  top, 
and  the  Shrouds  set  tautly  up  by  means  of  tackles 
ready  hooked  to  their  respective  Laniards.  The 
method  of  employing  the  Spanish  Windlass  for  the 
purpose  of  setting  up  these  Shrouds  is  not  to  be  re- 
commended. It  occupies  too  much  time  and  often 
creates  unnecessary  delay  before  the  topmast  rigging 
can  be  set  up.  In  staying  the  Topmasts  the  Boat- 
swain is  not  recommended  to  bouse  too  far  forward 
the  heads  of  the  mast,  and  he  should  recollect  that 
the  Angle  formed  by  the  main  Topmast  stay  with 

22 


254  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

the  Fore  Top,  is  considerably  greater  than  that  of 
the  Foretop  Mast  with  the  Bowsprit,  and  consequent- 
ly that  the  lever  of  the  former  is  more  powerful  than 
that  of  the  latter. 


7.  Inspection  of  Boats'.    {Hints.) 

Every  evening  after  sunset  the  Boatswain  will  be 
required  to  inspect  the  Boats  on  the  Booms,  to  see 
that  they  be  perfectly  clear,  and  that  their  slings  be 
severally  hooked  in  readiness  for  hoisting  out.  In 
Tropical  climates  it  is  strongly  recommended  to  un- 
cover the  boats  after  the  sun  has  set,  in  order  that 
they  may  benefit  by  the  dew  and  air.  Each  cover 
should  be  made  up  and  placed  in  the  Bow  of  the 
Boat. 


8.  Slacking  the  Jib  Stay  in  had  weather.  {Hints.) 

The  Jib  stay  is  always  set  up  as  taut  as  a  harpstring, 
consequently,  when  it  comes  on  to  blow,  both  the 
spray  of  the  sea,  and  the  rain,  tend  to  tauten  it  more,  in. 
pitching  too  it  must  assist  to  spring  the  Boom,  work 
the  Bowsprit,  and  cause  unnecessary  strain  upon  the 
rope  itself.    Whenever  it  blows  so  fresh  that  the  Jib 


«.     ♦T  :.  •  '  t  , 


255 

is  not  likely  to  be  set,  the  Jib  stay  should  be  slacked. 
If  it  be  required  subsequently  to  setting  the  sail,  no- 
thing can  be  easier  than  to  set  the  stay  up,  while  the 
Jib  is  loosing, — bear  this  in  mind. 


9.  Clearing  for  Action.     {Hints.) 

The  Boatswain  should  see  that  the  rigging  stop- 
pers should  be  placed  on  the  Poop,  Quarter  deck 
and  Forecastle  abreast  of  their  respective  shrouds, 
that  the  Topsail  sheets  be  severally  stoppered,  the 
Top  sail  yards  securely  slung,  and  that  preventer 
Braces  be  attached  to  the  Lower  and  Topsail  yards.' 
Should  time  permit  of  the  precaution,  the  fore  and 
main  runners,  fore  and  main  Tackles,  and  a  proper 
proportion  of  stout  Stuffs  should  be  lighted  on  the 
Booms  ready  at  hand,  and  whips  ready  rove  to  whip 
the  runners  to  their  respective  pendants ;  the  mast 
head  pendants  should  be  previously  lashed  abaft  the 
mast  head.  For  the  purpose  of,  and  on  this  occas- 
ion, when  every  second  of  time  that  can  be  saved  is 
of  the  first  moment,  it  is  strongly  recommended  to  fit 
the  runners  with  stout  salvages  and  toggles.  Com- 
pared to  lashing,  the  method  of  toggling  the  runnner 
becomes  a  mere  momentary  operation.  Some  ships 
previously  to  going  into  action,  have  lashed  their  run- 
ners, taken  them  forward  and  set  them  up,  and  have 


256  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

also  boused  up  their  fore  and  main  Tackles,  on  each 
side,  the  propriety  of  this  practice  becomes  a  matter 
of  question,  inasmuch  as  the  runners  and  Tackles 
are  more  likely  to  be  shot  away  when  aloft,  than 
when  lying  low,  bighted  along  upon  the  Booms. 

The  Boom  cover  should  also  be  taken  off,  and  all 
the  minor  Lashings  of  the  Spare  Spars  cast  off,  for 
it  may  be  necessary,  even  in  the  middle  of  an  action, 
to  have  recourse  to  a  spare  Spar  to  lash  up  and 
down  the  Lower  mast.  A  coil  of  stretched  rope  and 
a  ball  of  Spun  Yarn,  should  be  sent  aloft  and  placed 
in  each  Top. 

Note.  It  is  said  that  Paul  Jones,  perceiving  the 
main  mast  of  his  ship  totter,  in  a  severely  contested 
action,  whipt  the  spare  Jib  Boom  up  and  down, 
the  Mast,  converting  it  into  a  fish,  and  securing  the 
two  spars  together  by  means  of  long  nippers  passed 
on  the  bight^  and  hove  taut  by  Handspikes,  Spanish 
Windlass  fashion. 


10.  Caution  in  getting  in  the  Bowsprit.  {Hints,) 

In  getting  in  the  Bowsprit,  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  Main  purchase  be  overhauled  down  abaft 
the  Bumpkins,  for  should  the  purchase  fall  be  pass- 
ed before  and  under  the  Bumpkin  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  lift   the  Bowsprit  higher.       The  Spar 


257 

must  necessarily  be  lowered  again  into  the  water,  the 
purchase  untoggled  and  shifted  abaft  the  Bumpkin, 
and  in  fact  all  the  work  must  be  done  over  again, 
(bear  this  in  mind.) 


11.   Stopping  out   Top    Gallant    Yard  ropes, 
{Hints.) 

The  practice  of  permitting  the  Topmen  to  stop  the 
Top  Gallant  Yard  ropes  out  at  their  own  conveni- 
ence, and  consequently  at  unstated  periods,  is  at  vari- 
ance with  that  order  and  regularity  which  should 
ever  characterize  the  duties  and  discipline  of  a  ves- 
sel of  war. 

In  well  regulated  ships,  the  officer  of  the  watch 
following  the  movements  of  the  Senior  Officers,  di- 
rects the  Boatswain  or  his  mates  to  pipe  "  Out  yard 
ropes,"  if  tripping  lines  are  tolerated  the  yard  rope 
and  tripping  line  men  should  lie  out  together,  by 
pursuing  this  system,  the  yards  will  be  kept  square, 
and  will  not  (as  is  of  constant  occurrence)  be  seen  for 
an  hour  and  a  half  before  sunset  topping  in  different 
directions.  The  same  rufe  should  be  observed  when 
placing  on  whips  for  Hammock  Girtlines,  or  Clothes 
lines. 


22* 


268  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

12.  Preventer  Braces. 

It  is  desirable  to  establish  a  general  rule  that  when 
the  Topsails  are  treble  reefed,  the  Preventer  Braces 
are  to  be  placed  on  the  Yards,  and  that  the  relieving 
tackles  in  the  Gunroom  be  placed  at  hand  ready  for 
use. 


13.  Reeving  Running  Rigging. 

In  reeving  running  rigging  the  Boatswain  is  not 
recommended  to  cut  and  reeve,  but  on  the  contrary 
to  reeve  and  cut.  However  correct  the  "  Rigging 
List"  may  appear  there  will  be  always  found  a  diflfer- 
ence  of  a  few  fathoms  in  rope,  and  so  it  happens  that 
the  difference  invariably  errs  on  the  wrong  side,  the 
allowance  being  said  to  be  shorter  than  the  measure- 
ment,— per  Rope. 

Note.  It  were  much  to  be  desired  that  the  run- 
ning rigging,  previously  to  reeving,  should  be  stretch- 
ed at  the  Capstan.  The  old  practice  of  taking  the 
end  through  the  Coil,  will  in  some  measure  relieve 
the  rope  of  many  of  its  kinks,  but  taking  the  mere 
turns  out  of  a  rope  is  not  sufficient  to  facilitate  its  run 
through  the  block.  Such  ropes  as  Topsail  Sheets, 
Top  Gallant  Sheets,  after  Braces,  and  Jib  and  Stay- 
sail Haliards  should  be  all  stretched  before  they  are 


rov^  in  their  respective  Blocks.  Moreover,  if  there 
be  any  time  more  than  another,  that  a  vessel  will  re- 
quire her  ropes  to  run  freely,  it  is  upon  t&e  occasion 
of  her  first  leaving  port,  with  a  green  and  undisci- 
plined crew. 


14.   Topsail  Tyes. 

Topsail  Tyes  are  now  rove  in  some  ships  suffici- 
ently long  to  send  the  Yards  down  with,  and  when 
not  wanted  for  that  purpose,  the  surplus  ends  per- 
taining to  the  standing  parts  secured  to  the  Mast 
head.  In  some  ships  a  strop  and  thimble  are  fitted 
under  the  rigging,  or  a  score  cut  in  the  heel  of  the  Top- 
gallant mast,  for  the  purpose  of  reeving  through  the 
standing  parts  of  the  Tye,  which  is  secured  Breech- 
ing fashion  by  two  strong  seizings,  and  then  stopped 
down  the  Topmast  rigging.  In  shifting  yards  this 
method  will  be  found  to  save  much  time  and  trouble. 
The  surplus  end  will  also  answer  to  shng  the  Top- 
sail yard  with,  when  going  into  action. 


15.  Blacking  the  Rigging.     {Hints.) 

In  blacking  the  rigging  the  first  precaution  that 
should  be  taken  by  the  Boatswain  is  to  cover  with 


260  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

old  Canvass  or  Hammocks  the  lower  Mast  Heads, 
and  particularly  the  Caps.  The  Blacking  should  be 
put  on  hot. 

Thin  Tar  with  a  certain  portion  of  Lamblack,  hot 
Salt  water,  whiskey  and  a  little  Litharge  mixed  toge- 
ther, make  an  admirable  mixture  for  blacking  the 
rigging.  It  is  not  recommended  to  blacken  the  Roy- 
al and  Top  Gallant  rigging  aloft — this  rigging  may 
be  previously  blackened  and  triced  up  to  dry. 

tl^  See  composition  for  Blacking. 


10.   Top  Gallant  Mast  Hopes. 

For  expedition,  the  Mast  rope  rove  upon  the  bight, 
with  lizards  taken  through  the  Royal  sheave  must 
be  preferred  to  the  old  manner  of  Adding  Masts  by 
the  double  operation  of  two  Mast  ropes — namely,  the 
long  and  the  short.  If  delay  is  desired ;  or  in  other 
words  people  prefer  going  the  longest  way  to  work, 
the  short  mast  rope  must  be  put  in  requisition.  The 
mast  rope,  however,  rove  upon  the  bight  with  lizards, 
is  better  calculated  for  harbour  practice  than  for  sea 
service.  The  Mast  rope  which  is  here  recommended 
as  applicable  to  every  purpose  may  be  fitted  as  fol- 
lows. The  Rope  is  rove  as  usual,  stopped  to  the  Top 
Gallant  mast  head  and  Royal  sheave  hole,  leaving  a 


YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  261 

long  end  over  the  upper  stop  to  hitch  to  the  Bolt  in  the 
Cap  before  cutting  the  stops.  To  prevent  the  ropes 
from  slipping,  rack  both  parts  together  above  the 
sheave  hole  in  the  heel  of  the  mast. 


17.  Fore  and  Main  Buntlines. 

The  Buntlines  of  the  Courses  are  frequently  found 
to  jamb  aloft,  and  when  rove  on  the  bight  and  led 
forward  constantly  to  become  Cable  laid.  Buntlines 
will  be  found  to  lead  fairer  and  to  haul  the  sails 
higher  up  by  fitting  them  after  the  following  method. 
In  the  fore  part  of  the  Top  between  the  Trusseltrees 
cut  two  holes,  into  these  holes  insert  leaden  pipes 
backstay  fall  fashion.  Hook  to  the  foremost  Bolt  on 
each  side  of  the  Lower  Cap  a  block  through  which 
each  Buntline  leg  is  to  be  rove,  take  each  through 
the  holes  cut  in  the  Top,  and  pass  them  down  before 
all,  and  toggle  them  to  the  foot  of  the  sail,  the  hauling 
part  to  be  led  aft  through  the  Lubber's  hole,  and  a 
block  turned  in  at  a  proper  distance  to  allow  the  after 
leg  to  act  the  part  of  a  pendant.  Through  this  block 
a  whip  purchase  is  rove,  by  this  method  the  Bunt- 
lines will  be  always  kept  clear,  and  they  will  be  found 
upon  letting  go  the  whips,  to  overhaul  themselves. 
In  Port,  when  the  ship  is  moored,  the  Buntline  blocks 
with  the  ropes  rove  may  be  unhooked  from  the  Bolts 


^62  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

in  the  Cap  and  placed  in  the  Top  immediately  over 
the  holes,  through  which  the  foremost  legs  are  rove  in. 


18.  Futtock  Shrouds. 

In  all  vessels  of  war  the  Futtock  Shrouds  are  too 
long.  Ships  whose  lower  yards  are  slung  high  and 
brace  sharply  up  have  their  futtock  shrouds  conside- 
rably shorter  than  the  established  length. 


19.  Tops  and  half  Tops. 

Many  Seamen  affect  to  disapprove  of  half  Tops, 
asserting  that  two  halves  can  never  be  so  well  secur- 
ed as  one  whole,  this  is  mere  prejudice,  for  practical 
purposes  a  half  top  must  be  always  preferred. 


20.  Striking  Topmasts. 

The  absence  of  forethought,  or  a  little  practical 
precaution  on  the  part  of  the  Boatswain  and  Petty 
Officers,  is  sometimes  the  cause  of  this  operation  be- 
ing one  of  no  little  labour,  when  the  hands  are  turned 
up  to  strike  Topmasts,  the  Laniards  of  the  after 


263 

Backstays  and  Topmast  rigg-ing  should  be  severally- 
slacked,  whilst  the  Jib  Stay,  fore  topmast  staysail 
Haliards,  Topsail  haliards.  Topsail  Lifts,  Reef  Tac- 
kles and  Top  Gallant  sheets  ought  to  be  well  over- 
hauled, steady  hands  should  also  be  placed  to  attend 
the  spring  and  standing  stays. 

When  blowing  hard  head  to  wind,  Topmasts  con- 
stantly bend  in  the  cap,  from  the  circumstance  of 
letting  go  and  overhauling  too  much  of  the  stays. 

Should  there  be  any  unusual  strain  on  the  Top 
tackle  pendants,  it  were  well  to  "  stand  fast"  the  falls 
for  a  few  seconds,  in  order  that  the  people  aloft  may 
examine  the  vicinity  of  the  Trussletrees,  for  the  most 
minute  rope  jambed  between  the  Trussletrees  and 
the  Mast,  may  produce  sufficient  strain  to  carry  away 
the  Top  Tackle  falls  if  not  the  pendants.  This  pre- 
caution is  more  particularly  directed  during  periods 
of  striking  Topmasts  in  the  dark.  When  the  Masts 
are  struck  they  should  be  kept  on  the  right  slew,  and 
their  heels  securely  lashed,  in  the  event  of  the  Ship 
parting,  or  it  becomes  necessary  to  set  close  reefed 
Topsails  with  the  Mast  down.  The  practice  of 
Sheep  shanking  Backstays  is  not  recommended,  the 
Backstays  may  be  set  up  through  the  medium  of 
good  Lufl  Tackles,  and  by  such  means  the  mast  may 
be  rendered  sufficiently  secure  to  support  the  strain 
of  a  close  reefed  Topsail. 


264  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

21.  Stoaying  up  Topmast. 

In  performing  this  heavy  operation  every  care 
should  be  taken  to  overhaul  well,  and  to  see  that 
such  of  the  standing  and  running  rigging  are  per- 
fectly' clear  which  are  calculated  to  impede  the  as- 
cent of  the  masts.  The  Topsail  Lifts,  Topsail  Tyes, 
Reef  Tackles,  Jib  and  Staysail  Halyards  should  be 
well  overhauled  below  and  aloft,  and  the  Laniards  of 
the  Topmast  rigging  and  Backstays  be  got  ready  for 
setting  up,  the  moment  the  mast  is  fidded  and  stayed. 
The  Forecastle  men  forward  should  have  Luffs  lead 
along  the  Bowsprit,  and  Tackles  up  and  down  the 
Foremast,  ready  for  staying  the  Fore  and  Main  Top- 
masts. No  Topmasts  should  be  fidded  by  a  single 
Top  tackle  pendant.  It  is  true  that  small  vessels  are 
not  allowed  a  second  Pendant,  but  such  ships  should 
reeve  a  hawser  through  the  Dead  sheave  for  the  pur- 
pose of  acting  the  part  of  a  preventer  in  the  event  of 
the  Top  Tackle  fall  patting.  The  same  precaution 
should  be  taken  with  respect  to  the  position  of  the 
Cross  Trees  over  head  as  has  been  already  mention- 
ed under  the  head  of  rigging  Topmasts. 

Note.  Such  Ships  should  be  prepared  with  stop- 
pers, with  two  tails  and  a  Toggle,  so  as  to  clap  on 
the  Top  Tackle  Pendants  about  a  foot  abaft  and  un- 
der the  Top  Block  hooked  to  the  Cap.  Topmasts 
ascend  comparatively  easy  until  the  Fid  hole  becomes 


265 

within  six  inches  of  the  Trusseltrees,  then  a  heavy- 
strain  is  brought  upon  the  Pendants  and  particularly 
upon  the  falls. 


22.  Unmooring. 

It  frequently  occurs  in  unmooring  vessels  of  War 
that  the  veering  cable  is  not  sufficiently  veered.  In 
weighing  the  first  Anchor  a  considerable  strain  has 
been  felt  at  the  Capstan  in  consequence  of  the  ship 
not  being  permitted  to  bring  the  Cable  up  and  down. 
It  is  recommended  to  veer  3  or  4  fathoms  after  the 
Cable  is  said  to  be  up  and  down,  this  can  do  no 
harm,  it  will  put  the  whole  strain  of  the  Ship  on  the 
Anchor,  that  is,  weighing,  and  thereby  facilitate  trip- 
ping it. 

23.  Reef  Lines  to  the  Topsails. 

Few  ships  in  .the  service  are  fitted  witli  these  Lines. 
In  some  ships  they  are  attached.  In  reefing  Top- 
sails when  blowing  fresh  and  particularly  when 
steering  a  course,  or  going  large.  Reef  lines  assist  ma- 
terially to  spill  the  sail,  and  enable  the  men  on  the 
yards  to  get  hold  of  the  points,  which  are  difficult  to 
reach  when  the  Canvass  is  bellying  to  the   breeze. 

Reef  lines  are  thus  fitted.     Take^  a  piece  of  small 

rope,  splice  one  end  into  an  eyelet  hole  into  the  head 

23 


266  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

of  the  sail,  ^eize  it  around  the  neck  of  one  of  the  first 
reef  Points,  on  the  foreside  of  the  sail  in  a  straight 
line  with  the  eyelet  hole,  leaving  enough  slack  to  pre- 
vent the  sail  girting,  then  seize  it  under  to  the  sec- 
ond, then  the  third  reef,  splice  an  eye  in  the  end,  and 
seize  it  to  the  neck  of  a  close  reef  point.  In  large 
ships  there  should  be  thrse  reef  lines,  on  each  yard 
arm,  in  small  vessels  Iwo  will  be  sufficient. 


24.  Reefing  Courses. 

To  execute  this  service  with  security  as  well  as 
celerity,  the  reef  earings  should*be  formed  of  rope 
sufficiently  strong  to  bear  being  boused  out  by  the 
Boom  Jiggers,  by  this  method  the  inner  turns  of 
small  rope  may  be  passed  with  facility. 

The  outer  Earing  should  be  led  through  a  block 
or  cheek  fitted  for  the  purpose,  this  earing  it  must  be 
remembered,  is  not  to  be  considered  as  a  substitute 
for  the  reef  pendant,  it  should  also  be  hooked  and 
hauled  out  by  a  separate  Tackle.  It  is  the  general 
cutom  now,  to  fit  all  reef  earings  on  the  bight,  and 
pass  on  both  ends. 


25.   Top  Gallant  Masts  struck. 
When  Top  Gallant  masts  are  struck,  care  ^should 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  267 

be  taken  that  a  small  mat  be  placed  between  the 
Topmast  and  the  heel  of  the  Top  Gallant  masts, 
proper  heel  lashings  should  also  be  fitted  for  the  pur- 
pose of  securing  the  latter. 


26.  Keeping  a  clear  Anchor. 

That  part  of  seamanship  which  relates  to  the  me- 
thod of  tending  a  ship  to  the  tide,  or  in  other  words, 
of  keeping  the  Cable  clear  of  the  Anchor  may  not  be 
inaptly  termed  the  blind  branch,  of  the  mariner's  art, 
the  Buoy  floating  on  the  surface  being  the  only  pos- 
sible guide  that  the  seaman  possesses,  to  point  to  the 
position  of  the  Anchor  hidden  under  water. 

From  being  little  understood,  and  by  young  ofii- 
eers  it  is  seldom  put  in  practice,  the  art  of  keeping  a 
clear  anchor,  is  by  many  considered  a  difficult  task, 
but,  were  Lieutenants  to  give  more  attention  to  the 
matter,  and  to  place  less  dependence  on  the  Master  or 
Pilot,  they  would  soon  attain  every  necessary  know- 
ledge to  meet  the  most  difficult  tide  case. 


27.  Anchor  turning  in  the  Ground. 

In  order   to  ensure  the   certainty  of  the  Anchor 
turning  in  the  ground  with  the  tending  or  swinging 


268 


OR 


of  the  ship,  it  is  recommended  (whenever  it  is  possi- 
ble) to  resort  to  this  practice  :  To  shoot  the  ship  on 
the  same  side  of  her  Anchor  at  each  change  of  tide, 
for  if  the  Anchor  should  not  turn  in  the  ground,  the 
Cable  will  get  foul,  either  about  the  stock  or  the  up- 
per fluke,  and  trip  it  out  of  the  ground. — Remember 
this. 


28.   To  tend  to  a  weather  Tide. 

Let  it  be  supposed  that  a  ship  is  riding  at  single 
anchor  upon  a  Lee  tide,  with  the  wind  in  same  di- 
rection of  the  tide,  and  that  it  be  required  upon  the 
tide  setting  to  windward  to  tend  the  Ship  clear  of 
the  Anchor.  To  effect  this,  as  soon  as  the  ship  be- 
gins to  feel  the  turn  of  the  weather  tide,  and  that 
the  vessel  brings  the  wind  broad  on  the  weather  bow, 
the  head  sails  should  be  hoisted  and  the  Lee  sheets 
hauled  aft,  in  order  to  shoot  the  sliipfrom  her  Anchor 
on  a  taut  Cable,  the  Helm  must  be  put  A  Lee,  and 
kept  in  that  position  until  the  tide  sets  the  ship  over 
to  windward  of  her  Cable,  and  the  Buoy  appearing 
on  the  same  side  with  the  Helm.  If  from  light 
winds  the  Buoy  bears  nearly:  abeam,  her  head  sails 
may  be  hauled  down,  but  if  the  breeze  be  strong  and 
it  causes  the  ship  to  shoot  in  a  direction  nearly  end 
on  with  that  of  the  Cable,  bringing  the  Buoy  on  her 
quarter,  it  will  be  necessary  to   keep  the  Fore   top* 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT.  269 

mast  Staysail  set  in  order  to  check  the  vessel  should 
she  be  disposed  to  break  her  shear  against  the  action 
of  her  helm,  or  be  inclined  to  drop  to  windward,  and 
"go  over"  her  anchor  in  a  broadside  or  lateral  di- 
rection. 


29.  A  Man  Overboard. 

If  the  Ship  be  going  free,  and  particularly  if  fast 
through  the  water,  it  is  recommended  to  bring  too 
with  the  head-yards  aback,  for  it  is  obvious  that  if 
the  Main  yard  be  left  square,  the  Ship  will  be  longer 
coming  too,  will  shoot  farther,  increase  the  distance 
from  the  man,  and  add  materially  to  the  delay  of  suc- 
cour. It  will  however  require  judgment,  especially 
if  blowing  fresh,  to  be  careful  and  right  the  Helm  in 
time,  or  the  Ship  will  fly  too,  too  much,  gain  stern- 
way,  and  risk  the  boat  in  lowering  down. 

The  best  authority  recommends,  that  if  possible,  the 
Ship  should  not  only  be  hove  aback  when  a  man 
falls  overboard,  but  she  ought  to  be  brought  round  on 
the  other  tack,  of  course  sail  ought  to  be  shortened 
in  Stays,  and  the  Main  yard  kept  square.  This  plan 
implies  the  ship  being  on  a  wind,  or  from  the  posi- 
tion of  having  the  wind  not  above  two  points  abaft 
the  Beam.  The  great  merit  of  such  a  method  of  pro- 
ceeding is  that  if  the   evolution  succeeds,  the  Ship 

23* 


270  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

when  round  will  drift  down  towards  the  man,  and 
although  there  may  be  some  small  risk  in  lowering 
the  Boat  in  stays  from  the  ship,  having  at  one  period 
Sternway,  there  will  in  fact  be  little  time  lost,  if  the 
boat  be  not  lowered  until  the  Ship  be  well  round, 
and  the  sternway  at  an  end.  There  is  more  mischief 
done  generally  by  lowering  the  boat  too  soon  than 
by  waiting  until  the  fittest  moment  arrives  for  doing 
it  coolly.  And  it  cannot  be  too  often  repeated,  that 
almost  the  whole  depends  upon  the  self-possession  of 
the  Ofiicer  of  the  Deck. 


30.  Hailing  Aloft. 

Hailing  Aloft  in  well  regulated  Ships  is  much  re- 
pressed by  the  Boatswain,  for  bluster  is  a  general  in- 
dication of  but  little  work  or  the  truth  of  the  adage, 
'•  All  noise  and  no  work." 


31.  Jih  Stay  and  Haliards. 

For  various  reasons  it  is  advisable  to  dispense  with 
the  Cheek  Blocks  which  are  usually  fitted  to  the  fore 
Top  Mast  head  for  the  purpose  of  reeving  the  above 
two  ropes,  together  with  the  fore  Topmast  staysail 
Haliards.     In  the  first  place,  if  the  foretopmast  be 


271 

sprung  or  carried  away  in  chase^  and  that  it  be  re- 
quired to  shift  the  mast  with  all  possible  speed,  con- 
siderable time  is  taken  up  in  removing  and  replacing 
cheek  blocks  at  the  Mast  head.  But  independently 
of  these  reasons,  the  Stay  and  Haliards  should  be 
rove  under  the  Mast  head,  if  only  to  keep  them  clear 
of  the  foot  of  the  Topgallant  Sail. 

NoTt.'.  In  some  ships,  the  Jib  and  Fore  Topmast 
Staysail  Haliards  are  rove  through  ginns  fitted  for 
the  purpose.  Ginns  are  however  not  supplied  in  all 
ships,  but  you  can  always  fit  fiddle  blocks  under  the 
eyes  of  your  rigging,  your  Jib  and  Staysail  Haliards 
reeve  in  the  upper  sheave,  and  the  Topsail  Buntlines 
in  the  lower  ones. 


32.  Proportions  for  Cables. 

The  Sheet  and  Bower  Cable  1  inch  in  circumfer- 
ence for  every  2  feet  of  beam.  The  Stream  Cable 
and  Messenger  f  of  the  Sheet  or  Bower,  Chain  Ca- 
bles are  frequently  used  for  Bowers,  an  allowance  is 
made  of  ^  of  an  inch  for  the  diameter  of  the  wire  of 
the  Links,  for  every  inch  of  circumference  of  the 
Hemp  Cables,  the  same  rule  applies  in  all  cases  where 
Iron  rigging  is  substituted  for  Hemp. 

Note.  Cable  yarns  are  spun  f  longer  than  the 
Cable  for  which  they  are  intended.     The  yarns  for 


272  KEDQE   ANCHOR,    OR 

120  fathoms  of  Cable  must  be  200  fat'noms  long,  for 
a  shroud  laid  rope  the  yarns  are  i  longer,  i.  e.  90  for 
60  fathoms. 


33.  Proportions  for  Anchors. 

For  the  Sheet  and  Bower  Anchors,  take  f  the 
number  of  feet  which  the  ship  draws  with  all  her 
stores,  &c.,  on  board,  and  add  it  to  the  breadth  of 
beam,  and  allow  one  cwt.  for  every  foot. 

The  stream  Anchor  f  of  the  Sheet  or  Bower. 

For  ships  smaller  than  Frigates  an  allowance  of 
600  cwt.  every  100  Tons  burden  should  be  made 
ibr  Sheet  and  Bower  Anchors. 

In  Stocking  an  Anchor,  add  together  the  length  of 
the  Shank  and  half  the  length  of  the  ring,  for  the 
length  of  the  stock. 

The  stock  is  as  many  inches  in  thickness  in  the 
middle  as  the  shank  is  long  in  feet,  and  is  tapered  to 
half  that  size  at  the  end. 

In  puddening  an  Anchor  ring,  cut  the  length  3 
times  the  diameter  of  the  Ring. 


i 


34.    What  length  is  necessary  to  form  a  Clinch. 
In  bending  Cables,  the  length  of  rope  necessary 


273 

to  form  a  Clinch  is  equal  to^the  length  of  the  Shank 
of  the  Anchor. 


35.   To  sj^lice  an  old  Cable  to  a  new  one. 

Take  the  old  one  to  a  rope  walk,  unlay  the  strands, 
and  splice  them  to  the  strands  of  the  new  one  with 
long  splices,  after  which  lay  up  the  latter.  It  can  be 
done  in  another  way,  but  it  requires  a  good  and  neat 
marlinespike  sailor  to  do  it. 


36.    To  send  2qj  Top  Gallant  Yards. 

Call  all  hands  up  Top  Gallant  Yards,  reeve  the 
yard  rope  through  the  Jack  block,  which  send  aloft 
and  hook  to  the  Top  Gallant  Tye.  Man  the  Top 
Gallant  Haliards  and  trice  up  the  Jack  Block,  Man 
the  yard  rope,  sway  out  of  the  chains,  when  the  yards 
are  steady  aloft,  men  in  the  Tops  and  on  the  Topsail 
yards,  bear  the  Top  Gallant  yards  clear,  the  Lower 
Lift  is  then  overhauled  down,  and  when  the  upper 
yard  arm  is  above  the  Topmast  Crosstrees,  "  Avast 
Swaying,"  while  the  men  in  the  Crosstrees  slip  off 
the  Grummets,  and  put  on  the  upper  Lifts  and  Braces, 
while  hands  in  the  Topmast  rigging,  rig  the  lower 
yard  arm,  man  the  Lower  lifts  and  braces,  sway 


274  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 

higher  and  when  the  slings  come  above  the  Top- 
mast Cap,  take  a  turn  with  the  parrel  lashing,  at- 
tend the  yards  and  sway  across,  slacking  the  upper 
lifts,  and  bousing  upon  the  lower  one,  parrel  the  yard 
and  square  it  by  the  lAfts  and  Braces,  let  go  the 
Top  Gallant  Haliards,  trice  down  the  Jack  Block, 
hook  the  Tye,  send  the  yard^ope  in  the  Top,  bend 
the  sheets  and  Clewlines,  bowlines  and  buntlines, 
send  aloft  Royal  Studding  Sail  booms  and  reeve  the 
gear. 

Note.  Royal  yards  are  sent  aloft  in  the  same 
manner,  except  that  they  have  no  Jack  Blocks,  the 
yard  rope  reeves  through  the  sheave  in  the  Royal 
Mast  Head.  (Note.  Jack  blocks  are  not  used  at  all 
now-a-days  in  the  heaviest  of  ships  for  Top  Gallant 
yards.) 


37.   To  keep  the  Hawser  clear  loheii  moored. 

When,  it  is  nearly  slack  water,  cant  her  with  the 
Helm  the  right  way,  and  if  necessary,  make  use  of 
Jib  Spanker  and  yards. 


38.   To  tend  to  Windioard  Single  Anchor. 
When  the  tide  slacks,  sheer  her  with  the  Helm, 


275 

run  up  the  Jib  and  Foretopmast  Staysail,  with  weath- 
er sheets  aft,  when  canted  the  right  way  the  lee 
sheets  may  be  hauled  aft  and  the  yards  filled,  thus 
setting  her  abreast  to  a  taut  Cable.  When  the  Buoy 
is  on  the  Lee  quarter,  brace  the  head  yards  to  the 
wind,  and  fill  the  after  ones,  when  the  tide  swings 
her  head  around,  so  as  to  shake  the  sails,  furl  and 
stow  them. 


39.   To  tend  to  Leeioard. 

As  the  tide  slackens  sheer  her  to  the  same  side  of 
the  Buoy  on  which  she  came  to  windward,  and  fill 
the  yards,  which  will  set  her  end  on,  over  the  Cable, 
she  will  now  by  the  effect  of  the  wind,  bring  her  stem 
over  the  Cable,  and  bring  the  Buoy  on  her.  weather 
quarter,  put  the  Helm  "  a  weather,"  and  she  will 
shoot  ahead,  tautening  the  Cable  by  shearing  her 
head  from  the  wind.  When  the  wind  gets  a  little 
aft  the  beam  hoist  the  Jib  to  prevent  the  Cable  from 
drawing  her  head  to  wind.  Let  her  lay  in  this 
position  until  she  falls  off.  When  the  head  sails 
shake,  haul  down  and  stow  them. 


40.   To  back  the  ship. 
As  the  tide  slacks,  shear  her  to  windward,  sheet 


d^ 


276  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

home  and  set  the  mizen  Topsail,  thus  she  will 
back  round  to  leeward,  as  soon  as  the  tide  sets  up, 
clew  up  and  furl  the  mizen  Topsail. 


41.   To  break  the  Shear, 

When  tending  to  the  tide,  and  the  ship  comes 
over  her  Anchor,  she  may  break  her  shear  by  cant- 
ing her  stern  the  wrong  way,  when  this  is  the  case, 
put  the  helm  a-weather,  run  the  Jib  up,  fill  the  Head 
yards  and  the  after  yards,  kept  too.  Every  thing  is 
now  arranged  to  bring  her  round  again,  when  she 
must  be  managed  as  before. 


42.  Strip  Ship. 

Begin  aloft  and  go  down  regularly,  sending  down, 
that  first  which  went  aloft  by  a  reverse  operation. 
Commence  with  the  Top  Gallant  and  royal  rigging, 
and  rig  in  the  flying  Jib  Boom ;  next  send  down  Top- 
sail and  Lower  yards.  Topmast  Caps ;  unrig  the 
Topmasts,  get  in  the  Jib  boom  and  Spritsail  yards, 
get  off  Lower  Caps,  Tops  and  rigging,  unrig  the 
Bowsprit  and  unrig  all  GafFs,  Booms,  and  Davits. 


fv-  ^ 


J*JOATE  VJU, 


277 
43.  AJ^ote  on  Gammoning  the  Bowsprit, 

The  better  way  to  gammon  the  Bowsprit  in  a 
large  ship,  is  to  get  a  Caulker's  Stage  under  the  Bows, 
fore  and  aft  under  the  Bowsprit,  secure  one  end  snug 
to  the  stern,  then  get  a  stout  tackle  from  the  extreme 
end  of  the  Bowsprit,  overhaul  down  and  sling  the 
outer  end  of  the  stage.  Hook  on  your  Tackle  to  the 
slings,  lead  your  fall  down  on  the  stage,  send  the  men 
down  and  bouse  well  taut  so  as  to  get  the  weight  of 
the  stage  as  much  as  possible  on  the  Bowsprit.  Now 
your  stage  being  secured,  you  can  proceed  to  Gam- 
mon your  Bowsprit.  Get  two  stout  Luff  Tackles  on 
the  Stage  and  a  viol  block,  then  get  a  span  around 
the  inner  end  of  the  stage  to  hook  your  viol  block 
to,  having  your  viol  hooked,  clinch  your  gammoning 
round  your  Bowsprit,  with  a  running  clinch  or  a 
running  eye,  jam  your  turn  well  round  the  Bowsprit, 
then  reeve  down  through  the  gammoning  hole  up 
over  the'^Bowsprit,  then  pass  your  end  down  through 
the  Scuttle  on  to  the  stage,  reeve  it  through  the  Viol 
Blocks,  on  the  Stage,  clap  on  your.  Luffs  and  bouse 
away,  leading  your  fall  fore  and  aft  the  stage. 

Note.  Leading  your  fall  in  this  way, has  a  tenden- 
cy to  lift  up  the  inner  end  of  the  stage,  and  of  course 
your  pulling  down  and  the  weight  of  the  stage  on 
the  gammoning  must  certainly  bring  the  Bowsprit 

snug  down  in  its  bed  and  set  your  gammoning  up 
24 


J^JDATE  VJU. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  277 

43.  A  JNote  on  Gammoning  the  Bowsjnit, 

The  better  way  to  gammon  the  Bowsprit  in  a 
large  ship,  is  to  get  a  Caulker's  Stage  under  the  Bows, 
fore  and  aft  under  the  Bowsprit,  secure  one  end  snug 
to  the  stern,  then  get  a  stout  tackle  from  the  extreme 
end  of  the  Bowsprit,  overhaul  down  and  sling  the 
outer  end  of  the  stage.  Hook  on  your  Tackle  to  the 
slings,  lead  your  fall  down  on  the  stage,  send  the  men 
down  and  bouse  well  taut  so  as  to  get  the  weight  of 
the  stage  as  much  as  possible  on  the  Bowsprit.  Now 
your  stage  being  secured,  you  can  proceed  to  Gam- 
mon your  Bowsprit.  Get  two  stout  Luff  Tackles  on 
the  Stage  and  a  viol  block,  then  get  a  span  around 
the  inner  end  of  the  stage  to  hook  your  viol  block 
to,  having  your  viol  hooked,  clinch  your  gammoning 
round  your  Bowsprit,  with  a  running  clinch  or  a 
running  eye,  jam  your  turn  well  round  the  Bowsprit, 
then  reeve  down  through  the  gammoning  hole  up 
over  the'^Bowsprit,  then  pass  your  end  down  through 
the  Scuttle  on  to  the  stage,  reeve  it  through  the  Viol 
Blocks,  on  the  Stage,  clap  on  your.  Luffs  and  bouse 
away,  leading  your  fall  fore  and  aft  the  stage. 

Note.  Leading  your  fall  in  this  way,has  a  tenden- 
cy to  lift  up  the  inner  end  of  the  stage,  and  of  course 
your  pulling  down  and  the  weight  of  the  stage  on 
the  gammoning  must  certainly  bring  the  Bowsprit 

snug  down  in  its  bed  and  set  your  gammoning  up 
24 


/ 


r> 


278  .  KEDGE   ANCHOR,    OR 

very  taut,  having  got  your  first  turn  taut,  rack  it  Well, 
pass  another,  and  so  on  until  you  fill  up  your  Gam- 
moning Hole.  Gammon  your  last  turn  under  all 
parts  of  the  gammoning  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Bowsprit,  from  the  way  you  have  passed  your  gam- 
moning. 

When  you  are  setting  up  your  gammoning,  two 
men  ought  to  attend  with  commanders   to  beat  it 
solid  round  the  Bowsprit.    When  they  are  setting  up? 
some  people  use  a  great  deal  of  Tar  and  Shish  on  a 
gammoning,  but  the  less  the  better.     A  piece  of  good 
leather  under  your  gammoning  is  much  better  than 
tarred  parcelling,  and  when  your  gammoning  is  pass- 
ed, turn  your  leather  over  aft,  and  nail  it  down  to  the 
Bowsprit.     Your  Gammoning  ought  to  le  strapped 
with  large  strands  in  the  room  of  rope,  it  being  much 
better  and  softer  to  the  Gammoning,  and  all  well 
covered   to  protect  it  from  the  weather — if  you  use 
parcelling,  let  it  be  dry  and  new. 


YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT. 


279 


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280 


KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 


45 

. 

$.4 

16. 

A 

Cordage  Table  of  feet  and  fathoms. 

ft.  |ts 

ft. 

ft. 

tsT 

ft. 

ft.  ils 



ft. 

ft. 

fs. 

ft. 

ft. 

fs. 

ft. 

ft. 

fs. 

ft. 

"so 

5 

(I 

185 

30 

5 

34d56 

4 

495 

82 

3 

650 

108 

2 

805 

134 

~"l 

35 

5 

5 

190 

31 

4 

345:57 

3 

5O0 

83 

2 

655 

109 

1 

810 

135 

(( 

40 

6 

4 

195 

32 

3 

350;58 

2 

505 

84 

660 

110 

(( 

815 

135 

5 

45|  7 

S 

200 

33 

2 

355:59 

1 

510 

85 

u 

665 

110 

5 

820 

136 

4 

50 

S 

5 

•305 

34 

1 

360!  GO 

«• 

515 

85 

5 

670 

111 

4 

825 

137 

3 

55 

9 

1 

210 

35 

" 

365|60 

F- 

520 

86 

4 

675 

112 

3 

830 

138 

2 

60 

10 

(< 

215 

35 

5 

37061 

4 

525 

87 

a 

680 

113 

2 

835 

139 

1 

65 

10 

5 

220 

36 

4 

37562 

3 

530 

88 

2 

685 

114 

1 

840 

140 

(( 

70 

11 

4 

225 

37 

3 

380163 

2 

535 

89 

1 

690 

115 

u 

845 

140 

5 

75  12 

3 

230 

38 

o 

385164 

1|540 

90 

(i 

695 

115 

5 

850 

141 

4 

80!l3 

2 

235 

39 

1 

390|65 

"545 

90 

5 

700 

116 

4 

855 

142 

3 

85jl4 

1 

240 

40 

(1 

395  65 

5;550 

^\ 

4 

705 

117 

3 

860 

143 

2 

90  15 

" 

245 

40 

5 

400  66 

4 

555 

92 

3 

710 

118 

2 

865 

144 

1 

95  15 

5 

250 

41 

4 

40567 

3 

560 

93 

2 

715 

119 

1 

970 

146 

« 

10016 

4 

255 

42 

3 

410168 

2 

565 

94 

1 

720 

120 

(( 

975 

145 

5 

105  17 

£ 

260 

43 

2 

415|69 

1 

570 

95 

K 

725 

120 

5 

880 

146 

4 

110118 

r 

265 

44 

1 

420  70 

(. 

575 

95 

5 

730 

121 

4 

885 

147 

3 

115jl9 

1 

270 

45 

'' 

425  70 

5 

580 

96 

4 

735 

122 

3 

890 

148 

3 

12020 

*• 

275 

45 

5 

430  71 

4 

585 

97 

S 

740 

123 

2 

895 

149 

1 

125  20 

5 

280 

46 

4 

43572 

S590 

98 

2 

745 

124 

1 

900 

150 

(C 

13021 

4 

2S5 

47 

3 

440173 

2 

595 

99 

\ 

750 

125 

13522 

3 

290 

48 

2 

44574 

I 

600 

100 

«< 

755 

125 

5 

140  23 

S 

295 

49 

1 

450  75 

(1 

605 

100 

5 

760 

126 

4 

145124 

1 

300 

50 

i( 

455' 75 

5 

610 

101 

4 

765 

127 

3 

150  25 

<■ 

305 

50 

5 

460j76 

4 

615 

102 

3 

770 

128 

2 

155  25 

5 

310 

51 

4 

465i77 

3 

620 

103 

2 

775 

121 

1 

160  26 

4 

315 

52 

3 

470178 

2 

625 

104 

1 

780 

13( 

(I 

165  27 

170  28 

3 

320 

53 

2 

47579 

1 

630 

105 

t' 

785 

13C 

5 

2 

325  54 

1 

480'80 

« 

635 

105 

5 

790 

131 

4 

175  29 

1 

330  55 

" 

485  80 

5 

640 

lot; 

4 

795 

132 

3 

ISO  30 

" 

335  55 

5 

490,81 

41645! 

107 

3 

SOD 

133 

2 

47.    Weight  of  Cables  of  120  fathoms  from  3  to  24 
inches. 


In. 

lbs.  iu. 

lbs. 

in. 

lb.5. 

in. 

Jbs. 

in. 

lbs. 

in. 

lbs. 

in 

lbs. 

in. 
24 

lbs. 

3 

252  6 

1008 

9 

2208 

IS 

4032 

15 

6328 

18 

9072 

21 

12348 

16128 

3i 

336  6i 

1176 

9* 

2520 

12* 

436S 

15^  6720 

18* 

9520 

2U 

12936 

25 

17500 

4 

448J7 

1340 

10 

2800 

13 

4732 

16  17168 

19 

101  OS 

22 

13452 

4i 

560|7i 

156!- 

lOi 

3080 

I3i 

5056 

16n6l6 

m 

10640 

22i 

14168 

5 

7008 

179-2 

II 

338- 

14 

5480 

17  8092 

20 

11200 

23 

14840 

5| 

8408i 

2016 

lU 

369f 

Ui 

5880 

17^'8568 

20i 

11760 

23* 

15456 

i 


YOUNG   sailor's   ASSISTANT.  281 

48.  How  many  fathoms  make  112  poimds. 


m 

7J 

Vi 

m 

<u 

O 

o 

o 

o^ 

<a.£3 

«^ 

4)  .a 

N  y 

N  O 

N  O 

N  O 

iC'S 

fras. 

S2.S 

.s 

c 

feet 

in. 

fms. 

feet 

in. 

fms. 

ft. 

in. 

fs. 

ft. 

in. 

^__ 





_ 

_— 

___ 









■ 

1 

436 

< 

. 

4i 

24 

( 

, 

8 

7 

3 

6 

114 

3 

4 

1 

u 

313 

3 

4i 

21 

3 

8i 

7 

' 

S 

lU 

3 

3 

3 

u 

216 

3 

5 

19 

3 

8^ 

6 

4 

3 

12 

3 

2 

3 

If 

159 

3 

5i 

17 

4 

8? 

6 

2 

12i 

3 

2 

1 

2 

124 

3 

5i 

16 

1 

9 

6 

< 

124 

3 

2 

( 

2i 

96 

2 

' 

b\ 

14 

4 

9i 

5 

4 

12f 

3 

1 

8 

2i 

77 

3 

6 

13 

•  3 

94 

5 

2 

13 

2 

5 

3 

2f 

65 

4 

6-^ 

12 

2 

9f 

5 

< 

13i 

2 

4 

9 

3 

54 

( 

6i 

11 

3 

10 

4 

5 

134 

2 

4 

( 

3i 

45 

5 

2 

6f 

10 

4 

]0i 

4 

-",4 

13f 

2 

3 

6 

3i 

39 

3 

7 

9 

5 

104 

4 

2 

14 

2 

2 

4 

31 

34 

3 

9 

7i 

9 

1 

101 

*4 

1 

4 

30 

1 

6 

7i 

8 

4 

11 

4 

' 

3 

4i 

26 

5 

« 

7f 

8 

3  6 

Hi 

3  5 

7 

49.  Proportions  of  Spars  for  Merchant  Ships. 
Length  of  Spars. 

Main  Mast  equal  to  2^  times  the  Ship's  beam. 

Fore     "         "       "    |ths  of  the  Main  Mast. 

Mizen  "         "      "    fths  "    "     "         " 

Bowsprit  f  ds  of  the  Main  Mast,  ^d  of  which  ought 
to  be  in  board. 

Main  Topmast  f  ths  of  the  Main  Mast. 

Main  Top  Gallant  Mast  i  of  the  Main  Topmast, 
exclusive  of  the  pole  which  is  generally  ^  the  length 
of  the  Topgallant  Mast  or  a  little  longer. 

Fore  Topmast  f  of  the  Foremast. 
24* 


2S2  KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 

Fore  Topgallant  Mast  ^  the  length  of  the  Foretop- 
mast,  exclusive  of  the  pole  which  is  ^  the  length  of 
the  Top  Gallant  Mast. 

Mizen  Topmast  f  of  the  Mizen  Mast. 

Mizen  Top  Gallant  mast  ^  the  length  of  the  Mizen 
Topmast,  and  the  pole  ^  the  length  of  the  Top  Gal- 
lant Mast. 

Jib  Boom  the  length  of  the  Bowsprit,  f  of  which 
length  is  rigged  without  the  Bowsprit  Cap. 

Main  yard  twice  the  ship's  extreme  breadth. 

Main  Topsail  yard  f  of  the  Main  Yard. 

Main  Top  gallant  yard  f  Main  Topsail  Yard. 

Fore  yard  f  of  the  Main  Yard. 

Fore  Topsail  Yard  f  of  the  Fore  Yard. 

Fore  Topgallant  Yard  f  of  the  Foretopsail  Yard. 

Royal  Yards  f  the  length  of  the  respective  Top 
Gallant  Yards. 

Cross  Jack  Yards  same  length  as  the  Main  Top- 
sail Yard. 

Mizen  Topsail  Yard  the  same  length  as  the  Main 
Top  Gallant  Yards. 

Mizen  Top  Gallant  Yard  f  of  the  Mizen  Topsail 
Yard. 
•    Spritsail  yards  f  of  the  Fore  Topsail  Yard. 

Remark. — Some  have  the  Spritsail  Yard  the 
length  of  the  Fore  Topsail  Yard,  or  nearly  so,  if  it 
should  be  much  shorter,  the  Jib  sheets  will  chafe 
against  the  Spritsail  Braces. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  283 

'  Spanker  Boom  the  length  of  the  Main  Top  sail 
yard ;  it  is,  however,  made  sometimes  longer,  and 
sometimes  shorter  according  to  fancy. 

Mizen  Gaff  f  of  the  Spanker  Boom,  liable  to  the 
same  variation. 


50.   Thickness  of  Spars. 

Masts. — It  has  been  customary  to  allow  for  every 
3  feet  of  the  Main  Mast's  length,  one  inch  of  diame- 
ter in  the  partners,  nine-tenths  of  an  inch  diameter  in 
the  middle  between  the  partners  and  the  extremity  of 
the  head,  and  two  thirds  under  the  Hounds,  and 
all  other  masts  in  the  same  proportion,  and  with 
these  proportions,  masts  have  been  usually  made.  I 
am,  however,  of  opinion,  that  li  inch  diameter  in  the 
partners  are  much  better. 


51.     Yards. 

Yards. — For  every  4  feet  of  their  length,  allow 
one  inch  of  diameter  in  the  slings,  and  half  that  di- 
ameter within  the  squares  at  the  yard  arm. 


51.  Distance  for  placing  Lower  Masts. 

Fore  Mast  \  the  length  of  Spar  Deck  from  for- 
ward.    Main  Mast  2f  as  far  from  the  Fore  Mast; 
Note.  The  above  rule  is  not  to  be  considered 


284  KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 


proper  for  all  vessels,  their  places  must  be  governed 
by  the  form  of  the  ship. 


52.  Breadth  of  Tojjs, 

Main  Top  half  the  ship's  beam. 
Fore  Top  f  of  the  Main  Top. 


54.  Rule  for  placing  Masts  in  a  Ship. 

Take  the  Ship's  length  from  the  after  part  of  the 
stem  to  the  fore  part  of  the  Stern  post  and  divide  it 
into  sevenths.  Place  the  foremast  one  seventh  of 
this  length  from  the  Stem,  the  Mainmast  f  from  the 
Foremast,  the  Mizen  Mast  f  from  the  Main  Mast,  and 
then  there  will  be  but  one  seventh  distance  between 
the  Mizen  Mast  and  the  Stern  Post.  This  rule  is  for  a 
full  built  ship,  it  must  therefore  be  varied  when  ap- 
plied to  vessels  that  are  sharp,  and  the  stem  and  stern 
posts  of  which  rake.  The  foremast  must  according- 
ly be  placed  farther  aft,  the  Mizen  Mast  farther  for- 
ward, and  the  distance  between  the  Mastsproportion- 
ably  regulated. 


YOUNG  sailor's   ASSISTANT.  2S6 

55.   To  find  the  tonnage  of  a  vessel  hy  the  United 
/States  Measurement. 

The  length  is  taken  from  the  fore  part  of  the  Main 
Stern  to  the  after  part  of  the  Stern  post,  the  Beam  is 
measured  at  the  extreme  breadth  to  the  outside  of 
the  Bends,  three  fifths  of  this  beam  is  taken  off  the 
length  before  the  calculation  is  made.  For  a  double 
decked  vessel,  half  the  breadth  of  beam  is  called  the 
depth  of  hold,  and  for  a  single  decked  vessel  it  is  the 
same,  except  that  the  hold  is  measured  at  the  fore 
part  of  the  Main  Hatchway,  from  the  Deck  down  to 
the  ceiling  alongside  of  the  Keelson. 

To  proceed  on  in  this  calculation  after  all  the  al- 
lowances have  been  made,  the  length  must  be  multi- 
plied by  the  breadth,  and  that  product  by  the  depth 
of  Hold,  then  divide  the  last  product  by  95,  and  the 
quotient  will  give  the  tonnage  required. 

Formerly  the  British  divided  by  94  for  merchant 
vessels  and  for  ships  of  war  by  100  ;  but  I  have  been 
informed  that  they  noAv  divide  by  100  both  for  ships 
of  war  and  merchantmen,  which  is  the  reason  that 
they  make  our  ship's  tonnage  less  than  we  do. 

Notes  on  the  tonnage  of  a  vessel. 

The  Ship  Carpenters'  tonnage  in  Philadelphia  dif- 
fers from  the  United  States  measurement. 

A  rule  staff  is  laid  under  the  keel  projecting  for- 


286  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

ward,  a  line  is  plumbed  from  the  upper  part  of  the  fore 
part  of  the  stern  to  the  rule  staff,  the  keel  is  measured 
from  its  after  part  to  the  plumb-line,  and  inclu- 
ding the  Rule  staff,  this  is  called  the  length  of  Keel 
straight  rabbit,  the  beam  is  measured  from  skin  to 
skin  on  tho-inside,  three  fifths  of  the  beam  is  taken 
off  the  keel  straight  rabbit,  for  the  length,  and  the 
calculation  in  other  respects  is  the  same  as  United 
States  measurement,  so  that  the  Carpenters'  tonnage 
in  Philadelphia  will  be  less  according  to  the  rake  of 
the  Stern  Post,  &c. 

The  dead  rise  of  a  vessel  is  found  by  having  a  staff 
half  the  beam  from  skin  to  skin,  at  the  extreme 
breadth  which  staff  is  laid  even  across  on  the  ceiling 
of  the  fore  part  of  the  Main  Hatchway,  one  of  the 
limber  boards  being  taken  up,  a  line  is  let  fall  from 
the  staff  to  the  skin  alongside  the  Keelson,  and  what 
it  measures,  is  the  vessel's  dead  rise,  so  that  in  order 
to  know  how  sharp  a  vessel  is,  it  is  customary  to  ask 
how  much  dead  rise  she  has. 


56.  Stepping  mid  raking  lower  Masts. 

Foremasts  of  all  ships  should  be  stepped  plumb  or 
perpendicular  to  a  water  line,  all  Mainmasts  should 
rake  one  inch  to  every  four  feet  above  deck,  and  all 
Mizen  Masts  should  rake  one  inch  to  every  three  feet 


287 

above  deck.  All  Bowsprits  should  be  stepped  in  a 
direct  line  drawn  from  the  step  of  the  Mainmast  to 
the  lower  part  of  the  Bowsprit  bed,  this  line  answers 
for  I  he  lower  part  of  the  Bowsprit. 

It  has  been  the  opinion  of  many  Sea  Officers  that 
a  mast  by  raking  will  aid  a  ship  in  saiHng,  but  it  has 
been  satisfactory  proved,  that  it  has  the  contrary  ef- 
fect ;  for  instance,  a  ship  that  has  her  masts  perpen- 
dicular only  has  to  bear  them  in  two  positions,  the 
one  on  the  step  and  the  other  on  the  side  of  support, 
her  yards  hang  free,  brace  easy,  and  bear  no  strain 
against  them,  whereas  a  ship  with  her  masts  raking, 
has  to  bear  them  in  three  positions,  the  one  on  the 
step,  one  on  the  side  of  support,  and  the  other,  which 
is  very  great,  on  the  fore  and  aft  stays,  her  yards  also 
hang  very  heavy  against  the  Mast,  which  adds  also 
to  the  fore  support,  this  must  cause  a  great  check  in 
the  progressive  movements  in  the  ship.  A  sharp  ves- 
sel or  ship,  with  a  lean  harping  by  raking  her  masts, 
frequently  eases  her  in  pitching,  but  never  adds  to 
her  sailing,  the  wind  having  less  power  on  her  sails, 
and  the  principal  reasons  why  a  ship's  Main  and 
Mizen  masts  should  rake  a  little  from  her  foremast, 
is,  that  by  separating  the  masts  in  this  way,  the  wind 
has  a  better  chance  of  effecting  its  full  power  on  all 
the  sails,  and  of  striking  that  part  of  them  that  other- 
wise would  be  of  little  or  no  advantage  to  the  ship. 


288 


KEDGE    ANCHOR;   OR 


57.  Method  of  an  estimate  of  Standing  and  Run- 
ning rigging  required  for  the  outfit  of  aA4,  Gun 
Frigate,  U.  S.  Navy. 


Size 

Len?tli 

Add 

in. 

u 

124 
376 

in.    1  in. 

n\  If 

1087  396 
213|604 

in. 

2 

1229 

71 

in. 

2i 
700 
100 

in. 

3793 
57 

in. 

21 
76( 

9(; 

in. 

3 

3170 

90 

3260 

in. 

3i 

1000 
90 

1090 

in. 

3i 

2385 

90 

2475 

m. 

31 
6140 

eo 

6230 

in 

4 

1280 

90 

1370 

in. 

114 
90 

Total 

500 

isooiiooo 

1300 

800 

385C 

350 

204 

in. 

in. 

4f 
160 
90 

250 

in. 

5 

491 

90 

581 

in. 

90 

90 

in. 

M 
15 

)0 

135 

in. 

6 

470 
50 

520 

in. 

61 

182 

5S 

240 

in. 

7 
110 
30 

140 

in. 
8 

u 

89 
100 

in^ 

81 
98 
2 

100 

in. 

9 
31 

in. 

lU 

8 
(( 

8 

in. 

Size 

Length 

Add 

4i 

885 

90 

975 

12 

8 

c; 

Total 

31 

8 

58.  Shroud  laid  Cordasre. 


In. 

Coils 

Fms. 

In. 

Coil.'? 

Fms. 

In. 

Coils 

Fms. 

u 

5 

100 

4i 

7 

125  Cathead  stoppers, 

8 

14 

U 

13 

100 

1 

100  Wind, 

7* 

18 

n 

10 

100 

41 

2 

125  Shank  Painters 

7 

15 

2 

13 

100 

5 

4 

125 l2lthread  Ratline, 

600 

2i 

8 

100 

1 

100 

18     " 

300 

2* 

••  30 

100 

5i 

1 

100 

15     " 

500 

1 

125 

5i 

1 

135 

12     " 

300 

2f 

6 

100 

6 

4 

100 

9    "           «< 

200 

2 

125 

1 

125 

6    "     Seizings 

300 

3 

29 

100 

6i 

2 

120 

Hambroline, 

300 

(3 

120 

7 

1 

140 

Marline     )  ,  ,  ., 
Houselinej^^^^te 

I30ths. 

3i 

11 

100 

8 

1 

100 

130ths. 

3i 

21 

100 

8^ 

1 

100 

Worming  36  yarn 

5 

3 

135 

y 

Ip 

34 

c.        =44^    a 

2 

31 

49 

125 

lU 

IP 

8 

Assorted 

5 

1 

100 

12 

IP 

8 

Spinyarn  5  yarn 

8 

4 

11 

12o 

u        4      t( 

9 

4i 

2 

125 

"        3     " 

8 

n        2     " 

7    ' 

YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT, 


289 


Note.  Only  one  warp  in  a  coil,  each  coil  to  be  tallied  with  the 
size,  number  of  fathoms  and  weight.  The  tallies  to  be  either 
leather  or  Canvass.  Each  warp  to  be  its  full  length,  clear  of  fag 
ends,  and  proof  strands,  the  proof  strands  to  be  six  feet  clear  of  fag 
ends. 


59. 


&  60.     44  Gim  Frigate  continued. 

standing  rigging  4  strand  Cable  laid. 


fms.  ft. 


'ins-  ft, 


Main  Stay, 
Spring    " 
Fore         " 
Spring     " 
Mizen 


Fore  and  M.  Mast 
head  pendants, 

Fore  Shrouds, 

Main    " 

Mizen    " 

Inner  &  Middle  Bob- 
stays, 

Cap  Bobstay 

F.  Topmast  Shrouds, 

Main  Shrouds, 

Mizen      do. 

p  ore  Top  Standing  \ 

B.    stay,  S 

Main  do.' 

Mizen  do. 

F.  T.  Mast  Bt.        1 
Backstays,  5 

Main  do. 

Mizen  do. 

F.  T.  Gt.  Shrouds 

Flying  Jib  Guys, 
"     "    Martingale 

Gammoning 

Deck  Stoppers, 

Buoy  ropes, 

F.  &M.  Bentick&) 
Bowsprit  shrouds   5 


m 

101 
10* 

7i 
8 

7 

H 
5 


61 

5i 

4 

3i 
o\ 

6 
10 

•  8 

8i 


18 

199 
249 
121 

23 

17 

83 

HI 

55 

78 

84 
33 


17     22    4  Fore  Topmast  Stay 
12^,    22    4    'V       "     Spring 
IG      15        Main   " 
12      15    2      "     Spring 
9      IC    4  Mizen 

"     Spring 

3  Strand  Cable  laid  Cordage. 

Main  Shrouds, 

Mizen    do. 

F.   T.  Gt.  Sprin 

Back  stays, 
Main        do. 
Mizen      do. 
F.  T.  Gt.  Back  stays 
Main        do. 
Mizen        do. 
Standing  Jib  stay, 

do.    do.  Guy, 
Travelling    do. 
Martingale, 
MainT.  Gt.  Stay, 
Fore  do. 

Mizen         do. 
Flying  Jib  stay. 
Bumpkin  shds.  M.^ 


legs  &  spank,  boom  ' 

Topping  Lifts, 
F.&M.ftk.shds.& 
Catharpin  legs, 
F.  Tks.  tapered  each, 
2  Main    do.      do. 
2  Fore  sheets     do. 
i2  Main    do.      do. 


25 


4 

88 

2^ 

62 

41 

92 

41 

103 

3i 

39 

4 

44 

4 

50 

21 

38 

5 

33 

4 

64 

3* 

32 

41 

59 

4f 

30 

4f 

35 

3* 

13 

4 

40 

5 

62 

6^ 

95 

5* 

31 

41 

32 

5 

32 

5 

31 

290  KEDGE   ANCHORj   Oil 

61.  Fore  riggivig  to  he  in  warps  hy  pair 3. 

fms,  ft. 

1st  warp  to  contain     No.  1,  2  &  3,     64  2 

2d     "       «         «          «      4,  5,  &  6,     66  4 

3d    "      «        «          "      7, 8,  <fc9,    68  4 


fms.     199         4 


62.  Main  Shrouds  in  tvarps  hy  pairs. 

fms.  ft. 

]  St  warp  to  contain,  No.  1 ,  2,  &  3,        72  4 

2d  '•     «         "         "      4, 5,  &  6,         73  4 

3d  "     «        "        ''  7,  8,  9,  &  10,    102  4 


fms.    249        0 


63.  Mizen  rigging  to  he  in  one  warp. 
No.  1,  2,  3,  4, 5  &  6,  pairs  of  shrouds,  121  fathoms. 

Main  Topmast  Shrouds  to  he  i?i  one  loarp. 

g  No.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  <fc  6,  pairs  of  shrouds  to  contain 
111  fathoms,  4  feet. 


64;  44  Gun  ship  continued. 
Fore  Topmast  Shrouds  in  one  warp. 

No.  1,  2,  3,  4,  &  5,  pairs  of  Shrouds  to  contain  83 
fathoms. 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT 


291 


Mizefi  Topmast  Shrouds  to  he  in  one  warp. 

No.  1,  2,  3  &  4,  pair  of  shrouds  to  contain  55  fms, 
2  feet. 

Note.  All  the  lower  topmast,  and  topgallant  rig- 
ging to  be  made  their  respective  lengths,  clear  of  fag 
ends  and  proof  strands,  and  to  be  tallied  with  what 
they  are  for  length,  size,  number  of  fathoms,  and 
weight,  either  on  wood  or  Canvass. 


Cat  head  Stoppers, 

Fish  Davit  Guys, 

2  Cat  falls, 

Shank  Painters, 

1  Deck  Tackle  fall, 

1  Fish  Tackle  fall, 

1  Catting  Tackle  fall, 

Rudder  Pendants, 

1  Buoy  rope, 

Back  ropes  for  Cat  and  fish, 

Bitt  Stoppers, 

60  lbs  sewing  &  whipping  twine 

150  lbs  of  Tallow, 

12  bbls  Tar, 

15  sides  sole  leather, 

45    do.  half  Tanned  do. 

25    do.  Bellows  do. 


15  lbs.  white  line, 

8  Galls.  Fish  Oil, 

2000  yards  of  old  Canvass, 

4000  Scupper  nails, 

2000  Pump  Tacks, 

10  lbs.  Clout  Nails, 

8  lbs.  Shoe  Thread, 

4  Bunches  Bristles, 

30  fms.  4i  inch  White  rope, 

360  '•    U  inch  signal  haliards, 

12  awl  blades, 

12  do.  handles, 

50  assorted  sail  needles, 

12  Palm  Plates, 

4  bolts  new  Canvass, 

20  Gallons  Tan  Oil. 


65.  Estwiate  of  Standing  and  Running  Riggiiig 
required  for  the  outfits  of  a  Sloop  of  War  of  the 
1st  Class  mounting  22  Gims. 

4  Strand  Cable  laid  Cordage. 


in 

Ims 

in.  fins. 

Main  Stay, 

12 

m 

F  Top  Main  Stays,  each 

6^39i 

Spring  Stay, 

n 

Hi 

Main  Topmast    do. 

6*j21 

Fore  Stay, 

12 

11 

'<     Spring        *' 

4|15i 

Spring  Stay, 

10 

11 

Mizen  Topmast  " 

4|!9i 

Mizen  Stay, 

Li 

12 

"       Spring       " 

3|i9i 

292 


Fore  Shrouds  by  pairs,  8  inches,  No.  1, 104  ft.  No. 
2. 1 04^  ft.  No.  3,  105i  ft.  No.  4.  106  ft.  No.  5,  109  ft. 
No.  6, 109^  ft,,  to  be  in  one  warp.  120  fathoms. 

Main  Shrouds,  8  inch  by  pairs.  No.  1, 116  ft.  No. 
2,  116^  ft.  No.  3,  118  ft.  No.  4,  IIS^-  ft.  No.  5,  120 
ft.,  No.  6,  120^  ft.  No.  7,  122  ft.  to  be  in  two  warps. 

1st  Warp  to  contain.        No.  1, 2,  3, 4,         78  fms. 

2d    do.  do.  "    5, 6,  7,  60    « 

Mast  head  pendants  to  2d  Warp,  add  17    " 


155  fms. 


Mizen  Shrouds  5}  inch  by  pairs,  No.  1,  94  feet, 
No.  2, 94^  ft..  No.  3,  95  ft..  No.  4,  95^  ft.,  No.  5,  95  ft., 
in  one  warp  to  contain  80  fathoms. 

Fore  Topmast  Shrouds  4^  inch  by  pairs.  No.  1,  76 
ft.,  No.  2, 76ft.,  No.  3,  77  ft.  6  in.,  No.  4, 77  ft.  10  in.  in 
one  warp  to  contain  52  fathoms. 

Fore  Top  Mast,  S.  Back  Stays  5^  in.  by  pairs.  No. 
1, 173  ft.  No.  2, 173  ft.  6  in.  in  one  wrap  to  contain  57 
fathoms. 

Main  Top  Mast,  S.  Back  Stays,  5|-  in.  by  pairs. 
No.  1,  190  ft.,  No.  2,  190  ft.  6  in.  in  one  warp  to  con- 
tain 63  fms.  2  feet. 

Main  Topmast  Shrouds,  4i  inch  by  pairs.  No.  1, 
82  ft.,  No.  2,  S'3i  ft.,  No.  3,  84^  ft.,  No.  4,  85  ft.,  in  one 
wrap  to  contain  56  fathoms. 


YOUNG    SAILOR'S    ASSISTANT. 


293 


Mizen  Topmast  S.  Backstays,  4^  inch,  148  feet  is, 
24  fms.  4  feet. 

Mizen  Topmast  Shrouds  3f  inch,  No.  1,  64  feet, 
No.  2,  65,  No.  3, 65,  in  one  warp  to  contain  32  fras, 
2  feet. 


I  size.l"ms.|ft. 


size  I  fras.  I  ft. 


F.T.M.  Breast  Back 
Stay, 

Main    do.  1  pair, 

Mizen  do. 

Standing  Jib  Stay, 
Guys, 

Travellins:        *' 

Martingale, 

F.  T.  G.  Stay, 

Flying  Jib  do. 
Guys, 

Martingale, 

F.  T.  Gt.  Shrouds, 

"    "  Standing  Back 
Stay, 

if  2  pair  but  if  only  1 

F.  T:  Gt.  B.  Back- 
stays, 

M.  T.  Gt.  Shrouds, 
"         Stay, 

"  Standing  B.  do. 

if  2  pair  but  if  only  1 

F.     Tacks     tapered 
each. 

"    Sheets, 


5 

28 

(( 

5 

31 

(C 

4^ 

24 

4 

4i 

30 

3^ 

23 

3 

22 

3i 

40 

U 

28 

3i 

36 

5 

2f 

28 

3 

27 

3i 

60 

3f 

70 

35 

3i 

35 

3i 

65 

4^ 

60 

3f 

76 

« 

38 

41 

21 

(1 

4f 

23 

(( 

M.    r.  Gt.  B.  Back 

Stay, 

Mizen  T.  Gt.  Stay, 
'  Shrouds, 

'    S.  Backstays, 

F.  &  M.  Futtock  and 
Catharpln  Legs, 

Royal  Stays, 
Shrouds, 

Gammoning, 

Bowsprit  Shrouds, 

Buoy  Ropes, 

Inner  Bobstays  if  2 
if  only  one, 

Cap  Bobstay, 

Bumpkin  Shrouds,  • 

Mizen  Futtock  Shds 

Cat  harpin  legs  and 
Spanker  bra.  Top- 
ping Lifts, 

M.    Tacks     tapered 
each, 
"     Sheets, 


3^ 

38 

2S 

9 

2i 

50 

2f 

30 

^ 

160 

2 

53 

n 

53 

5^ 

32 

6 

25 

6 

26 

61 

19 

7 

9 

5| 

12 

3? 

62 

4i 

25 

41 

22 

Note.  All  the  foregoing  Cordage  to  be  cable  laid 
and  to  measure  their  lengths  on  the  stretch,  clear  of 
fag  ends  and  proof  strands,  each  coil  and  warp  to  be 
tallied  with  what  they  are  for,  weight,  size,  number 
of  fathoms,  either  on  wood  or  canvass. 


25^ 


294  KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 

66.  Running  rigging  Shroud  laid. 


size 

1 

fms 
362 

coils. 
-      2 

size 
2f 

fms. 
110 

coils. 
1 

size 

fms. 

coUs. 
1 

4^ 

79 

u 

550 

3 

2f 

1855 

18 

4| 

289 

3 

u 

800 

6 

3 

745 

7 

4* 

80 

1 

11 

800 

8 

3^ 

136 

1 

4f 

207 

2 

2 

1722 

16 

3i 

1855 

18 

5^ 

379 

4 

2^ 

180 

1 

3i 

400 

4 

6^ 

90 

1 

2i 

844 

4 

31 

389 

4 

6f 

87 

1 

2i 

1685 

16 

4 

261 

3 

Note  All  the  running  rigging  to  be  their  full 
length,  clear  of  fag  ends  and  proof  strands,  the  proof 
strands  to  be  6  feet  clear  of  the  fag  ends.  Every 
coil  to  be  tallied  with  the  weight,  size  and  fathoms, 
either  on  wood  or  Canvass. 


in.    Ifins.  1 

in.  ifms.j 

Cat  head  Stoppers, 

6 

10 

Bambroline, 

200 

lbs- 

Wing            do. 

5 

16 

Houseline  white 

85 

<( 

Bitt               do. 

5 

16 

Marline, 

85 

« 

Shank  Painters, 

5 

12 

Tallow, 

150 

(( 

21  thread  Ratline, 

400 

Tar, 

7 

bis. 

18    do.        do. 

200 

Sole  leather, 

10 

side 

15    do.        do. 

250 

Half  tanned  do. 

31 

(1 

12    do.        do. 

200 

Bellows,        do. 

17 

9    do.        do- 

250 

Sewing  Twine. 

25 

lbs. 

6     do.         do. 

600 

Whipping  do. 

15 

tt 

White  Line, 

10 

ths. 

Palm  plates. 

12 

n 

Old  Canvass, 

1334 

yds. 

Worming  24  yarn  , 

4 

coil 

Scupper  Nails, 

2667 

do.      30    do. 

1 

(( 

Clout  Nails, 

6A 

ths. 

do,    Assorted, 

3 

« 

Pump  Tacks, 

1300 

Spinyarn  5  yarn. 

5 

ii 

Shoe  Thread, 

3 

ths. 

do.        4     do. 

5 

« 

Bristles, 

3 

bun. 

do.        3    do. 

9 

(( 

Sail  needles  ass. 

50 

do.        2     do. 

12 

(C 

Awl  Blades, 

12 

White  rope,  |  inch. 

25 

fms 

"    Handles, 

12 

Signal  Haliards, 

340 

(( 

YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT 


295 


^7.  Dimensions  of  the  Standing  and  Rmming  of 
a  Ship  of  the  Line^  U.  /S.  Navy. 


in. 

fms. 

in. 

fms. 

Bowsprit. 

Sheets,      - 

"31 

40 

Downhaul, 

'^1 

35 

Gammoning,    - 

7 

128 

Shrouds.  Cabled  3  pr. 

8h 

56 

Collar,  '  -         -        - 

9h 

15 

Jib  of  Jib  Boom. 

Bobstays,  3,  121,  Hi  ) 
9  inches.                    5 
Collars,     - 
Man  Ropes,     - 

9 
11 

5 

16 

15 

17 

Jib  of  Jib  Stay, 
Boom  Guys, 
Heel  Rope, 
Foot  Ropes.     - 
Halyards, 

3i 

21 
21 

53 

47 

45 

9 

2f 

64 

Spritsail  Yaid. 

4 

4h 

Sheets,      -        .        - 

21 

50 

Downhaul, 

2 

40 

Slings,      - 

4 

4h 

Martingale  Stay, 

3 

75 

Lifts, 

3^ 
4 

16 

7^ 

Foot  ropes, 

Stirrups,  -        -        - 

3 

h 

Fore  Mast  and  Yard. 

Braces,      -        -        _ 

3.1 

62 

Shrouds  Cabled,  10  prs. 
Lanyards, 

U 

51 

245 

Jib  Boom. 

Ratlines, 

2i 

Stay  Cabled,     - 

17 

17 

Jib  Stay  Cabled, 

61 

45 

Lanyards, 

6 

18 

Guy  pendants,  3  pairs, 

5^ 

70 

Collar,      - 

9 

Falls, 

3 

(( 

Preventer  Stay  Cabled, 

13* 

17 

Martingale  Stay, 

5 

53 

Lanyards, 

5* 

Pendants, 

41 

Collar,  double, 

7^ 

Halyards, 

31 

65 

Catharpin  legs, 
Bentick  Shrouds, 

7 

Sheets,      - 

4J 

70 

8i 

17i 

Downhaul, 

31 

42 

Lanyards, 

4i 

Outhauler, 

41 

Jeer  Pendants, 

10 

28 

Upper  Brails, 

If 

60 

Falls,        -        -        - 

5 

116 

Lower      "         -        - 

3 

35 

Yard  Lifts, 

6^ 

100 

Boom  foot  Ropes, 

4 

18 

"    auarter  Lifts, 

5^ 

52 

"    foot  Ropes, 
"     Stirrups, 

5i 
4i 

21 

24 

Flying  Jib  Boom. 

"    Tackle  pendants, 

7 

13 

Flying  Jib  Stay,  C'bl'd, 

4i 

50 

"          "     falls,      - 

Braces,  - 

"        Preventer,    - 

4i 

5* 

112 
16 

Martingale  Guy,  2  prs. 
Boom  Guys, 

4 

3J 

65 
60 
36 

83 

Heel  Rope, 

Foot  Ropes,     - 

3' 

12 

Fore  Yard  and  Mast. 

Halyards, 

3J 

55 

Truss  pendants, 

7 

12 

1          ^ 

296 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


Truss  Falls,     - 

Slings,      - 

Lanyard, 

Fo^e  Tacks,  Cabled, 
"    Sheets,      " 
"     Clew  Garnets, 
"     Reef  Pendants, 
"     Buntline    " 
"  "      Whips, 

"     Bowlines, 
"  "        Bridles, 

''     Slab  Lines, 
"     Bill  tricing  Lines, 
"     Gluarter  •'        " 
"     Clew  Jiggers, 
"     Lift 
"     Bunt        " 
"    In  &  Out  ''• 
"    Storm  stay, 
"        "       "  sail  Hal 
"         "       "  sheets, 
"         "     Downhaul, 

Lower  St'g.  sail  outer 

Halyards, 
Lower  St'g.  sail  inner 
Halyards, 

Lower  Sheets, 
"      Tacks, 
«'      Boom  Top.  Lfts, 
"      Whips, 
"       After  Guys,   - 
"       Forward  Guys, 

St'g.  sail  Gear  Tricing 
Line, 


F.  Top  Mast  and  Yard^ 

Shrouds  Cabled  6  pairs, 

Lanyards 

Ratline      -        -        - 

Stay  Cabled,     - 

Spring  stay, 

Breast  Back  Stays    - 

Standing  do,    do.  2  prs. 

Futtock  Shrouds, 

Ratline,     -        -        - 


fms 


58 
40 
48 
70 
50 
34 
56 

37 
36 
21 

100 

55 

26 

50 
40 
86 
91 

43 


124  i 


Top  Rope  Pendants, 

Falls, 

Top  Burton  pendants, 
''         «'         Falls,     - 
Topsail  Yard  Tyes, 
"       Parrel, 
"      Foot  Ropes, 
"      yard  Stirrups 
"      Braces, 
tc      Lifts 

'•      Rolling  Tackle 
'•'     Downhaul  do, 
"      Haliards,     - 
"      Sheets  double^ 
"      Reef  Pendants 
"        "       Whips, 
"      Buntlines,    - 
''      Pendants,     - 
"      Bowlines,    - 
"      Bridles, 
"      Clewlines,   - 
"      Bunt  Jiggers, 
"      Clew 
T.  M.  Staysail  Halyds, 
•'       Sheets, 
"      Tacks,  each  - 
"       Downhaul, 
"       Boom  Braces, 
"       Brace  Pendants, 
"       Tricing  Line, 


F.  T.  G.  Mast  ^  Yard. 

Shrouds  Cabled,  3  prs. 
Lanyards, 

Ratline,     -        -        - 
Stay  Cabled,     - 
Lanyard, 

B.  Backstays,  Cabled  ) 
1  pair,  S 

Standing  Back  Stays  } 
1  pair,  5 

Lanyards,  B.  B.  S,  - 
Lanyards,  S.  B.  S.  - 
Mast  Rope, 


5 
6 
4 

7 
7 
4i 

41 

6 

31 

31 

4i 

7 

41 

31 

31 

4 

4* 


J  15 
J  17 
105 
5 
115 
42 

16 

116 
74 

20 

47 

114 

80 
45 

74 
74 
28 
70 


31 

31 

4 

3 

3i 

4i 

3^ 


4^ 
2i 

7 


58 
52 
47 
60 
94 
5 
46 


33 

43 

47 
49 

60 


YOUNG   SAILOR'S    ASSISTANT.' 


297 


■^  ■ 

in. 

fins.] 

in. 

fms. 

Pendant, 

"ei 

~lo 

Stdg.  Sail  Sheets,  - 

"n 

~li3 

Falls,        -        -        - 

4 

48 

'  "    "     "     Tacks,  - 

21 

40 

Yard  Rope, 

7 

60 

"    ''    "    Downhaul, 

15^'' 

39 

"    Lifts,        -        - 

4f 
3 

60 
122 

"     Braces,     - 

"    Foot  Ropes,      - 

3* 

JO 

Fore  Skysail  Mast  and 

"     Stirrups,  - 

Yard. 

«     Tyes, 
Top  Gallant  Halyards, 
"         "         Sheets, 

6i 
31 

41 

11 

48 
80 

Trysail  Stay,   - 
"     Back  Stay, 

2i 

57 
63 

"        "         Buntlines, 

2| 

74 

"    Mast  Rope, 

3 

63 

<'         "         Bowlines, 

2f 

98 

"     Halyard,      - 

2 

56 

"         "         Bridles, 

"     Sheets, 

If 

54 

«'         "        Clewlines, 

3 

76 

"     Tripping  Line, 

15ih 

24 

Bunt  Jigger,      - 
Sty.  Sail  Halyards,  - 
"       Sheets, 

2^ 
21 

12 

90 

28 

Fore  Moon  Sail  Pole. 

"       Tacks, 

2f 

60 

Moon  sail  Halyards  IJ, 

4U 

46 

•'     B.  Tricing  line, 

2f 

32 

Main  Mast  and  Yard. 

F.  R.  Mast   and    Yard. 

Shrouds  Cabled,  11  prs. 

lU 

300 

Royal  Shrouds  cabled, 

8| 

39 

Lanyards, 

51 

Lanyards, 

Ratline, 

2i 

"      Stay  Cabled,   - 

3 

51 

Stay  Cabled,     - 

18 

32 

Lanyards, 

Lanyard, 

6 

"      B.  Bk.  S.  cabled. 

3 

56 

Collar, 

Lanyards, 

Preventer  Stay  Cabled, 

144 

32 

«      Standing      B.    ) 
Backstays  cabled,    ) 

31 

57 

Lanyards, 

6 

Collar, 

Lanyards, 

Catharpin  Legs, 

7 

Mast  Rope, 

44 

65 

Bentick  Shrouds, 

84 

22 

"    Yard  Rope,      - 

4A 

65 

Lanyards, 

"        "     Lifts, 

3* 

58 

Lashings, 

"        "     Braces,     - 

2f 

78 

Jeer  pendants. 

10 

30 

"         "     Foot  Ropes, 

3 

n 

"    Falls, 

5 

132 

"         «     Halyards, 

3 

24 

Stay  Tackle  Pendants, 

7 

5 

«        "     Sheets,     - 

2| 

42 

"       Fall,      - 

44 

50 

"        "     Buntlines, 

2f 

44 

Yard  Lifts,        - 

64 

106 

"        "     Bowlines, 

2| 

55 

"     auarterLift,    - 

(( 

60 

"        "     Bridles,    - 

•'     Foot  Ropes,      - 

54 

24 

"         "     Clewlines, 

n 

42 

"     Tackle  Pendants, 

7 

13 

"        "     Bunt  Jigger, 

"        "        Falls,  - 

34 

120 

''     Tripp,  line. 

2 

32 

"         Braces, 

54 

120 

''        "     Stdg.     Sail 

Preventer            " 

(( 

77 

Halyards, 

n 

66 

Brace  Pendants, 

11 

298 


HEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


in. 
7 

fnis. 

in. 

T 

tins. 

Yard  Truss  Pendanis, 

~u 

Topsail  Tye, 

~46" 

Falls,       - 

3^ 

44 

Parrel  long  leg, 

7 

17  ft 

Slings,     - 

15 

10^ 

"      short  leg, 

7 

9  ft 

Lanyards, 

6 

b 

Topsail  Foot  Ropes, 

4i 

17^ 

Main  Tacks,  Cabled, 

7 

96 

"     Stirrups, 

4 

18 

Preventer     " 

7 

12 

"    Yard  Braces, 

5 

88 

Sheets, 

/ 

96 

'•    Lifts, 

6 

80 

Clew  Garnets, 

4i 

70 

"     RoLTack. 

26 

Reef  Pendants, 

41 

10 

"        "     Down.  " 

31 

50 

Buntline  " 

3f 

49 

Topsail  Halyards, 

4* 

124 

"     Whips, 

3| 

70 

"     Sheets, 

7 

86 

Bowlines, 

3 

24 

"     Reef  Pendants, 

41 

54 

Runners, 

3| 

10 

"    Whips, 

3^ 

80 

"      Bridles, 

Buntlines, 

3f 

82 

Leechlines, 

3 

54 

"       Pendants, 

U 

32 

Slablines, 

2 

100 

Bowlines, 

4^ 

70 

Bill  Tricing  Lines, 

2 

40 

Bridles, 

3| 

Quarter      " 

n 

48 

Clew  lines, 

4 

100 

Clew  Jiggers, 

n 

80 

Clew  Jiggers,    - 

Lift 

31 

56 

Bunt 

Bunt         " 

3 

34 

T.M. Staysail  stay,  (see 

In  &  Out" 

3 

70 

Spring  stay.) 

M.  Storm  staysail  Stay, 

8 

19 

Halyards, 

4 

58 

"     Halyards, 

4 

46 

"         Sheets, 

3i 

45 

.  "        "     Sheets, 

4| 

42 

"         Tacks, 

4^ 

18 

,  "        "    Downhaul, 

4| 

44 

''         Downhaul, 

3i 

42 

Middle  Staysail  stay, 
•'         "     Halyards, 

41 
4 

37 

42 

Main  Topmast  <^  Yard. 

"         "     Sheets, 

3| 

37 

"         "     Tacks, 

3 

5 

Shrouds,  Cabled,  7  prs. 

7 

151 

"         "     Downhaul, 

3 

38 

Lanyards, 

3f 

Studding  sail  Halyard, 

H 

104 

Ratline, 

U 

"     Sheets, 

4* 

85 

Stay,  Cabled,    - 

Sh 

30 

"     Tacks, 

4| 

76 

Lanyard, 

"    Downhaul, 

3 

68 

Spring  Slay  Cabled, 

20 

Boom  Braces, 

3^ 

120 

Lanyard, 

"     Pendants, 

4* 

6 

B.  Backstay,  Cab'd,  2  p. 

7 

90 

"     Tricing  Lines- 

3i 

46 

Standing      "            2  p. 

71 

94 

o 

Lanyard  B.  B.  S.      - 

4i 

'«      S.  B.  S.       - 

4i 

M.T.Gt.M.andYard. 

Futtock  Shrouds, 

7 

"     Ratline, 

If 

T.  G.   Shrouds  cabled 

Top  rope  pendants, 

9 

1921 

3  pairs. 

41 

38 

"       "     Falls,        - 

5 

123 

Lanyards, 

3 

''  Burton  " 

4 

120 

Ratline,      - 

"        "      pendants, 

6 

6 

Stay  Cabled,     - 

5 

36 

YOUNG  SAILOR'S  ASSISTANT. 


299 


in. 

fms. 

in. 

fas. 

Lanyard, 

Yard  Rope, 

li 

70 

Standing  Bk.  Stays  1  pr 

5 

56 

"     Lifts, 

3^ 

74 

Lanyards, 

"     Braces,     - 

3 

73 

Mast  Pendants, 

7 

12 

"     Foot  Ropes,     - 

7i 

«     Falls,       - 

4i 

62 

"     Stirrups, 

Mast  Rope, 

7 

67 

"     Halyards,         -    . 

28 

Yard  Rope,       - 

7 

67 

«     Sheets,      - 

3 

52 

*«     Lifts, 

4 

64 

"    Buntlines, 

21 

50 

"     Braces,    - 

3i 

96 

Legs, 

"    Foot  Ropes,      - 

3i 

lU 

'•    Bowlines, 

2i 

60 

Yard  Stirrups, 

21 

"            Bridles, 

"    Tye,"^      - 

6| 

12 

"    Clewlines, 

2f 

48 

Top  Gallant  Halyards, 

4 

56 

Bunt  Jigger, 

Sheets, 

4i 

88 

Tripping  Line,  - 
R.  Staysail  Stay,  cabl'd 

2 

34 

"              Buntlines, 

2f 

80 

3 

43 

«             Bowlines, 

2f 

84 

Halyards, 

2h 

57 

«              Bridles, 

Royal  Staysail  Sheets, 

H 

63 

Clewlines, 

3 

86 

"            "         Tacks, 

2h 

4 

Bunt  Jigger, 

U 

12 

"            «    Downhaul 

2 

22 

Up.  T.  G.  Stay  S.  Stay, 

31 

45 

Studg.  sail  Halyards, 

21 

84 

''        Haliards    - 

3i 

52 

«'     Sheets, 

u 

35 

"        Sheets, 

21 

48 

"       "     Tacks, 

2 

56 

Tacks,       - 

2f 

5 

"       "     Downhaul, 

15'h 

43 

"        Downhaul, 

4i 

35 
40 

L.    "        Stay  S.  Stay 

Main  Skysail  Mast  tf- 

"         Haliards,  - 

3 

48 

Yards. 

*'        Sheets, 

2i 

44 

'•        Tacks,      - 

2i 

5 

Skysail  Stay; 

21 

35 

"         Downhaul, 

2i 

33 

*'       Back  Stays, 

•2i 

61 

T.  Gt.  Std.  S.  Haliards, 

3^ 

108 

"       Mast  Rope, 

3i 

66 

«'         "      Sheets, 

21 

44 

"       Halyards, 

2 

42 

"        "      Tacks, 

21 

38 

"       Sheets, 

11 

56 

«        "      Tricing 

'*      Tripping  Line, 

15^ 

27 

Lines, 

18th 

35 



Main  Moon  Sail  Pole. 

M.  Royal  M.  and  Yard. 

MoonsailHalyards, 

u 

50 

Shrouds  cabled,  2  pairs 
Lanyards, 

31 

42 

Stay, 

31 

31 

Mizen   Mast    4*-    Cross 

Breast  Back  Stay,  1  pr. 

31 

62 

Jack  Yard. 

Lanyards, 

Shrouds  Cabled  7  pairs, 

71 

166 

Standing  Bk.  Stay,  1  pr. 

31 

64 

Lanyards, 

Lanyards, 

Ratline, 

U 

Mast  Rope, 

4J 

70 

(Stay  Cabled,    - 

9 

2JX 

300 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


in. 

fms 

in. 

fms. 

Lanyard, 

Lanyards, 

3 

Collar,     - 

Ratline, 

18ti> 

Cathfrpin  Legs, 

Stay  Cabled,     - 

6 

13 

Cross  Jack  Yard  Lifts, 

4i 

Preventer  do. 

5 

13 

"       Foot  Ropes, 

H 

18 

Breast  Back  Stay,  I  p, 

5 

37 

"       Stirrups, 

Lanyards, 

"       Braces, 

3^ 

68 

Standing  B'k  Stays  1  p. 

6 

39 

"       Truss  pend'ts, 

5 

^i 

Lanyards, 

Falls. 

3 

18' 

Futtock  Shrouds, 

51 

"       Slings, 

8 

Ratline, 

18^ 

Spanker  Boom  Topping 

Top  rope  Pendants, 
Falls, 

f, 

17 

Lifts,    - 

5| 

40 

3| 

47 

"          "        '«     Falls, 

31 

4c' 

Burton  Pendants, 

5 

4 

"      Guy  Pendants, 

5 

y 

"■       Falls,    - 

31 

45 

"     Falls, 

3 

10 

Topsail  Yard  Tye, 

6 

17 

"     Sheets, 

3i 

50 

«     Parrells,        - 

5i 

Foot  Ropes, 

3 

Foot  Ropes, 

4 

13 

Onthauler, 

5 

35 

Stirrups, 

Peak  Brails, 

2i 

38 

Braces, 

3i 

82 

Throat  do. 

3f 

40 

Lifts, 

4f 

30 

Middle  do. 

3 

40 

Rolling  Tackles, 

3 

19 

Foot      do. 

3i 

40 

Downhaul  do. 

3i 

33 

"     Peak  Halyards, 

4 

60 

Halyards, 

n 

52 

"     Throat     do. 

4 

40 

Topsail  Sheets, 

5 

60 

"     Vang  Falls, 

3i 

53 

ReefPendants, 

3i 

34 

"     Staysail  Stay, 

5J 

m 

«        "     Whips, 

3 

70 

"     Halyards, 

3i 

32 

"  Buntline  Pendants, 

3f 

30 

"     Sheets, 

4* 

11 

Whips, 

3 

60 

"     Tack, 

n 

10 

Bowlines, 

3 

51 

"    Downhaul, 

3i 

18 

Clue  lines, 

8i 

77 

"     Brails, 

31 

40 

Clue  Jiggers, 

Storm     "     Stay, 

T.   M.  Staysail   Stay, 

"     Halyards, 

3^ 

37 

(see  Spring  Stay,) 

"          «     Sheets, 

4i 

11 

«        "  Halyards, 

3i 

34 

"          «    Downhaul, 

3 

15 

"  Sheets, 

3 

28 

"     Mizen  Peak, 

"        "  Tacks, 

2 

12 

''      «        Halyards, 

4 

60 

"        "  Downhauls, 

2i 

23 

"    Throat        do. 

4 

40 

Middle  Staysail  Stay, 

31 

20 

"      Sheets, 

4 

40 

Halyards, 

3i 

30 

"        "      Downhaul, 

3 

38 

Sheets, 

3 

27 

Ringtail  Halyards, 

Tacks, 

21 

7 

Tack, 

3 

40 

Downhaul, 

n 

26 

Gaff  Topsail  Jack  Stay, 

li 

12i 

Mizen     Topmast    and 

"        «'    Halyards, 

31 

25 

Yard. 

«        «  Tack, 

3 

Topmast  Shrouds,  Ca- 

*'       «  Outhauler, 

21 

17 

bled  5  pair, 

5^ 

88 

"        ''  Downhaul, 

2 

26 

YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT. 


301 


M.  T.  Gt.  M.  ili"  Yard. 

Shrouds  cabled  3  pairs, 
Lanyards, 
Ratlines, 
Stay, 

Lanyards, 
B.  Back  Stay,  1  pair, 

Lanyards, 
Stand.  Bk.  Stay,  1  pair. 

Lanyard 
Mast  Pendants, 

<'     Fall, 
Mast  Rope, 
Yard  Rope,  '  - 

"    Lifts, 
"     Braces, 
"     Foot  Ropes,      - 
"     Stirrups, 
"     Tye, 
"     Halyards, 
♦'     Sheets       - 
"     Buntlines, 
"     Bowlines, 
"  "         Bridles 

"     Clew  lines, 
"     Bunt  Jiggers,  - 
T.  Gt.  Staysail  Stay, 
"        Halyards,       - 
»'       Sheets, 
"       Tacks, 
"       Downhaul, 
T.  Gt,  Std.  sail  Halyds, 
''        Sheets, 
"        Tacks, 
"         Tricing  line 


Mizen  R.  M.  and  Yard- 

Shrouds  cabled,  2  pair, 

Lanyards, 
Stay  Cabled,     - 
Breast  Backstays  1  pr 

Lanyards, 
Stand.  Bk   Stays  I  pair 

Lanyaids, 
Mast  Rope, 
Yard  Rope, 


3i 


fms 


— 

3J 

28 

u 

12ih 

31 

19 

44 

45 

9 
45 

54 
54 

60 

72 
8 

9 
40 
53 
30 
70 

70 
12 
23 
38 
37 
4 
14 
75 
J7 
24 
27 


Yard  l^itts, 
"  Braces,  - 
"  Foot  Ropes, 
**  Stirrups,  - 
"  Halyards, 
"  Sheets,  - 
"  Buntlines, 
"     Bowlines, 

Bridles, 
Clewlines, 
Bunt  Jigger, 
I'ripping  Line, 
Royal  Staysail  Stay, 
Halyards, 
"         Sheets, 
*'         Downhaul, 
R.StdgSail  Halyards, 
"         Sheets, 
"         Tacks, 
"         Downhaul. 


Miz.  Sky  sail  M.d^  Yard 
Sky  sail  Mast  Rope,  - 
Halyards, 

"         Sheets, 

''         Stays, 

Back     " 


Moon  Sail  Pole. 
Moonsail  Halyards, - 


Miseellaneous  Rigging 

Cat  falls, 

Fish  falls, 

Cat  head  stoppers,     - 

Shank  Painters, 

But  Stoppers, 

lling  Stoppers, 
24     Deck  Tackle, 

Pore  Stay  Tackles,  - 
22     Main  Stay  Tackles, 

52  '•         "     Pendants, 
Boats  Falls,      - 

53  Stern  Boats  Falls.     - 
After  Cluarter  B'ts.   - 

52     Porward  Boats  Fall, 

54  vVaist  Boats  Falls, 

26 


IS'h 

15 
15 
15 


21 

u 

18th 


U 


6i 

6 

9 

8 

7 

^h 

4^ 
7 

4i 
4 
4 
3 


302 


KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 


66.  An  Estimate  of  the  size  and  quantity  of  Blocks 
required  to  Jit  out  a  Ship  of  the  Line. 


Jib  of  Jib  Downhaul. 

Jib  of  Jib  Downhaul, 

Martingale  Stay  on  Boom  end, 
do.         do.  Tackle, 
do.         do.        do. 

Guy  Tackle, 
do. 

Halyards  at  royal  mast  head, 


Flying  Jib  Boom. 

Martingale  Stay  on  Boom  end, 

do.         do.  Tackle, 

do.  do.        do. 

Downhaul  on  Beam  on  end, 
Fore  Royal  Bowline        do.    - 
Flying  Jibstay  Tackle,  -  -     " 

do.  do. 

Guy  Tackle, 

do.  .  -  - 

Sheets  in  Clew  of  sail,  -  -    * 

Halyards  at  the  F.  T.  Gallant  M.  H.,  B.  S. 
Head  and  Heel  ropes.  Flying  Jib  boom. 


Jib.  Boom. 

20  Martingale  Stay  on  Boom  end, 

21  do.         do.  Tackle, 

22  do.         do.        do. 
23Uib  Downhaul, 

24iBrails  on  Jib  stay,      -  -  - 

^^25     do.  leading  on  Boom  end, 
^^6  Jib  Outhauler, 

271F.  T.  Gallant  Bowline  on  the  Boom  end, 


6 

CO 

Vj 

Ph 

s 

4 

s 

1 

D 

1 

S 

2 

D 

2 

S 

<^ 

s 

1 

s 

«' 

s 

it 

D 

1 

s 

1 

S' 

a 

D 

u 

s 

1 

D 

1 

S 

4 

s 

\ 

s 

4* 

s 

1 

D 

2 

s 

" 

D 

2 

S 

a 

s 

11 

s 

1 

s 

1 

s 

YOUNG   SAILOR'S   ASSISTANT. 


303 


i 

x: 

«■ 

'■ 

3 
C 

i 

'm 

2 
o 

c 

1 

6 

z; 

T 

E^ 

i 

■rt 

"3 

'J2 

2H' 

Standing  Jib  Guy  Tackle     - 

D 

r2 

39 

do.                do. 

1 

S 

12 

12 

30 

Tra veiling  Jib  Guy  Tackle, 

1 

D 

12 

11 

31 

do.                do. 

1 

S 

12 

11 

32 

Jib  Stay  Tackle, 

1 

D 

12 

11 

33 

Jib  Stay  Tackle, 

1 

S 

12 

11 

34 

do.  Sheets  In  clew  of  Sail, 

4 

S 

13 

15 

35 

Jib  boom  heel  ropes  on  Cap, 

I 

s 

13 

20 

36 

Heel  rope  Tackle  fur  Jib  Boom, 

(1 

D 

1-. 

13 

37 

do,                      do. 

<i 

s 

12 

13 

38 

Jib  Halyards  in  head  of  Sail, 

2 

s 

12 

14 

39 

do.  T.  Mt.  Trussle  Trees,  Iron  bound. 

1 

s 

13 

14 

^     BowspriL 

- 

40 
41 
42 

Spritsail  Lifts  on  the  Yard  Arm, 

2 

1 

s 

12 

15 

do.                         on  Bowsprit, 

2 

C( 

s 

13 

15 

43 

do.                   Brace  on  the  Fore  Stay, 

4 

\ 

s 

11 

13 

44 

Fore  Top  Bowline, 

2 

1 

s 

12 

16 

45 

Fore  Bowline,             -            _            - 

2 

1 

s 

13 

15 

46 

Fore  Topmast  Staysail  Downhaul, 

1 

s 

8 

13 

47 

do.        do.         lialyards  in  head  of  Sail. 

1 

s 

12 

16 

48 

do.        do.              do.  on  the  F.   T.  M. 

Trussle  Trees,  Iron  bound. 

1 

s 

13 

16 

49 

do.        do.     Sheets  in  clew  of  sail, 

1 

s 

12 

15 

50 

Fore  Storm  Staysail  Stay  on  the  Bow- 

sprit, B.  S.          - 

(( 

s 

14 

38 

51 

do.      do.            do.        Downhaul, 

1 

s 

8 

12 

52 

Fore  Staysail  Halyards  in  head  of  sail. 

« 

s 

12 

14 

53 

do.        do.         on  Trussle  Trees, 

" 

s 

13 

14 

64 

do.         do.         Sheets  in  clew  of  sails, 

2 

<( 

s 

13 

14 

Fore  Mast  and  Yard. 

55 

Runners  for  Topmast,  B.  S. 

1 

2 

s 

17 

30 

56 

Tackles  for         do. 

! 

2 

D 

16 

57 

do.            do.            -            -             - 

4 

2 

s 

[- 

16-i 

58 

Fore  Truss  Tackles, 

2 

1 

D 

|/ 

13 

59 

do.                   do. 

2 

1 

s 

10 

13 

304 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


60  Fore  Jeer  Runner,  B.  S. 

61  do.     Tackle, 

62  Leaders  for     do,  - 

63  auarter  Blocks  on  Fore  Yard,  B.  S. 

64  Topsail  Sheets  on  Yard  Arm, 

65  Slablineson  Yard,      -  -  . 

66  Clue  Garnets  on  Yard, 

67  do.         on  Clew  of  Sai^, 

68  Buntlines  on  Fore  Yard, 

69  do.     under  Top, 

70  Fore  Buntlines, 

71  Fore  Leechlines  on  Yard, 

72  do.  under  Top, 

73  Fore  Leechlines, 

74  A.fter        do.         on  Fore  Yard, 

75  do.        do.         leading  under  Top, 

76  After  Leechlines,         -  -  _ 

77  Fore  Yard  'I'ackle,  -  -    ' 

78  do.        do.  -  - 

79  do.        do.        Leaders, 

80  Bill  and  Cluarter  Tricing  Lines, 

81  Fore  Brail  on   Yard  Arm, 

82  do.         leading  on  M.  Trussle  trees, 

83  Preventer  Braces  on  Yard  Arms,      -      < 

84  Leading        do.    on  Bowsprit, 

85  Fore  Lifts  on  Cap  span, 

86  do.     do.  on  Yard  Arm, 

87  do.     do.  on  Jigger  Tackle,  - 

88  do.    do.        do.        do. 

89  Clew  Jiggers,"  -  -  - 

90  Bunt  Jiggers,  -  -  -  - 

91  do.    do.       - 

92  Fore  Reef  Tackle  on  yard,  double  scored 

93  do.  do.   on  Leech  of  sails, 

94  Bumpkin  Blocks.  Fore  Tack,  B.  S.  - 

95  Fore  Tacks  on  Clew  of  sail,    B.  S.  - 

96  Fore  sheet  on         do.         do.  B.  S.  - 

97  Swinging  Boom  Topping  Lifts, 

98  do.        do.  do.     Whips,     - 

99  Pendants  for  outer  Siud.  sail  Halyds. 
100  Outer  Stud,  sail  Halyards,  on  Boom. 


lOllInner 


do 


do. 


Yard, 


20  18 
12  18 

8  13 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT. 


305 


102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
110 


HI 

112 
113 
114 
115 
lit) 
117 
118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
12fS 
126 
127 
128 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
187 
138 
139 


Leading    do.  do.        on  duarter, 

Pricing  Lines,  _  -  - 

Lower.  Studding  sail  Downhaul, 
Swinging  Boom  Brails, 

do.       After  Guys, 

do.       Forward  do. 
Leading         do.       on  Spritsail  yd.  • 
Studding  sail  Tacks,  on  Boom  end,  - 
I'ricing  Lines  for  Sid.  sail  Gear, 


Fore  Topmast  and  Yard. 

Top  Block  B.  S.  iron  bound     - 

Top  Tackle,  -  -  -  - 

Leaders,  for  do.      ■     - 
Fore  Top  Burton,  ,    - 

do.     do.     do.  .  -  - 

do.    do.  Runners,  -  -  - 

F.  T.  Mt.  B.  Backstays,  turned  in,    - 

do.     do.  do.         iron  bound, 

Travelling  Bk.  Stays, 

do.  do.  do.  iron  bound,  - 
Gin  Blocks,  Topftail  Ties,  B.  S,.  - 
Topsail  ties  on  yard,  B.  S.     - 

Fore  Topsail  Halliards,  (Fly)B.  S.  - 
do.         do.        do.  B.  S.  - 

Leaders  for        do.  B.  S.  - 

'Fore  Top  sail  Brace  on  yard, 
Fore  Topsail  Brace  on  Collar  of  M.  Stay 
do.        do        under  M.  Trussle  trees 
Reef  Tackle  and  Lifts,  B.  S. 
Leaders  in  Fore  Top  for  Topsail  Lifts, 
Fore  Topsail  Lift  Jiggers, 

do.  do, 

Downhaul  Tackles, 

do.  do. 

duarter  Blocks  on  Topsail  Yard, 
Clewlines  in  Topsail, 
Rolling  Tackles, 

(Jo.         do.  "  -  - 

Fore  Topsail  BuntUne  at  Mast  bead, 

26* 


D 

20 

S 

•20 

Fiddle. 

20 

S 

12 

S 

12 

D 

15 

Tripple. 

15 

D 

15 

Tripple. 

15 

S 

18 

S 

19 

D 

22 

S 

22 

S 

22 

S 

n 

s 

14 

s 

15 

Sister. 

24 

S 

12 

D 

10 

S 

10 

D 

11 

S 

11 

D 

13 

S 

12 

D 

11 

S 

11 

S 

112 

22  36 
20 
•30 
U 

a 

17 
14 
14 
14 
14 
25 
25 
16 
16 
16 
17 
17 
17 
22 
22 
10 
10 
13 
13 
17 
17 
13 
13 
14 


306 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


— 

— 

03 

oS 

s 
s 
o 

2 

i 

1 
c 

9 

.s 

1 

140 

Fore  Topsail  Buntline  on  yard, 

S 

14 

141 

Reef  Tackles, 

2 

4 

S 

10 

18 

142 

do.  on  Leach  of  the  sail. 

2 

2 

s 

10 

18 

143 

Sheets  in  Clew  of  Sail,  B.  S. 

2 

4 

s 

13 

23 

144 

Leech  ropes  on  Topsail  tie, 

2 

" 

s 

8 

10 

145 

Fore  Topsail  Buntline  Whips, 

(( 

D 

8 

n 

146 

do.            do.            do.         *    - 

i( 

s 

8 

12 

147 

Clew  Jiggers,              ... 

<( 

s 

9 

12 

148 

Out  Rigger  in  Fore  Top, 

«' 

D 

11 

12 

149 

do.            do. 

(( 

s 

11 

12 

Fore  Top  Gallant  Mast  and  Yard. 

150 

Span  at  Cap  for  Studding  Sail  Halyards, 

2 

s 

13 

IT 

151 

Jewell  Blocks  on  Yard  Arm, 

2 

s 

11 

17 

152 

Studding  Sail  Tacks  on  Boom, 

2 

s 

8 

11 

153 

Boom  Brace  Pendants, 

2 

s 

10 

11 

154 

Leaders  for  Boom  braces  on  Main  Rig. 

2 

s 

9 

11 

155 

Downhaul  for  Top  Mast  Studding  Sail, 

2 

s 

8 

10 

156 

Boom  J  igger  in  and  out, 

2 

D 

8 

10 

157 

do.                do. 

2 

s 

9 

11 

158 

Leaders  for  do.  in  Bunt  of  Yard, 

2 

s 

9 

11 

159 

Tricing  Boom  Tackle  under  Top, 

2 

D 

9 

11 

160 

do.           do.                do. 

2 

s 

9 

11 

161 

Top  Gallant  Mast  Tack, 

1 

D 

13 

13 

162 

do.                  do. 

1 

S 

13 

13 

163 

Jigger  Tackle  for  Top  Gallant  Rigging, 

2 

D 

7 

9 

164 

do.            do.                   do. 

2 

S 

7 

9 

165 

Top  Gallant  breast  back  Stay,  turned  in. 

2 

D 

11 

11 

166 

do.            do.            Iron  bound, 

2 

D 

11 

11 

167 

do.            Stay  Tackles, 

1 

D 

11 

10 

168 

do.            do. 

1 

S 

11 

10 

169 

Jack  Blocks,                 ... 

1 

S 

14 

22 

170 

Top  Gallant  Halyards, 

1 

D 

13 

13 

171 

do.             do. 

1 

S 

13 

13 

172 

do.         Braces  on  Yard  Arm, 

2 

S 

10 

11 

173  Leading  do.  on  Main  Topmast  Stay, 

2 

s 

7i 

11 

174 

do.  under  Trussle  Trees, 

2 

s 

H 

11 

175 

Top  Gallant  Lifts, 

2 

Sister, 

IH 

16 

176 

do.         do.  leading  in  Top, 

2 

s 

9 

16 

177 

do.        Lift  Jigger, 

2 

D 

8 

10 

YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT 


307 


ta 

OB 

6 

6 

1 

3 

o 
c 

02 

1 
1 

17c 

do.                do. 

2 

(( 

S 

8 

10 

179 

Top  Block,  Iron  bound, 

1 

1 

S 

14 

22 

180 

Top  Gallant  Sheet  on  Yard  Arm,  B.  S. 

2 

2 

s     ■ 

12 

9 

181 

Cluarter  Blocks,          .            .            _ 

2 

1 

D 

10 

14 

182 

Top  Gallant  Buntlines. 

2 

1 

S 

Sh 

10 

183 

Spare  Top  Gall't.  Studding  Sail  Halyards, 

2 

1 

s 

t 

12 

184 

Jewell  Blocks, 

2 

1 

s 

Sh 

12 

185 

Studding  Sail  Tacks, 

2 

1 

s 

8 

12 

186 

Tricing  Lines,            -            .            _ 

2 

s 

7 

9 

Fore  Royal  Mast  and  Yard. 

187 

Fore  Royal  Breast  Back  Stays,  turned  in, 

2 

" 

s 

8 

11 

188 

do.                    do.         Iron  bound, 

2 

u 

s 

8 

11 

189 

Stay  Tackle, 

2 

1 

s 

7 

9 

190 

Leading  Royal  brace  on  Top  Gallant  stay, 

2 

1 

s 

6h 

10 

191 

do.        do.        do.         at  Mast  head, 

2 

1 

s 

6i 

10 

192 

Cluarter  Blocks,          .            _            _ 

2 

1 

D 

"2 

6^ 

9 

193 

Royal  Buntlines, 

1 

" 

s  - 

"2 

6 

9 

194 

Spare  do.  Studding  Sail  Halyards, 

2 

1 

s 

6 

9 

19^ 

Jewell  Blocks, 

2 

s 

f 

9 

190 

Studding  Tacks  on  Boom, 

2 
4 

2 

s 
s 

6 
17 

9 

Main  Mast  and  Yard. 

30 

197 

Runners  for  Main  Mast,  B.  S, 

4 

2 

D 

17 

16 

198 

Tackles  for        do. 

4 

2 

s 

17 

16 

199 

do.            do.    - 

2 

1 

D 

10 

13 

200 

Main  Truss  Tackles, 

2 

1 

S 

10 

13 

201 

do.            do. 

(( 

'. 

(( 

(( 

202 

Jeer  Runners,  B.  S. 

2 

I 

s 

22 

35 

203 

Jeer  Tackles,               ... 

4 

1 

D 

22 

24 

204 

Leaders  fordo,             -            .            . 

2 

1 

S 

22 

24 

205 

Cluarter  Blocks  on  Main  Yard,  B.  S. 

2 

1 

S 

17 

23 

206 

Topsail  Sheets  on  Yard,  B.  S. 

2 

2 

s 

17 

23 

207 

Slab  Lines  on         do. 

2 

" 

s 

10 

13 

208 

Clew  Garnets  on  do. 

2 

4 

s 

15 

17 

20(1 

do.         in  Clew  of  Sail, 

2 

2 

s 

U 

17 

21C 

Buntlines  on  Main  Yard, 

4 

1 

s 

9 

13 

308 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


(B 

<a 

c 

6 
Z 

4 

c5 
a. 

1 

£ 

C 

c 

m 
~9 

5 

o 

211,         do.         under  Top, 

D 

13 

212 

Main  Bantlines, 

2 

1 

Shoe. 

9 
9 

13 

213 

Lepchlines  on  Yard, 

4 

1 

S 

9 

13 

214 

do         under  Top, 

2 

1 

S 

8 

13 

215 

Main  Leechlines,       .             -             - 

2 

1 

Shoe. 

c 

13 

216 

After  do.  on  Main  Yard, 

4 

1 

S 

8 

13 

217 

do.  under  Top,              -         .  - 

2 

1 

D 

8 

13 

218 

After  Leechlines,         .             .             - 

2 

1 

Shoe. 

s 

9 

13 

219 

Main  Yard  Tackle, 

2 

1 

Fiddle. 

33 

17 

220 

do.        do.        - 

2 

1 

S 

18 

17 

221 

do.  Leaders,    -             -             - 

2 

' 

S 

18 

17 

222 

Bill  and  Cluarter  Tricing  Lines, 

4 

1 

S 

8 

9 

223 

Main  Brace  on  Yard, 

2 

1 

S 

22 

20 

224 

Leading  Main  Braces, 

2 

1 

S 

22 

20 

225 

Preventer  Main  Braces  on  Yard, 

2 

»' 

S 

17 

17 

22ti 

Leading  Preventer  Main  Braces  on  Yard, 

2 

•' 

S 

16 

17 

227 

Main  Lifts  on  Cap,  (span) 

2 

1 

D 

17 

23 

228 

do.         on  Y^ard  Arm,      - 

2 

1 

S 

17 

23 

229 

Main  Jigger  Tackle, 

2 

1 

D 

IQ 

11 

230 

do.         dc. 

2 

1 

S 

10 

11 

231 

Main  Clew  Tackle, 

4 

" 

S 

8 

11 

232 

do.    Bunt        do. 

1 

(( 

D 

8 

11 

233 

do.           do. 

1 

(( 

S 

8 

11 

234 

do.    Reef  Tackle  on  Yard,  D  Scored, 

2 

1 

S 

12 

18 

235 

do.            do.          ii.  leech  of  sail. 

2 

2 

s 

11 

18 

236 

Main  Tack  on  Gangway,  B.  S. 

2 

•' 

s 

16^23 

237 

do.         in  Clew  of  sail,  B.  S. 

2 

2 

s 

16|23 

238 

Main  Sheets  in         do.         B  S. 

2 

2 

s 

16  23 

239 

Runners  for  Main  Bowline  Bridle, 

2 

" 

s 

1113 

240 

Tackles  for                 do. 

4 

a 

s 

1113 

241 

Tricing  Lines  for  Studding  sail  Gear, 

2 

" 

s 

8111 

242 

Main  tJtaysdil  Stay  on  Foremast,     - 

1 

1 

s 

14|28 

243 

Storm  Staysail  Halyards  in  Col.  of  Stay, 

1 

1 

s 

14 

14 

244 

do. '              do.        in  heavy  Sail, 

1 

1 

s 

12 

14 

245 

do.                do.        Downhaul, 

1 

1 

s 

1213 

246 

do.           Sheets, 

2 

'• 

D 

1613 

247 

Runner  for  Jumper  on  Main  Stay,     - 

1 

1 

s 

916 

24d 

Tackle  for            do.            do. 

1 

" 

D 

911 

249 

do.                  do.            do. 

1 

" 

s 

911 

250 

Fore  Stay  Tackle,      - 

1 

1 

D 

17,17 

251 

do.         do.            -            -            - 

1 

1 

s 

1717 

252 

Leader  for  do.              .             -             . 

1 

s 

1717 

253 

Mam  Stay  Tackle 

1 

1 

D 

n 

17 

YOUNG    sailor's    ASSISTANT. 


309 


254  Main  Stay  Tackie, 

255  Leader  for      do. 


256 
257 

258 
259 
260 
261 
262 
263 
264 
265 
266 
267 
268 
269 
270 
271 
27-2 
273 
274 
275 
276 
277 
278 
279 
280 
281 
282 
283 
284 
285 
286 
287 
28S 
289 
290 
291 


Main  Topmast  and  Yard. 

Top  Block,  Iron  bound,' B.  S. 
Top  Tackle, 

Leaders  for  do.  -  -  - 

Main  Top  Burton, 

do.        do.        - 
do.         Runners, 
Main  T.  M.  Breast  Back  Stay  turned  in, 
do.  do.  Iron  bound, 

do.         Travelling  turned  in, 
do.  do.        Iron  bound, 

Main  Top  Mast  Stay,  B.  S. 

do.  Spring  Stay,  B  S.    - 

Gin  Block  for  Topsail  Tye,  B.  S.      - 
Topsail  Tye  on  Yard,  B.  S. 
Topsail  Halyards,  (Fly)  B.  S. 
do.  do.  B.  S. 

Leader  for  Topsail  Halyards,  B.  S. 
Main  Topsail  Bract;  on  Yard, 
do.  leading  on  Collar  of  Mizen  Stay, 
do.  Span  on  Mizen  Mast, 
do.  Lifts  and  Reef  Tackles,  B.  S. 
do.  Lift  Leaders, 
do.  Lift  Jiggers, 
do.   Downhavil  Tackle, 
Main  Top  sail  Downhaul  Tackle, 
Gluarter  Block  on  Yard, 
Clewline  in  Sail,         _  .  - 

Rolling  Tackle, 

do.         do.  -  -  - 

Main  Topsail  Buntlines,  Mast  head, 

do.  d'>.  leading  on  Yard, 

Reef  Tackle  Whips  in  Pendants, 

do.  in  leech  of  sail, 
Top?tiil  sheets  in  Clew  of  sail,  B.  S, 
Leech  Ropes  on  Topsail  Tye, 
Main  Topsail  Bunt  Whips, 


6 

3 

t 

EU 

O 

Til 

Z 

1 

1 

1 

(1 

2 

1 

4 

2 

] 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

<( 

4 

1 

4 

1 

2 

" 

2 

u 

1 

a 

1 

«' 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

(( 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

(( 

2 

1 

2 

1 

1 

u 

2 

1 

2 

4 

1 

" 

1 

(( 

2 

2 

2 

t( 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

4 

2 

" 

1 

1 

s 

D 

S 
Fiddle. 

S 

S 

D 
Tripple. 

D 
Tripple. 

S 

S 

S 

S 

D 

S 

S 

s 
s 
s 

Sister. 
S 
D 
S 
D 
D 
S 
D 
S 
S 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

D 


36 
26 
20 
11 
11 
18 
14 
14 
14 
14 
36 
39 
27 
27 
16 
16 
16 
18 
18 
18 
23 
23 
10 
10 
13 
17 
17 
13 
13 
14 
14 
13 
13 
23 
lO 
12 


310 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,   OR 


292  do.  do. 

293  M  ain  Top  Bowline  in  Fore  Top 

294  Clew  Jiggers, 

295  Outrigger  in  Main  Top, 
206  do.  do. 

297  Staysail  Halyards,  at  Mast  head,  iron  b'd 

298  do.  in  head  of  Sail, 

299  Staysail  Downhaul, 

300  do.     Brails,  -  -  - 

301  do.     Sheets  in  pendants, 

302  Middle  Staysail  Tricing  Lines, 

303  do.  Halyards,  iron  bound, 

304  do.  Downhaul, 

305  Spar  for  Studding  Sail  Halyards,      - 

306  Jewell  Blocks, 

307  Studding  Sail  Tacks  on  Boom, 

308  do.  Downhaul, 

309  Boom  Jigger  in  and  out, 

310  do.  do. 

311  Leaders  for  do. 

312  Tricing  Boom  Jigger, 

313  do.  do. 


Main  Top  Gallant  Mast  and  Yard. 

314  Top  Block,  {iron  bound) 

315  Mast  Tackle, 

316  do.     do.       - 

317  Jigger  for  Top  Gallant  rigging, 

318  do.  do.        do.        do. 

319  Breast  Backstays,  turned  in, 

320  do.  do.         iron  bound, 

321  do.  do.         Stay  tackle, 

322  do.  do.  do. 

32H  Jack  Block  for  Top  Gallant  yard,     - 

324  Top  Gallant  Halyards, 

325  do.  do.     - 

326  do.        brace  on  yard, 

327  Leading  do.  on  Collar  of  Miz.  T.  Gt. 

Slay,     -  -  - 

328  do.        do.      at  Mast  Heod, 


S 
S 
S 
D 
S 
S 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

D 

s 
s 

D 


22 
13 
13 
9 
9 
11 
11 
12 
12 
22 
13 
13 
12 

12 
13 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT. 


311 


6•^b 
330 
331 
332 
333 
334 
335 
336 

337 
338 
339 
340 
341 
342 
343 
344 
345 
346 
347 


348 
34J^ 
350 
351 
352 
353 
354 
355 
356 
357 
358 
359 
360 


361 


lop  Gallant  JLitis,         B.  S. 
Leaders  for    do.          -  -  _ 

Lift  Jigger,     -  -  -  - 

do.    do.  -■  .  - 

Sheets  on  Yard  arm,  B   S.     - 

Ctuarter  Blocks  on  Top  Gallant  Yard, 

Top  Gallant  Buntlines, 

Leading  Main  Top  Gallant  Stay  &  Bow- 
lines through  chock,  1  Chock, 

At  Fore  Top  Mast  Crosstrees, 

Lower  Top  Gal't  Staysail  Tricing  Lines, 
do.  do.  Halyards  at  Mast  head; 
do.         do.  Downhaul, 

Upper  Top  Gallant  Staysail  Tricing  lines 
do.  do.  Halyards  at  Mast  head, 
do.         do.    Downhaul, 

Spare  Top  Gal't  Studding  Sail  Halyards 

Jewel  Blocks  on  Yard  Arm, 

Studding  Sail  Tacks  on  Boom, 
do.         Tricing  Lines, 


Main  Royal  Mast  and  Yard. 

Main  Royal  Backstay,  turned  in, 
do.  do.         Iron  bound, 

do.         Stay, 

do.  Brace  or  Mizen  T.  Gal't  Stay 
do.         do.  at  Mast  head, 
Gluarter  Block  on  Yard, 
R-oyal  Buntlines,         _  .  - 

do.   Bowlines,         -  -  - 

do.  tStaysail  Tricing  Line, 
do.         do,      Downhaul, 
Spare  Royal  Studding  Sail  Halyards, 
do.  dor        Jewel  Blocks, 

do.  do.         Tacks  on  Boom, 


Mizen  Mast. 
Mizen  Pendant  Tackles, 


312 


KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 


362  Mizen  Pendant  Tackles, 

363  Cross  Jack  Truss  Tackle,      - 

364  do.  do. 

365  Cluarter  Block  on  Cross  Jack  Yard,  B.  S 

366  Topsail  Sheets  on  Yard  Arm,  B.  S. 
361  Cross  Jack  Brace  on  yard, 

368  do.  do.  Leaders, 

369  Spare  Cross  Jack  Lifts, 

370  do.        do.         on  Yard, 

371  Lift  Jiggers,  .  .  . 

372  do.  -  -  -  - 

373  Mizen  Staysail  Stay  under  Miz.  Top,  B.S 

374  do.  Stay  Tackle, 

375  do.  do. 

376  Tricing  Tackle  for  Miz.  Stay  at  Miz.  mst 

377  do.  do. 

378  Staysail  Halyards  on  Collar  of  Miz.  stay, 

379  do.         in  head  of  sail, 

380  Mizen  Staysail  Downhaul, 

381  do         Brails, 

38'2  Storm  Staysail  Hal}  ai-ds  on  Collar  of  stay, 

383  do.  do.         in  head  of  sail, 

384  do.  Downhaul, 


385 

336 

38 

388 

389 

390 

391 

392 


393 
94 


Spanker  Boom. 

Spanker  Topping  Lift  under  Mizen  Trus 

sle  Trees,  B.  S. 

do.         Boom  Runner, 

do.        Topping  Lift  Tackle, 

do.  do.  do. 

do.        Guy  do. 

do.  do.  do. 

Crow  foot  for  Spanker  Topping  Lifts, 
Spanker  Sheet,        .     - 


Blocks  on  G^iff. 

Mizen  Vangs, 

do.  Leading  on  Cluarter, 


ol2 

U12 


YOUNG   SAILOR'S    ASSISTANT. 


313 


— 

M 

75 

6 

3 
C 

6 

6 

1 

1 

1 

■5 

2 

T 

7 

n 

395 

Spanker  Peak  brails, 

S 

U 

396 

do.       Middle    do. 

2 

1 

S 

10 

11 

397 

do.       Throat    do. 

2 

2 

Tripple. 

9 

1;^ 

398 

do.       Cluarter  do.  on  Gaff, 

2 

1 

8 

11 

399 

Spanker  Foot  Brails  on  Gaff, 

2 

1 

S 

8 

11 

400 

Peak  Halyards  on  Gaff, 

2 

I 

s 

13 

14 

401 

do,         do.  on  Cap,  Iron  bound, 

1 

(( 

D 

14 

14 

402 

Throat  Halyards  on  Mast, 

1 

.' 

D 

14 

14 

403 

do.  on  Gaff, 

1 

1 

S 

14 

14 

404 

Outhauler  in  Clew  of  Sail,      - 

1 

1 

s 

13 

17 

Mizen  Top  Mast  and  Yard. 

405 

Top  Block,  Iron  bound,  B.  S. 

2 

1 

s 

17 

23 

406 

do.  Tackle, 

2 

(( 

D 

18 

17 

407 

[lolling  do.      -            -            -            - 

2 

" 

s 

10 

408 

do.             -            -            -             - 

2 

« 

D 

10 

409 

Topsail  Buntlines  at  Mast  head. 

2 

1 

Fiddle. 

18 

11 

410 

do.         on  Yard, 

2 

1 

S 

10 

11 

411 

Mizen  Top  Runners, 

2 

<i. 

S 

10 

1.5 

412 

Breast  Backstays,  turned  in. 

2 

1 

D 

V6 

13 

413 

do.        do.         Iron  bound, 

1 

D 

Vi 

1:3 

414 

Mizen  Topmast  Stay,  B.  S.  ^ 

u 

S 

10 

25 

415 

do        Spring  do.  B.  S. 

(( 

S 

\) 

25 

416 

Gin  Blocks  Topsail  Tye,  B.  S. 

<« 

s 

13 

25 

417 

Topsail  Tye  on  Yard,  B.  S. 

1 

s 

15 

25 

418 

do.  Halyards  Fly, 

1 

D 

16 

U 

419 

do.                [• 

1 

s 

16 

14 

420 

do.  Leader, 

fj 

s 

16 

U 

421 

Mizen  Top  Sail  Brace  on  Yard, 

2 

il 

s 

12 

13 

422 

Leadins:                do. 

2 

1 

s 

12 

13 

423 

Topsail  Lifts, 

2 

1 

s 

22 

17 

424 

do.     do.                 ... 

2 

" 

s 

9 

17 

425 

do.  Jigger, 

2 

(( 

D 

8 

3 

426 

do.        do.            -            -            - 

2 

'( 

s 

8 

8 

427 

Down  haul  Tackles, 

1 

(( 

D 

9 

11 

428 

do.             do.        - 

1 

« 

S 

9 

11 

429 

(Quarter  Blocks  on  Yard, 

2 

1 

D 

11 

14 

430 

Olewline  in  Sail,         -             -            - 

2 

4 

S 

9 

14 

431 

Rolling  Tackle, 

1 

u 

D 

10 

12 

432 

do.        do.            -            -            - 

1 

(( 

S 

10 

12 

27 


314 


KEDGE  ANCHOR,    OR 


m 

m 

6 

12; 
2 

'Ji 

b 

xi 

.s 

e 
10 

1 

s 

t 

433 

T  opsail  Buntlines  at  Mast  head,  ^    - 

1 

-s 

11 

434 

do        do.         on  Yard, 

2 

(( 

s 

8 

11 

435 

Reef  Tackles,  Whips  on  Pendants, 

2 

2 

s 

n 

11 

436 

do,                 do.  in  leech  of  Sail, 

2 

2 

s 

7i 

11 

437 

Topsail  Sheets  in  Clew  of  Sail, 

2 

3 

s 

11 

20 

438 

Leech  Ropes  on  Topsail  Tyes, 

2 

(( 

s 

7 

9 

439 

Mizen  Topsail  Bunt  Whips, 

1 

(( 

D 

8 

10 

440 

do.                 do. 

1 

<< 

s 

8 

10 

441 

do.  Bowlines, 

2 

1 

s 

10 

11 

442 

do.  Clew  Jiggers, 

4 

(( 

s 

8 

10 

443 

Out  Rigger  in  Mizen  Top, 

1 

a 

D 

10 

11 

444 

do.                 do. 

1 

s 

10 

11 

Leading   Various  Rigging  on  Mizen 

Mast  and  Quarter  Deck. 

445 

Leading  Mizen  Topsail  Clewlines, 

2 

t< 

s 

11 

12 

446 

do.      Buntlines, 

2 

u 

s 

11 

11 

447 

do.      Reef  Tackles. 

2 

t« 

s 

11 

16 

448 

Top  Gallant  Sheets, 

2 

i( 

s 

11 

17 

449 

Royal  Halyards, 

2 

u 

s 

11 

a 

450 

Top  Gallant  do. 

1 

(( 

s 

11 

10 

451 

Topmast  Staysail  do. 

1 

(( 

s 

11 

11 

452 

Peak  and  Middle  brails  of  Spanker, 

2 

(C 

D 

9 

11 

453 

Throat                    do.                 do. 

2 

« 

s 

9 

12 

454 

Foot  and  Ctuarter  do.                do. 

2 

" 

D 

9 

12 

455 

Mizen  Topsail  Sheets, 

2 

(( 

S 

11 

20 

456 

duarter  Boats  Tackles, 

4 

u 

D 

13 

14 

457 

do.        do.        do. 

4 

<( 

S 

13 

14 

458 

Stern            dd.         do. 

2 

<( 

D 

14 

15 

459 

do.        do.        do. 

2 

« 

S 

14 

15 

460 

Leaders  for  duarter  Boats  Tackles, 

4 

« 

S 

9 

14 

461 

Leading  Blocks  on  Mizen  Fife  Rail,  D. 

scored,    - 

10 

a 

S 

9 

16 

Miscellaneous  Blocks. 

462 

Top  Girtlines, 

4 

(( 

S 

17 

32 

463 

Mast  head  Girtlines  F.  M.  «&  Miz.  mast, 

12 

(( 

S 

13 

13 

YOUNG   SAILOR'S   ASSISTANT. 


315 


464  LufF  Tackle  tor  setting  up  Lower  rigging, 

465  do.  do.  do. 

466  Tricing  Lines  for  Luffs  on  lower  Rigging 

and  Stays,  .  -  . 

467  Stopper  Tackles  on  Fighting  Luffs, 

468  Fish  Tackle  on  Davit  head  D.  scored,  B.S. 

469  do.         on  Fish  hook  Fall, 

470  do.         leading  on  Davit  head,  B.  S. 

471  do.         in  Pendants  on  Gangway, 

472  Tripping  line  for  Fish  Hook, 

473  Davit  Guy  Tackle  forward, 

474  do.  do.        - 

475  do.  do.        aft, 

476  do.  do.        - 

477  Cat  Tackle  at  Davit  head, 

478  do.  Blocks,  B.  S.  Iron  bound. 

479  Leader  for  do.  B.  S. 

480  Back  Rope  for  do.      - 

481  Main  Yard  Whips, 

482  do.     do.     do.  for  Stay, 

483  do.     do-     do.  for  Swabs, 

484  Hammock  and  Clothes  Lines, 

485  Purchase  Blocks,  B.  S. 

486  do.         do.      B.  S. 

487  Leader  on  Viol  Block,  B.  S. 
486  Deck  or  Winding  Tackle,     - 

489  do.  do.        - 

490  Relieving  Tackle  for  Tiller, 

491  do.  do. 

492  Blocks  for  Awnings, 

493  Whips  for  Crowfoot, 
494Tackles  for  Ridge  Ropes,      - 

495  Windsail  Halyards, 

496  Jigeer  Tackles, 

497  ^^do.  .... 
49b  do.  ...  - 
499         do.           -            -            -  - 


Snatch  Blocks. 


1  Snatch  Biocks, 


D 

S 

S 
D 
D 
D 

S 

s 
s 

D 

s 

D 

S 

D 
Treble. 

S 

S 

S 

S 

S 

S 
Treble. 

D 

S 

D 

S 

D 

S 

S 

S 

s 
s 

D 

s 

D 

S 


316 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


01 

ai 

a> 

Si 

1 

t 

S 

j3 

S 

a 

a. 

— 

C 

02 

i 

^; 

.2 

is 

. 

"6 

- 

m 

2 

Snatch  Block,                  .... 

U 

3 

do.                             -            -            .            _ 

7 

16 

15 

4 

do.                            .... 

3 

18 

18 

5 

do.                               -             -             .             . 

2 

20 

20 

6 

do.                            .... 

22 

22 

7 

do.                            .... 

24 

23 

8 

do.                            .            -            .            . 

26 

24 

9 

do.                             .            -            -            . 

28 

26 

10 

do.                            .... 

30 

28 

11 

do.                            .            -            -            . 

32 

30 

la 

do.                B,  S 

34 

32 

n 

do-                B.  S.    - 

36 

34 

14 

do.                B.  S.    -■          - 

40 

38 

15 

do.                           .... 

2 

11 

10 

16 

do.                            -            -            -            - 

2 

10 

9 

17 

do. 

2 

9 

8 

Dead  Eyes. 

1 

Cap  Bobstay,      -            -            .            -            - 

2 

2 

12 

2 

Outer  Bowsprit  Shrouds, 

4 

1 

10 

3 

Inner            do.                .            .            .            - 

4 

1 

10 

4 

Fore  Shrouds,                 .            -            -            - 

22 

2 

17 

5 

do.                             .... 

20 

2 

17 

6 

Beniick  Shrouds,             -            _            -            - 

2 

(( 

12 

7 

do.                         .... 

12 

2 

11 

8 

Fore  Topmast  Shrouds, 

12 

2 

11 

9 

do.            do.                        ... 

4 

13 

10 

do:            do.            B.  Stay, 

4 

13 

11 

do.            do.                         .            .            - 

1 

10 

12 

do.            Stay,        .... 

1 

10 

13 

do.            do.             .            -            -            - 

1 

10 

14 

do.            Spring  Stay,        ... 

1 

10 

15 

do.                        do.              ... 

2 

8 

16 

F.  T.  Gallant  Back  Stay, 

2 

8 

17 

do.            do.                      ... 

2 

8 

18 

Fore  Royal         do.                     ... 

2 

6 

19 

do.            do.                      ... 

2 

6 

20 

Main  Shrouds,                .... 

22 

2 

17 

21 

do.                        .... 

24 

2 

17 

YOUNG   SAILOR'S   ASSISTANT. 


317 


22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 


Bentick  Shrouds, 

do. 
Main  Topmast  Shrouds, 


do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 


do. 
Backstay, 

do. 

do. 

Stay, 
do. 


Main  T.  Gt.  Backstay, 
do.  do. 

do.  Royal, 

do.  do. 

Mizen  Shroud?, 

do. 
Mizen  Topmast, 

do. 
Mizen  Backstays, 
do.        do. 

do.        Topgallant  Backstay, 
do.  do. 

Mizen  Royal  Stay, 
do.        do. 


Hearts. 


Outer  Bobstay, 

Inner        do. 

Upper  F.  Spring  Stay, 

Lower  do. 

Upper  Fore  Stay, 

Lower         do. 

Upper  Main  Stay, 

Lower        do. 

Upper  Main  Spring  Stay, 

Lower  do. 

Preventer  Gammoning, 


12 

12 

1 

11 

13 

13 

10 

10 

10 

8 

8 

6 

6 

13 

13 

9 

9 

11 

U 

7 

7 

5 

5 


14 
15 
20 
24 
24 
28 
28 
28 
24 
23 

In 


2r 


318 


KEDGE  ANCHOR,  OR 


69.  Miscellaneous  Articles. 


Leading  Trucks  lor  various  Rigging  on  L  Shrouds 

do.  do.  do. 

Serving  Mallets,  assorted  from  6  to  10  inches, 


Settling  Fids,  do. 

Splicing  Fids,  do. 

Commanders, 

Heavers, 

Serving  Boards, 

Hand  Spikes, 

Stand  for  Coils  of  spun  Yarn, 

Reels  for  Stretching, 


do. 
do. 


\o.  in  use. 

Folds. 

30 

D 

6 

S 

48 

8 

24 

18 

24 

36 

12 

3 

2 

70. 

Anchors. 

Starboard  Bower  Anchor 

8627 

( 

lo.                do. 

91*75 

Larboard  Bovjrer, 

.    •=    - 

8427 

do. 

Sheet, 

- 

8700 

Stream  Anchor, 

-  ' 

-    '    2272 

No.  1- 

-Kedge  Anchor, 

. 

1117 

No.2. 

do. 

- 

800 

No.  3. 

do. 

-   - 

675 

No.  4. 

do. 

_ 

500 

No.  5. 

do. 

_ 

410 

Boats 

do. 

_ 

100 

do. 

do. 

., 

125 

do. 

do. 

- 

175 

71.  Distances  from  Spar  Deck  of  JJ,  S.  Ship  North 
Carolina. 


From  Night  Heads  to  Bowsprit  Cap,  -  53  feet, 

do.        do.         to  Jib  Boom,         -  -  91     " 

do.        do.         to  Flying  Jib  Boom,  -  109     " 

do.        do.        to  Jib  of  Jib  Truck,  -  128    " 


YOUNG   sailor's    ASSISTANT. 

From  Spar  Deck  to  Fore  Cap, 

,iy 

do. 

toF. 

T.  M;Cap,      - 

122  i 

do. 

toF. 

T.  Gt.  Cap,      - 

145* 

do. 

toF. 

Cap, 

170i 

do. 

toF. 

Skysail  Truck, 

1871 

do. 

to  Main  Cap, 

90 

do. 

do. 

T.  M.Cap, 

141 

do. 

do. 

T.  Gt.  Cap, 

166 

do. 

do. 

Royal  Cap, 

193i 

do. 

do. 

Skysail  Truck, 

21U 

do. 

do. 

Mizen  Cap, 

75i 

do. 

do. 

do.    T.M.  Cap, 

116 

do. 

do. 

do.     T.  Gt.  Cap, 

136 

do. 

do. 

do.    Royal  Cap, 

158 

-'         do. 

do. 

do.    Skysail  Truck, 

173 

,ngth  on  Spar  Deck, 

- 

209 

319 


320 


KEDGE    ANCHOR,  OR 


CO 

1—1 


8 

.1 


7? 

TS 

m 

1 

< 

J 

o 

'S 

^ 

^ 

f^  o  t^ »»  «o 


00  •>©  rj*  o  a> 


[X  (N  O' 


o  cj  M  CO  (N 


-Jl"'—  t^-TTMCDS     i     T^^-^O 


■<T'-!ao<MaocN(NO 


■^OOCOO-^rriAocOMC^C^C^—iCO  OC50COO 


s 

^= 

«o  T^t^  ^ 

lo  <x>  ec  rt  — 

CO  .-I  eo  CM 

3 

r 

t- 

i> 

i 

1— ZD 

-  -^  oo 

aio<a3i^O'*T3<coi-- 

O 

CO 

g 

SS 

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o- 

TjiXOTfC-OOCD'^ 

^  Tji  r^  O 

- 

- 

00 

i-< 

::-*w-:il>'<^i^: 


==g^; 


i 

1 

x>r-=  <T.-.  ir5t-i>ofcc^i>c«c<^vr5CDinoin(M 

.= 

l^'>^-2-2-::^^-^^'*"'--^^g§S;g5 

CD  ~     as  QC  (75  QO 


s     .   ?o  r?  00  ro  Oi  (N  X  vn  Oi  d  —  r- Tti  oi  <o  o  t- "^  00  o 


s£ 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT. 


321 


ODZ  -::::::  w   :;  ::    aj -^ -^  t^  vo  u^ -"^  (M  (M -^  ^  •-<'-'•-<  -   -  '^ 

K^  .  .  .  ^  


2   ::   00  ■<*  -   ^00  ::   o  c^  Ci :: 


i-iMi-Hs  <N  t-*  -  00  o  -  (yj  kn - 


■^c<»oooaiX«3«niO'^a5GOTrio-^^oa>i^'X>'0-<5<'*-^cO(>j, 


tDJ>ioco-^oo--    ot^  —  orofO"^  —  T^kn-^co::   l^c?u   o-^oj 


ia>=  = 


-    g  «o  o  »-<  <vo  ::  oi  ;o  co  o  c»  o  (?j  ph  -  osoo: 
<1      "" 


in -*  ex  50  «C  Tjl  (N  (M  F-<  I-H  ^  ,-1  ,-1  ,-4  -      - 


c^QO-^aoF-ic^cotx><'-i-   t^(N-   ;:  a5Tj<<M(Ni^coo-^»o<^:: 


OCBI>0»OOr}<eO-^. 


t^eos  (MtOQO::  o  "Xi  to  oo  oo  00  to  Tf<  oo  cj  M  ?o  ?o  o -^  ■<*  oo  lo 


ift::   s   :: 

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CO 

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02  PQ 


322 


KBDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 


^■4 

.  Scale 

of  Weights  for 

Cables  and  Hawsers. 

Size. 

fms 

wght. 

Size. 

1  fms, 

wgbt. 

Isize. 

1  fms  |wghf.|Size.  1  fms.jwhgt.  I 

5 

120 

700 

5 

lOU 

559 

14i 

iJiO 

588U 

14^ 

100 

4900 

5^ 

(( 

840 

51 

t« 

700 

15 

6300 

15 

u 

5250 

6 

(( 

lOOS 

6 

<« 

840 

151 

6720 

151 

(( 

5600 

S' 

<< 

1170 

61 

cc 

1080 

16 

7168 

16 

l( 

5974 

7 

« 

1372 

7 

(( 

1144 

161 

7616 

161 

(( 

6347 

■7^ 

(( 

1588 

7§ 

<( 

1324 

17 

8092 

17 

" 

6744 

8 

(( 

n9-2 

8 

C( 

1494 

171 

8568 

n^ 

(( 

7140 

8^ 

i( 

2016 

8a 

(( 

1680 

18 

9072 

18 

(( 

7560 

9 

(( 

2268 

9* 

(( 

1890 

18i 

9576 

181 

« 

7980 

,^^ 

" 

2520 

91 

(( 

2100 

19 

10108 

19 

C( 

8424 

10 

<c 

2S00 

10 

(( 

2334 

19^ 

10640 

19^ 

(( 

8867 

lOi^ 

« 

3080 

lOi 

(( 

2567 

20 

11200 

20 

« 

9344 

11 

(( 

3418 

11 

t< 

2847 

20i 

11760 

201 

<( 

9800 

lU 

it 

3G96 

IH 

(( 

3080 

21 

12348 

21 

« 

10290 

12 

(< 

4032 

12 

(( 

3360 

211 

12936 

•^u 

(( 

16780 

I2i 

(( 

4365 

m 

" 

3640 

22 

«< 

13552 

22 

« 

11277 

13 

u 

4732 

13 

(( 

3944 

221 

I4I68 

221 

(C 

11807 

ISJ 

(( 

5096 

i:^ 

« 

4247 

23 

14812 

23 

(( 

12344 

14 

(( 

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14 

«t 

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23  i 
24 

(( 

15456 

16128 

231 
24 

(( 
(1 

12880 
13440 

75. 


RECEIPTS. 

For  Blacking  ShipK^i  Standing  Rigging. 


To  every  Gallon  of  Tar   add  two  quarts  of  Fish 
Oil,  and  1  quart  Black  Varnish. 


7^.    For  Blacking  Guns. 

Six  pounds  Bees  Wax,  mixed  with  1  Gallon  of 
Spirits  of  Turpentine,  one  paper  of  Lampblack  mix- 
ed well  together  for  20 — 24  pounders. 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  323 

N.B.  The  Bees  wax  to  be  cut  fine  and  dissolved 
in  the  Turpentine  before  mixed  with  the  Lampblack. 


77.     For  Blacking  Hammock  Cloths^  Yards, 
and  Bends. 

First  scrub  the  cloth  well  with  Salt  Water,  and 
while  wet,  put  on  the  first  coat  of  priming,  which 
should  be  well  ground,  paint  with  1^  lbs  Bees  wax 
added  to  each  gallon  of  paint,  after  the  firs!  coat  is 
well  dry,  put  on  second  mixed  as  follows,  viz  : 

1  lb  Lampblack  mixed  for  paint, 
1  do.     Red  Lead, 
IGall.  Paint  Oil, 
J-  lb.       Litharge, 
I  oz.      Indigo. 

Boiled  for  half  an  hour,  and  stirred  at  intervals.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  the  composition  boils  that 
length  of  time.  After  it  has  cooled  a  little  add  one  pint 
of  Spirits  of  Turpentine,  apply  when  warm,  and  it 
will  dry  in  a  short  time  with  a  beautiful  gloss,  and 
be  perfectly  limber.  This  last  mixture  has  been 
found  very  suitable  for  yards  and  also  the  bends,  but 
it'must  never  be  used  too  warm,  particularly  on  Can- 
vass in  which  case  it  will  lose  its  gloss,  the  priming  or 


324  KEDGE    ANCHOR,    OR 

first  coat  is  not  put  on  cloths  that  had  been  black  be- 
fore. 


78.  Receipt  for  Making  Liquid  Blacking. 

4  oz.  Ivory  black, 

5  or  6  Table  spoons  full  of  Molasses, 
11  oz.  Oil  of  Vitriol, 

1^  do.  Sweet  oil, 

6  Gills  of  Vinegar, 

After  mixing  the  ingredients,  together  well  stirring 
them  frequently,  the  Blacking  will  be  fit  for  use. 


79.  For  Blacking  Guns. 

6  oz.  of  Lampblack, 
3  pints  of  Spirits  Turpen  tine, 
3  oz.  of  Litharge, 
To  be  put  in,  after  the   Lampblack   and  Turpentine 
are  well  mixed,  add  1  oz.  of  Umber  to  give  it  a  gloss, 
and  one  Gallon  brisfht  Varnish. 


80.   Composition  for  Blacking  Guns. 

6  lbs  Bees  wax  cut  up  fine,  then  add  7  quarts 
Spirits  Turpentine,  let  it  stand   until  it  is  well  dis- 


YOUNG  sailor's  ASSISTANT.  325 

solved,  then  add  1  pound  Lamp  black,  and  mix  it  well 
together. 


81.  Recipe  for  making  Black  Varnish, 

2  lbs  Gum  Shallach, 
2    "  of  Umber, 
1  Gallon  Linseed  Oil, 
f  lb  of  Lampblack, 
Boiled  together  for  four  hours  over  a  slow  fire. 


82*  Compositio7i  for  Blacking  Hammock  Cloths j 
No  1. 

Bees  wax,       -        -        -        -        20  lbs. 

Rosin,  -        -        -       .-        4  do. 

Sprits  Turpentine,  -         -         2  Galls. 

Paint  Oil        -         .        -         .         1   do. 

Lampblack,     -        -        -        -         6  lbs. 
Boil  them  well  together  and  keep  it  warm  while  put- 
ing  on.     N.  B.  To  be  primed  first  with  lead  colored 
paint. 


83.   Composition  for  Hammock  Cloths^  No  2. 

Yellow  Ochre,        -         -        -        48  lbs 
Black  Paint,  ...  8     « 

28 


326  HEDGE    ANCHOB,    OR 

Soap,  -        .        _        .  ^  lb. 

Fresh  Water,  -        -        -        -  3  pints. 


84.  Another  Receipt  for  Hammock  Cloths,  No.  3. 

Black  Paint,         .        -         .         -  ^    lb. 

Yellow  Ochre,      -        -        -         -  3    lbs 

Soap,  ilb 

Fresh  Water,         -        -        -        -  f  gill. 


85.  Composition  for  Hammock  Cloths,  No.  4. 

Black  paint  well  ground,  - 

80  pounds. 

Linseed  Oil, 

10  galls. 

Bees  wax,         -         _         - 

10  pounds 

Litharge,           .         -         _ 

5     do. 

Spirits  Turpentine,    - 

1  gall. 

For  blacking  bends  add  2  gallons 

of  Tar. 

86.  Composition  for  Making  Black  Varnish, 


Spirits  of  Turpentine. 

1  Gall. 

Rosin, 

1  lb.  4  oz. 

Lampblack. 

1  do.  4  do: 

Linseed  Oil,     - 

1  quart. 

YOUNG  sailor's   ASSISTANT.  327 

To  be  boiled  on  a  slow  fire  for   half  an  hour,  then 
used,  or  laid  on,  when  cold. 


87.  Solder  for  Tin. 

Nothing  here  is  necessary,  but  good  tough  borax, 
and  brass  well  mixed  together  with  water  to  the  con> 
sistence  of  paste. 


88.  Solder  for  Lead. 

Take  two  parts  of  water  Lead  and  one  part  of  tin, 
its  goodness  is  tried  by  melting  it,  and  pouring  the 
size  of  a  crown  piece  on  a  table,  then  if  it  be  good, 
there  will  arise  small  bright  stars  or  beads  on  it — ap- 
ply rosin  when  you  use  it. 


S9.   To  make  the  best  Drying  Oil. 

Mix  1  pound  of  Litharge  of  gold  to  every  6  gal- 
Ions  of  Oil,  boil  it  over  a  slow  fire,  but  not  too  much 
lest  it  prove  too  thick,  and  be  unserviceable. 


328  KEDGE    ANCHOR. 

90.  For  Black  Stai7i. 


Copperas,    -  -  -  4oz. 

Iron  rust,  or  a  few  pieces  of  old  iron  hoop, 
Vinegar,      -  -  -  1  gallon, 

Lampblack,  -  -  ^  lb. 

A  small  quantity  of  Oak  shavings. 


ERRATA. 

Page.  5, 

15th  line 

for  Cavrick,  read  Carrick. 

6, 

26 

((    i( 

Pauch,       " 

Panch. 

21, 

18 

11       u 

clean,        " 

clear. 

49, 

U 

((     (( 

expand     " 

expend. 

58, 

12 

((     (( 

boy. 

buoy. 

61, 

20 

((     (( 

those         « 

these. 

-       83, 

23 

((     (( 

cleats,        " 

blocks. 

93, 

11 

n     n 

ports,       " 

parts. 

101, 

5 

ii     a 

booms,      " 

bows. 

(( 

19 

«     u 

and, 

end. 

102, 

3 

(1     (( 

Ihrimble,   " 

treble 

1^  No  doubt  there 

are  other  errors,  which  the  author  hopes  the 

vner  will  correct  with  the 

pen. 

THE    END. 


